What keeps the spool on the shaft. There are little brass pieces on the spool shaft but I can't get them to expand to hold the spool on. Am I missing a spring? How does the button on top of the spool come out? Went to the DAM quick website, www.dam.de , got mamarized by thier weapons of seduction :o and realized I couldn't read german. Mikes reel repair has a schematic but it really doesnt show what I need.
The Dam Quick Master will be right with you! ;D
Mr. Fred Oakes. The Master of the Universe! ;)
No big deal, fsrmn --
Likely one of 3 things:
Corroded or tweaked copper axle spool catches
Missing or mashed spring (tiny and between the ears within the spool axle inside through slot)
Needs to be cleaned with something like lacquer thinner -- blown out -- a drop of oil -- see if the spring is active
The catches are part #100113
The spool axle is part #100528
If you cannot get the spring free and active -- best to just replace the entire axle, which includes everything as a unit
Let us know how you fared, and if you need any parts, let me know
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/31E7A7AE-5F37-4E91-8F50-93DCCDAF06D2_zpsuarswwae.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/31E7A7AE-5F37-4E91-8F50-93DCCDAF06D2_zpsuarswwae.jpg.html)
Looking with a magnifying glass I can't see a spring between the copper pieces. They move freely. There looks like a stub on each where a push spring might fit. So it looks like the spring is missing. There is a shaft assembly on ebay for $15, or can I just get a new spring?
My recommendation would be to replace the complete spool shaft assembly.
I have never been able to punch out the tiny roll pin successfully -- then get it back in place without everything becoming loose or falling apart afterwards. And that is the last thing one needs when fishing. And if you get the slightest burr on the shaft, roll pin, copper catches, slot edge, -- believe me, it will operate poorly, at best.
I'm thinking the Gnomes in the Black Forest assembled these -- and they are good so long as you don't mess with them -- and you clean them periodically, then apply a drop of oil.
If you would like to try and find a spring -- you might get it working OK.
Or I will send you a new complete shaft assembly -- N/C.
If you wish to go this route, PM your name & mailing address.
Post some pics when you are completed with the reel.
They are very strong reels.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/97ED4ECC-7BE2-4E59-A60C-76D22C436402_zpsdjs8yliv.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/97ED4ECC-7BE2-4E59-A60C-76D22C436402_zpsdjs8yliv.jpg.html)
PM sent. Thanks for the offer. you are right, I really need to replace the entire piece. I really didn't want to pay $15 for a part on a reel I paid $10 for even though it seems to be a good reel. Are the 330, Finessa and 330N basically the same reel?
On the way, Henry --
I never go by what I paid for a reel, as to whether it is worth fixing or not.
Just because you got a bargain -- doesn't mean you shouldn't fix it to fish it -- take the same reel if you paid $100 or got it free -- is there any difference?
Glad to help -- it will go in the mail Tuesday...
The 330 and the older Finessa are basically the same -- with enough differences however -- to not interchange some parts.
The 330N is a completely different animal, in every respect -- not better, just different.
Best,
Fred
Thanks to the part from Fred the reel is working great. Here are some pics of the repair.
