Banax Kaigen 1000 repair

[Rothmar2]

G'day All,
Just thought I'd share some details about a repair to a Banax Kaigen 1000, I have done over the past few weeks, seeing as there is little information to be found on the 'net regarding faults to the drive system for the DC motor that powers the reel. This is by no means a tutorial, just a few "what I found and learnt" during the experience of doing this repair.
The problem with the reel was as soon as the reel was hooked up to the battery supply, the motor would run continuously, with no control from the LCD keypad. Moving the speed control lever would show response on the speed gauge on the right side of the display and the motor had limited speed control range. If the control unit was reset as per instructions, and clutched in to turn, the line counter would work. The LCD unit would also give a feedback beep to all presses of the control buttons. So it seemed as though the control keys and LCD display were working OK. At this point it was apparent there was a fault with the motor drive circuitry.
The motor drive casing is housed under a shroud on the front of the reel. To get to it, the reel has to be dismantled like so........
First up loosen the star drag right off. Then remove the manual crank handle securing nut locking plate, and the nut





Unscrew the star drag, there is a little spacer plate that comes with it



Remove the star drag clicker plate



Remove thrust collar for star drag



Remove the keyed thrust collar housing



Remove the four outside side plate securing screws. Note from the right side plate, they are machine threads. The left side cover screws are self tappers.



Remove the two clutch bridge screws



The right side plate can now be lifted off over the handle drive shaft. Be careful of the wires going to the speed control Potentiometer (Pot) or variable resistor. In fact care must be taken with all covers when removing in case the wires are damaged or broken by accident.



Also be careful of the bridge springs, ala working on the old Penn Senators. The anti-reverse dog is under the main manual drive gear



Lift out bridge springs, bridge and the pinion gear the meshes with the end of the planetary gears driven from the DC motor.



Remove the C clip that secures the level wind drive gear



Remove the gear, you can now access both securing screws on the right hand side for the motor drive casing (one is adjacent to thumb).



Now to remove the left side plate, remove securing screws for the plate, most are accessed from the spool side of the frame





Note self tappers screws from this side

There is only one screw that is removed from the "outside" of the left side plate



Remove the left side cover. Please note sealing paste on the drive housing. This pic was taken after the repair to the Drive PCB, and thus the white sealer has been added by myself, to seal the casing.



The silver shroud should now click out and up, be sure to loosen the screws at each end beforehand. The black plastic cover for the drive casing should now slide straight out



This is the drive housing. It also doubles as a heat sink for the components mounted on the PCB inside. Remove the four housing mount screws, 2 from each end.



Lift out the housing off the frame. Be careful of the wiring loom.



Unfortunately I did not take enough pix at this point to show disassembly of the drive casing. Once you are committed to opening the drive housing, you have to be very careful of the wiring loom where it passes through the side of the casing, so as not to break the wires connected to the PCB. Also, once the back plate is removed and the seal broken, all sealing areas and groove for the housing O-ring will have to be meticulously cleaned of all the old sealing compound, a tricky and tedious process. This is the back cover of the housing removed, along with the PCB. Note the heat conducting pads



This is the drive PCB, after replacement of the faulty component, and the critical heat carrying components have had heat conducting paste re-applied.



Now to what had failed. From the previous pic there are five critical components on this PCB that are heat sinked to the casing sides. The two that are of particular interest are the ones with the holes in their heat sinking plates (2nd and 3rd from left). These are MOSFET's. Similar to a transistor, but the semiconductor gate is voltage controlled. For those interested, here is a good article on them.

