Shellaced grease removal

[MolBasser]

Hi all,

I'm going to be building my Cortez Conversion squidder next week, and i had a couple of newbie questions that I figured I put here for your amusement and my education.

1. I want all the old parts (the like 5 of them) to be like new, so I want to remove the shellaced oil from the metal.  Specifically the bridge and yoke.
     A) what is the best solvent for this purpose?
     B) what sort of abrasive will assist without scratching the chromed brass/ brass and also not be destroyed by the solvent.

2.  A light coating of ALL interior surfaces of the anodized aluminum and other metal is recommended with grease, correct?  I'm using Penn reel grease as my high viscosity lubricant, and would be using this as the protectant.

3.  How fast does galvonic corrosion occur, and what do I watch for/do if I see it form between the stainless and aluminum?

4.  I got an old power handle that has some pitting in the chromed brass, how best to clean that metal and protect it from further corrosion.

Cheers!

[Swami805]

I use carburetor cleaner to clean metal parts but many different solvents will work. I use simichrome to polish metal

[Keta]

3.  How fast does galvonic corrosion occur, and what do I watch for/do if I see it form between the stainless and aluminum?

It depends on where the dissimilar metals are on the nobility scale, the further apart the faster.  Grease is your friend.

[MolBasser]

Here is an example of what I have done so far.

Too much grease?  The body has the blue penn grease and inside the threads of the stainless alan bolts and under the clicker spring has red quantum reel grease.  When I join the body and the plates, there will be red quantum reel grease between the parts.  (I'd just use the blue, but..... the reel is red and my brain says red is better).

[Brewcrafter]

Lee speaks wisdom.  Now with your photo, that is definitely more grease than I would use, BUT you certainly are not hurting anything - just wasting grease.  A thin layer is all it takes unless your reel is going to spend an entire season in the rod rack getting pummeled and soaked with waves coming over the side every day.  I would say pay particular attention to the threads/holes of fasteners, but again, be careful - a little goes a long way.  It does not take much but when you are dealing with fasteners that go into a blind hole (such as the screws holding the clicker spring in the photo) a little too much grease and you will be asking how to remove broken fasteners/repair stripped holes when you hydrolock.  You're doing fine keep us posted with updates! (and any questions!) - john

[Keta]

John is right, a bit less would work.

Too much grease in a screw hole could dammage the frame due to it not being "compressable", agan like John mentione above.  A bit on the threads is all needed.

I was fortunate enough to "inherit" a few rattle cans of Boeshield when my brother closed down his aviation repair station and use it rather than grease.  However grease is far more "cost effective".  I also have a shrinking supply of big $ anti-sieze we used on steam turbines I put on screws if I do not use grease.

Pitted chrome does not effect how a reel functions but it makes your reel look like shat.  Try to find a better "stock" handle/handle arm or get a aftermarket one.

[MolBasser]

Pitted chrome does not effect how a reel functions but it makes your reel look like shat.  Try to find a better "stock" handle/handle arm or get a aftermarket one.

It's not that bad and on the reel side of the handle, so it's not a huge concern to me. Just trying to figure out how to keep it from getting worse. Eventually I'll get another, but if like to use this one a while till I learn the reel and understand what handle would be best.

[MolBasser]

Odorless mineral spirits, #0 steel wool, toothbrush and the old parts are degreased and mostly de-shellaced.

I get the sleave and star on Monday so just in a holding pattern.

Gears are all in really good shape and not much wear on anything.  I don't think this reel got much use.

[jgp12000]

I use rubbing alcohol sometimes after a lacquer thinner bath on metal parts only. Also "Awesome" Cleaner from dollar general. I let it sit 1 min & then rinse under the laundry room faucet for any residual grease.

I use a plastic spudger to get stubborn shellaced grease off, pointed On one end can get in nooks & crannies. The flat end for larger flat areas. I like gun brushes also the Small end can get in tight places.

10 Pieces Universal Black Stick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGNCNR0

Gun brush
https://a.co/d/094weSqb

[Keta]

I like Awesome but it can frost glass.  I am not sure what it does to anodising.

Carb cleaner or acetone are what I use for stubborn grease.

[Bill B]

Great advice from 3 awesome builders.  Bill

[MolBasser]

What I love about these reels is the functional simplicity.  Here is the reel with the external stuff put on and greased and such.


1 question I have is whether the spool spindle is supposed to hit the cup (and thus tightening the cups allow a sense of cast control), or if the spindle rides on the inside of the inner race.

The instructions have you putting in a 0.03" shim on the clicker side which suggests that the spindle should press against the race not the cup.  But why would you not need to shim the other side also?  I have a washer in the bags of parts from the natural reel or the kit (there was some mixing) that is the right diameter it is 0.02" that could be put in the cup on the gear side if it makes sense. 

Both cups can be adjusted so the shim would only function (on either side) as an assurance of the spindle pressing on the race and not on the cup.

If anyone can give me a good reason why both wouldn't be shimmed I would very much like to understand this.

Top pic gear side waiting for the bearing or shim bearing.  Bottom pic the clicker side with shim under bearing.

Bearings are being lubricated with ReelX

[cbar45]

Hello,

Yes on both sides the spool should be pressing against the race not the cup.

I believe the extra shim can be used as necessary to center the spool within the frame, thus distributing pressure equally throughout the parts.

Back off both bearing cups, center the left spool flange using the clicker-side cup, then do the same for the right side accordingly.

[MolBasser]

Hello,

Yes on both sides the spool should be pressing against the race not the cup.

I believe the extra shim can be used as necessary to center the spool within the frame, thus distributing pressure equally throughout the parts.

Back off both bearing cups, center the left spool flange using the clicker-side cup, then do the same for the right side accordingly.

Excellent. Thank you. It makes the most sense to me that way.   

[MolBasser]

Yeah, both shims in works fine. Free spool for days. Easy to adjust.

USPS is convinced it will get my sleeve from salt lake city overnight. I'm not convinced.