DIY CT Conversion

[JasonGotaProblem]

I'm thinking about using a long hex head bolt to go all the way through, and will look for or create a shorter nut for the other side if needed.

Not gonna lie though my wife is giving birth in a few days so this may not be an immediate project.

[jurelometer]

Don't think that a through-bolt will give you much in the way of structural support. 

If you guys are looking to just ditch the levelwind, and are willing to leave in the top bar, then you just need something that provides the same amount rigidity as the worm cover/crossbar. it looks to me like the top crossbar helps lock the side crossbars into place, so if you remove trhe top, things might get a bit less rigid.

In other words, epoxying in the worm may not buy much in the way of rigidity unless the the worm cover/post was subject to flexing, which seems unlikely.  The reel is probably  just as strong if you simply removed the worm.  No custom work required.

Things only get tricky if you want to remove the top bar, and/or make the frame more rigid.

I think that from a mechanical engineering standpoint, the rigidity is going to be determined by the combination of the contact surface area between the crossbar and the inside of the frame and the total surface are defined by the outline of the crossbar/frame contact area.

That aftermarket bar increases the surface area by having a rod that is a larger diameter next to the frame, and then tapering to a smaller diameter, presumably to minimize line slap on the cast.  The kit also has a jumbo flathead screw to get some purchase on the hole to hold the crossbar against the frame. 

Another technique would be to make a larger flat crossbar, something like what was used on the stock CTs.  Top and bottom crossbar screws would be even better, but would leave holes if you ever wanted to convert back.

I bet Tom at Cortez could make a really nice one piece frame.  I also wonder if just a single piece foot/crossbar would be an option, or if it is too hairy to remove the original foot from the frame sides

Doing this all from a foggy memory of ABU internals, so take this with a grain of salt.

-J

[Breadfan]

Another technique would be to make a larger flat crossbar, something like what was used on the stock CTs.  Top and bottom crossbar screws would be even better, but would leave holes if you ever wanted to convert back.



-J

I like this idea best so far. Now, if we could think of a way to do this without needed to do specialized machining... Although, it does not have to be round you could use a thick walled pipe that matches the round circumference of the frame, cut what you need out of it and tap it. Yes, it would leave holes if you wanted to go back but parts frames are cheap.

[thorhammer]

If we only had someone on here that had ever produced crossbars and had the experience....

[JasonGotaProblem]

Those of you who are familiar with looking at such diagrams, will know how bad my sketch is. But basically I'm thinking 2 thin-ish horseshoe shaped plates connected by 2 bars. Though I guess it's not so different from being a full frame at that point. Basically utilize the rear cross bar to add rigidity by building a box

[Ron Jones]

I've fished several reels with the level wind and top bar removed, never felt like rigidity was a concern. The bar across the front is really there to make the reel not look weird, anything will work.
The Man

[oldmanjoe]

Does any one have one of these bar kits ,that they can post a picture of .
    I think i found the kit at .  https://hookless.com/          Kinder makes seance  but looks like it`s a fat bar .315 diameter !  I see the screw on one end and the other end looks like a screw and washer .    The stud picture looks better , not sure how it`s suppose to be used .    Is this a two bar kit were as the upper groove line guide bar is replaced also?  Two pictures from hookless  and one that i took measurements from a 550 plus .  I would make a bar with a tenon and nail head on one end and screw to hold it in the frame on the other end . 

[oc1]

Gee, it's been a long time since I contempleted this.  That bar with the groove for the levelwind guide wire has to come out of there too.  Right?  Cut it out but leave a nail head and the stud to screw to the right side plate cup.

[UKChris1]

An interesting thread that has brought back memories of discussions in the UK angling press from many years ago when CT frames were unheard of and the UK long-distance casting fraternity were doing their own conversion of level-wind Abu reels (generally 6000 size).

As you'll know, the problem with level-wind reels is the retarding effect of the level wind on distance casting plus the inability to hold the reel spool firmly with the thumb during the cast because the crossbar gets in the way.