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/MOSFET/MOSFET.html

When the paste was cleaned off the components, this is what was found in the component 2nd from left on the PCB (after removal from the PCB)



Notice how the heat sink is discoloured (as compared to the replacement component on the right). This is a classic failure of a MOSFET that has been incorrectly heat sinked. We figured the way the original component had been mounted onto the PCB, it was folded over too low so that the heat sink on the MOSFET component was not in full contact with the heat sink pad attached to the side of the casing, thus not cooling the component enough to prevent prolonged heat stress. I am very indebted to my father in law, who is an electronics wiz, with guiding me through this fault find. As indicated in the above MOSFET article, they commonly fail to short circuit, hence the reason why the reel's drive motor was always running while connected to a power source. One of the two MOSFET's was shorted, allowing power to the motor at all times. The replacement component was ordered from a local electronics supplier (part sourced from England, could have gone cheaper from China, but did not wish to compromise reliability) for $15 AUD. New component soldered to PCB, before reassembling the drive casing



The casing was re-sealed with an elastomer based marine sealant. Careful attention was made to sealing the loom to casing.
The reel was assembled in reverse from above.
I had to make a shim of 0.5mm thickness to place under the drag bellevilles due to the manual drive handle jamming up when the drag was increased. Suspect that the spring washers had lost a bit of their springiness.



The preload washers are arranged as thus (from the gear), ><>.



Other than that, it was pretty much standard cleaning and greasing of all mechanical components. The drag stack was greased with Cal's, and metal plates honed. It came up very smooth.
I also made a new clutch engage/dis-engage lever out of stainless as the original plastic one had snapped off.
Another useful instructional video during this repair was this clip below, as the LCD display on this particular reel is all in Japanese. There are other versions that are in English.



Edit- User Manual and Parts diagram (English)  https://www.dropbox.com/s/17j6oeaxii65tfp/Banax%20Kaigen%201000%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf?dl=0

Hope this is of help to someone out there.

[Shark Hunter]

All I can say is Wow!
You have a lot of Patience my Man! Good Job!

[Irish Jigger]

Great job Rothmar2, I'm very impressed.

[conchydong]

Thanks for taking the time. My guess is the Daiwa Tanacom Bulls are very similar.

[Alto Mare]

Great job Rothmar2, looks like you've done it a few times before .

[alantani]

great work!  i know this is mostly about the electronics, but were you able to switch out the drag washers?

[Rothmar2]

No, I didn't. All I did was thoroughly clean the washers (not sure what they consisted of, didn't appear to be pure carbon fibre, maybe a mix? The washers were quite open weave though.) and greased. The metal washers were not entirely flat, probably due to their pressed manufacture. I honed them on a lapping plate, starting with a very coarse lapping paste, through to a fine. I then finished them with Autosol polish. I apologize for not getting more pics of the drag system laid out. Will endevour to find the parts manual PDF and add it to my original post for completeness.

[Shark Hunter]

I have never seen such a reel. I guess the motor is just for spooling and just reeling your bait in. What kind of drag can it Handle? How much do these cost?

[Robert Janssen]

Whoa. The school of higher learning...

[bluefish69]

Most electric reels that I have seen were Diawa. I saw all of them on deep water trips 300' & deeper up North Cod fishing, one even had a Jigging feature where it would motor up so far & free spool down. With the back pack battery they can cost up to & maybe beyond $1500.

[Shark Hunter]

Wow!
I Guess I'll keep relying on Human power. I thought maybe a couple hundred.
I could get an Everol 18 for that kind of Cash!

[Shark Hunter]

Here's one for $450. The same one that Rothmar fixed here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171167892392
The Daiwa Tanacom Bull 1000 is about $700.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Daiwa-TANACOM-BULL-TB-1000-Power-Assist-Reel-/251066096240
They are $999 at Cabela's.
This is just what I need! I can see myself with the fighting Harness and Belt and a 12 volt Battery strapped to my back for counterweight!

[Lunker Larry]

Certainly not a standard repair. Kinda scary!! Well done.

[wallacewt]

id want a life time warranty on one of these.
as alan asked about the drag,
does it work well?
if it wasnt extra smooth,would it put more pressure on the electrics(motor)
if you locked up the drag and hooked a large shark would it burn out.
i have never seen an electric reel.
good stuff rothmar2 to have a crack at one of these

[bluefish69]

The small deep charge battery packs are expensive with all the accessories. On a multi day trip you might need an extra battery or a battery charger.

Just what we need - more stuff to carry on the boat.