titus gold 15 II

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 05:24:37 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

slugmeister and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

alantani

i'm going to take you through this reel first, and then we'll talk about it later.  here are the schematics from the okuma website....

http://www.okumafishing.com/products/reels/2-speed/tg30-2-2005.htm

and here's the reel.



first off comes the decoration plate (key #205) and screws (key #9305, 9306 and 206). 





then the lever drag assembly (key #600, 601, 602, 603, 605 and 9208).



next comes the right side plate assembly (key #200).



note the slight corrosion and the dry right side plate screws (key #9301).





just a quick peek inside the right side plate assembly before you set it aside.



pull the spool assembly and set it aside as well.



the left side plate (key #300) is removable, so i'm going to remove it to grease all of the frame screw holes.





remove and grease the hanger screws (key #9309) for the hanger (key#108).





remove the body foot screws (key #9310).  note the corrosion already forming.



remove the body foot (key #102).  more dorrosion.



grease up the screw holes and cinch the screws down good and tight.  i don't want the reel foot coming off in the middle of a fight. 



paint a little grease on the inside of the left side plate, grease the screw holes and bolt it back together. 





now, let's take a look inside the spool assembly.



the spool cover (key #405) assembly has reverse threads.  this one came off a little too easily. 



note the rubber gasket between the spool cover (key #405) and the pinion guard (key #607).  when the drag lever is pushed forward to "strike" the gap is sealed and this will prevent water intrusion into the drag chamber.  just like shimano lever drag reels, the okuma's should be rinsed down while in gear. 



remove the two right spool bearings (key #9105) and the compression spring (key #613).  note the rust formation after only one trip. 



remove the click pawl (key #304) and click pawl screws (key #9314).



here's a view of the main shaft (key #718) assembly as it would sit inside the spool....



and disassembled.



note the corrosion already forming in the right spool bearing.  i believe that water was able to intrude past the bearing shields, these shields then held the water inside the bearing and contributed to the damage that you see. 



fortunately, the corrosion was only superficial.  i was able to clean out all the bearings and bring them back to 100%.  they were lubed with corrosion x and will be install open, without shields. 



now to the business side of the spool.  here's the front side of the drag washer (key #611).



and here's the back of the drag washer.



i have no idea what kind of grease it is and it looks like it was applied unevenly.  first, i'll clean off all the old grease.



both sides of the drag washer and the spool will get a coat of drag grease.





now vigorously wipe off all the excess grease from the working side of the drag washer....



... until it looks nice and clean, ...



... and drop it back into the spool.



you have to admit, this looks much better than this ....



... but will it make a difference?  probably not!

re-assemble the spool shaft.



slide the spool shaft in from the left side and install the click pawl.



install the bearings and compression spring.



screw on (reverse threaded) the spool cover assembly as tight as you can, by hand. 



and back into the frame it goes.



at this point, i pulled the guts out of the right side plate to get to the right side plate bearing.  in other reels, this is the bearing that is at highest risk for corrosion.  everything was fine until i tried to get the dog springs back on.  it took about 20 minutes to figure it out. 

so how about this.  i'll show you the photos, but let's skip this step and if someone has a right main bearing that is toast, let me know and we'll go through it again.  otherwise, let's just slap the right side plate back on and call it a day. 































yeeeeccchhhhhh!!!!!  like i said, let's leave the right side plate alone. 

ok, the side plate is back together.  now grease all the screw holes and bolt the side plate back on.



grease more holes and bolt on the quadrant or decoration plate.



install the drag lever and you're done.  whew!



i had this reel loaded with 65 pound spectra and the owner was going to topshot it with mono, so i do not have the final numbers for max drag at strike and freespool, but it should easily reach 15 pound at strike and 15-20 seconds of freespool.  not bad for a 3/0 sized reel.   

