Everol 12/0 - a once-over with all the trimmings...

Started by redsetta, August 08, 2012, 10:09:44 AM

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redsetta

G'day all,
Here's a little rundown on servicing the Everol 12/0.
I believe the red drag plate is indicative of a 1970s' model, which was followed by the black plate in the '80s (Dr Rob may be able to confirm or correct this, however).
This one has had a fairly hard life and hasn't seen a service in at least a decade.
Like the Duel I did some time back (here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=2573.0), this reel is beautifully designed and engineered, and the alloy quality (and anodising) is of the highest standard.
I grew up dreaming of one day owning an Everol and, for me, the brand is emblematic of all that's best about fishing - along with Zane Grey's Tales of the Angler's Eldorado, Hemmingway's The Old Man and the Sea.
Righto, let's get into it - might want to grab a beer or a coffee for this one, might be a while... ;)

A couple of scene-setters...





Remove the handle bolt and washers.



Remove the keyed washer.



Loosen the 10 outer frame screws (for some ungodly reason, these hex heads are 7/64th).



The lube port bolt was frozen so, following a little penetrating oil, I loosened it with a large flathead.



Loosen the four gear housing hex heads.



It's a bit of a mess inside the gear housing, with rust having really taken hold.
There's a nice, hefty set of double sprung dogs, however.



The main shaft and pinion gear are integral, with the keyed portion actuating the drag plates beneath.



The drag lever just lifts off.



This external spring wire is an effective drag range limiter, ie pivot the loops to where you'd like 'strike' or 'max' to be for a given application and the lever will go no further.
Simply pull a loop as shown and it pops off.



Off comes the side plate.



Beneath which are the drag plates, the first being keyed stainless.



The remaining plates are held in place by an internal wire ring.



A double-sided eared stainless/fiber washer is next...



Followed by the second keyed stainless plate.



Last is a single-sided eared stainless/fiber washer.
Note the six small springs pressed onto the ears.
These are lightly held in place by burrs produced by punching the S/S and will readily pop off if bumped.



Beneath this last drag plates is an array of 16 springs, very like the Duel.
11 are 'hour-glass' in shape and the remaining five are conical.
Like the Duel, drag capacity can be increased/customised by adding springs.



The spool can now be separated from the frame.



Corrosion had taken a toll on this, with one headless hex in a predictable spot - the right harness lug.



Much like Erik's recent problem with a headless lug screw, there was enough thread remaining to grasp with vice-grips...



And turn out (once again, with a little help from some penetrating oil).





Continuing with the dismantle, loosen the 10 left side plate screws.



One had earlier been replaced with a metric M3.



Remove the eight hex screws from the reel seat.



The frame is now separated into the reel seat, top/lug plate, side plates and three S/S frame posts.



The two spool bearings are 12 x 24 x 6mm.



I'd left the lube port nut in place till ready to work on this as a unit.



While the rust looks pretty advanced, there was little in the way of pitting or real corrosion on the main gear.



The ratchet gear, main gear and handle shaft are all integral, ie turned/milled from a single piece of steel.



The right side plate bearing is 7 x 17 x 5mm.



Once again, this lube port was frozen, but coaxed free with Kroil and a big flathead.



The clicker assembly is held in place with an external circlip.



The assembly itself is composed of six removable parts.
From the bottom here:



...and from the top:



The respective components:



Cleaned and ready for reassembly.
Note the alloy post has a small spring loosely pressed onto a lip.



Insert the post into the top of the assembly, spring facing outwards.



Reaffix the cover plate.



Insert the second spring into the cavity.



And fit the ball bearing onto the spring - it sits lightly in place, but slides freely into the cavity if pressed.



Replace the washer...



And refit the clicker assembly, aligning the ball bearing with one of the two dips milled into the side plate.
Fasten in place with the circlip.



The left side plate bearing is also 12 x 24 x 6mm.
The shields were pressed, so had to be discarded once removed.
(A little movement of grease over time from within the bearing isn't a major concern in this instance.)