not sure what the silver ring is on the handle. Maybe to let it fold in a little
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_011001679_zps4fj7uomz.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_011001679_zps4fj7uomz.jpg.html)
The handle doesn't unscrew. It has to be unclipped from the other side first.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_011745771_zpsytm1ctwv.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_011745771_zpsytm1ctwv.jpg.html)
once you unclip the arm you can remove the handle and unscrew the pin from the shaft.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_012842864_zpsk6dbidre.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_012842864_zpsk6dbidre.jpg.html)
once you remove the shaft the handle side can be removed.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_013402470_zpsuqt47xng.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_013402470_zpsuqt47xng.jpg.html)
I left the handle assembly together and just cleaned and oiled it. The roll pin holding it was too hard to get out.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_023832986_zpsyvv5oadp.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_023832986_zpsyvv5oadp.jpg.html)
I had to use pin pliers to remove the clip to remove the main bearing and pinion
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_013528698_zpsmucojmcy.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_013528698_zpsmucojmcy.jpg.html)
it looked like the un-shielded bearing was pressed on the shaft, at least it didn't move with gentle tapping.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_023812410_zpse5emctro.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_023812410_zpse5emctro.jpg.html)
the pinion was thick and looked like stainless steel. I packed the bearing on the pinion.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_025440984_zpshw8c4zrs.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_025440984_zpshw8c4zrs.jpg.html)
cleaned and re-assembled everything with a coating of marine grease.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_032537253_HDR_zpsppcb0a3o.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_032537253_HDR_zpsppcb0a3o.jpg.html)
removed and cleaned the drags. coated them with Cal's
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_034553926_HDR_zpsqaekfjz2.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_034553926_HDR_zpsqaekfjz2.jpg.html)
scrubbed the body with a little Dawn detergent and done :)
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag12/fsrmn/IMG_20150225_041941003_zpsxzgl5znc.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/fsrmn/media/IMG_20150225_041941003_zpsxzgl5znc.jpg.html)
If you screw the handle ring one way -- it will allow the handle to be folded in towards the reel body.
Also, by releasing the bail trip lever -- the bail will lay down flat against the body when being stored -- thus relieving all bail spring pressure when not in use.
Good work!
Best,
Fred
It took me a while to figure out how to get the handle off. How hard is it to remove and re-install the roll pin to completely dismantle the handle assembly? The sludge was so bad I had to pry the side plates off.
You need a 1/16" or 3/32" punch, a block of wood with a hole drilled in it, and a small hammer.
The pins are generally tapered slightly, and splined on the thick end -- so punch it out from the small end of the pin -- towards the slightly larger end.
At that point, the handle will come off, the round handle nut will unscrew, along with some washers, a C clip, etc. Then you can remove the main gear and handle shaft from the inside. Once these are cleaned up and oiled and greased -- you will notice a big improvement.
If you get stuck, let me know.
Best,
Fred
D.A.M. Quick made 6 microlights --
265 Microlite
110
110N
1000
1001
1002
The 110 is the smallest of the Finessa Series -- that includes your 330 also.
The 110 fits in your palm -- and is built and engineered exactly the same as all 7 in that series.
Your series includes the 110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, 550.
The 110, 221, and 331 reels are high speed gears -- 5:1 compared to about 3:1 for the others.
I do have 110s, or any other Quick you might want.
Best,
Fred
Henry,
Nice little tutorial there brother. It looks like your job might be a little easier than mine. ;D
Fred, is there anything you don't know? You are truly an asset here. I am trying to be just like you, but I can't compete. I guess that's why Sal calls you The Master of the Universe. Other than that funny little game, you are making good on it. ;)
Daron --
There is plenty I do not know -- just ask my wife!
And when it comes to reels, we each have certain types or brands we are competent with. For me it is the Penns, Quicks, Mitchells, Abus -- and a lot of the metal spinners from the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, and 90s.
I love the history, marketing, and evolution -- of the tackle industry.
Of course I work on nearly everything from Shimanos to Shakes -- but many times, I run into learning curves that I am on the wrong side of.
For many of the newer reels, a lot of the folks on this board are really experts -- unlike myself.
We all have our various talents -- that is what makes Alan's Board so interesting -- and the best resource of its kind anywhere in the world.
Best,
Fred
Hi Fred,
I just now figured out the procedure you were describing for releasing the bail /spring for storage. I'm going to run out to the garage and release the one on my 550 too.
I say too because I just picked up a dirty forlorn 440 at a garage sale. Dirty brown instead of black. I was going to get rid of it but I just spent an hour getting it clean behind the ears. The bail moved like it was filmed in slow motion before cleaning, but now I have good snap to the return.
Is there a posted 440 tutorial? I found two washers stacked on the gear /clicker under the spool and thought it odd to have two on top of each other. Is that the drag system on these?
