Powder Paint Questions

[Squidder Bidder]

So, I have acquired a good number of 10 oz diamond jigs at a great price. My intention is to remove the treble hooks and re-rig them for jigging over reefs and wrecks for lunker seabass.

The depths at which I will be fishing in this style begin at 65-70 feet and get deeper.

So at those depths the chrome isn't really effective, at least according to a semi-scientific study performed by John Skinner with small diamond jigs over weakfish. Glow and even black finishes way outfished the chrome finish, presumably because not much light gets down there, especially in inshore waters with various sediments and such mucking it up.

So I have Pro-tec Powder paints some in glow colors, which I would be using to coat over the chromed finish after heating the diamond jigs either in a toaster oven or with a heat gun.

Does anyone have any experience with these powder paints, or doing something along these lines? Do you see any major flaws in this procedure? I don't see the value in rouging up the surface prior to applying the powder paint, because it is the heat which causes the powder to adhere. Also, it may be a good idea to wipe the jigs down with rubbing alcohol to remove any residue from the surface.

I'm all ears.

[pjstevko]

I picked up a big container of black powder paint from Harbor Freight and it's worked well on the 16oz sinkers I coated. 

My best advice is to dip into the powder quickly. I dipped the sinker directly into the powder container as the majority of the sinker would get covered. After you pull it out of the powder use a heat gun and heat the jig to smooth out the coating.

Be sure to bake the powder coated jig in the toaster oven after you dip it to bake on the paint.

Here's the sinker I did

[Brewcrafter]

Our resident lure color/powder coat/3D printer guru Jurelometer will be along shortly; I know on an earlier Saturday Zoom Call he appeared to have something like 40 different colors and types of powder he was trying to organize. - john

[jurelometer]

Join us on the Zoom today, and we can talk about it live:

https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,31840.0.html

All members are welcome!  Every Saturday, -two time slots.

Not an expert, but to answer your questions, powder sticks much better if there are nooks and crannies on the surface for the powder to melt into as it crosslinks.  This provides a mechanical bond to the substrate.  Parts are  often sand blasted prior to coating to provide  a "toothy" surface.

Powder over chrome is a bit tricky. If it is in good shape, you can roughen with sandpaper and coat away.  If the chrome is coming off the part in places, it is best to try to remove all of it.

They don't recommend using the same oven you cook your food in for prepping parts and curing powder coats.  If you have an oven dedicated for powder coating, you can heat the part in there before dipping.  Should heat more evenly than a torch on larger jigs.

I normally clean metal parts with simple green and water.  Alcohol should work.  For folks coating lead objects, if the lead has oxidized (no longer shiny) the powder is not supposed to stick as well.  Some vinegar before washing will remove the oxidation.

From my scuba diving days, chrome was still flashing in 70 feet or so where the visibility was good enough for rec diving.  Whether your target species likes that big flash is another question.

Hope this helps.

-J