CT reel building

Started by GulfOfBothnia, November 25, 2012, 08:04:55 AM

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GulfOfBothnia

Hi,

I assume here are some ct casters around...

I'm planning to build one ct reel in 5500 size.
The question is: Should I

1) Buy original CT frame
2) Buy a conversion set and convert "standard" frame into ct frame

Is it only a question of price or does either option give any advantage over another?

regards,
Antero



Nuvole

The original CT frame may not match the 5500CS side plate screw insert.

GulfOfBothnia

Thanks. I've never thought of that... need to check.

day0ne

#3
Quote from: Nuvole on November 25, 2012, 08:22:27 AM
The original CT frame may not match the 5500CS side plate screw insert.

I've never had that problem and have converted 4 or 5 5500 and 6500s. While I prefer the CT frame (or one of the after market aluminum frames), the conversion bars work. One problem with them is once completely converted (sawing the top bar, replacing the studs, etc), you can't put it back without buying a new CS cage. If you convert with a CT frame, you can put everything back and sell the CT frame if you want. BTW, you will love the CT setup unless you like (or need) levelwinds
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

Nuvole

I've three 6500. Two from the 80's and one modify by Foran(assuming its a CS conversion). I compare them side by side and find that the screw alignment is very slightly out. Its less than 1mm, but enough to make them not interchangeable unless I widen the screw hole of the right side plate.   

Bryan Young

:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Nuvole

CS=with level wind
CT= non level wind

Its either some senseless code, or we need some Swedish here to give us some clue.

Quote from: Bryan Young on November 26, 2012, 03:56:06 PM
What does CT stand for?

GulfOfBothnia

Quote from: day0ne on November 25, 2012, 09:24:41 PM

I've never had that problem and have converted 4 or 5 5500 and 6500s. While I prefer the CT frame (or one of the after market aluminum frames), the conversion bars work. One problem with them is once completely converted (sawing the top bar, replacing the studs, etc), you can't put it back without buying a new CS cage. If you convert with a CT frame, you can put everything back and sell the CT frame if you want. BTW, you will love the CT setup unless you like (or need) levelwinds

Maybe I will sacrifice one frame for this, unless find a CT frame at reasonable price.

I have never tried non-levelwind reel so it will be interesting.
So you need to "levelwind" by thumb and index finger ? Hopefully I will learn...

day0ne

Quote from: GulfOfBothnia on November 26, 2012, 06:34:35 PM
Quote from: day0ne on November 25, 2012, 09:24:41 PM

I've never had that problem and have converted 4 or 5 5500 and 6500s. While I prefer the CT frame (or one of the after market aluminum frames), the conversion bars work. One problem with them is once completely converted (sawing the top bar, replacing the studs, etc), you can't put it back without buying a new CS cage. If you convert with a CT frame, you can put everything back and sell the CT frame if you want. BTW, you will love the CT setup unless you like (or need) levelwinds

Maybe I will sacrifice one frame for this, unless find a CT frame at reasonable price.

I have never tried non-levelwind reel so it will be interesting.
So you need to "levelwind" by thumb and index finger ? Hopefully I will learn...

I just use my thumb
David


"Lately it occurs to me: What a long, strange trip it's been." - R. Hunter

Robert Janssen

#9
Quote from: Nuvole on November 26, 2012, 04:30:13 PM
CS=with level wind
CT= non level wind

Its either some senseless code, or we need some Swedish here to give us some clue.

Quote from: Bryan Young on November 26, 2012, 03:56:06 PM
What does CT stand for?


Swedish yes, clue no.

C is usually for ball bearings, as in C3, C4 and so on.

S and T, i don't know. Niether of them fit the Swedish word for levelwind. Maybe it is S for Simple and T for Thumb.

See following, brazenly stolen from the Abu-Garcia website:


Glossary of Reel Terminologies

A = Small arbor spool, larger line capacity than the standard spool (for example 5000A)

AB = Anti-backlash, (for example 5600AB)

B = Small arbor spool, larger line capacity and a line out alarm (for example 5000B)

C = Reel has 2 ball bearings in the spool or around the spool axle depending on spool design

CI = Reel produced for Independent dealers

C3 = Reel has two ball bearings in the spool plus a one-way roller bearing for the anti-reverse (the 7000C3/7500C3 reels have two ball bearings at the ends of the spool axle plus a third ball bearing around the crank shaft)

C4 = Reel has two ball bearings in the spool, one ball bearing in the level wind plus a one-way roller bearing for the anti-reverse

C5 = The reel has two ball bearings in the spool, two ball bearings in the level wind plus a one-way roller bearing for the anti-reverse

CB = Self-centering â€" disengaging level wind (for example 4600CB) 1980’s

CS = C stands for ball bearings, the S is short for "Sports", as in "6500C Sports Rocket

CT = Non level wind model

D = Direct drive - Drag works only when your hand is off the handle grips. (For example 5000D)

DA = Direct drive with palming side plate

DL = Deluxe = Gold plated model

GR = Graphite construction

HCL = The H stands for High-speed, the CL for ball bearings and level wind, as in "Big Game 6500HCL"

HS = High speed reel

HSI = High Speed with Infini spool design

HSN = High speed narrow frame reel

IAR = Instant Anti Reverse (for example 2500CIAR)

IVCB = Infinitely Variable Centrifugal Brake

J-speed = the "J" stands for Japan, the J-speeds (8000/9000/10000) are high-speed saltwater reels made for the Japanese market.

L = Level wind (for example 6500CL, 9000CL; originally used for the 9000CL and 10000CL to indicate that those models had a level wind.

LC = Line counter reel

LD = Lever drag reel

LDN = Lever drag reel with narrow frame

SP = Sprint 6.3:1 gear ratio

ST = Striper model

W = Winch 3.8:1 gear ratio

Abu Garcia reels come in the following sizes:
1x00, 2x00, 3x00, 4x00, 5x00, 6x00, 7x00, 8x00, 9000, 10000. The 7x00 and up models are larger reels, with the 7x00 holding 300 yds of
Berkley Big Game 25# line and the 10000 holding well over 300 yds of Big Game 40# line.

The X in the size when replaced with a 5 represents a push button free spool release model and a 6 is a thumbar free spool release model.
Note that other size designations have been used. For example the 521/522/523, 821/822/823 or 1021/1022 made during the eighties, or the Ultra Mag I, II, III, IV, V, VI. "1" or "I" means a 4000-size reel, a "2" or "II" means a 5000-size reel, a "3" or "III" means a 6000-size reel and so on up.

.

GulfOfBothnia

Amazing list.

My guess is that T in CT stands for 'Tournament'.

Tile

The best option is to buy an original/aftermarket CT cage. You just install the geartrain, non-handle side and spool assembly to the CT frame. Another bonus is the fact that you can transfer the parts right back on the CS frame.
In solid fiberglass we trust

Seachaser

Just a note.  It is pretty easy to find a CS frame compared to a CT frame. The CS frame is generally a lot cheaper.  If you want to try a CT w/o spending too much, you can buy a cheap CS frame and remove the top bar and LW. If you don't like it you can change back.  Of all the ones I have done, I have never gone back.

LTM

Guys,

Id like to try the CT frame on one my 4600/5500 C3's. Will I be able to find CT frames for both of these sizes? Where should I start looking?

Thanx,

Leo

Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B