I had a lot of parts laying around and I got a spool for a very reasonable price, so I decided to build this reel. I thought it might be helpful to post. Here is a brief version of the assembly:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture113.jpg)
Here are all the parts.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture116.jpg)
I start with the right side plate.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture119.jpg)
First, I coat the inner side of the plate with grease.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture120.jpg)
Next, I put the outer ring in place and assemble the eccentric.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture122.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture124.jpg)
Next I assemble the jack, yoke, and pinion gear.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture125.jpg)
I now install the carbon fiber washer through the gear sleeve to sit under the main gear.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture127.jpg)
Please note that all parts have been lightly greased.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture132.jpg)
Next, I set the main gear in place. Sorry for the poor photography.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture133.jpg)
Next I set the bridge in place. I lost the picture for this one, so I am only showing it after it has been set. If you need a picture to reference, you can check my other post on assembling a Penn Senator 16/0 since they are very similar, with the exception of the dog spring.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture135.jpg)
At this point, I set the assembled right side plate aside.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture136.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture137.jpg)
Now I proceed with the left side plate.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture141.jpg)
Next, I assemble the stand and frame posts.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture143.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture145.jpg)
I now set the spool in place.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture146.jpg)
Both sides of the spool have been lightly greased. The screw holes on the frame posts have also been greased.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture147.jpg)
I now set the right side plate in place and install the drags. The drags have been coated with Cal’s grease, as Alan recommends. Wipe off the excess grease.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture148.jpg)
Next, I install the star wheel and handle.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture149.jpg)
Lastly, I install the rod clamp and brace. I like to do this at the end to minimize scratches to the reel.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture150.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Penn%20Senator%2012%200/Picture153.jpg)
And here you have the finished product, ready to go get that trophy! I hope you enjoyed this short post. Although most of you are pros, I wanted to show the guys that are new at this that if I can do it, so can they. Besides, building a reel from parts gives you a great feeling! Take care, Sal
nice work, sal. sorry you had to write it twice.......
I didn't mind doing it Alan. I see a lot of take down and rebuild, I thought that this was a good idea to show a reel being built from parts that I acquired from different sources. Alan, you don't have to send me another wrench, this is not why I did it ( unless you engrave your name on it so I can hang it on my wall in my fishing room). Thanks for giving me the opportunity, Sal
I think anyone on this site would take the wrench in your post with the wood handle.
Nice job.
sal, you should have your wrench already. it is a nicer version of these, all stainless steel and cut with a waterjet instead of a laser.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN61021.JPG)
They look very nice Alan, I can't wait. Thank you!
I had a Penn Senator 116L 12/0, brand new, and i greased the HT100 drags with cal's grease. All went well, so i decided to do some testing, to see how much drag this reel can handle. I had it locked all the way to 60lb of drag at full spool, when i run into a surprising problem. The gears start skipping - with that - i stopped to lock more the drag.
Did anyone noticed this problem on Penn Senator 116L 12/0 when they hit 60lb of drag? I know Penn recommends 30lb of drag at full, but still - what happens when the spool empties on a monster shark - you still go towards that 60lb drag pressure right?
that doesn't sound good at all. did you check the gear teeth for damage? or could the pinion gear have been slipping on the shoulders of the spool shaft? alan
Quote from: alantani on May 30, 2011, 10:40:57 PM
that doesn't sound good at all. did you check the gear teeth for damage? or could the pinion gear have been slipping on the shoulders of the spool shaft? alan
I did check the gear teeth and i didn't notice any damage. I think you may be right Alan, this sounds more a problem of the spool shaft slipping on the pinon gear. Is that normal at 60lb drag? I don't notice this problem only when the drag is set that high (~60lb).
at that kind of pressure, my first guess would be the spool slipping on the spool shaft.
It might be something as simple as too much grease on the drags, they're probably slipping, these heavy duty reels tend not to do well with a heavy coat of Cals on the drags especially with that kind of pressure. Usually the tip of the sleeve will give out before the gears. I'm also trying to figure out why you would need that much pressure on that reel, 60 pounds is a lot of pressure :-\. 25 to 30 pounds would be good enough for any monster in the water and that's what that reel is ment to be fished at.
