Calcutta TE Clutch bar issue

Corroded · February 24, 2018, 05:45:37 AM

Hello everyone I stumbled upon this site a while ago and im amazed at all the helpful people and information on this forum. I have an issue with my reel and i was hoping someone here could help me. I have a calcutta 201 te that I recently serviced. Everything was in good shape and disassembly/reassembly was successful with no issues at all. I went out to fish it and i started to realize there was something wrong with the clutch bar sticking in the down position. When i tried turning the handle to engage the gear and start retrieving line i would hear a clicking noise internally like something is not catching but instead smacking the engagement point. This continued on throughout the day with varied results. Sometimes it clicked for 5 rotations then engaged into gear then other times it would click 15 rotations then finally engage into gear. I got home and took it apart to see if maybe i was using too much grease or something so i wiped away most of it near the clutch internals put the reel back together but the same issue occured. I started to research schematics and internet pictures of other Calcutta te's I discovered something interesting. I found out theres two different schematics for the same reel.

#1- http://www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Shimano/Calcutta/CALCUTTA%20CTE201(2003).pdf.
#2- http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Round_Baitcasting/01CTE201_v1_m56577569830641864.pdf

This is confusing me because im not sure which one to follow. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

alantani · February 24, 2018, 05:57:26 AM

i sure hope i'm wrong on this one, but sometimes the stainless steel clutch pawl (BNT 2558) causes corrosion that digs into the frame. hopefully it's just the clutch pawl itself that is damaged. if that's the case, then a new clutch pawl will fix the problem.

Corroded · February 24, 2018, 06:12:09 AM

Thanks for your interest in my issue Alan! I did notice a little wear on my clutch pawl. But it seems so minor im not sure if thats the cause. I will take your advice though and go ahead and buy a new one. While investigating this issue i found something odd on this pic https://mulinete.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/shimano_calcutta_te_201_08.jpg
The clutch pawl apears to be resting on some sort of post. My calcutta does not have this post behind the pawl. This goes back to my original confusion of different schematics. Could it be that Shimano made an improvement on the newer model te’s and i simply have an old one with this issue of a “sticky clutch bar”?

exp2000 · February 24, 2018, 02:16:50 PM

Gidday mate

There are a number of usual suspects to check. Using the Shimano website schematic:

Inspect BNT 2213. This part is made of milk bottle tops and has a tendency to "explode" fouling up the works.
Replace as necessary.

Make sure BNT2257 is well greased and rotates freely on the frame.

Likewise make sure that the thumb bar itself moves freely and does not bind anywhere during it's travel.

Now closely inspect BNT2558 and BNT2434 for signs of wear. These are the main components that drive the clutch bar return. 2434 may wear a groove in 2258 and conversely 2258 may cause the teeth on 2434 to wear to such an extent that they no longer have sufficient profile to reliably trip the clutch pawl.

There is a faint dot punch mark near the center of 2434 marking it's upward face. If it is around the wrong way, this will affect the performance of the clutch trip mechanism.

There is a raised land inside the RH sideplate. Make sure you put a dab of grease on this to smooth the works.

See how you go with this lot before we consider last resorts.

Good luck,
Brett
~

Corroded · February 24, 2018, 04:30:49 PM

Thank you Exp2000 for the informative reply. When i get home tonight i will take apart the reel again and check the clutch pawl and anti reverse ratchet. The plastic parts you mentioned all seemed fine visually and structurally when i last took apart my reel so they shouldn’t be a problem. I will get back to you all on my issue asap. I heard this is a common issue in these reels so hopefully we can figure this out to help others on this forum.

Pro Reel · February 24, 2018, 06:21:09 PM

If you look at the picture posted for the ratchet wheel, you will see that the tabs are slightly rounded on one side and more squared off on the opposite side. You can look at he part and see that it's stamped metal. The flatter side goes down which will put the squared off side of the tabs tripping the clutch pawl. You can improve the performance of a slightly worn ratchet wheel and pawl by using a fine tooth file to square the tans a bit more and smooth up the end of the pawl where it can get rounded off from a lot of use.

Zimbass · February 25, 2018, 04:26:35 AM

I remember having a similar issue with a customers reel once.

I reversed the clutch pawl spring, BNT2559, and the problem was sorted.

Just a thought, as the spring does go in both ways.

Cheers.

Terry.

oc1 · February 25, 2018, 06:24:15 PM

You can get those same symptoms when the clutch bar itself and/or side shields are worn. BNT2452, 2560, 2561. Brett mentioned making sure the clutch bar moves freely. But, it also has to move freely when the post BNT2453 us being lifted from one side.
-steve

Corroded · February 28, 2018, 04:42:11 AM

Update. I removed most grease from the clutch pawl and the problem reduced. It now skips minimally. My clutch pawl has wear on it from the slipping so i ordered a new clutch pawl and washer(the one with the teeth). Once i get the parts in i will install with little to no grease and see if that will give me better results. I just installed some carbon smooth drag washers and my reel seems tough to move the handle. Any ideas on what i can do to make it smooth cranking again?

Bryan Young · February 28, 2018, 05:19:44 AM

Does the reel smooth out with a 1/4 - 1/2 turn of the star?

Corroded · February 28, 2018, 08:19:19 AM

It takes more of a full revolution. The reel is smooth cranking when the drag is set at its highest.(still not as smooth cranking compared to stock drags) When i back off the drag to its lowest drag pressure that is when it becomes hard to reel. I heard the carbontex drags are thicker than normal do you think they need to be broken in or something or is thats just how it is?

Bryan Young · February 28, 2018, 12:36:11 PM

Carbontex can be a tad thicker. I would first tie the line off and pull the drag about 5 time, 1 or so meter each to squeeze the excess drag grease out and settle the drags. Repeat again after turning the star anther 1/4 turn of the star then another 1/4 turn of the star. Then back off the star all the way and turn the star until the binding disappears. It have found that it happens but disappears after a 1/4 -1/2 turn of the star. If you are still getting 1 full turn, I suspect that one of the eared washer slipped out of the main gear. if all is good, then yes, you are right, the drag washers may need to be compressed and broken in through use.

Corroded · March 12, 2018, 04:03:25 AM

Update: The clutch now engages smoothly with no issues at all. Problem was most likely caused by over greasing. No grease is needed on the plastic parts only under them. Clutch pawl should be greased but area that contacts the ratchet teeth should have minimal grease to prevent the slipping/non engaging issue i had on my reel. As for my tight drag issue it was all solved by pushing the anti reverse bearing a little farther in to allow increased room for the drag/washer stack. Those carbontex drag washers are slightly thicker than the inferior dartanium drag crap. The drag is now working properly. Hope this helps anyone in the future who gets the te series of Calcuttas. They just dont make reels like this anymore. Less plastic and minimal bearings only in places that count is in my mind a good reel worth buying and maintaining.