Abu listened and eventually brought out CT versions of the 6000 (red plate for bushings and black plate for ball-bearings). I'm no expert on the many variations, but I believe there was the 6500 that had a higher gear ratio than the original 6000 and the CT version of it had blue plates. Later the 6500 Mag Elite with magnets and dark green plates appeared; probably the best of the bunch.

Good luck with the DIY!

 

[JasonGotaProblem]

First attempt. Less than $2 spent so far. Gonna spool it up today with 15# braid and see what it can do.
Not pictured was the hour I spent counter-sinking the frame and filing down that cap because the plate fits directly up against the frame and the main gear is directly on the other side. Tried to do some testing with it kinda dry assembled and it doesn't work at all until those two match up perfectly.
Also that piece is non-anodized aluminum. So this is curre tly now a freshwater only build. But that'll change.

[JasonGotaProblem]

Spooled up with 200 yds of 20# nomad braid. This was a good call. It casts great. Way better than with heavier braid and a level wind.

[oc1]

That's very nice Jason.  The next step is to get one of those Ambassadeur plastic snap-on spool arbors.  It will replace almost a hundred yards of line and weight less. That is, unless you are the optimistic type with high expectations.

I wouldn't worry about the saltwater.  Going over it with a green scrub pad every few months (without disassembly) will get the oxide off.

[JasonGotaProblem]

That's very nice Jason.  The next step is to get one of those Ambassadeur plastic snap-on spool arbors.  It will replace almost a hundred yards of line and weight less. That is, unless you are the optimistic type with high expectations.

great advice. I have one installed already. Many thanks to Keith. I'm not made of braid money. That's my backing.

I have some ceramics I may install, but no rush.

[JasonGotaProblem]

So I went thru this guy again. Trimmed down the peg a bit further and added a shim to the the other side to get the spacing just right. I put in the ceramics with some TSI and polished the spool shaft a bit. Lots of free spool now. I may try to add some magnets but I seem to cast this guy fine without them.

I did an apples to apples comparison with the lure I was using the reel with before I did the CT conversion. It's different line, but I'm throwing a 3/8oz soft plastic AT LEAST 30% further. So.to quantify that with a 6' rod I was throwing a 3/8oz lure about 60 yds before I did the ceramics.

Below is the the head that i filed down next to an unmodified one.

And the stock handle from a 27SH seems an appropriate fit for now.

[jurelometer]

I dug up and measured measured my old and abused 6500 and the ID spacing between the frame sides was so dead on at 46 mm that my digital calipers only showed at most  .02 mm difference, which is like .001 inch, a higher degree of accuracy than you could afford to specify in an anodized aluminum frame. 

As shipped by ABU, all these frames are probably ridiculously square, which is the most important thing for casting distance, as it keeps the ball bearings running down the center of the grooves, minimizing resistance.

Removing posts, and replacing posts with a spacer or bolt that pulls the frame inwards, decreases  support, and more importantly will be "pinching" the frame sides inward, risking alignment failure.  You are relying on the remaining posts to keep the frame square.

To do this right, the replacement spacer has to be very accurate in length, square (level face) on the ends, and in combination with the screw, place pressure on both faces of the frame side.

The other option is to simply remove the levelwind and try not to screw up the frame alignment by tightening the replacement post very much, and give up some rigidity.

Joe had some good advice on doing this closer to the right way by using a hollow rod.  McMaster Carrr sells stainless 8mm spacers and long screws that could be used.  You will still have to figure out a way to cut down and finish  the spacer to exactly the right length  and square - but this will be easier  than boring and tapping a solid rod dead square unless you have access to a metal lathe.

I think that Joe's method has the best chance for success without special equipment.  If you want to use tapped holes, I would still use the hollow rods  or spaces in either aluminum or stainless, and use the existing hole as a pilot for your tap drill.

If you use Aluminum rod, 6061 would probably be preferable to some of the general purpose alloys sometimes used for these products.  For stainless, 316 is preferable of 301 or 303, but it is trickier to work with.  Most reel screws are not 316 either, so it is not the end of the world.

Hope this helps,

-J