Refit the reel seat plate and three S/S frame posts, with a little grease in each screw hole and between the plate and frame surfaces.



The lug and top plate can also be refixed...



The reel seat is a common spot for salt build-up and corrosion, so this was soaked in vinegar, then Simple Green (to neutralise), the thoroughly cleaned of any remaining corrosion with a dental tool.
A good coating of marine grease comes next, with special attention paid to getting grease thoroughly into the pitting.



Refit the reel seat.



Onto the spool now - left side first. Clean and coat lightly with grease.



Refit the cleaned and repacked spool bearing (trolling only for this monster, so free spool is inconsequential).



Refit the clicker plate and three screws.



A thrust washer (12mm ID) fits between the left side plate and spool bearings.



Like so...



Refit the spool into the frame.



Replace the 16 drag springs...



And right side spool bearing.



First in is the sprung, eared drag plate...



Followed by the first stainless keyed plate.



The double-sided eared plate...



And the final keyed drag plate.



The internal spring clip can be refitted - back in place here...



The main shaft simply slides back in, but must align with the two keyed drag plates and may require some finessing.



How it should look at this point:



Onto the right side plate...
This sun-shaped plate conceals a large bearing.



An external circlip holds this bearing assembly in place.



Once the circlip is removed, the top race lifts away, revealing...



A flat bearing 'cage' and 14 ball bearings.



This leaves the bottom race and the drag lever's actuating mechanism.
Note the mono which has become wrapped in the threaded 'sleeve' - it's been in there a while as it doesn't match the current mono spooled on the reel.



The actuating mechanism or sleeve has an interlocking thread, one above and another below the side plate.
Remove the top half of the threaded sleeve (and belleville washer).



Note the six small springs which the top half of the actuator (and belleville washer) press upon.



Remove the lower half of the actuator (with mono attached in this case)...



Surprsing that it still (apparently) worked reasonably well, despite the mono (and generous amounts of rust).



A quick check that nothing's gone astray: there should be 14 ball bearings and six springs...



The double sprung dogs pivot on two S/S posts, fastened by nuts on the back of the side plate.
Remove, clean, grease and replace.



Replace the cleaned and regreased bottom bearing race.



Fitted:



Replace the clean and greased springs...



And refit the top half of the threaded drag actuator or sleeve.
Note the bellevilled washer already in place on the thread.



Refit the bearing 'cage'.



The 14 ball bearings drop right into place.



Replace the cleaned and greased top race...



And fasten in place with the circlip.



The side plate is now ready to refit.



Refitted and fastened down.
(Note I've left out the M3 from the reel seat as I intend to replace with an original.)



Replace the drag limiter or 'strike set'.



The double dogs slide onto the posts, while the springs hook onto wire loops running through the dogs and small posts pressed into the side plate.



The drag lever slots easily into place...



Followed by the main and ratchet gear assembly.
Use a small screwdriver to 'open' the dogs and allow the ratchet gear to slip into place.



Now back to the gear housing...
Despite being several decades old, this model came replete with an AR bearing to complement the double dogs - nice...



It's clearly a failure point, however, and was thoroughly toast.



The bearing housing was 'corrosion-welded' into place.
This posed a real problem as it couldn't be pressed out from the front due to the small circumference of the outer hole.
It was soaked for several days in a variety of different solutions such as acetone/ATF, penetrating oil etc, but no joy...
I eventually decided to heat the gear housing as the alloy would expand at a faster rate than the steel housing and (hopefully) separate the two.
Beware of excessive heat or time, as the anodising will be compromised.
10 minutes at 150C (300F) was sufficient in this case.



A bit of persuasion with a punch and hammer, and out it eventually slid...



The cavity has been left somewhat pitted by the corrosion, but is in reasonably good shape considering.



