brucechoi

Hi Alan,

I have TLD20A II (Made in Malaysia) since 2010 I believe and I have been using it for bottom fishing probably less than 15 times and no maintenance by professional because I have maintained very clean.
I have seen from many posts saying this reel needs some kind of upgrade for drag washer and more.
Is this still worth the money to upgrade my TLD20A II with Tiburon Engineering Frame?? And Can you do the job and what will be the total cost including labor and shipping?

Thank you

Bruce

http://www.tiburonengineering.com/html/frames.htm

erikpowell

Bula Bruce,
There's really no need to upgrade the drags on these 2 speed reel.... we do upgrade the TLD single speeds, but that is to basically to bring them up to the specs of the 2speeds by the addition of carbon fiber drags and heavier bellvilles.

When there's big YFT around, I regularly fish my serviced/stock TLD20 Speed with 25lbs at strike with 80lb topshot over braid.. tried and true.

That 20 size frame is pretty darn strong and Alan himself won't even call a frame upgrade for this reel "necessary".
I do consider Alan's handle upgrade a MUST though... ditch that puny stock handle for some nice cranking power  ;)

The 30 size with it's wider frame, Yes, maybe, upgrade the frame.
The 50 size.... FOR SURE !  ;D

But then again nobody should be buying a graphite frame 50lb 2speed reel anyway.  ;)

There's a good discussion on this here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1151.15

Cheers

MFB

Hi Bruce,

Got one from Alan for my 30A. They are easy to swap over, just watch out for the detent spring on the high low switch on the handle it can jump out if you're not careful.

Rgds

Mark
No man can lose what he never had.
                                                   Isaac Walton

brucechoi

#33
Thank you erikpowell & Mark for detailed explanations and Photo.
Anyone knows the weight after swapping with Mag 20T Frame from Tiburon Engineering?? and the price for the upgrade??

The stock TLD 20 II are 36.2oz
I understand the Stock frame is strong enough but I am a little concerned about the weight.

I will do the Alan's handle upgrade for sure but don't know how.
Mark!
Is the handle on your upgraded TLD30 picture from Alan??
Someone please share with me the picture of alan's handle, Price and tell me how to order them.

Erikpowell!!! R U sure TLD20 II is rated for 80# Tuna?? I didn't know that. If that is true then I will try to use this reel for my 40# set up or higher.
I have been using this reel for bottom fishing Groupers and Sanddab so far due to it's 36.2oz weight.

Also below are my reels for the overnight ~ 2 1/2 day tuna trip.
I have first four reels for school sized Tuna and plan to buy one more either Talica16 II or Torsa 16.
Torsa 16 spec. looks good & strong but more expensive
Any recommendation?? Thank you.


#1. Lexa300 PWR (11.3oz) - 20# (20# Topshot with 50# spectra back up)
#2. Sealine-X SL-X30SHA (17.1oz) - 30# (30# Mono)
#3. Talica10 II (18.6oz) - 30# (30# Topshot with 65# spectra back up)
#4. TLD20 II (36.2oz) - 40# (40# Topshot with 65# spectra back up)


Talica16 II (26.5oz)- 50# (50# Topshot with 80# spectra back up)
Torsa 16 (29.1oz) - 50# (50# Topshot with 80# spectra back up)

MFB

Hi Bruce,

Yes, it is one of Alan's handles and handle grips. Just email or pm Alan to order parts and watch out for that handle spring. :)

Rgds

Mark
No man can lose what he never had.
                                                   Isaac Walton

CaptDavDavis01

This can also be used as a guide for beast master 12/20 and 20/50 reels.   I just cleaned and rebearinged my 20/50's, I think the only part that it different is the clicker. I say think because I didn't pay a lot of mind to it- clean, grease and go.

The 12/20 is the tld 20 2spd, the 20/50 is the tld30 2 spd.

And for the guys who are looking for an aluminum frame, the beastmaster frame is aluminum...and it already has the carbon fiber drag. Might stumble across one for a good price.

erikpowell

I can't say for sure, but I'll BET the Tib frame upgrade & side plate would add more than a few ounces to that reel.
It's gotta be heavier.