Hi Randy --
The washer arrangement is typical, if you are talking about the brass metal ones.
Sometimes folks get these mixed up over the years -- if you don't have a schematic, I will post one later this evening when I get back home. Let me know, no problem.
Tutorials for a 440 are the same as a 330, 331, 220, 221, 550, etc. The 330 and 440 share the same bodies -- just different size spools and rotors.
If by chance, you are missing any washers or drags -- I have plenty.
Best,
Fred
EDIT: I just figured out how to get to the actual drags. In both the 440 and 550.
Having experience only with conventional reel service, I was looking for a 'stack' of some sort I could readily see.
Do you have carbon fibre drags for these in a stock Penn part # /size? Or is a smoothie what you use?
I was surprised to say the least on the mini drag size dimensions.
The 440's retainer ring must have a trick for reinstallation too huh?
Hi Randy -- you can adjust a CF to fit -- then grease with Cal's -- performance will increase.
Or you can go with the old smooth Resistex with asbestos -- I have those as NOS.
In the old days, drags were typically smaller than now.
But they worked OK -- and still will.
Drag technology has improved greatly in the last decade or two -- I think thanks in part to forums like this, and folks like Alan who have pioneered new drag concepts that manufacturers have now adopted.
Just pop the keeper ring off with a pick -- keep your hand over the opening -- these are second cousins to free flying dog springs.
Best,
Fred
You were maybe watching me look for it under the table? ;D I got it back together anyway so my education continues.
Next step will be gathering the courage to pull handles/side covers/shafts and gears. Another day soon.
The washers I was referring to originally were found between the spool and clicker gear. The 440 had two that looked like the drags, and the 550 had a fiber and a brass washer there.
I don't have any cf drags except 113h ones.
Also, is there a spool upgrade from plastic to metal on the 440/550?
Thanks, by the way for all the info.
Hi Randy --
No spool upgrade to metal on the 440 or 550.
Only large reel with metal spool is the 270 old green Super.
The 330 and 331 can have a metal spool upgrade if you use the old metal spools from the Finessa Series.
Most every spinning reel in the world has a few weak points -- in my opinion, the exceptions would be the Penn SS series and the ABU Garcia Suveran. Most of us know how good the Penn SS series is. The Suveran is possibly the strongest and best engineered spinning reel ever designed by any manufacturer. 4 sizes --1000, 2000, 3000, 4000 -- all using the same body -- just a strong reel capable of handling all 4 different size spools. Unbelievable engineering -- simple, dead solid, over built where it counts. These are the older made in Sweden reels from an earlier era -- not some of the new editions with the name Suveran.
On your Quicks -- pop off the handle using a 1/16" punch on the keeper pin -- then get into the side casing, and main bearing. clean and eliminate all of the old, hard grease. Regrease and oil using modern grease and oil, replace the drags -- and you are good to go.
If you would like some of the original NOS resistex asbestos drags -- PM your address, and I will send some out to you tomorrow. Let me know what size reel model numbers. I can also send some brass discs if needed.
Best,
Fred
Fred,
I found my drags in perfect condition, though they were oily. Thanks for the offer though. I will eventually measure the drags and figure out which CF to order.
I'm going to spool up both with 20# and try some shore fishing. The plastic spools should be good enough anyway for what I'm doing.
Both reels are smooth running little beasts.
Great, Randy --
If you get stuck -- let us know.
Good fishing!
Best,
Fred
OK Fred,
Been following this thread and noted that the drag on my 440 is sticking when really cranked down when fishing for kings last week. Wanted to examine the drag discs, but can't figure a delicate way to remove the star type retainer clip. The spool is plastic so I can't lever a screw driver w/o buggering it up, so was curious what the best tool/technique to remove the retainer clip.
Stew
Stew --
Just happen to be working on a 221 for a friend -- on my bench now.
This old reel had a damaged and bent rotating head, and a cracked spool -- all from improper shipping -- plus a ton of axle grease. I am replacing the spool with a slightly different one that has the easier copper spring ring retainer.
