Everol 12/20 "waterproof"

Started by JasonGotaProblem, March 25, 2022, 12:01:08 PM

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JasonGotaProblem

This thread that was intended to sorta be a photo gallery for the reel is beginning before I've finished servicing the reel. That may or may not be a good idea, but I'm a bit stuck. And by that I mean how do I get the main gear to come out of the frame? I removed the retaining spring, yet it's still retained. It seems to be sitting in some kind of brass sleeve that likely has to move because the sideplate lip is in the way of the gear sliding out.

But yeah I thought this thing was grimy outside. Inside was pretty bad. I think I understand the price now. This thing may have been dunked before its 12 year nap. And the previous owner probably thought it was toast. But being an everol, that likely won't be an issue.

Gears appear to be steel, but the AR dogs (there's 2 in an alternating arrangement) and ratchet are both brass or bronze. But they're suuuuper chunky. There didn't seem to be much grease at all on the inside of the sideplates, but they're not corroded despite what looked like literal dry salt powder inside, so there must have been a thin layer of something. They will be greased when I'm finished.

I will say this though. The "waterproof" name refers to the drag, not the reel as a whole (though previous owner likely didnt realize that). And some on other sites have pointed out that its more like water resistant. And that's likely more accurate. But while the entire rest of the reel seems like it's seen saltwater and other nastiness up close and personal, the drag assembly was pristinely clean inside. But it did not appear greased. Well that changed, my drags stay greasy. I also polished the metal discs to a mirror finish, and no other reel I've worked on has been that close to mirror finish before I started.

I noticed the main/pinion design is sorta the inverse of a penn reel. I can't help wondering why that's so different. Though I can't say i know enough to say why one is better than the other. Or if it even is better. Also I expected to see larger bearings. But they appear to do the job, the spool shaft has 2 bearings on each side, which is interesting.  and the ones it came with spin very extremely freely after cleaning. Sign of quality. I was surprised though that the screws connecting the sideplates to the bridge (I think that's the name, the non sideplate part of the body that's not the bottom) only seemed to go a few turns into the bridge, despite the threaded holes being much deeper. Everol website claims their screws are all standard sizes, so I may try to find longer SS screws, even though that may not even be an issue if that's how it came.

More pics will come as I finish this. it was like 1am and that main gear wasnt budging, I had to put a pin in it for the night. Note for those interested, the pdf of the schematic is also attached to this post.
Any machine is a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.

thorhammer

I have a pair of the Super 50's. They have the capacity of a Penn 80 std width, and built like tanks. Yours looks like an older one- stand and bars vs. tube frame. No matter for the line class of the reel. I don't see a clamp, but the Torque clamp from Mystic is slotted and should fit. All aluminum, anodized, for about two bucks, and an improvement over the stock Everol clamp. I disremember what thread pitch those studs are. I replaced mine with longer ones to take Strikemaster clamps.

Nice save- not sure if it's your now or clients, but ready to go get kingfish for many more years.


John

Bill B

Jason, I'm sure you tried, but the side plate looks to be two pieces.  The schematic doesn't show two, but looking at other pictures it seems to be two.  Others who have experience will chime in.  Bill
It may not be very productive,
but it's sure going to be interesting!

steelfish

looks similar to the 1st gen Penn international reels.

looking forward for the rest of the pics
The Baja Guy

JasonGotaProblem

More pics as requested. I never got the main gear out. I just cleaned it in place and greased around it as best i could. I intend to take another crack at it. But it otherwise cleaned up very nice.

I come to realize the drag has a lot more in common with a spinner than it does with a 'normal' conventional. The drag is on the spool not on the gears.

That AR assembly is chuuuunky.

I ordered a 500m spool of 65# multicolor daiwa x8 Jbraid. That oughta do it.
Any machine is a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.

steelfish

#5
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 29, 2022, 06:58:42 PMI come to realize the drag has a lot more in common with a spinner than it does with a 'normal' conventional. The drag is on the spool not on the gears.


thats a NORMAL lever drag setting, the drag washer is always on the side of the spool, as example: on the accurate Twin drag reels = one drag washer on each side  of the spool

on every Star Drag conventional reels drag washers are inside the main gear.


the reel looks pretty good and with a nice shine, once you installed the line on it, take some time to know your reel, so many test on different drag settings, you might already know that you increase or decrease the drag with the Drag knob preset but you use the lever to adjust the drag till the drag number you want to use .
The Baja Guy

JasonGotaProblem

Quote from: steelfish on March 29, 2022, 08:28:52 PMthats a NORMAL lever drag setting, the drag washer is always on the side of the spool, as example: on the accurate Twin drag reels = one drag washer on each side  of the spool