Quote from: Alto Mare on May 30, 2011, 11:46:16 PM
It might be something as simple as too much grease on the drags, they're probably slipping, these heavy duty reels tend not to do well with a heavy coat of Cals on the drags especially with that kind of pressure. Usually the tip of the sleeve will give out before the gears. I'm also trying to figure out why you would need that much pressure on that reel, 60 pounds is a lot of pressure :-\. 25 to 30 pounds would be good enough for any monster in the water and that's what that reel is ment to be fished at.
I'm sure is not from the cal's grease because sounds like a big click when that slipping happens. I understand as well what you wanna say about that high drag pressure is not meant to be used at, BUT, my point overall is that even if this reel would be kept at that 30lb drag (full spool), when a big shark would take the line off the spool the centrifugal force would create near to 60lb drag - so the problem would still be there (at almost empty spool).
The clicking part doesn't sound good at all, but still start your investigation from the drags, take them out and dry them with a rag. If that doesn't do anything you will then work your way in. Although Alan is always right, I'm hoping he is wrong this time , for your sake. If the spool is slipping on the shaft, you will need a new one.
Check the pinion for rounding. I can't even hold sixty lbs. of pressure on a reel without flying out of the boat...maybe on land, but not a rockin' boat. If you're in search of monsters than the Penn senator series is at the bottom of the list as far as innovations in drag pressure at that high of a setting. Guys like Ted Williams and those alike used them on Marlin, Tuna, Shark, etc., but I highly doubt they could hold 60 lbs. of drag... they back down on 'em. Not to be a party pooper... time to step up if you're hunting monsters. Just my opinion.
Dom
Boghy, didn't you catch that 9 foot hammer head with a 4/0 at 15 to 20 lb. of drag ? You already know what these Senators can do, I just think that 60lb. setting on land is just too high, my buddy Dom makes a good point, if you're not strapped down you could go flying off the boat.
I'm heavily involved into land-based shark fishing here in FL, and Penn are the STANDARD reels used in sandy environments, and by knowing the "limits" on these Penn reels, that would benefit tremendously people like myself. I other words, if for a new Penn 12/0 things start to get wrong after 60lb of drag (double then Penn recommends), then many of serious shark fishermen would already know what to expect when the drag pressure reach that 60lb. This is where i'm trying to confirm - IF - that's the limit for a Penn 12/0?
I understand! couldn't you experiment with braid line instead of cranking down soo much on the drag? I'm sure you could have over a mile worth of line on that reel, you won't have to worry about running out. If you do, the fish deserves to win. ;D
Quote from: Alto Mare on May 31, 2011, 01:39:24 AM
I understand! couldn't you experiment with braid line instead of cranking down soo much on the drag? I'm sure you could have over a mile worth of line on that reel, you won't have to worry about running out. If you do, the fish deserves to win. ;D
Braid is out of the equation because there is no abrasion resistance into the line. Sharks swim at the bottom of the ocean enough time to get a 400yds-500yds long line to touch something sharp enough to cut the braid.
There are two major facts here - sand, and abrasion resistance. Top-shots are OK - but experience told me, you get better chances with mono then braid, when comes to shark fish.
Overall, these are the reason why i did crazy tests - to see the limits of these Penn 12/0.
Good to know Boghy. I'm old fashioned and all of my gears have straight mono. It's a shame that you sacrificed your reel for that test, hopefully your partners will chip in to bring it back. It's only fair, I'm sure you helped everyone else by it. Let us know what went wrong on that reel ( what failed ). Thanks, Sal
Hello Boghy. I was looking around today and noticed that we never found out what happened to that reel. I know that this is an old post, but just in case you know what went wrong, would you mind sharing it with us?
Thank you!
Sal
This is my first post.
