Penn 210 drag modifying questions.

[Lock45]

I have collected together a few Penn 210 reels. I see that the 210 is a step up from the 209 in both gear ratio and drag size. I notice that some stainless steel gear sleeves are available for other Penn reels. These SS sleeves allow for the addition of an extra drag washer and steel to be added to the stack. This is because the flat on the sleeve is machined all the way down to the ratchet. Is there such a sleeve that will fit the 210? If there is not a stainless steel custom sleeve available for the 210, has anyone had success with machining a stock brass sleeve to extend the flat down to the ratchet allowing for more drag washers to be installed?
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[Keta]

The 210 uses a 98-505 gearsleve, the same as a Jigmaster.

[Gfish]

Yeah. Mystic Penn Parts has 98-505 stainless steel gear sleeves by 2 different vendors; Pro-Challenger and Cortez Classics. These'll fit the 210. However, they are a fine thread sleeve for the drag star so you'ed also need a 10-505 star.
Look-up the "Mag tuned" 210(no magnet in the 210, only in the 10, false advertising)in the conventional section of the reel parts for sale.
Let us know how it goes, I have one of these.

[Keta]

My 210 came with the fine threaded 98-505 gearsleve and 10-505 star.

[Gfish]

You're right! I looked at mine and I had the ss gear sleeve, so I musta changed it out. I have wondered for awhile now where that brass 98-505 in my parts stash came from...

[Lock45]

Is there a way to increase the nunmber of drag washers in the 210 reels?

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[jurelometer]

The value  of the stainless gear sleeve is primarily to inhibit the top of the gear sleeve from rounding offf at the handle junction when you wind under heavier load. This is the first point of failure for classic Penn reels with this design.  The existing drag stack is capable of handling more load than the reel can handle.  Using a high temp grease with PTFE (Super Lube, Cal's, etc) or any of the greases from the reel manufacturers listed for drag use on the carbon fiber washers will give you more useful drag by virtue of being smoother.

Here is a useful thread on the 210:
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=6877.0

-J

[Lock45]

I was thinking about machining the brass gear sleeve flat all the way down to the ratchet gear. It seems like that would allow me to add a drag washer and metal washer fitted to the sleeve for extra dragt. Not to increase the drag but to add to the drag washer area and smooth it out even more than stock. Think this makes any sense? I will be using stock HT-100 carbon fiber washers and probably Penn standard stainless washers. Wondering if all this would still fit.

[day0ne]

That won't do anything for the drag. There needs to be an odd number of drag washers for it to work.  If you machined it down and added a keyed washer set, it would just sit in the gear taking up space. Here is a discussion about this:

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=32349.0

[Brewcrafter]

I was thinking about machining the brass gear sleeve flat all the way down to the ratchet gear. It seems like that would allow me to add a drag washer and metal washer fitted to the sleeve for extra dragt. Not to increase the drag but to add to the drag washer area and smooth it out even more than stock. Think this makes any sense? I will be using stock HT-100 carbon fiber washers and probably Penn standard stainless washers. Wondering if all this would still fit.

You definitely don't want to do that.  Now as you will find from zillions of different threads here - our reels are fairly "low load" items but...your gear rides on that area that is 100% round.  By machining the flats all the way to the ratchet you will not be gaining anything in the drag/washer space arena as noted above, and you will also reduce the contact/bearing surface that the gear rides on pretty substantially (not sitting at the bench but I am going to to guess that reduces surface area by at least 30%?)  Will it cause gear instability or sleeve wear?  Probably not but I still wouldn't do it. - john

[jurelometer]

Agree with John.

 The "mechanically correct" gear to gear sleeve surface should be flat with something like a thrust bearing between.  The priority  has to be to keep the gear teeth aligned with the shaft.  The first point of load failure with these reels is the gear sleeve to handle junction rounding off.  The second is gears winding out of alignment and shredding teeth.  Customizing the drag at the expense of maintaining alignment is going backwards IMHO. Good clean/flat metal washers and greased CF is plenty smooth.

But there is a precedent for what you are suggesting. There is a another brand with a gear sleeve and star drag reel design with drag stacks on both sides of the main gear, but I see it as more of a gimmick to capitalize on the existing marketing for their dual disk lever drag reels.  I think that they later updated the reel to have a ball bearing inside the main gear.  Hmmm, I  wonder why? .../snark

—J

[Gfish]

There is a system or two out there for a 5 + 1 (5 - C-Tex, + 5 - thin metal washers + 1 - under-gear delrin) drag arrangement for Jigmaster/210 main gear. Bryan Young had one, was available on the Mystic Pennpartssite under Conventional reels, Jigmaster 500.

[Gfish]

Here's mine in a Jiggy 501, completely aftermarket. Gears; 4.8:1 from Pro Challenger,  washers from a Bryan Young Kit, side-plates from Cortez Classic. Note that it has one of those cool tail-plate finger adjustable bearing caps, wish I could find more of those.

[Swami805]

Doesn't a 210 have a level wind? That would be a limiting factor in how much drag it's going to handle

[Gfish]

Yeah, but that 5x5 drag is soooo smooth.