After due consideration, I elected not to replace the AR bearing as it's a weak point and extremely difficult to remove once corroded.
Instead, I turned/lathed a custom 13 x 19 x 15mm bushing from high-temp, high-quality industrial bushing nylon.
Here's the finished item, relative to the original:



(Note the gear housing bearing has also been refitted.)



Fitted:



Replace the gear housing...





Despite trying every major fastenings supplier in Auckland, 7/64th hex screws to replace the snapped/damaged originals are unavailable.
So I customised the nearest available screw - a flathead.
Here is the standard flathead, the ground-down flathead and the original hex.
(Note that, having replaced four hex heads with flatheads, I now had a spare to replace the M3 reel seat screw with an original.)



Fasten down the gear housing...



And... Job done.



Last one out, turn off the lights... ;) ;D

Righto, hope it was of some interest.
All the best, Justin
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

Mooki

Nice one, I just love these tuts showing the internals of different reels  8)
Something like 40 BCs, mostly ABU. Still counting upwards...

CapeFish

Fantastic tutorial, amazing reel with lots of little springs!

josa1

Great Tutorial!!  Wish I had one like this to work on.  Haven't seen this type of reel before.  Am I correct in assuming that they're no parts available?  What about the drag washers, would they still operate smoothly?  Great job in overcoming the issues you encountered, such as the AR bearing replacement with a bushing after removing the "stuck" component from the side plate.  Good photography also.  You're almost professional grade!  Thanks.  Josarafa401

Robert Janssen

#4
Job well done. Very nice!

I like the bushing; good thinking. Many of the Everols now use a bronze bushing, but maybe you just didn't have any lying around. That technical nylon ought to last about a hundred years or so. It'll do.

(y'know, I couldn't understand at first where all that rust in there was coming from. There isn't anything in there that really CAN rust; everything is made of bronze or stainless... Until you showed the needle bearing, or its skeletal remains. Good lord; it must've been in there for ten thousand years.)

QuoteBeneath this last drag plates is an array of 16 springs...
11 are 'hour-glass' in shape and the remaining five are conical...drag capacity can be increased/customised by adding springs....

Hmm, yes, but at risk of messing up the accuracy of the drag scale, which is kind of the idea of the whole thing. I don't know why the springs are different; perhaps someone has been in there before you. Incidentally, the drag lever goes a full 180 degrees, past the end of the scale, so the full max drag is probably more like 48 or 50 lb. That ought to be enough.

Josarafa401, Yes- parts for the reels, no matter how ancient, are available; all you have to do is ask. But Redsetta probably figured it was easier to just do it himself. As do I.

Doc.

.


alantani

nicely done!  it would be great to see a carbon fiber drag set for this reel!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Alto Mare

Excellent tutorial Justin, as usual. Those reels are built like tanks, just like me, I was also made over there ;).
Thanks for showing it to us buddy.
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Robert Janssen


redsetta

#8
Nice work Robert - they're very impressive and would be a great addition.
You make clear the difference between an expert and an enthusiast  ;) ;D
Cheers, Justin
PS I considered a bronze bushing (it would've been an ideal solution), but figured it was a little beyond my capability (and tools) ;)
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

Robert Janssen

 Yes, you're right- I made those myself.

However, all Everol drags are carbon fiber nowadays; they have been for many years. And new replacement drag washers fit old reels without any further ado.

There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with what you have there though, so why bother.

Good job; enjoy.
.

wallacewt

redsetta,what a magic tutorial.impossible for me but a good chance with your help right there.many thanks.

redsetta

Cheers Wallace - appreciate the feedback.
Hope all's well with you and yours.
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

wallacewt

alls well justin,been squidding last couple of days
or should i say inking,said to my fishing buddy
"havent they got pretty eyes"
sure enough he had a close look
slurrrp,got him right in the face,
man i cracked up,had a white shirt on also.
next day squid in the bucket let fly and got me
up the back and legs.
"good boy"said my would be buddy.

redsetta

Quote..."havent they got pretty eyes"
:D ;D
Gotta remember that one... ;)
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

whalebreath