I recently rebuilt my first 12/0 and I have problems. I cleaned it up real good with the WD-40, then blasted it with some gunk out. The main reason I took it apart was because something went wrong with the eccentic lever.. When I pulled it back I could tell something came loose. I got it all back together, but the lever is still not right. It goes way too far in either direction and is resting on a side plate screw when forward. Also my anti reverse is not working after I put it back together. I am new to this and need a little guidance. I ordered a new eccentric spring suspecting it is the wrong one in the reel. The pics on this rebuild are too sketchy for a beginner.
Any help would greatly be appreciated. I also purchased a 7 disc HT-100 drag for it from scotts bt. It has a five disc setup. I sanded up the old one and applied some cals grease and it seems to be working fine. I look forward to any assistance in this matter. I plan on going on my first shark fishing trip in May and I want my gear to be ready.
Hi SH.
The lever should travel over the frame screw and not hang up on it, on most of my Penn reels the lever stops on the side plate.
I'd guess the AR dog spring fell out of place when you were assembling the reel.
Welcome aboard Shark Hunter.
You say the lever travels too far in either direction. Is the lever fitted with the stopper facing "in" towards the spool? The stopper prevents excessive movement of the lever by contacting the side plate chrome ring when engaged or disengaged.
I see a lot of Penn's with the eccentric lever reversed. :'(
boghy,
Just re-read the posts and what you are describing as "slipping" and a "click" sounds like the main gear jumped a tooth on the pinion gear. Consider that the pinion is riding on the shaft of the spool, and that the shaft is riding on the bearings/bushings. If there is enough play between the pinion gear and the shaft (wear, or design/construction so that the fit is not really close), enough pressure on it will cause the gears to move apart, and decrease the contact area on the gear teeth. With enough pressure, enough wear, and just a slight bit of "give" of the shaft, bushing/bearings, or side plate or frame distortion, that would be sufficient for the teeth to slip past each other. In machinery, this is very common in older units that have worn bushings/bearings. Once the gears slip, keeping the same amount of pressure will make the problem worse and cause premature wearing of the gears.
What you describe is not necessarily a failure of the brake system, but of something else yielding to the high pressure. It's entirely possible that no slippage would occur if the parts are all in good shape. It's also possible that the fit between the pinion gear and the spool shaft is designed looser (to better handle sand/grit going into the reel and not causing it to jam). If this latter is the case, then the "solution" would be to make the fit between the two parts closer (a costly affair).
That's an old topic, Albert. It could have been a few things. I tried to get to the bottom of it by asking Boghy afterward, what went wrong. I asked him twice to let us know, but he never got back to us :-\.
Yes, I realize the age of the thread, but was hoping to get some kind of response to see what exactly the problem was, since we never heard back. Was unaware of your contact with him.
For the more recent issue of the "eccentric lever", I assume it's the one to engage and disengage for the free spool. An image would be quite helpful.
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 28, 2012, 09:43:31 PM
That's an old topic, Albert. It could have been a few things. I tried to get to the bottom of it by asking Boghy afterward, what went wrong. I asked him twice to let us know, but he never got back to us :-\.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on November 28, 2012, 12:48:34 PM
This is my first post.
I recently rebuilt my first 12/0 and I have problems. I cleaned it up real good with the WD-40, then blasted it with some gunk out. The main reason I took it apart was because something went wrong with the eccentic lever.. When I pulled it back I could tell something came loose. I got it all back together, but the lever is still not right. It goes way too far in either direction and is resting on a side plate screw when forward. Also my anti reverse is not working after I put it back together. I am new to this and need a little guidance. I ordered a new eccentric spring suspecting it is the wrong one in the reel. The pics on this rebuild are too sketchy for a beginner.
Any help would greatly be appreciated. I also purchased a 7 disc HT-100 drag for it from scotts bt. It has a five disc setup. I sanded up the old one and applied some cals grease and it seems to be working fine. I look forward to any assistance in this matter. I plan on going on my first shark fishing trip in May and I want my gear to be ready.
Welcome Shark Hunter.
From what you're describing, sounds like something is out of place with your clutch assembly. Check the yoke, jack, springs and eccentric for wear.
I just re-read your post, it might just be the assembly.
Take everything apart again, maybe the dog didn't sit itself in place. When you screw in the bridge, set one screw and gently test the gear sleeve, see if the anti reverse is working properly.
