Daiwa Lexa 400 PW problem with the cross pin on the spool shaft

[steelfish]

I dont know how this happened and even the owner dont have an idea what could cause this problem with the cross pin, check the pictures, that pin is way too bent downwards and also kinda deformed.
I know I cannot order just the pin but it will be pretty expensive to order the whole spool just for this, so, my plan is to try to bend it back and take it out from the shaft and put a new one, now the problem will be find a cross pin of the same diameter and size of this one.

if I dont have luck finding a replacement I will check if the pin once is straightened "feels" strong enought to be installed back in the shaft again.

as you can see the pinion doesnt bit enought meat of the cross pin and when you apply drag and pull line the pin jumps outta the pinion repeatedly with an ugly sound 

[quang tran]

look like someone knock the pin out without proffer tool to change bearings

[Brewcrafter]

I hsve no idea how that got mangled.  But I do know trying to straighten and reuse it is a last resort.  Speaking generally, once metal gets formed/deformed, it now (even if you rostore it to its original shape) its going to be likely to fail even easier.  I say this a lot on the forum, but before you McMaster-Carr or McFaddendale the local Ace or True Value have a LOT of oddball stuff in drawers for pennies, some of which is actually Stainless or Tool grade if you are lucky. - john

[boon]

A small piece of Tig filler rod might work as a replacement, if you can find it in the right diameter. Might be too soft though. Finding something suitable in stainless steel could be a problem.

[quang tran]

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805603137152.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.16.12c7PtrfPtrfMG&aem_p4p_detail=202509221537293042520538220650004509406&algo_pvid=658836ef-79ba-465b-8d8a-296307245c2d&algo_exp_id=658836ef-79ba-465b-8d8a-296307245c2d-15&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22227%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21USD%215.76%215.76%21%21%2140.76%2140.76%21%402101d9ee17585806498277801e3be1%2112000034361855914%21sea%21US%21129953639%21X%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3Adf3c97d3%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=r2gqEP1uyC5L&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005005789451904%7C_p_origin_prod%3A&search_p4p_id=202509221537293042520538220650004509406_4
I'm not sure what size of pin you need , I think 1.5 mm, You may also use same size drill bit for that job

[quang tran]

Just removed my Lexa 300 to check ,it's 1.5 mm pin .I think it should be same as Lexa 400

[steelfish]

But I do know trying to straighten and reuse it is a last resort.  Speaking generally, once metal gets formed/deformed, it now (even if you rostore it to its original shape) its going to be likely to fail even easier.

yep, I said that exact same words to the owner of the reel

I have some extra pins for the 113h SS sleeve, but pretty sure they are thicker

[Gfish]

Ali express from ?China? in q t's reference. I might go with his drill bit suggestion. Don't wanna heat it up too much when cutting. But what to cut with what?

[quang tran]

I use small cut off wheel ,just go slow . The pin I mention from China but it's 304 stainless steel , good material and all stainless steel from Europe as Germany came from China many years now .I use these pin to replace part for DQ reel ,Bicycle ,lawnmower ..like the pin from handle ,replace with stainless pin will never get problem it get rust ,save lots of work later on

[jurelometer]

It looks to me like the reel was thrown into gear with the drag set high. If the spool is moving fast, it is hard for the pinion to seat all the way down.  This can happen if you hook a big yellowtail from freespool with a high drag setting.  It probably can happen just casting a heavy iron and the reel accidently goes into gear as you launch the cast. 

It looks to me like there is some deformation on the pinion slot.  Looking at photos of Lexa 400 pinions online, I  would guess that you could need at least a new pinion as well.

https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=18045

https://www.offshoretacklerepair.com/product-page/260-2202-pinion-gear

The schematic has three key items for the spool assembly.  This could mean  that Daiwa has a private  internal part number for just the pin.  If you talk to Daiwa Parts directly, they might help you.

If you decide to get just the pin from a non-reel supplier- measure it with a good set of calipers.  the fit has to be exact. The pin stays in place from what is called an interference fit.  The part you are looking for is called a dowel pin.  They can be ordered right at your nominal 1.5mm or sized up or down in 0.01 mm increments.  Finding a strong alloy stainless pin in that size  could be tough, but it looks like the original wasn't a strong alloy either    So 18/8 or 316 stainless, or tough/hardened regular steel - your choice.

Dowel pins are used for things like aligning the halves of metal injection molds, so they are very straight and dimensionally precise.  And relatively cheap- usually around $10 for a bag of them -you will get anywhere between 5-50 per bag depending on the exact model.

Check out McMaster Carr as one supplier
 
-J

[Swami805]

I'm thinking fishing heavy braid, stiff rod and trying to stop something big from diving for cover. Flip the reel into gear from free spool and something had to give. Might try using a cut off piece of drill bit you have handy save the hassle of getting parts to Mexico. If you do order the pin from diawa might be good to get a new pinion too, that one looks a little dodgy

[boon]

Yeah just to +1 that it probably needs a new pinion to be a decent repair and a new drive gear to be a good one.

[jurelometer]

Since many of us just skim the posts in these threads and the same comment keeps popping up,  I am going to repeat that the diameter of the pin has to be very exact.  Cutting  down a drill bit, a 113H pin, some tig rod, or something from the hardware store is not going to work unless you are really lucky.

The pin has to have a light interference fit. Too loose and it can work out during a cast.  Too tight and you will have a hard time removing it to service the bearing, maybe bending the shaft. 

There are tables for these fits.  I looked up this particular case.  For a nominal 1.5 mm pin going through a 5 mm long hole,  the difference between a loose fit (too loose) and a heavy interference fit (too tight) is 0.04 mm.  Take out you digital calipers and see small a .04 mm gap is.  If you are careful, you might be able to sand down an oversized pin by chucking it on a drill, but the easiest thing to do is buy the right sized dowel pin or a replacement part from Daiwa. 

I am assuming that there is  no taper.  The tutorials don't specify popping out the pin from a specific side.  I have  a Lexa 400, but don't remember  popping off the spool pin.

BTW, it might be useful to check if the shaft hole is now deformed as well.

-J

[steelfish]

I havent gone throught this reel yet, I just opened it up to check the problem, right now Im kinda busy with a fishing rod, that said, I have always had bad luck getting parts from Daiwa (everytime I see a broken daiwa reel in my working table I know its not gonna be an easy one), so, trying to get a cross pin from them wasnt into 1st options  

but I will, if I dont find anything that could replace that pin.

in my knowleage if I get a new pinion gear I should better get a new main gear and that will make it expensive, so I will go from step 1 to step 2 and continue if needed.

[JasonGotaProblem]

Abu pins are pretty interchangeable. Maybe we're lucky and daiwa uses the same bar stock for all/most their baitcasters?