Just ease an old knife blade under the star-spring retainer -- then when you get just a little movement -- use a fine blade screwdriver.
Ease the screwdriver blade under the retainer -- then twist the screwdriver -- do not pry against the spool.
It will pop right out.
Best drags for your larger Kings would be CF greased with Cal's. Go ahead and burnish the brass discs -- they will be just fine.
Find the closest drags from Penn or Smooth Drag -- then set up an arbor in the chuck of an electric drill -- and just use a file to shape down to the right diameter.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/BA0D2F2F-0EB8-4942-9C30-5F0717B26733_zpsgpkbv69f.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/BA0D2F2F-0EB8-4942-9C30-5F0717B26733_zpsgpkbv69f.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/A0642484-6656-4129-BE03-15327755E2F1_zps4sbvrahb.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/A0642484-6656-4129-BE03-15327755E2F1_zps4sbvrahb.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/60EDA023-B9E1-4DBA-BBF7-95BF76C799A2_zpsmdu2ctw8.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/60EDA023-B9E1-4DBA-BBF7-95BF76C799A2_zpsmdu2ctw8.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/99A56862-CF92-4AA7-A28D-2DE1185A7BF1_zpsbvyuacmx.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/99A56862-CF92-4AA7-A28D-2DE1185A7BF1_zpsbvyuacmx.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/CE0384B3-1C07-4BDA-B089-2F8B3D70FD5C_zps1tgfyklr.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/CE0384B3-1C07-4BDA-B089-2F8B3D70FD5C_zps1tgfyklr.jpg.html)
Done...
This is an old DAM Quick 221 -- fairly rare.
High speed 5:1 version of the 220.
Longer crank handle for more torque, Steel Worm Drive, Bronze Main, Oversize BB -- little smaller than a Mitchell 300 -- 3 times as strong, IMO.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/D284856C-2D60-43CF-9D7D-8667A7304F0A_zpszeefvhps.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/D284856C-2D60-43CF-9D7D-8667A7304F0A_zpszeefvhps.jpg.html)
Quote from: foakes on November 11, 2015, 10:13:40 PM
Just ease an old knife blade under the star-spring retainer -- then when you get just a little movement -- use a fine blade screwdriver.
Ease the screwdriver blade under the retainer -- then twist the screwdriver -- do not pry against the spool.
It will pop right out.
Thx Fred, I figured where you were going on this.
That retainer was squished so tight, that I couldn't even get a jewelers pick under any tab corner.
I would have slipped some fishing mono under a prong and pulled up to dislodge.
I'll wedge something under there careful not to bugger the plastic spool.
I have been experimenting with 1.0mil teflon sheet cut into discs for my Mitchell 782 fly reel drag, whose fiber washers have deteriorated.
I made two punches on the lathe to fabricate above. I can post photos if anyone has interest in how to do this.
I need to pull the reel apart to check how it stood up to over 2 dozen king hookups last week (sadly season is over).
There used to be an old guy on eBay with tons of Mitchell parts and he claimed he had enough NOS parts to build dozens of those 782s, but his website got hosed...haven't seen him since.
Stew
Hi,
I recently lost one of auction - D.A.M.fishing reel 339 on ebay, please see the attached, can someone here help to introduce this monster? I have never seen a D.A.M. fishing reel like this.
Alan from New Zealand
Alan,
Since no one has yet responded...
Anytime you see the unusual extended spool and bail on a spinning reel, that it is a reel designed to cast for distance rather than used for regular angling.
Distance casting competitions were more common 30-50 years ago.
Alan - I believe this other recent thread here on the forum is with regards to this exact reel that you are inquiring about, and has some good information. - john
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=36187.0
About the 330, could a 330N use a Finessa 280 spool? The metal spool will be less likely to fail compared to the plastic.
