Which DAM Series to Fish With?

[sharkman]

My favorite dock snook combo is dam quick 270 with harnell rod. Biggest snook on combo was 35 inches long.

[foakes]

That 270 Super reel, coupled with that Harnell rod, and appropriate sized fresh line —- will handle most anything large or very large.

The weakest link will be your hooks getting straightened out.

Best, Fred

[Barishi]

Going back to this thread, may I ask what DAM Quick reel can pull 4-6 oz at a deep water pier? I asked Alan Hawk if the 440N or 280 could do it, he said that it was way too much for these reels. This is the main kind of fishing I do, and I already have multipliers for this work. I just got a Finessa to try out before moving forwards, so I'm thinkung about what I can do.

Also about the N series DAMs, does that one side plate screw make the reels weaker than their predecessors?

[foakes]

A 270 Super or a 5001 should handle the weight.

Drag is much better on a 5001.

The sideplate on an "N" series also has a tab at the front of the sideplate that holds the plate in place. 

Best, Fred

[Barishi]

A 270 Super or a 5001 should handle the weight.

Drag is much better on a 5001.

The sideplate on an "N" series also has a tab at the front of the sideplate that holds the plate in place. 

Best, Fred

Why not the 550/550N? If they had the 270 Super spool.

Just curious Fred, why do people say the Ns were not as good as their predecessors? These were the first DAM reels I was recommended to use.

[foakes]

The "N's" are very fine reels —-

Smooth operation, simple and effective.

But when throwing heavy baits, a metal spool (as you mentioned) is better.

However, in these conditions, there is more expected of these reels —- so it isn't just the metal spools.

It is the larger drag discs in a 5001 —- top and under the spool.  Plus, when throwing heavy baits for large fish —- an A/R system that stops the drive train at the gears instead of the outer edge of the aluminum rotor is preferable, IMO.

Lots of anglers use braid in these conditions.

On the 270, the drag stack can be beefed up and the spools switched out to the more modern 270 version with multiple discs. 

There are other considerations and many details.

But either a 5001 (first choice) or a 270 Super will handle the iron you are going to throw —- provided the reel is set up properly.

Other Vintage choices would be a Penn 706, or 704.  Either Z's or greenies.

After DQ used the aluminum rotor A/R system in the "N" series reels —- they switched back to a dead-solid system in (14) of the 16 reels in the (3) Championship Series of reels.

This A/R system utilizes the SS Worm-Pinion to stop the rotor from slipping when using heavy iron against strong fish, in salt conditions.

If you are asking what I would use in the conditions you describe —- it would be the big DQ 5001 or a large Penn 706, 706Z, or the 704/704Z.

One other consideration would be the rarer 5001 —- in a lower speed gear ratio of 1:2.5 —- compared to the typical 5001 at 1:4.0.  But for tossing iron, the slower speed while easier to pull in the heavy plug and a large fish —- may be too slow for these types of conditions.

Alan Hawke is as always, absolutely correct in his advice to you on the smaller DQ reels.

The reason many manufacturers have so many different sized reels available in a certain series —- is so the angler can more closely as well as effectively match the reel to the conditions. 

Best, Fred

[Barishi]

Thanks Fred. I no longer doubt that the N series was any less rigid than the original Finessa series because I just got a 440N for display and the sideplate refuses to come off. Do you have any tips on how to get it off?

On an unrelated note, do the P series Quicks have plastic spools?

[foakes]

Thanks Fred. I no longer doubt that the N series was any less rigid than the original Finessa series because I just got a 440N for display and the sideplate refuses to come off. Do you have any tips on how to get it off?

On an unrelated note, do the P series Quicks have plastic spools?

After removing the sideplate screw, just use an old pocket knife in the seam on the underside.

Tap it with a small hammer or just a screwdriver handle —- and it will come apart easily.

This generally means that the reel has never been cracked open since leaving the factory in Germany.  You will find old, stiff brown grease in there.

Clean it all out and replace with modern synthetic grease and synthetic oil.

The "P" series have non-skirted graphite spools that also have the adjustable line-lay feature.

Best, Fred

[Barishi]

Thanks Fred. I no longer doubt that the N series was any less rigid than the original Finessa series because I just got a 440N for display and the sideplate refuses to come off. Do you have any tips on how to get it off?

On an unrelated note, do the P series Quicks have plastic spools?

After removing the sideplate screw, just use an old pocket knife in the seam on the underside.

Tap it with a small hammer or just a screwdriver handle —- and it will come apart easily.

This generally means that the reel has never been cracked open since leaving the factory in Germany.  You will find old, stiff brown grease in there.

Clean it all out and replace with modern synthetic grease and synthetic oil.

