Daiwa 50H rebuild thread begins here.

[dbarnett66]

Completed the easy end of the reel first. The chrome ring side plate was replaced as well as the clicker button. Case metal containg the spool bearing was replaced as well as a clicker spring on the inside of the reel. There some washer parts missing from the previous owner, so yet another order goes in today. I also managed to clean the bridge, springs, gears, etc. I will spend more time tonight figuring out out the puzzle pieces. I applied the Daiwa blue grease to the side plate, screws and underneath too. Should have more protection than it did before.

[Bryan Young]

nice work.

[dbarnett66]

Thanks Bryan. I am stumped about these two parts. I am dry fitting, and for the life of me I can't figure how that spring is secured in place. I can see and indent where the spring fit under the brass eccentric cam, but I have to twist the eccentric cam clockwise to get the spring to fit properly under the eccentric cam. The problem is that if I let go, the spring wants to slip out. Am I missing something? How does the right side of the spring stay secured? I looked at Alan's 50h tutorial, but I must be missing something because it looks like his spring is compressed enough to allow proper alignment. Should I pinch the spring with some pliers to get the alignment right?

[dbarnett66]

Thanks Bryan. I am stumped about these two parts. I am dry fitting, and for the life of me I can't figure how that spring is secured in place. I can see and indent where the spring fit under the brass eccentric cam, but I have to twist the eccentric cam clockwise to get the spring to fit properly under the eccentric cam. The problem is that if I let go, the spring wants to slip out. Am I missing something? How does the right side of the spring stay secured? I looked at Alan's 50h tutorial, but I must be missing something because it looks like his spring is compressed enough to allow proper alignment. Should I pinch the spring with some pliers to get the alignment right?

I think I found my answer. I don't have the clutch lever installed on the outside of the reel that provides the necessary tension to keep the eccentric ring compressed. I will try tomorrow and see if this works. Since I did a complete tear down of this reel, the tutorial will only go so far. Still, it is a very helpful resource. Thanks Alan.

[dbarnett66]

Just have to apply the new badges/decals to the reels tomorrow. I am wiped out and my camera is dead. I will post some photos tomorrow when the reels have the bling and eye candy on. Everything seems to work. Not sure how to test the drag though. Your thoughts would be welcome. The reels should give me a lifetime of service with the new parts and upgraded Carbontex washers. After the decals go on then I start the next 50h after that. I still have 2 more 30H's to go after that. Will the sickness ever end?

Thanks Alan for the 50h tutorial. You saved me hours as the schematic that I have is not the best quality. You provide an awesome site and there a ton of good people here.

Thanks for all of your help. Photos are coming tomorrow.  

[dbarnett66]

The reel still has some blems, scratches, and some "patina", but it is rock solid. Can someone point out how to test the drag strength. Do you use a fishing scale? Thanks for all of the help and motivation. On to the next 50h.

[day0ne]

Yep, use a scale with a tell tale or marker and pull untill the drag slips and read the scale. A lot of people like to mount the reel on a rod andthread the line through the guides and pull that way. This is probably the most accurate but I've never found but a lb or, at the most 2, difference when pulling straight off the reel. Your mileage may vary

[dbarnett66]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but my Sealine Series reels did not perform as expected. I had three 15-20 pound Yellow Fin run at will with the drag tightened all the way down. I must have messed up on the placement of washers or shims. It felt tight when pulling by hand, but those fish had to much run. Will another metal shim add the necessary friction/pressure that is needed? Thanks in advance.

Dan

[johndtuttle]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but my Sealine Series reels did not perform as expected. I had three 15-20 pound Yellow Fin run at will with the drag tightened all the way down. I must have messed up on the placement of washers or shims. It felt tight when pulling by hand, but those fish had to much run. Will another metal shim add the necessary friction/pressure that is needed? Thanks in advance.

Dan

Bryan has a larger drag stack that will increase the drag. You just drop it in.

But YFT will easily pull 15lbs of drag, even the little ones.

You don't want to snub them short most times unless they are truly dinks. You want them to run and get tired. Remember, you are off shore and they don't even know what the bottom looks like all of their lives probably.

[kmstorm64]

scratch repair, I have found appliance paint/markers and or nail polish will work, not the best, but I failed finger painting in kindergarten so what do you expect?