Solid core braid to hollow core braid connection

[day0ne]

A dynamometer or "dyno" is a device for simultaneously measuring the torque and rotational speed (RPM) of an engine, motor or other rotating prime mover so that its instantaneous power may be calculated and usually displayed by the dynamometer itself as kW or bhp. I'm not sure what you are referring to, maybe a scale.

How strong is a Bimini?  That would be the weak link on a L2L.
 I quit using glue over 20 years ago..

I always heard a Bimini was a 100% knot....

Only if tied correctly. Bimini's are very easy to tie incorrectly, and very hard to tie correctly. In fact, I read somewhere that most are tied incorrectly.

[Cor]

Double uni, tested on large tuna. 

Tying or splicing a loop in the hollow and tying a loop in the solid then connecting them with a double or triple catspaw is strong and i use the L2L for my wind-on topshots, tested up to a 338# bluefin.

Jerry brown would slide solid into the hollow several feet and tie a overhand knot ehere the solid interd the hollow.

I fished 50lb solid to 80lb GB hollow on my leader for many years and tried many different knots, even glue all worked as well as expected, except the glueing was not great, the solid is too thin.   Here guys sew solid to solid which works pretty good.

The issue here is always casting a knot though the guides.

[Patudo]

Here guys sew solid to solid which works pretty good.

I'd be interested in hearing more about this.  Not a connection I'll likely use myself, but interesting to see how it's done. 

[mbg60]

For people who have a lot of solid braid and have it already on their reels, splicing a loop made with hollow braid onto the end of your solid braid will save you money and also allow you to utilize wind on leaders. Splicing the solid into the hollow isn't too difficult with the correct tools and knowledge.  There are many videos available on how to do this.

[oc1]

Here guys sew solid to solid which works pretty good.

I'd be interested in hearing more about this.  Not a connection I'll likely use myself, but interesting to see how it's done. 

I've done it with heavier line for other applications.  Just a sewing needle and nylon thread going back and forth through both lines.  I use Tex 70 nylon.  Trusting sewing thread to carry a heavy load makes a person queasy so you will naturally go back and forth a LOT.   You can go round-and-round on the ends to make it extra smooth going over or through something.

[Cor]

Here guys sew solid to solid which works pretty good.

I'd be interested in hearing more about this.  Not a connection I'll likely use myself, but interesting to see how it's done. 

No hi tech involved!

I have not read this, but seems to explain how to.  https://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=10139.0

My own experience is satisfactory, but very hard on old eyes.   The reason behind it is our constant need to cast and cast well.   This causes little problem with knots passing through guides, even the chaps that use Spinning reels do it.

I have seen someone sitting next to the ocean with a needle and making a join like that, I would not attempt do it!

[jurelometer]

Here guys sew solid to solid which works pretty good.

I'd be interested in hearing more about this.  Not a connection I'll likely use myself, but interesting to see how it's done. 

No hi tech involved!

I have not read this, but seems to explain how to.  https://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=10139.0

My own experience is satisfactory, but very hard on old eyes.  The reason behind it is our constant need to cast and cast well.  This causes little problem with knots passing through guides, even the chaps that use Spinning reels do it.

I have seen someone sitting next to the ocean with a needle and making a join like that, I would not attempt do it!

Interesting!

Here is a video of the technique, but used to make loops

Not excited  about the exposed tag, since tension on the tag can temporarily loosen the grip. Maybe not a big deal with splicing two lines, but on a loop to loop, the loop connection can become uncentered causing the loop to pull out. 

I assume that if one of  the lines is hollow, the tag  (in the solid braid) could get tucked inside of the hollow.  And maybe serve the hollow braid end to keep it from catching on the guides, loosening the lock. 

-J

[Patudo]

Fascinating.  Thank you, gentlemen. 

[Cor]

Dynema and Spectra is funny stuff besides being very slippery which is not good for knots, it does cause unexpected events, like unexplainable breakages.   I use it on one of my reels, like it because it is so strong but hate it for most other reasons.

I found that most knots normally used on mono work just as well on braid, maybe needs a few extra loops but if pulled very tight it last a long time.   I am contradicting what most say.

The guys with spinning reels won't use mono and I agree they have little trouble with braid other than wind knots. 

I regularly take my reel out in my dead end street and pull it to see that it does not break and have quite a few times found that braid just parts with little pressure.   No apparent reason.    But what is stranger is when that happens it does it at at a few other places on the line as well.    My only explanation is that I may have heated the line with friction from braking with my thumb, for some reason.

[oc1]

I've had Spectra braid break for no apparent reason too.  It's happened twice over three decades.  PowerPro brand.  I suspect the problem is factory defects because it breaks somewhere in the middle instead of at the worn end section.  But still, I'd never go back to Nylon with its own set of problems.