The "P" series have non-skirted graphite spools that also have the adjustable line-lay feature.

Best, Fred

Hi Fred, your advice worked like a charm. One thing about this reel is that the bail arm is at an awkward angle to the spool. Is that an issue? If it has to do with the bail spring, I have a spare.

I don't have any proper tools to refurbish this reel. Is it ok if I use aluminium foil and steel polish to clean out some of the parts?

[foakes]

Looks right from here —- compared to a couple of others I checked out of the bins.

As to cleaning —-

Anything you do will be better —- but with old factory grease, the old grease needs to be removed and replaced with new grease and oiled to accomplish proper performance.

Also, after soaking the internals in a solvent for awhile —-

It is important to also clean out the brass crank and worm bushings with a smaller drill bit covered in "0000" steel wool.  Also the same with the inside of the steel worm pinion.

Then finally use some of the "0000" steel wool on the spool shaft.

Then, after a complete cleaning and proper lubrication with synthetic grease and syn oil —- the smoothness and performance will be amazing.

Remember also —- a small drop or two of oil at the exact right spot is 10 times more effective than a lot of oil everywhere.

As for the tools you decide to use —- I can't condone or comment on dozens of techniques to service reels.  I can only advise what I do that is quick, effective, and that promotes top performance going forward.

Best, Fred

[JasonGotaProblem]

Fred I'm intrigued by this business of a drill bit with steel wool. for the inside working surface of a pinion gear I'm quite fond of using either buffing compound, polishing compound, or chrome polish, on a q-tip in.a drill chuck. depending on the condition of the inside face before I start.

I guess my question is do you consider the steel wool technique more or less aggressive than the above? Though I suppose that depends on which wool you use.

[foakes]

Fred I'm intrigued by this business of a drill bit with steel wool. for the inside working surface of a pinion gear I'm quite fond of using either buffing compound, polishing compound, or chrome polish, on a q-tip in.a drill chuck. depending on the condition of the inside face before I start.

I guess my question is do you consider the steel wool technique more or less aggressive than the above? Though I suppose that depends on which wool you use.

It has worked for me on thousands of reels.

The possible issue with using a rubbing compound is —-

While effective initially —- the compound also fills the microscopic unseen scratches in a reel part.  Then, when lubrication is applied such as synthetic oil —- it "activates" the RC microscopic residue —- and could cause a friction slowdown in the reel operation.

I just burnish the sleeves, bushings, and innards of interior friction areas for maybe a minute until they become warm.  Blow out any residue, rinse and dry —- then assemble and lube with syn oil.

Grease goes on the gears and larger friction points, oil goes on crank axles, spool shafts, bushings, etc.

The reel will operate like oil on glass.

And it doesn't take any time at all.

I keep various sizes of drill bits with "0000" steel wool —- and a drill already at hand and chucked up, ready to go.

The key to a smooth reel is getting any metal tarnish, rust, and crud off of any friction surface —- so it operates perfectly.  Particularly all of the places that you cannot see into —- or that no one else will either.  But, a sluggish, unsmooth operation is felt by anyone.

I give it the hearing test.  I clean parts until one cannot hear them interact anymore —- frictionless and smooth.  Actually better than new.

The littlest detail things make the big things work effortlessly.

Best, Fred

[Midway Tommy]

0000 steel wool is actually pretty mild as far as buffing/polishing processes go, I've always been advised, though, to be mindful of the fine metal dust created by using steel wool. Whenever I use it vigorously I make sure I rinse the part with a solvent and then blow it off with compressed air.

[Barishi]

If it comes to it I'll probably use aluminium foil wrapped around a q tip or something, I don't have a drill or steel wool 

[Barishi]

So, I've recieved my Finessa and 440N today and I took both apart to service. I only got as far as the snap ring because I realised that I don't own snap ring pliers. The ball bearing was obviously spinning nicely so I decided to add some oil and call it a day.

I also added grease to the pinion's opening and rotor nut. I'm preparing the Finessa for a friend to fish while the 440N is mainly for collection. While both are functionally great, I have a few problems I was hoping people on this site know how to solve.

1. The line rollers on both aren't spinning. I've oiled them and they still don't spin under finger pressure.
2. The Finessa feels like the spool is hitting the rotor. Not too sure what to do here.
3. The black tab at the bail wire has fallen off. Is this a big problem? Its that round black thing that holds the bail wire opposite to the line roller.
4. Is there supposed to be a rubber ring at the bail release tab? I'm sure the 440N doesnt look like it needs it, but I'm not sure about the Finessa.
5. How do you tell when your Finessa was built? My 440N is a 1975 model according to the box. Mine has brown inner sideplates.