Mono to Braid/Dacron Knot?

[jurelometer]

I don't know why the RP (AKA, Alberto, John  Collins) knot is not getting more love here, especially for a quick tie.  It is very easy and fast to tie. It is a very slim knot that when trimmed properly  passes through guides well enough for casting.  So well, that I never bother with an FG. Fine for drop jigging too.  It is plenty reliable- it is a popular top shot to backing knot with the long range crowd chasing jumbo tuna.

Another key point with knot selection is that you want to manage the points of failure in your system.  There are better and worse places to break off, and there is an ideal breaking load that may be less than the line capacity.  If I am fishing fairly light tackle with heavier braid and leader for abrasion purposes, the last thing that I want is a 100% knot that makes it hard to break off when necessary, and when it does break, will be some random location on the braid, since GSP braid does not usually have uniform breaking strength like mono.

I definitely don't want my braid to mono leader/topshot connection to be as strong or stronger than the braid.  The RP knot comes in about 70% of the braid very consistently for me which is perfect. I want to sacrifice the mono, and leave the braid on the reel and not on the bottom.

There are still places for 100% knots.  For example, I prefer the strongest knot available to attach a $120 fly line to backing. But I think we get too caught up in trying to get as close as we can to 100% knots in way too many situations.

-J

[MarkT]

I don't know why the RP (AKA, Alberto, John  Collins) knot is not getting more love here, especially for a quick tie.  It is very easy and fast to tie. It is a very slim knot that when trimmed properly  passes through guides well enough for casting.  So well, that I never bother with an FG. Fine for drop jigging too.  It is plenty reliable- it is a popular top shot to backing knot with the long range crowd chasing jumbo tuna.

Another key point with knot selection is that you want to manage the points of failure in your system.  There are better and worse places to break off, and there is an ideal breaking load that may be less than the line capacity.  If I am fishing fairly light tackle with heavier braid and leader for abrasion purposes, the last thing that I want is a 100% knot that makes it hard to break off when necessary, and when it does break, will be some random location on the braid, since GSP braid does not usually have uniform breaking strength like mono.

I definitely don't want my braid to mono leader/topshot connection to be as strong or stronger than the braid.  The RP knot comes in about 70% of the braid very consistently for me which is perfect. I want to sacrifice the mono, and leave the braid on the reel and not on the bottom.

There are still places for 100% knots.  For example, I prefer the strongest knot available to attach a $120 fly line to backing. But I think we get too caught up in trying to get as close as we can to 100% knots in way too many situations.

-J

No need for a 100% knot when fishing with 30% drag.

[GrowleyMonster]

Backing to main line, I go with a double uni, number of turns on each side depending on relative line size. Main line to shock leader, FG is very slightly less bulky but I use a single uni, plenty of turns, of the main line around the shocker, make a slight knob in the shocker with a hot lighter or cigar or soldering iron or stove grate, and with the uni almost cinched down all the way tight, I slide it down right down to the knob and then pull the uni dead tight. Then I take a piece of light line and make a free standing uni around the main line and slide it down to the join, so it sort of streamlines the knot from that side, too. I have never had this pull out. Braid to mono, or braid to braid. 20lb to 200 lb shock leader, or 40 to 80, whatever. Equal diameter, I use a normal double uni. I refresh that knot every fishing day because the last turn or two get beat up pretty good by the guides. I don't like to uni the shock leader around the main line because of the bulk.

So the entire strength of your connection is the melted knob on the end of the leader?

No. The melt is just to help place it right at the end. Without the knob, it still holds though it could creep down a couple thousandths from plastic deformation, particularly if mono is involved. Try it for yourself. Tie on to a tree or something and see if you can make it slip before you trust it on a fish. That's what I did. If you snug down the single uni and use enough turns, it isn't going anywhere anytime soon. I have never had one pull out.

[JasonGotaProblem]

I don't know why the RP (AKA, Alberto, John  Collins) knot is not getting more love here, especially for a quick tie.