Bruce, I wouldn't call it "Rated" for 80#, but it's definitely strong enough... I have wrestled up 60-70kg Yellowfin with my 20 2sp...
A 9/0 Senator is a much better tool for that job though, even with just single speed  ;D ;D

brucechoi

Thanks erikpowell,

I will give it a try for 40# and up for the Tuna.

I'm not familiar with beast master series but thank you CaptDavDavis01

steelfish

is the shimano triton beastmaster 12/30 II be on the same league of the TLD II?

this triton beastmaster 12/30 feels very strong and TLD are a lot lighter but I havent opened a TLD II yet
The Baja Guy

MarkT

Yes, the Beastmasters preceeded the TLD's.
When I was your age Pluto was a planet!

ijlal

I received a TLD30A Two Speed reel for servicing that was running very hard with drag engaged (while cranking.)

It is a reel that looks new... the insides show no evidence of corrosion, even the main bearing looks clean, apart from the grease in it.

I am baffled that 3 out of the 4 bearings turn out to be completely jammed. I can't make them move even a few microns!

Are the bearings completely destroyed? What could be the cause of it? Have they been destroyed by too much axial load? Has someone tried to tighten the preset drag knob with the drag already engaged? I would be thankful for an explanation as to what could have caused this.

Needless to say this reel is made in Malaysia.
I live 'fishing'!

Tightlines667

Bearings fail due to excessive side loads, inadequate lubrication, introduction of foreign material, and through normal wear.  It's tough to say exactly why the bearings in your customer's reel failed.  It was likely a combination of the above.  Though I suspect the main culprit is too much time between service intervals.  If the reel was fished beyond manufacturer specifications this can certainly contribute to failure.  If you have a newer model with the ARB bearings, be aware that they have balls that are much harder, and slightly tighter tolerances then standard SS Abec 5 bearings.  These are much smoother when new, but in my personal expience, I have found they do not wear well.  Because the balls are coated in hard ceramic, they wear very little, and will actually chip, crack, or develop flat spots (sometimes on a microscopic level).  This leads to the binding failure you are witnessing.  Clean the reel up, replace the bearings, and make sure nonspool bearings are fully packed with grease, and spool bearings have been adequetly lubed with corrosion X, TSI 301, or the like.
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

alantani

the bearings were likely installed dry.  that is probably why they corroded so quickly. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

ijlal

Quote from: Tightlines666 on September 06, 2015, 10:15:43 PM
Bearings fail due to excessive side loads, inadequate lubrication, introduction of foreign material, and through normal wear.  It's tough to say exactly why the bearings in your customer's reel failed.  It was likely a combination of the above.  Though I suspect the main culprit is too much time between service intervals.  If the reel was fished beyond manufacturer specifications this can certainly contribute to failure.  If you have a newer model with the ARB bearings, be aware that they have balls that are much harder, and slightly tighter tolerances then standard SS Abec 5 bearings.  These are much smoother when new, but in my personal expience, I have found they do not wear well.  Because the balls are coated in hard ceramic, they wear very little, and will actually chip, crack, or develop flat spots (sometimes on a microscopic level).  This leads to the binding failure you are witnessing.  Clean the reel up, replace the bearings, and make sure nonspool bearings are fully packed with grease, and spool bearings have been adequetly lubed with corrosion X, TSI 301, or the like.

Thank you Tightlines666, I think you got it right!

Quote from: alantani on September 07, 2015, 12:48:06 AM
the bearings were likely installed dry.  that is probably why they corroded so quickly. 

Thanks Alan!

I had no option but to clean the bearings with gas; it took some effort to get them rolling again. I oiled the spool bearings and filled with grease on the sides that were to face away from the spool. I thoroughly stuffed the main and the drag plate bearing with Penn Reel Grease, greased the Carbontex drag washer with Cal's, shimmed the drag plate with masking tape, Alan's way, grease the other parts with Penn grease, and finally the reel is usable once more. The bearings are no longer as smooth as they should be, but fortunately they were still rust free, and had not developed any play.  ;D

PS. Alan, I still have at least half the Cal's Grease you so kindly sent, and it makes me remember you every time I use it! God bless!
I live 'fishing'!

alantani

my pleasure.  anything else you need, let me know.   ;D
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!