A collection of failures

[oldmanjoe]

   Welcome to the site .   Very nice work , you did on that reel .
 I see that the casting was missing on the rotor , and has led you down this path .���    Believe it will still work with the stock trip lever and bail .   Have some pictures and you can see the change in size of the casting .

      Personally if I did a manual pickup , I would clean off the other side of the rotor for a clean look .   You can use the stock arm and make one .  You can file the rotor casting a little so the stock arm and screw will stay in place when tightened up .
 
     

[Metallkopf]

@foakes, thanks man that was the info I needed, so I can take the old part measurements to design a new one.

@Milan s
It's a white lithium grease bought years ago for bicycle bearings, I don't know the name or exact type, but it's very tacky. In fact it seems a bit too stiff for the worm gear, now I cleaned everything and put it back together with some drops of gear oil only and its much smoother operating like this.

@oldmanjoe, thanks for welcoming, nice to meet you
Yes, actually it's this missing reinforcement part of the casting and I don't like the bail system for not being able to be closed manually with controlled force in an easy movement like on a later 5001. 
I left the other side intact not sure if it could need a counter weight in this position later, also im able to build it back to the original bail system if needed sometime.
The tungsten carbide line roller made some grooves on the old pin it rides on, so for best function it's time to make a new lever with a pin that could be changed if worn out.

That finessa looks crazy, did you use polycarbonate for these side plates? If  it would be possible to seal up the sides, bushing and ar system, you could fill it up halfway with some transparent oil ... 

[Metallkopf]

I scored this quick finessa from 'kleinanzeigen' for like 5€, seems it's one of the first models 280 as it has some special details compared to the 285 I also have here.
The whole reel as recieved, note it's the round knob ar lever like on some early 270series and the crank arm is flattened not round like the later ones.




Someone must have loved this reel so the bail was soldered to it when the retainer broke. The inside looks like the original factory grease was thinned with something else years ago to keep it going but never removed or cleaned up. The tiny screw that pins the shaft to the oscillating lever was halfway out and left a deep mark rubbing the sideplate. All screws are brass in this model.





I have not seen this type of finessa spool before with the upper part of lower braking plate fitting into the spool.
For a last, the screw that is also the nub that triggers the bail mechanism is round and slotted for a special screwdriver




Enjoy your weekend 

[foakes]

Let me know what parts you might need, Lauer —-

Glad to send them out.

That is a 1st version DQ Finessa 280 from about 1954.

There were (4) versions of the Finessa 330 sized reels over a 9 year run —- and some other minor variations between version changes.

Production stopped in '63 —- when the complete 7 reel series came out featuring the Microlite 110 through the large 550.

110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, 550.

Best, Fred

[oldmanjoe]

  Wow that reel needs some work ,looks like a new bail assembly needed.     Does the bail work , looks like the screw is loose to make it work    After looking back at the picture I see the bail wire is bent and is not closing properly                    I have never see a spool like that , but looks like some one put the click up side down on the shaft .   Then cut the spool pocket .    Nice size gouge in the side plate .       I did see one that came through the side plate on ebay .

        I just realized that is the early version 280 and that is why the spool pocket and click gear is the way it is with the screw on drag nut ...

[Metallkopf]

I looked deep into this German collectors homepage and found some additional information.

http://www.saschas-sammler-homepage.de/info-finessa-280-1958.html

http://www.saschas-sammler-homepage.de/info-finessa.html

To my surprise I also found a serial number on the frame of the reel that I'm barely able to see but it's there. It's 138895 which dates back to 1958 being the year of production according to this homepage. The deep indentation in the middle of the reels foot also dates to 57/58.




@foakes I've sent out a pm to you with some part requests to complete several of my reels, thank you in advance

[foakes]

Got it!  We just returned from Thanksgiving over at the Coast in Cayucos yesterday.

Please PM me your complete mailing information and I will get the order shipped out in a day or two.

Best, Fred

[Metallkopf]

Got it!  We just returned from Thanksgiving over at the Coast in Cayucos yesterday.

Please PM me your complete mailing information and I will get the order shipped out in a day or two.

Best, Fred

Thank you Fred, I can't wait to get it in my hands

It already arrived at Frankfurt international airport this morning, should be here tomorrow. To my amusement this shipment is way faster than our local post office, must be the super urgent D.A.M. parts coming back to Germany 

This weekend I cleaned and powdercoated a quick 440 for a good friend as his Xmas surprise. The coating got better, I pre baked the sandblasted parts @270°c for almost an hour and there was a big amount of oil offgassing from the casings and bushings. The color is what it is there was chrome and this cherry red to choose from. The chrome looked great but scratches like crazy..
The reel is still lacking a handle and the spool needs to be cleaned and polished up.





I also made the handle knob for the quick super from a piece of olive wood, it's primitive like the original but smooth and silent with a drop of oil.

[foakes]

Very nice work!

Best, Fred

[Brewcrafter]

The graining in that knob is very pretty! - john

[Milan S]

Metallkopf,

Nice job!

Are you planning on putting ball bearings in that knob?

[Metallkopf]

Thanks guys, was some hours fine sanding the knob in front of the TV until it got pretty like that. Before this one I made another but misaligned the hole when drilling it.
Milan, I like the idea to put bearings in that knob but it'll be quite an adventurous task for me to machine a stainless steel shaft in matching dimensions with my current lathe skills.
Let's see where it ends...

[JasonGotaProblem]

Great job. I tend to cannibalize other knobs. Ones with foam grips are easy to take the foam off and make cork grips.

[Milan S]

Milan, I like the idea to put bearings in that knob but it'll be quite an adventurous task for me to machine a stainless steel shaft in matching dimensions with my current lathe skills.
Let's see where it ends...

If you leave the knob without bearings, the wood will breathe under the influence of oil. It absorbs it and dries out. All tolerances will change and gaps will appear or there will be tightening and difficult rotation. My recommendation is that you try to design a construction with two ball bearings.

[jurelometer]

You can also just press in  in a plain bearing (what folk here call bushings). The oilite bronzes  are nice, but you could also use Delrin plastic.  Many knobs are made from delrin without any bushings or bearings at all.  The other poster is correct that swelling is hard to prevent in wood knobs, regaardles of the finish

I am not a fan of ball bearings in knobs, as they are far too exposed to corrosion, and I have yet to meet a fisherman that could wind at 20,000+ RPMs to take advantage of ball bearings

Good call on skipping the chrome powder coat.  I haven't come across one that lasts very long with UV exposure, so you have to also add a clear coat, which changes the nice chrome-like appearance to more like silver paint.  But they are getting better all the time.

Curious  about the long bake time.  All of  the epoxy/urethane/polyurethane powders that I have used do not require more than 10-12 minutes at temps around 200c. Once they melt enough to cross-link, they don't get stronger, and the clock is starting to work against you.  A shorter bake time is also nicer on the impregnated bronze bearings, and you are less likely to get out gassing of any residual impurities  that didn't make it out in your pre-bake. 

Thanks for sharing.  Your paint job came out nice!

-J