About those thick washers, I wouldn't be sanding them, just toss them and install the new kit from Scotts.
Thank You Irish Jigger,
You nailed it on the lever being backwards. I got this reel from ebay for 150 bucks. The lever came like this. I guess I'm not the only one who doesn't know what he's doing.
On those drags Alto, I did order a new drag washer kit from scotts.
In the Schematic, it shows a seven disc setup. My new setup would not fit in this reel, thats why I sanded and greased them and put them back in. If I order new metal washers, are they thinner to fit the stack in this beast? Or should I just order a thick 5 disk drag washer set from smooth?
Thanks for all your help guys. I appreciate it.
I would post pics, but I can't figure it out.
Good call Tom, I would have never thought that someone would have actually installed it reversed :-\.
Shark Hunter, glad you figured it out. About the drag stack, the 1+7 will not work if you're using the thick metal washers that you have.
This is the set that you'll need, yes they are thinner:
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/7C-116.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/7C-116.aspx)
If you order them, get yourself another 6-116 for under the main gear.
Sal
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Sal,I buy a few reels off ebay and usually find the ones showing reversed levers and star drag with part numbers on outside go quite cheap ;) ;D
Shark Hunter, glad you got the lever sorted. I would take Sal's advice regarding the clutch,he has put a lot of these reels through his hands.
Quote from: Alto Mare on May 31, 2011, 01:01:12 AM
Boghy, didn't you catch that 9 foot hammer head with a 4/0 at 15 to 20 lb. of drag ? You already know what these Senators can do, I just think that 60lb. setting on land is just too high, my buddy Dom makes a good point, if you're not strapped down you could go flying off the boat.
Nah thats light stuff haha. Im waitin to get my makaira 50w to try and pull 85 haha. I can hold 30 no problem, and im 6'4" and 180lbs. Im just tryin to figure out how to get 60lbs off a 12/0
You guys really know your stuff about these old penns. I just started collecting in Sept. and have a 3/0,a 4/0,a 6/0, three 9/0's, one 10/0, two 12/0's and a 14/0. I have so much work ahead of me getting them back to new, mainly the drags and cleaning.
I have a new yoke, eccentric jack, dog and spring for the 12/0 I'm currently working on. I will tackle that this weekend. I think the dog spring is just done. Once I get this one in tip top shape, I will move on to the 10.
Sal, why dont you recommend sanding the old drags and putting them back in? They looked like new except for a little glazing that I sanded off with some emery cloth.
Also, do i really need the 7 drag setup? Won't the old school 5 stack reel in a 8 foot tiger?
One more thing, In the schematic, it shows a spacing sleeve between the star drag wheel and the drag stack. I don't think I have this in mine. It seems to be working fine without it.
Thanks for your help guys.
Some of the old drags contained asbestos.
More inches of contact will give you either a smoother drag at low settings or a higher max drag, a 7+1 drag is the first thing I'd do.
+1 Lee. The drags with asbestos were the thick drag washers. they were advertised as brake lining drags. I just cleaned up a 116A 10/0 for a friend that had them. I need to order new drags for his reel. Bob
I see, I guess if they are asbestos, thats good enough reason to pitch them. Any info on the spacing sleeve?
Here is the schematic:
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/116L.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/116L.pdf)
If you don't have the room, you'll be ok without it. I just checked a few of my 10/0's and I don't see any with the spacing sleeve.
Sal
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
The 10/0 here has a cap, I haven't looked at the schematic, but it may be called the spacing sleeve on it. I'll take a pic and post it later. Bob
Duh, my memory is slipping. The star is the cap. Of course the adult beverages consumed while doing this reel probably didn't help. :o
Here is a pic with the star removed.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20113h/100_0131.jpg)
Bob
Ok, I just removed the handle on a 10/0 and a 12/0 and yes they both have the spacer. The spacer is only 1/8" thick and it sits right above the last thick cupped washer, the star sits on top. You might need it when you convert the drags to 1+7. the last thing you need is the star to bottom out with a nice fish on :-\.