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

spes

Hello,
I have a titus gold 15 II
At the end of last season I had the handles knob break off on me.
I brought it to the local rod and reel store that I purchased it from and he replaced the whole handle with a new one.
I had also asked him to break it down and clean it out.
When I got it back it makes a clicking sound when reeling. Not as loud as when the clicker is engaged, but quite noticeable. I questioned that and the shop owner said don't worry about it.
I'm worried about it.
BTW
When I go to the Click HERE for Reel Schematics on Okuma's website, it's a dead link



alantani

he probably did what i did the first time and missed the collar to make the anti-reverse dogs silent.  the okuma website still has no schematics.  here a link to the one at mike's.

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/okuma/Okuma_TG_15_2sp.pdf
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

spes

Thank you for the reply.
Might that be something I can fix?
Being a total newbie I have no idea what your refering to.

Thanks again,
Spes

spes

Hello Alan,
I ordered some salt-x and some extreme reel, and a grease fitting,,,
But I couldn't wait to take a peek inside,, so I opened up the Okuma and i figured out where the plastic "silent spring" wasn't seated with it's barbs in the pawls,,
Took a little juggling to get it all lined up and to get the right side plate assembly to sit. Once I got it the reel was silent again. Thanks!

I will be open it up for a proper cleaning when my supplies arrive.
I couldn't get one of the left side plate screws off, the head is starting to strip.
And I did have a little corrosion on the drive gears, so I will probably have to open up the right side to clean it up.
Thanks again for the help.
Spes

alantani

great!  did you get the grease yet?
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

spes

Yes I did. Thanks
SPeaking of grease,,, I read one post where u put this link
http://www.usboatsupplies.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=USBS&Product_Code=ACC-GREAS-RE-FL&Category_Code=AYOM
for the Yamaha 3 oz grease.
I also read some other post that u said the 3 oz tubes weren't Marine grease.
That still true?
And one more question,, in this thread u left the bearings open... is that ALL the bearings ?

Thanks again!
Spes

alantani

yeah, things have a way of changing as we get older..... :-\

so for spool bearings, i like them with the shields removed, cleaned, lubed and then re-installed open.  for non-spool bearings, i like them shielded and packed with grease.  now that i have a bearing packer, i can can pack fresh grease into them without having to remove the shields.  it's quick and easy. 

for the yamaha grease, the 3 ounce tubes are NOT the marine version.  it was rather embarassing when i found that out.  what i do is take the 3 ounce cardboard tubes from any old grease, clean it out really well, then hand pack them with marine grease.  sorry about the confusion. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

spes

Do the bearing packers work with the blues side plates installed?
So it's drop it in the packer and fill it up?
  If so, sign me up. $60 right? Paypal or snail mail?
Thanks,

Bryan Young

The blue sideplates are usually a silicon or phenolic material.  Those sideplates will usually blow out when using the bearing packer.  Those type of shielded bearings, you can easily remove the shields and pack the bearings by hand.  It's a little more difficult when the bearings are provided with metal shields.  This is where the bearing packers really shine because sometimes, the metal bearing shields are damaged during remove making them unusable.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

spes

Sounds like the best of both worlds,,,
Blue shields easy to remove and metal ones easy to use the bearing packer.

alantani

Quote from: spes on January 17, 2011, 12:47:32 PM
Do the bearing packers work with the blues side plates installed?
So it's drop it in the packer and fill it up?
  If so, sign me up. $60 right? Paypal or snail mail?
Thanks,

the bearing packers have saved me hours of work and they do a better job that i could do by just pressing the grease through with my fingers.  send me a pm with your address again and i'll ship it out.  when it arrives, send a check in the return envelope.  thanks!  alan
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

spes

Hello,
Alan, would you know the dimensions of the bearings and drag washer for this reel?
I would like to price them on smoothdrag.

Thanks,

alantani

i sure don't.  call okuma on this one, anyway.  they should be able to set everything up for you right away.  alan
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

spes

Hi Alan,
I just busted this reel down. Everything but the right side plate.
Opened up the bearings, lubed. Greased drag washer. Put it back together, (including getting the silent anti click thingy right)

Handle doesn't crank ???

Did I mess something up inside? Or just didn't seat it back in right?

HELP!