Maximizing freespool on an Ambassadeur

[oc1]

John's right.  Playing with free spin on a rainy night is fun, but the proof is in the casting; particularly if you have no thumb control and rely heavily on the braking system.  Within reason, it will get better and better with use.  When the chips are down, the rod is just as important as the reel.
-steve

[thorhammer]

I think we talked about that rod when you got it, maybe for the 990. I'm all for max free spool, but IMO, I think you will find it plenty fast as-is for chunking lead and bait, which is what that set-up is about- you're going to need thumb anyway when your mullet head gets up in a breeze and starts to whirlygig. Any more is an academic exercise- but I know you, let us know how much more you can get

For a practical application, a bigger consideration at this point is the line. Mono is a little more tamable and easier to pick out the inevitable nest, and a "cool" line under thumb.  Braid is thinner and more sensitive, but a belt sander under thumb if you're trying to reach low altitude orbit. If it were me I'd spool with 17lb mono and a 15 ft, 50lb shock leader while you learn the throw this one. If you pile it up, it will be a lot faster or cheaper than braid to get out of. My 0.02.

[ReelFishingProblems]

The family and I are taking the camper out to Lake Anna for Thanksgiving. If we need to stay isolated, might as well be somewhere I can fish. I'm gonna take the 6500 C3 CT and the tuned 1970 6000. I'll take two rods, a 10' Penn Prevail and a 12' Offshore Angler Ocean Master. I should have some time to play with the reels and create a few bird nests. I definitely don't have an expert thumb, but should be able to toss some lead out a ways.

I do have a bearing question. I took the shields off, cleaned out the grey grease, soaked in TSI 321 and then put the shields back on. I feel like the TSI 321 is so thin it comes out and may leave the bearings dry over time. My free spool has decreased to 16-20 seconds without changing any settings. Like John mentioned, this is more of an academic exercise. How do I keep the bearings spinning like a top while not needing to be opened up and re-lubricated every 20th spin of the spool? I'm sure there are several products exactly for this purpose. Currently at home I only have Penn blue grease, Cal's, and TSI 321.

To make sure I've taken care of any other friction points, I plan on taking steel wool to surfaces again as well as the dremel with metal polish. I appreciate Ron's advice to not go too crazy with the polishing to avoid warping surfaces.

I dumped Facebook a while ago so I can't check out Tom Taiton's Facebook group for hints, but I'm sure I can get some hints from him in other ways. I also know we have some free spool experts here Tincanary seems to be one of them, but there's also a post by Alan with a TLD that had minutes of free spool. Maybe after a few years of this I'll get half as good as these crazy reel doctors.

Nick

[Ron Jones]

I looked a lot at that Ocean Master, I'd appreciate you letting us know what you think. Its light enough to cast bombs with for salmon next year.

The Man

[ReelFishingProblems]

I have only used the Ocean Master with my 990. I was able to cast 4-6oz lead with chunk bait with ease. I never measured the distance, but it went sailing. 

I have the OSR12C which is a heavy model ( 20-50lb line 6-12oz lure )

Casting repeatedly to soak baits didn't seem like much of an issue.

The blue finish does scuff up pretty easy. I've been trying to take extra care of it to avoid unsightly blemishes.

[Ron Jones]

Great,
I would probably go one down from there. THe price seems right for a beach / rock rod.
The Man

[ReelFishingProblems]

I took the 6500 C3CT (built from parts) apart and used a dremel with polishing wheels at low speed with Peek metal polish. Everything turned out very shiny and smooth. I took the bearings apart again, cleaned them out, added a single drop of TSI321 to each and put them back in the spool with only one shield on per bearing. I also left a thin copper shim out when reassembling. The shim is shown in the photo, and was originally behind the spool bearing on the handle side.

I am up to 52 seconds of free spool just spinning the spool with my thumb, and 62 seconds if I spin the handle and then depress the clutch lever. I'm not sure if I can get much more than this with the used parts I built this with.

I still haven't put any of the left side plate magtrax assembly in this. I also have zero brake blocks installed.

[SteveL]

I took the 6500 C3CT (built from parts) apart and used a dremel with polishing wheels at low speed with Peek metal polish. Everything turned out very shiny and smooth. I took the bearings apart again, cleaned them out, added a single drop of TSI321 to each and put them back in the spool with only one shield on per bearing. I also left a thin copper shim out when reassembling. The shim is shown in the photo, and was originally behind the spool bearing on the handle side.

I am up to 52 seconds of free spool just spinning the spool with my thumb, and 62 seconds if I spin the handle and then depress the clutch lever. I'm not sure if I can get much more than this with the used parts I built this with.

I still haven't put any of the left side plate magtrax assembly in this. I also have zero brake blocks installed.

That copper shim really should be in place.

One small detail, tho, on the spool assy: I did not see where you indicated there was a bent copper shim inside the spool on the crank side. (p/n 13104) http://www.abugarcia.com/sites/default/files/schematics/6600C5MAGX%20%201600.pdf  No shim, things don't go quite as planned. Thanks,  Ken.

[handi2]

In my opinion if you use TSI 301 it will spin even longer. I use the spray on the bearings and get much more freespool.

[ReelFishingProblems]

What could happen without the shim? I polished the shim up with the dremel and put it in the spool first followed by the bearing and am getting 65 seconds.

I will definitely try the 301

[thorhammer]

Have you thrown it yet?

[ReelFishingProblems]

I haven't used it yet, the Lake Anna trip ended up with significantly less fishing than I planned. I plan on putting it with a 10' penn prevail rod I have my Penn Squall 12 on, but I'd like to get something to pair specifically with this reel. Open to suggestions

[thorhammer]

prevail will do nicely. send me the Squall

[thorhammer]

     As this is a full custom build, I would suggest you do the same with the rod to match, given you have the skillzzzzzz.....a two-piece 11' or 11.5 Lami rated 3-8 or 4-10.   Vs. Prevail and OM you have, for another $150 or less, you have a legacy combo, unique with reel seat positioned specifically to you. No point in building that performance reel and putting it on a production stick that isn't laid out (re seat and guide and placement) for you and your fishing application.

A 10' is a waste on that reel. My 0.02, but with an 11.5,  3-8 you should be able to put a 150G lead out in the 400-500 foot range if not more.

[pointbob]

In my opinion if you use TSI 301 it will spin even longer. I use the spray on the bearings and get much more freespool.

what spray?