Penn 710z mod project

[circlehook]

While I'm definitely  not the first to undertake a modification project on the 710z, I'd like to document the project , and any questions, choices, observations, errors etc I make . There are a ton of descriptions on the web but many of the images have been lost .

I was initially intending to modify my 710 greenie  but couldn't bring myself to alter it so I picked up a battered and neglected 710z for this purpose . I've decided to name this reel the "black sheep", even if it ends up another color .

[circlehook]

First off, it looks like the oiler nipple on the torpedo handle knob has never seen a drop of oil on its life. I soaked it in vinegar overnight and picked away at any crud. The nipple is still frozen so I've sprayed it with WD-40 for the time being as I'm out of penetrating oil. I will evaluate this periodically.

[circlehook]

The roller was frozen onto the bail.

WD40 didn't loosen anything . One of these days, I need to make up some custom penetrating oil for soaking purposes (ATF + acetone as a carrier). Only for metal parts though as acetone can be aggressive on some plastics.

I tried pulling with some heavy monofilament  tied around the waist of the roller but that didn't work.

Neither did a moderate application of heat.

I tried wedging a thin utility knife between the roller and the bail arm to create some leverage. No luck.

Finally , I wrapped half a dozen turns of electrical tape and twisted it out with a pair of vice grips . As feared, I have a few superficial marks on the edge of the roller and I've mostly buffed those out since using  some fine emery paper . Upon removal, I observed that everything was completely gunked up so I cleaned up that mess too

[circlehook]

I need to investigate why the bail trip doesn't fully slot into the bail arm - maybe corrosion / dirt or maybe something is tweaked). I plan to do this while / after servicing the reel.

[circlehook]

Question:
I intend to refinish this reel a different color. Do I need to strip it down to bare metal or should I just sand it down smooth and go from there .

I know the greenies were easier to strip but not sure of the black spinfishers .

Is aircraft paint remover still the only choice , or can I use regular citristrip or kleenstrip found at the hardware store ?

[foakes]

Oftentimes, when a line guide is frozen with corrosion to the bail —- I just break it apart and install a new one.

On the paint —- just depends how you want it to look after you complete the job.

Sanding and painting over the old paint is a quick and good way to go —- and the results are more than acceptable.

Glass bead blasting also works to strip it down to metal.

And a shell casing tumbler also works.

Or a quick trip to the powder-coating shop with a case of beer & $20. They will dip the parts in their vat —- and there will be no more paint in about 5 minutes.

Best, Fred

[circlehook]

Thanks . I'll try a light sanding and reevaluate from there. While the reel is pretty battered , the paint is mostly still intact ( hardly down to bare metal except in a couple of spots).


The plan is to redo the paint with some Alumahyde II . Ideally, I'd like to finish this reel in bare metal but don't want to deal with the continuous upkeep.

Might go for a grey metallic + gold handle / spool  look like this Shimano .

[JasonGotaProblem]

Citristrip works wonders on the paint they used on these. Sand a bit, coat with citri and come back in an hour.

You could also polish it instead of painting. That's very satisfying when youre finished.

[circlehook]

Citristrip works wonders on the paint they used on these. Sand a bit, coat with citri and come back in an hour.

You could also polish it instead of painting. That's very satisfying when youre finished.

Thanks. Bare metal would be ideal but I worry about upkeep and aluminium corrossion. Any solutions , apart from constant wax?

[JasonGotaProblem]

Citristrip works wonders on the paint they used on these. Sand a bit, coat with citri and come back in an hour.

You could also polish it instead of painting. That's very satisfying when youre finished.

Thanks. Bare metal would be ideal but I worry about upkeep and aluminium corrossion. Any solutions , apart from constant wax?

I've done 2 of these. Corrosion has been minor, even using it wading, but I'm good about rinsing after. I coated with rem oil after finishing the polish job because I had some on hand. I bought protectaclear and was gonna use it but never did because it seems just fine.

[jgp12000]

CH,
I got a spare rotor for my 712z at Mystic fer $30 new with new decals installed.I have painted a few reels,liquid mask works good on the hard to tape areas. I usually completely disassemble them.I had a Mitchell 300 powder coated gold at a local offroad store. It was his 1st reel,he only charged $20 it came out ok,nothing like the gold sample. Chrome or Black would have been easier and looked better.He didn't plug some of the screw holes,and I had get some metric taps to clean out the holes.

[circlehook]

Thanks for the suggestions .
I cleaned out the reel and repeated with a spare 712 main + pinion gears that I purchased separately . Everything seems to work with an increased retrieve . I guestimate 4 turns of the rotor for every 1 crank of the handle vs 3.5 for the stock gears.

Next , I'll break down the reel completely    in preparation for mods

[jgp12000]

These reels are simple but tough is why I like them.

[circlehook]

I broke the reel down and after a cursory degrease using simple-green, decided to soak the housing and rotor in a 50/50 water/ vinegar solution . Not sure if this will help get rid of any superficial corrosion before I start stripping but we'll see. If this is taboo, please let me know

[Midway Tommy]

Vinegar can be pretty rough on brass and bronze components. I have seen numerous cracks in brass gearing, etc., caused by vinegar soaks so it's best to be tentative with vinegar around brass.