TLD 25 not freespooling

Started by lyt, July 22, 2012, 03:48:15 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

redsetta

Quote...and tell me if the SQUARE part of the brass lever shaft body (cam) is sitting ALL THE WAY DOWN into the grooves when the lever is in full freespool
Yes - the cam must fully bed down into the lever when in freespool.
You have two 25s right?
If so, trying pulling the spool from the other one and compare the shafts on both.
Good luck, Justin
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

erikpowell

Was the reel in question brand new or a rebuild?
Because bro, I'm with Justin on this...it's usually the lever shaft body that it the culprit (part 0011). like alan says too, that hole has to be perfectly square and no burrs. This has happened to me before, exactly as you describe it...also check to make sure the square section on the main shaft is perfectly smooth as well and has no burrs...

Pull the lever shaft body off one of your other reels and try it on this reel... i bet that will fix your problem..
Good luck!
Erik

 

day0ne

Quote from: lyt on July 22, 2012, 11:02:11 PM


my thoughts are that this should be square with the grooves....right?

you see how it is angled?   the lever shaft body does not sit down into the grooves well because the cam of the body square does not sit onto the square of the shaft.

To answer your question, yes, the shaft needs to be square with the grooves. Something is twisted on your shaft. I'd look real carefull at the end that goes in the left sideplate. I've had to replace a TLD shaft before. As far as the "pop" most of my 20's and 25's only pop when going into freespool, not so much coming out. The "pop" is the drag lever going over the button just before freespool (on the gold drag quadrant). Have you checked that button and spring? BTW, the shaft is almost $14. If any needed parts run the cost over $30, you are usually better off letting Shimano fix it. They charge $30 and rarely charge much, if any for parts. They often just send you a different reel. I know this is a reel repair board, but money is money.
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

lyt

ok just measured 4.60mm  on the bellevilles....


if it is true that the shaft is twisted....that is a major bummer.

the lever shaft body has a very square hole....  but it appears that because the shaft is twisted, the lever shaft body cannot SEAT in the grooves and hence cannot join the to the shaft.

the problem is, that once i do join it to the square hole, i cannot move the lever at all....so why would this help me?
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

lyt

Quote from: redsetta on July 23, 2012, 09:34:53 PM
Quote...and tell me if the SQUARE part of the brass lever shaft body (cam) is sitting ALL THE WAY DOWN into the grooves when the lever is in full freespool
Yes - the cam must fully bed down into the lever when in freespool.
You have two 25s right?
If so, trying pulling the spool from the other one and compare the shafts on both.
Good luck, Justin


doing it now....
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

lyt

#35
SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

twisted shaft.

UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!!
If I did not have another shaft handy, i would have driven myself crazy.

It was exactly as I had suspected, the lever shaft body was unable to seat down onto the shaft because the square of the shaft was not squarely aligned.
I put the new shaft in and the reel is 100% like the others.

amazing...   now I'm beginning to wonder if I really did get the deal i thought I got :(

ok last question, and perhaps this is because of my ignorance.   I have not measured the strike lbs. yet because i need line on the spool......but when i go to strike on the reel and i have the drag cranked down a bit, should the cranking be hard?   like fighting against the drag?   it is especially noticeable when i am at full drag, I can barely turn the handle.    is this just the nature of the reel now?   it does not seem right.....


If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

redsetta

Quote...when i go to strike on the reel and i have the drag cranked down a bit, should the cranking be hard?   like fighting against the drag?   it is especially noticeable when i am at full drag, I can barely turn the handle. is this just the nature of the reel now? 
G'day Lyt,
Great job getting to the bottom of this. ;)
Re: the hard cranking, the pinion bearing is toast.
Cheers, Justin
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

lyt

hmmmm...   no i think the bearing is fine.....   

maybe i just dont know how these reels work as wel as i thought.    when you are at FULL drag should the crank be hard against what feels like the drag?

if so this is the first reel i have ever had that does that.....
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

lyt

ok it is definitely not correct.


when i put a medium drag setting, the reel is fine in freespool, has no bad effects at strike, but when i go to full, the handle almost cannot be turned.   there is definitely something impeding the crank.   
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

Bryan Young

That's the pinion bearing as Redsetta had indicated. It's gone, frozen, or damaged.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

lyt

Quote from: Bryan Young on July 28, 2012, 09:12:16 AM
That's the pinion bearing as Redsetta had indicated. It's gone, frozen, or damaged.

ok.....   the pinion bearing is  #215?   right?   

i cleaned all bearings, and i thought they were all fine, they spun well, no rust,  could there be a spacing issue?  i don't understand how I could crank fine at strike with medium drag but not at full drag.   it doesnt make any noise and freespool is great.

I am willing to accept your guys opinion as i still am quite green at this, but it just doesn't feel like that is the problem.
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

lyt

Quote from: day0ne on July 24, 2012, 05:39:42 AM
Quote from: lyt on July 22, 2012, 11:02:11 PM


my thoughts are that this should be square with the grooves....right?

you see how it is angled?   the lever shaft body does not sit down into the grooves well because the cam of the body square does not sit onto the square of the shaft.

To answer your question, yes, the shaft needs to be square with the grooves. Something is twisted on your shaft. I'd look real carefull at the end that goes in the left sideplate. I've had to replace a TLD shaft before. As far as the "pop" most of my 20's and 25's only pop when going into freespool, not so much coming out. The "pop" is the drag lever going over the button just before freespool (on the gold drag quadrant). Have you checked that button and spring? BTW, the shaft is almost $14. If any needed parts run the cost over $30, you are usually better off letting Shimano fix it. They charge $30 and rarely charge much, if any for parts. They often just send you a different reel. I know this is a reel repair board, but money is money.

i totally agree that financially now, on this first reel, I am out a few $$$.   however , being able to work on my own reels is priceless.   and since most of my reels are tld singles....i dont mind the learning curve.   This particular reel i started with had all the problems, the others probably don't even need a service.  they work perfectly.
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

kamuwela

the main issue with reels that cant crank  99% of the time it is the pinion bearing.

lyt

ok, look at this




i was looking at the springs, and the one in my first tld 25 reel originally was the short one.....   when i opened the second tld 25  the long one was there.  perhaps all 4 reels were services at some point and the repair guy put the one for the tld 20 in there?    or does it matter really?
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...

lyt

ok....

so here is the question....I need the answer before i can go any further.....(forgive me but..... I think I already know the answer to this.....but I have to ask it anyway in case i don't understand the new upgrade.)

When in full strike, should there be resistance when turning the handle? 

ok so when the answer...."no" comes from several veterans,.....   what OTHER than the bearing could it be....since I think the bearing is pretty good. 

 
If you keep doing what you've always done...
You'll keep getting what you've always got...