Lamiglas 11'6" Honey Blank restoration question

Started by Breadfan, January 06, 2021, 12:23:53 PM

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Breadfan

#15
Quote from: thorhammer on January 12, 2021, 04:22:18 PM
Love it. Great call on the Abu. I would recco flex coat light or Voodoo Diamond epoxy over thread work if you have a drying motor. I've switched to Voodoo Diamond II- it's pot life / working characteristics work a little better for me personally, and I think the finish is a hair better, probably because of the curing properties with my specific turner and environment.

I looked back- it's on the Voodoo site; they bought the Bullard's rights when the Bullard's got of the business. My bottle of CPx from  Voodoo actually still had Bullards on it; (it's a couple years old). Are you gonna turn the rod or leave it static after CPX application? I'm interested in how this will avoid sagging (your previous owner wasn't, lol). I had some sag even on smaller rods until i went multiple coats, but I was using a brush and leaving static. I'll use the lathe next time.

Thor, I read this article on how to apply epoxy perfectly, no motor or dryer needed. I've successfully done it on two rods and I can attest that it is easy. So many make a big deal about laying down epoxy and there is no need to worry. All you have to do is mix your epoxy correctly (of course) and dab a little on each wrap with whatever tool you want (I use a disposable paint brush, the real cheapies), get the guides saturated, then let it SAG. Once it sags, get a business card, a piece of cardstock, credit card, ( I use my brush) and scrap off the wet epoxy that is sagging and then turn the rod 180 degrees and let it level out. Once should do it. Then just turn it another 180 when you see the finish getting "heavy."Just keep doing that until it sets up.  It is exactly as simple as it sounds. My last two rods that I have built since reading that article have been perfect. The finish on the wraps are flat, flat, flat, no sags, valleys, or footballs. It's all about having the just the right amount of epoxy. It will take at least two coats to get it thick enough, I think I do three and it pops. You can find the article in the Library section of rodbuilding.org its called "Improving your epoxy finish"

https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/library.html

thorhammer

That's extremely useful- especially to folks who don't want to get into another full blown hobby and equipment!

oc1

I like that because you can remove most of the epoxy except for what saturates into the thread.  As long as the thread is saturated it is not going anywhere.  I'm not a fan of the extra weight or the look of a big rounded glob of high-built epoxy.  If you cannot feel the thread when running your fingernail over it, then there's too much epoxy.

-steve

Breadfan

#18
Here it is, I am very happy with it. I had the fuzzies on the teal thread and it took an extra coat of epoxy to make everything even but it turned out just about the way I wanted it to!

https://ibb.co/Fmsdtgx
https://ibb.co/wp69qNR
https://ibb.co/N2BvnQp
https://ibb.co/xCHnRrg
https://ibb.co/BZj07vq
https://ibb.co/LzNHzL2

steelfish

The Baja Guy