Am I talking out my #### again? Figures.
Any machine is a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.

steelfish

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 29, 2022, 08:35:22 PMAm I talking out my #### again? Figures.

you're just learning, thats it.


not many years ago, I was asking my friends how to use an spinning reel and why everything about fishing was so expensive (myself seeing prices from $40 to $60 dlls rods.. now go figure!), now they call me every time they want to buy a new reel to follow my advice on which one will work better on our waters, which one has more quality on the long run, same with fishing rods.
The Baja Guy

JasonGotaProblem

I'm not gonna lie, how scratched the sideplates of this thing are will likely alwaya bother me. There's a part of me considering polishing it down to silver mirror finish and throwing on a coat of protectaclear. I bought a bottle a year ago and have yet to try it. Though I hear good things. I would leave everything else gold. So yes, the reel can be flashier than it currently is. I'd never consider it on a pristine reel but this ain't pristine. After what I did on the penn SS reels these pancakes look like a piece of cake to polish. But then I may turn around and scratch them up again.

I dunno. It may be cool.
Any machine is a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.

oldmanjoe

Perhaps some nail polish or gold paint and rub it in the scratches and bald spots .   I can also offer you a one time deal , i will give you 50 cents on the dollar you spent and take off your hands . >:D
   
Grandpa`s words of wisdom......Joey that thing between your shoulders is not a hat rack.....    use it.....
A mind is like a parachute, it only work`s  when it is open.......
The power of Observation   , It`s all about the Details ..
 Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.   Alto Mare

Robert Janssen

The sideplate as you have it, consists of two pieces: the actual sideplate, and inboard of that, a spacing ring. They just fit together, no screws or anything like that. They are of slightly different width on the left and right sides iirc; take note of that upon disassembly.

Your reel was likely made around 2002, not later. iirc gear material was chrome plated bronze. Pinion is stainless steel.

I think I have a de-anodized and polished sideplate somewhere. Or, I know I do, just not where. De-anodizing and polishing is usually more work than it sounds like, but you can do it if you like.

.

JasonGotaProblem

I finally got to do a drag test on this fella. With a completely full spool, the preset torqued down as far as i could go and the lever up to just before the button, I'm seeing a comfy 22#, and pushed past the button, it's sitting at 25#.

And even at that tight preset, I can still get some freespool. Dialed down to where I see better free spool I'm seeing 18# of drag with the lever stopped before the click.

And at all these settings the drag never stopped being silky smooth. It was never jerky. I'm satisfied.

Though the main gear being chromed brass definitely drops this reel a few pegs in my opinion. Who does that?
Any machine is a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.

thorhammer

I have a Gen 1 80 Int that was similarly abused, and someone had dremeled their name into the sideplate. I still figured it was worth the $150 I paid for it, if I just were hung it on the wall on an old Fenwick. Actually works flawlessly after service, but the crappy engraving and rash still annoyed me. I made a nice vinyl label on the Brother which indicated braid and mono rigging and it covers the crap, while making me look dialed in on my rigging :)

I used a lot code something like 1700150150130, meaning 2021 service (1), 700 yds 150 braid and 150 yards 130 topshot. 18 turn Bimini to Alan's modified Pena, crimped onto BB Spro snap swivel.

jurelometer

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on April 25, 2022, 02:49:39 PMThough the main gear being chromed brass definitely drops this reel a few pegs in my opinion. Who does that?

Bronze is different than brass.  Some grades of bronze make for better gears than some grades of stainless. But not sure about the chrome plating.

I have learned to embrace the boat rash.  Who wants to worry about whether a reel is getting scratched when you are out fishing.  And if you are the guy that shows up on the trip with the shiny unused looking high end gear, the pressure is on.  Any skunk card will be extra stinky :)

Quote from: thorhammer on April 25, 2022, 06:17:30 PMI have a Gen 1 80 Int that was similarly abused, and someone had dremeled their name into the sideplate. I still figured it was worth the $150 I paid for it, if I just were hung it on the wall on an old Fenwick. Actually works flawlessly after service, but the crappy engraving and rash still annoyed me. I made a nice vinyl label on the Brother which indicated braid and mono rigging and it covers the crap, while making me look dialed in on my rigging :)


But I also would draw the line at  "prison tattoo" style engraving. Have to cover that one up. :)

-J

JasonGotaProblem

If I had a problem with brass or bronze I'd have a problem with a lot of awesome reels with reliable gears. My issue is with the plating, for reasons I think I learned from you. Either way I'm looking forward to fishing it.
Any machine is a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.