[Keta]

I've had Spectra braid break for no apparent reason too.  It's happened twice over three decades.  PowerPro brand.  I suspect the problem is factory defects because it breaks somewhere in the middle instead of at the worn end section.  But still, I'd never go back to Nylon with its own set of problems.

Several years ago there was counterfeit Power Pro being sold online, you might have got some of it.

[jurelometer]

A couple or three things on braid:

1.  I do think that it is inconsistent.  When I am testing absolute knot strength, I will occasionally get a failure on the mainline way from the knot, but then will retie and now will get a failure at the knot at a higher load than the previous mainline break.  The mainline break will still be above the listed breaking strength.  Maybe one of the reasons that nominal braid breaking strength tends to be much lower than actual. This covers for uneven breaking strength.

This is with several different brands from reputable suppliers.

2.  The molecular arrangement that makes braid fibers extreme strong along the fiber, make them significantly weaker and brittle across the fiber, especially for compressive loads.  So damage from some sort of kink or abrasion may occur at a lower load than we expect.

3.  On my casting reels, I have worn out the first 30' or so of braid, losing more than half of the breaking strength, but the line looks only a tiny bit fuzzy.  I have wondered if this is from shock loads from the cast causing cross load on one braided fiber against another. It is also possible that it is the cumulative effect of line impact on the guide frames.  Or some combination of the two.

There is a lot of talk about line to guide friction, but I don't think this is a likely culprit, as the coefficient of friction of UHMWPE on ceramic rings is ridiculously low, and the compressive loads pushing the line against the guide ring during the cast is tiny.

Braid is simply a more complex product than nylon monofilament. The causes of damage or less intuitive, and wear is sometimes less visibly obvious.

My $0.02

-J

[mbg60]

Dynema and Spectra is funny stuff besides being very slippery which is not good for knots, it does cause unexpected events, like unexplainable breakages.   I use it on one of my reels, like it because it is so strong but hate it for most other reasons.

I found that most knots normally used on mono work just as well on braid, maybe needs a few extra loops but if pulled very tight it last a long time.   I am contradicting what most say.

The guys with spinning reels won't use mono and I agree they have little trouble with braid other than wind knots. 

I regularly take my reel out in my dead end street and pull it to see that it does not break and have quite a few times found that braid just parts with little pressure.   No apparent reason.    But what is stranger is when that happens it does it at at a few other places on the line as well.    My only explanation is that I may have heated the line with friction from braking with my thumb, for some reason.

I haven't had any strange break offs with braid except in the very early years, when Spiderwire was the "best thing" out there.  If you stick with the more established line manufacturers I don't think you'll have problems.  If you try the cheap route and buy "Brand X" you might get what you pay for.

A couple or three things on braid:

1.  I do think that it is inconsistent.  When I am testing absolute knot strength, I will occasionally get a failure on the mainline way from the knot, but then will retie and now will get a failure at the knot at a higher load than the previous mainline break.  The mainline break will still be above the listed breaking strength.  Maybe one of the reasons that nominal braid breaking strength tends to be much lower than actual. This covers for uneven breaking strength.

This is with several different brands from reputable suppliers.

2.  The molecular arrangement that makes braid fibers extreme strong along the fiber, make them significantly weaker and brittle across the fiber, especially for compressive loads.  So damage from some sort of kink or abrasion may occur at a lower load than we expect.

3.  On my casting reels, I have worn out the first 30' or so of braid, losing more than half of the breaking strength, but the line looks only a tiny bit fuzzy.  I have wondered if this is from shock loads from the cast causing cross load on one braided fiber against another. It is also possible that it is the cumulative effect of line impact on the guide frames.  Or some combination of the two.

There is a lot of talk about line to guide friction, but I don't think this is a likely culprit, as the coefficient of friction of UHMWPE on ceramic rings is ridiculously low, and the compressive loads pushing the line against the guide ring during the cast is tiny.

Braid is simply a more complex product than nylon monofilament. The causes of damage or less intuitive, and wear is sometimes less visibly obvious.

My $0.02

-J

I agree.  My use of hollow braid connected to a wind on leader via a L2L connection has worked well for me casting from the shoreline using spinning reels.  Conventional reels too. When my wind on leader gets funky i just cut it off and attach a new one.  Every so often I check my main line loop for any visible inconsistencies and, if needed,splice another loop into the main line  and reattach a new wind on leader. Unfortunately, I'm not capable of testing my main lines but the same hollow core has been on my reels for quite a few years now without problems. 

[oc1]

The best thing about Spectra is its lack of stretch.  The lack of stretch provides better sensitivity.