DAM Quick 110

[foakes]

The year was 1967.

DQ had a great run of success with their earlier reels —- the SW68, 250 Standard, 240 Junior, 280/285 Finessa, 265 Microlite, and the 270 Supers.

But 3 years earlier, they had realized that their offerings, while all excellent reels —- were all over the board.  They needed a standard line of reels that would offer a reel for all anglers and all types of fish —- from freshwater to HD Salt.  So the engineers, designers, machinists, marketing folks, and top management —- all went to work on a relevant and solid solution.

They also wanted to be able to use various parts, thread sizing, springs, and many other parts —- between the various sized reels.

In '67, a line of reels was introduced that would become what defined DQ in the modern angling world as one of the undisputed manufacturers of top quality reels globally.

The Finessa Line.

The models offered were the 110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, and the 550.

The smallest of these was the little 110 Microlite.

At 8.9 ounces on the nose —- this little powerhouse incorporated many of the features of the larger reels —- in a tiny all aircraft grade aluminum casing and rotor.  Steel crank axle coupled with a phosphor cut bronze main gear, steel worm-drive, oversized main bearing, and even the unique A/R system that utilized a spring-loaded dog that clicked every 45 degrees into 8 holes on the underside of the main gear.

Even the drag knob was metal —- not degradable plastic.

The entire handle and switching assembly is fully reversible from left to right with only a screwdriver and (5) minutes — no additional parts needed.

Interestingly, the gear casing is the exact same size on the 110 as the 220/221.  This means that while the rotor and stand are smaller —- if fishing for Bass, and you hook a monster or a Striper —- this reel will handle the catch and be ready for another cast.

These are reels designed to be handed down to subsequent generations —- not disposable landfill reels like we see all too often since the mid 80's.

Most of us on Alan's site know how a reel works —- or should work.  And when we also know what is inside, and the solid capability of our equipment —- we will appreciate reels like these.

In keeping with the idea of getting some of these reels into member's arsenals —- without breaking the bank —- here is a 110 that has been fully restored with new frame, rotor, sideplate, badging, switch mechanism, spool, and many other key parts to make it a new reel.  Not a repaint —- these are new parts from the factory out of the organized storage bins.

$80 and I will split the shipping.

So $85 delivered to your door via USPS Priority Mail.

And, it will include a new extra bail spring and a cloth storage bag.

Plus, no payment accepted until you receive the reel and are satisfied with it.

Best, Fred

[sandbar]

I'd love to own this one also.

[Ruffy]

Hi Fred,
Thanks for sending those few bail parts. I've gotten the 110 together, but the bail doesn't close automatically. The metal lever on the rotor that actuates the bail arm was bent at an odd angle where it goes through the rotor, I've straightened it to 90 degrees. But the bail still doesn't work. It's almost as if this metal lever has worn down the moulded aluminium tab on the body which it impacts against. I've marked it on a copy of your earlier photo.

Have you seen this before? If so, is there an easy-ish fix?

Cheers,
Andrew

[Brewcrafter]

Andrew - Wish I could provide some insight; perhaps one of the other Ohana with more knowledge can guide you.  In a post elsewhere Fred mentioned being offline for some R&R with no internet access for a week or so, I am sure he will reach out upon return but didn't want you to think your question was overlooked. - john

[oldmanjoe]

I can only answer with a picture as to what the trip lever looks like through the rotor window .  Make sure the lever is bent down enough to hit the triangle tripper .

[foakes]

Hi Andrew —-

There is an improved trip lever on all of the 110's —- compared to a thinner trip foot on the 265's.

The existing trip lever foot can be modified slightly —- inward, downwards, whatever works —- to make better contact with the frame trip nub.

Use a smooth-jawed pair of pliers or a crescent wrench.

Best, Fred