Quote from: Barishi on March 03, 2023, 02:05:15 PMAbout the 330, could a 330N use a Finessa 280 spool? The metal spool will be less likely to fail compared to the plastic
A lot of parts need to be changed out or modified in order to accomplish this.
Beware of just snapping on a 285 (not a 280) spool to an "N" model reel.
It will click into place —- then will require cutting either the spool shaft and wasting it —- or cutting off the spool arbor and wasting that part when trying to remove the spool.
Not recommended.
Anything can be done and fabricated, of course.
D-A-M specifically has a warning in their shop manuals about not installing an older spool on the "N" series.
Exceptions would be using a 270 Super metal spool on a Finessa Series or an "N" series reel.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on March 03, 2023, 03:09:05 PMQuote from: Barishi on March 03, 2023, 02:05:15 PMAbout the 330, could a 330N use a Finessa 280 spool? The metal spool will be less likely to fail compared to the plastic
A lot of parts need to be changed out or modified in order to accomplish this.
Beware of just snapping on a 285 (not a 280) spool to an "N" model reel.
It will click into place —- then will require cutting either the spool shaft and wasting it —- or cutting off the spool arbor and wasting that part when trying to remove the spool.
Not recommended.
Anything can be done and fabricated, of course.
D-A-M specifically has a warning in their shop manuals about not installing an older spool on the "N" series.
Exceptions would be using a 270 Super metal spool on a Finessa Series or an "N" series reel.
Best,
Fred
Fred, why is this the case? What exactly changed between the 110-550 and their N counterparts? Also, are you saying the 550N can use the 270's spool?
Seperate question, why were plastic spools an option when metal had been used before? Doesn't make sense to me that DAM would overbuild the gearing then skimp on the spool...
I can shed a little light on using a 285 metal spool on a n model.
You need the spool and the brake nut for a simple exchange .
The spools are almost the same , the difference is in the skirt diameter . The 330 n is 2.430 and the 330 metal spool is 2.360 .
The brake nuts are two different diameters , the 330 nut is 1.294 and the 330 n nut is 1.385 .
If you try using the 330n nut on the 285 spool , the nut will catch the well rim of the spool and tighten down as you pull drag . That`s the simple version
Quote from: Barishi on March 03, 2023, 03:16:55 PMQuote from: foakes on March 03, 2023, 03:09:05 PMQuote from: Barishi on March 03, 2023, 02:05:15 PMAbout the 330, could a 330N use a Finessa 280 spool? The metal spool will be less likely to fail compared to the plastic
A lot of parts need to be changed out or modified in order to accomplish this.
Beware of just snapping on a 285 (not a 280) spool to an "N" model reel.
It will click into place —- then will require cutting either the spool shaft and wasting it —- or cutting off the spool arbor and wasting that part when trying to remove the spool.
Not recommended.
Anything can be done and fabricated, of course.
D-A-M specifically has a warning in their shop manuals about not installing an older spool on the "N" series.
Exceptions would be using a 270 Super metal spool on a Finessa Series or an "N" series reel.
Best,
Fred
Fred, why is this the case? What exactly changed between the 110-550 and their N counterparts? The spool shafts, arbors, drag nuts, and drag nut release mechanisms are different. Also, are you saying the 550N can use the 270's spool? Yes.
Seperate question, why were plastic spools an option when metal had been used before? Doesn't make sense to me that DAM would overbuild the gearing then skimp on the spool...
Who knows...?
Except it likely boils down to $money$.
If you could manufacture 500,000 reels a year —- and save maybe $5 on each one —- by using a few plastic parts plus easier manufacturing processes & simpler and quicker assembly labor —- then you just made an extra $2.5M. And at the same time advertising New & Improved, Quieter, Lighter.
It is important to note that nearly every reel manufacturer of any given reel —- has one, or more places where a little more thinking about longevity and quality would have been better.
This is true for Mitchell, ABU, DQ, Penn, and nearly all others.
Manufacturers are fishing for Anglers with wallets — not fish. Fish don't write checks.
Best, Fred
Thanks for the info Fred.