Lateral 'Play' on Main Gear Shaft - (Abu/Shimano)

[mahfudzmn]

Hi folks,

I got a bit of a problem with some of my reels, mainly Abu reels the 6500 CS Rocket, 6600 C4, Revo ALT, and Kalex 50...and my Shimano Calcutta 50.

I noticed that there is lateral movement with the main gear shaft around 0.5-1mm of side to side movement. I suspect this is due to spent drag washers. I've always kept the reels with drags loosen (well except for some occasions when I forgot). Recently due to sticky drags with the Calcutta, I replaced the drag washers with carbontex and voilla the play is gone.

Is this a common problem? What if after I've replaced the drag washers and there is still lateral movement? Should I stack them carbon washers to make it fit tight?

Worth mentioning that I've checked and rechecked the reel assembly, don't think I've missed a part when I re-assembled the reels...

Thanks for your inputs!

[Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B]

i'd say that .5-1 mm is within limits. just like what you've written due to spent drag washers, you can think of the CF as your brake pads wears faster than the disc. personnally i wouldn't change the CF washers because of the =<1 mm. but maybe it's a matter of preference. also it's better to have that little bit of lateral movement. hope this helps...

[Bryan Young]

based on my experience, the play in the gear shaft has nothing to do with the drag washers.  It's probably due to wear and tear in normal use, and will often require a shimming washer to remove the play. 

[mahfudzmn]

based on my experience, the play in the gear shaft has nothing to do with the drag washers.  It's probably due to wear and tear in normal use, and will often require a shimming washer to remove the play. 

I probably would dismiss the wear and tear of other parts than the washer, because though the reels are around 3 months to 2 years old, they don't really see much action, except for the Calcutta which I bought second hand. But if, it's wear and tear which part has worn down, since brass of the main shaft is rather soft, maybe the threads has seen some effect from locking down the drag tightly?

I don't really mind the clacking I get from the play, I'm more interested to know if it would damage the reels...

Thanks for your opinions guys!

[Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B]

just like all other mechanical things after use there will always be that factor "it's not new anymore".    but seriously the <=1 mm will never damage your reels. also the only other thing i can think of that will cause a slack is the bottom part of the sleeve where it touches the bridge, but that's what we call "normal wear and tear". i think this is what bryan meant.

[Alto Mare]

I'm with the two gentlemen above, a little play is fine, but  would worry if it was more than 1mm. With that said, I like my sleeves tight.
Sal

[LTM]

Sal,

I like my sleeves tight as well. Ive noticed lateral play in my TLD15/30S and the larger TLD20/40S and both reels have very little usage. I like my guns, knives, engines and reels to have to have "relatively" tight tolerance's. That being said, where does one start with removing lateral play in reels in general and what is the minimum amount of lateral play (sort of like "blue-printing an engine) which is what Im after. I enjoy highly refined machines without going overboard.

Leo

[Alto Mare]

Sal,

I like my sleeves tight as well. Ive noticed lateral play in my TLD15/30S and the larger TLD20/40S and both reels have very little usage. I like my guns, knives, engines and reels to have to have "relatively" tight tolerance's. That being said, where does one start with removing lateral play in reels in general and what is the minimum amount of lateral play (sort of like "blue-printing an engine) which is what Im after. I enjoy highly refined machines without going overboard.

Leo

Leo, there is no need to be precise here. I would recommend going tight, but go as far as you could install the retaining pin without bending it. At times you will run into one of Alan's stainless sleeve that feels very tight, this has to do with the bridge itself, Alan's sleeves are usually spot on. The reel is going to feel very tight when you first turn the handle, but if you keep turning it for a little while, it will work itself in. This is the same with anything you'll use.
It might be a different story when we'll start using stainless steel bridges on all of our reels , but a little sandpaper or shims should do us just fine.
I just purchased two rolls of stainless steel shims, I thought they could be cut with disc cutters, but I was wrong.
I can cut the OD, but the Id is tough. I'm sure I will figure a way to cut the ID, but if anyone has some ideas, I would appreciate it.
Lee mentioned that he might be able to take them to the cutter, but if there is a way that I could do it using hand tools, it would be much easier.
Thanks! Sal

[Newell Nut]

Sal

Try putting a shim between two thin pieces of plywood that has a hole in them already or sandwich between two washers. Take the carbide router bit that I sent you for the dremel and cut the ID. Those router bits cut SS easily.

[Alto Mare]

Now, why didn't I think of that . Great tip Dwight, I forgot all about using those great bits of yours, I'll give it a shot.
BTW guys, don't ever hold a washer with your hand as you dremel the ID, the bits that I use won't hurt you, but the washer does do a nice clean job cutting into your fingers.

[Newell Nut]

You asked for it. Another Tip I discovered a few months ago. When you need to work on the ID of a washer, first clamp it in a small set of vise grips. Then clamp one side of the vise grip jaw in a vise. Now you have both hands free to steady the dremel.

Those carbide bits will surprise you. I used one for 5 years before I broke it. They will eat fast so don't use much pressure.

[Keta]

I noticed that there is lateral movement with the main gear shaft around 0.5-1mm of side to side movement. I suspect this is due to spent drag washers.

Get some shim washers (ABU part # 5189) and use them to reduce the thrust.  You will want a small amount of side to side movement but stacking the shims will reduce it.

http://www.abugarcia.com/sites/default/files/schematics/6500CSROCKET%20%200106.pdf

[Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B]

if you can find CF or delrin thin enough use them as shims because they are more forgiving...

[Cone]

I have a senator with the gear sleeve shimmed with a hex metal drag washer from a 7500ss.     Bob

[mahfudzmn]

I noticed that there is lateral movement with the main gear shaft around 0.5-1mm of side to side movement. I suspect this is due to spent drag washers.

Get some shim washers (ABU part # 5189) and use them to reduce the thrust.  You will want a small amount of side to side movement but stacking the shims will reduce it.

http://www.abugarcia.com/sites/default/files/schematics/6500CSROCKET%20%200106.pdf

Thanks for pointing that out! Your advice really helped me understand the source of the movement. Thanks again!!