It definitely got love on the first page. The shortcoming of an Alberto is if you want a long leader whose attachment may end up in the spool. They cast like crap. They cast much better when well tied and trimmed. But they still cast like crap.

There was a time when a spool of flouro was very expensive in my eyes. I was fishing way more on a budget then. And I would tie my weakest knot (a 7-turn "fisherman's knot") at the leader/hook connection. That way when I snagged a rock i would only lose the hook. And frankly I feel I should do that when using an FG knot. Last weekend I hooked the bottom with a very long FG knot and a crimped on hook to my 80# leader on 40# braid. Well thankfully the hook bent before the braid broke. But had it been an Alberto that would definitely have been the failure point.

[alantani]

I don't know why the RP (AKA, Alberto, John  Collins) knot is not getting more love here, especially for a quick tie. 
-J

for me, the issue is casting.  with the RP/collins/alberto knots, the tag end of the mono will cut your fingers with 10 yards of fluoro on a cast.  for bass guys, the tag under a load can pop out the ceramic insert of the line leveler.  with the topy pena, the mono or fluoro tag causes problems on the return.  less trouble tearing up my fingers. 

[jurelometer]

I Don

I don't know why the RP (AKA, Alberto, John  Collins) knot is not getting more love here, especially for a quick tie.

It definitely got love on the first page. The shortcoming of an Alberto is if you want a long leader whose attachment may end up in the spool. They cast like crap. They cast much better when well tied and trimmed. But they still cast like crap.

There was a time when a spool of flouro was very expensive in my eyes. I was fishing way more on a budget then. And I would tie my weakest knot (a 7-turn "fisherman's knot") at the leader/hook connection. That way when I snagged a rock i would only lose the hook. And frankly I feel I should do that when using an FG knot. Last weekend I hooked the bottom with a very long FG knot and a crimped on hook to my 80# leader on 40# braid. Well thankfully the hook bent before the braid broke. But had it been an Alberto that would definitely have been the failure point.

Agree. Don't need to crimp 80 to make a loop. Knot choice will allow you to select a breaking strength. A perfection loop will give you 60% or a bit more, and if you want to get into the 90s, a Kreh Nonslip loop or a San Diego that is not cinched all the way to the hook (thanks to Mark T for this tip). I quit on crimping mono awhile back.  I don't go over 80 on leader nowadays, and feel pretty comfortable knotting mono even at 120.

Back to the braid/mono:  The Alberto/RP mono tag needs to be trimmed closer than most folk seem to be willing to go. If this knot does slip, more tag gets exposed, so there is no point in leaving a little extra for safety.  Also snug it with a sudden snap/ jerk, so that it does not finish seating while you are fishing it, exposing more tag.  Casts fine for me off the spool, but I am not thumbing the spool when the knot is going out.

I don't know why the RP (AKA, Alberto, John  Collins) knot is not getting more love here, especially for a quick tie. 
-J

for me, the issue is casting.  with the RP/collins/alberto knots, the tag end of the mono will cut your fingers with 10 yards of fluoro on a cast.  for bass guys, the tag under a load can pop out the ceramic insert of the line leveler.  with the topy pena, the mono or fluoro tag causes problems on the return.  less trouble tearing up my fingers. 

Here is 65 lb braid to 60 lb mono  RP knot after a bunch of fish.  I just tried to cut myself with it but couldn't get a scratch.  And it runs  right through size 6 tip and size 7 runners under load in both directions. But I will concede that I would be less enthused casting this knot past my thumb  on the spool or through one of those bass style ceramic levelwind inserts, especially with thicker leader. At that point, maybe wished I had spent more time getting comfortable with the FG style.

The modified Peña is so knobby that it is unsuitable for casting with smaller guides, although I found it possible but a bit unpleasant with the larger guide sizes  found on the type of rods that would typically be used for casting irons on a long ranger.

You can also put a spot of flex UV to smooth out the tag end of the RP (I like Loon Knot Sense), but as a minimalist, I don't bother.

I would argue that as the line size and rod guide size increases, the drawbacks of the modified Peña decreases.  And vice-versa.

-J