Gear grinding on 113H

[Finest Kind]

I just replaced the main and pinion gear with the high speed 4-1 SS gears. Also SS eccentric jack, yoke, DD bridge, and gear sleeve. Also new Tiburon frame and spool. When I put it together there is a lot of grinding and rumbling when the reel is in gear. Freespool is poor, and if I turn the handle in freespool I still get the gear grinding. Reel worked fine in it's original configuration.Does anyone have an idea where I should look first?
Thanks,
John

[Gfish]

Wow, lot's a new parts. I would disassemble, then rebuild, but only use one new part each of the 6 times you might godda do it. This has a "chance" of identifying the not quite fitting right part. Then again, it could be 2 or more new parts causing the issue.
Kinna sounds like the pinion is tilting which would be a result of the yolk out of alignment. This would cause excessive pinion rub on the spool shaft, and maybe pinion to main-gear misalignment(grinding).

Interesting. Thanks for posting. Wanna see how this one comes out.

[Keta]

Start by checking the drag stack height. Then check the eccentric jack to make sure the pinion is disengaging fully from the main gear.  You can bend the ears on the jack to increase yoke travel.

[Swami805]

Many times it takes some tweaking to get custom parts to work together perfectly. Sometimes filing a little bevel on the leading edge of the yoke can be helpful   A tiny bend to the eccentric ears but not too much
The SS gears can be noisy too
Try like G said and mix in stock parts and find the trouble maker

[Finest Kind]

Thank you for the advice everyone. The drag stack hadn't occurred to me. This was originally an older reel, practically unused, with the brake lining drag washers. So I changed them to the Penn HT 100 five stack with new metals. Another variable! The spool is skewed to the tailplate side in the Tib T4NK frame. I am going to put it back together with original posts, spool, and stand for tinkering purposes. Don't want to strip the holes in the Tib frame taking it apart a few dozen times. I'll get it right tho.
Thanks, John

[Shellbelly]

The spool is skewed to the tailplate side in the Tib T4NK frame.

Can you post a picture of that issue?

[Finest Kind]

The spool is skewed to the tailplate side in the Tib T4NK frame.

Can you post a picture of that issue?

Actually I just put it back in the original frame. Same issue. Traded out the SS yoke and eccentric jack for the old brass, tried bending the ears on the brass eccentric jack a bit, filing the edge of the yoke, nothing helped. Now the SS yoke and eccentric are back in. I just noticed that with the drag backed all the was off, it seems smooth. When I tighten the drag, the gears are very rough and rumbling with the reel in gear, and in freespool when I turn the handle there is rough grinding as if the pinion and main gear are still touching. This only happens when I start to tighten the drag. So somehow the drag is involved. Just have to figure out how.
John

[Keta]

Try polishing the spool shaft with steel wool and look for burrs where the pinion gear engages the spool.

[Shellbelly]

I can't get past the spool being skewed in the frame issue.  If that doesn't get resolved, the reel, in any rendition you choose, will likely not meet your expectations.  Bearing-to-bearing misalignment affects the movement of most of the other gear-side parts.   

If you're adjusting parts before spool alignment is achieved, you could be adjusting to the misalignment and might have to re-adjust (or replace parts) after alignment.

Tough to advise without sitting next to the reel!

[PacRat]

I find that when working with custom parts from different manufacturers, that you will likely need to fit each part to the reel and confirm that it fits correctly before moving on to the next.

What main and pinion are you using?...where did you acquire them? Confirm that this is a matched set and that they are from a reputable source. How does the ID of the pinion look? This can be polished when necessary.

What washer do you have under the main?...and which gear stem are you using?

Also, a word of caution when bending tabs on your stainless eccentric jack: These are hard and you can break the tabs (don't ask how I know). If you really need to tweak the tabs I would suggest annealing them first but no guarantees as I haven't had to do this myself.

Lastly, how much have you experimented with spool centering? Sometimes a little right of left movement can make a big difference.

[Brewcrafter]

Read this, see if it helps send in the right direction...
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=31860.msg372415#msg372415
- john

[MarkT]

I've had to shim the spool to get it centered correctly.

[Gfish]

Spools can be centered with a shim down in the ball bearing cup. Delrin dots punched out with a leather hole making tool are what I use. This may not solve the problem but might be a good start. The main gear and pinion will/should always be completely engaged. The 'shoulders" on the spool shaft and the female part of the pinion could be touching in freespool(not supposed to).

It's impossible to see all this when the reel is partially or fully assembled and involves a-lot of experimentation. This makes it fun and interesting to me...

[Finest Kind]

I have a lot of information here. Thank you. I am going to have another look. I got all the internal parts from Mystic reels. Pro challenger bridge, main and pinion gears, eccentric jack, yolk. Cortez conversions gear sleeve. Tiburon spool and frame. Delrin under gear washer. This is an older external drag reel so I will check to see if I can detect any rubbing.I have only had to shim the spool on one other reel that I have, a surfmaster. But the reel worked perfectly even before I shimmed the spool. The shimming did improve the freespool. I am going to start on this one by polishing the spool shaft and taking a look at the pinion.
John

[Keta]

External drags do not have as much problem with stack height.