Submarined 130 and 80

[Marlinmate]

A repeat customer of mine who is a Capt of a private vessel...tells me he is bringing me some Tiagra 130's and 80's..2 of each

He then mentions that a 130 and an 80 went overboard last year and were saved by the safety leashes. (This is good...but also mean they were towed for a while)

First 80 I cracked open was a good one.

First 130 I cracked open was a good one

Second 80 I cracked open looked like a salt mine. Second 130 was no different.

Why would anyone wait 6 months to get a dunked reel serviced?

The 130 cover plate had a hole in it from corrosion. The spool was corroded so bad it needed to be replaced.

The internals smelled like a dead eel/low tide. Horrible.

Shame. Shame. Shame.

[Marlinmate]

Additional photos

[Swami805]

That'll cost ya!
Did they still work?

[Marlinmate]

Still worked...but now work better

[Maxed Out]

 Just imagine how much less damage would have occured if the reels had been properly greased prior to dunking !!

[ReelClean]

Some of my customers listen to me...  Two months washing around on the sand on the bottom under 60ft of water next to a bommie 20kms out wide. His mate pulled the lost rod/reel up on a jig!  Thankfully when he rang the owner he was told to drop it in fresh and leave it there!  Some bearings actually survived.  I just can't get through to a lot of people that it's not the saltwater that kills them, it's the air!  I replaced the rotor but the body just needed the tailcap replaced.  He refused to replace the spool and handle because it is now his "lucky reel".
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[jurelometer]

I just can't get through to a lot of people that it's not the saltwater that kills them, it's the air!

I am also a huge proponent of soaking non-"sealed" reels, even as just a part of routine maintenance,  but I think that your  explanation as to why is better served by a bit more accuracy.

Pure air will not corrode alumimum or stainless, nor will relatively pure non-salt water.

Metal corrosion needs salt and moisture. When the moisture comes from in the form of air humidity available in most environments, you can get an aggressive progression of corrosion.  This is because the moisture in the air forms a micro film of water and salt on the surface, I.e., a concentrated electrolyte solution.  This is why aluminum corrodes much faster in seaside communities than out in the desert.

Fresh water dilutes and then evacuates the salt.  There is no better solvent for salt. Use a reasonable amount, like a bucket worth, or at least a good flush  from a hose without high pressure.

I remain baffled as to why so many folk here are afraid to get their reels wet with freshwater.

-J

[Gfish]

Agree. I paint a light coat of grease on everything inside of a reel, then squirt the outside of them after use. But, afterwards I check each reel inside. Usually I only gotta deal with tiny water drops caught in the grease. Leaving it could eventually cause emulsification.

Air at near 21% Oxygen is an "oxidizer". But reels are ready for this, with either anodized aluminum or graphite composite parts on the outside and a grease coating(hopefully) on metal internals. Is that why I see brass or steel with "stains" on parts sometimes, oxidation?
Comments please.

Sinful almost to leave those Tigara's for that long before maintenance.

[UKChris1]

Brought tears to my eyes 

I have many reels that have been thoroughly soaked in seawater during use (some for more than 50 years - Penn made Senators to last) and yet they are still in excellent condition. Indeed, greased on the inside, thorough freshwater washdown and chamois dry when back at the dock and after a multi-day trip they get an overnight bath in warm water that has a squirt of washing up liquid in it, then a thorough wash in clean water, dry and at the end of the season, open up, check, service and re-grease everything.