You could probably add a thick metal washer to add height to your stack if it bottoms out.
Amen to the Adult Beverages!
I just placed another order to scotts. It seems like every order I place is at least 60 dollars.
I ordered the two complete metal washer sets and enough drag discs for two complete reels plus two spacing sleeves.
I need to figure out how to post pics to show you guys my collection.
Any advice on rods?
I have bought a few off ebay. I have two Davis rods tha seem pretty nice. I have a 100 to 130 rated roller rod for my 10/0 that feels pretty good.
All I need is a Good Harness setup and a Kayak.
I am leaning toward a Braid Power Play Baelt and Harness, I'm still up in the air on the Kayak. What do you guys use?
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 05, 2012, 01:08:59 PM
I just placed another order to scotts. It seems like every order I place is at least 60 dollars.
I think most of us know what you mean. ;)
For those guys who want 60lb of drag, what are you using for line? 200lb test?
Come on guys,
I really need some input on a Kayak and Harness.
I know you guys have caught some big fish. I'm hoping to catch a big Tiger or Hammerhead. I will be fishing in Navarre/Pensacola come May. I'm bringing a 10/0 a 12 and a 14 just in case.
I can't wait!
Shark Hunter, I don't know much about shark fishing with a Kayak, but here is my personal input, I think you're nuts. ;D
Never mind the harness, just make sure you tie those babies in case they go for a dip ;), I deposited two nice penn reels with rods, in the Gulf side of Florida a couple of years ago on a Kayak :-\.
The reels that you mentioned, along with rods, you'll have way over $2500 worth of gear. But never mind that, just be safe out there.
Good luck!
Sal
Sal, Here the land based shark fishermen use kayaks to paddle out the baits. If the wind or currents are right people used to put the bait in a cardboard box and let them float out. Then a good pull put the bait in the water. If someone is fighting sharks with a harness in a kayak I want to see the video. ;) Bob
I only want to use the Kayak to get my bait out. My rod will be at shore. I can't think of any other way to get it out far enough to where the Sharks are. 200 yards or so, depends on the sand bars.
I was going to get an Ocean Kayak Scrambler XT, But I have seen some bad reviews about them listing to one side from the molding process not being right.
What kind of rod holder do you guys use to stay in the sand?
My wife will be holding the rod til I get back in from dropping the bait.
Hopefully, I won't get a hit until I make it back to Shore.
I'll have the drag set light, just in case.
I'm rebuilding 3, 12/0's tonight. I will post some pics.
I wish I could help but you should go to a kyak fishing web site for better answers. Kyak fishing looks like a blast, a few years ago a friend hauled a few yaks out to albacore fish, they had a good trip.
My belt and plate are made in SE Oregon by Smitty, I like the large Braid plates better but the Smitty belt is the best I've used.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 08, 2012, 08:51:17 PM
I only want to use the Kayak to get my bait out. My rod will be at shore. I can't think of any other way to get it out far enough to where the Sharks are. 200 yards or so, depends on the sand bars.
Oh OK!....that sounds better.
Maybe Makule could chime in, that old man has some experience with that type of fishing ;D
Albert?....
You can get a bait out with a boat, kayak, paddle it out on a standup paddle board or surfboard, float it out using a cardboard box or inflated balloon or garbage bag, swim it out ( kinda creepy especially at night) or cast it out. You would be surprised at the sharks near the beach between the shore and sandbar at night. I've seen some pretty big ones when wading with a flounder light at night almost on the beach. Bob
Sal,
I did what you said and replaced every thing in the reel. The yoke,jack,springs,lever,clutch springs. It didn't work.
Evidently, this is a reel made in the forty's. It has a slick side,Amber handle, No fish or boat on the side. It was so stiff, I put it all back in except for the dog and unbent spring and it works good now.
As far as the 7 drag stup, It absolutely will not work in this reel. I have tried taking out several drag washers and metal washers. It isn't happening. It makes it impossible to reel freely. The original 5 drag setup works flawlessly and thats what I'm sticking with. I have had this reel apart at least a dozen times and am tired of making new school tactics work on old school reels.
Hello Shark Hunter, the earlier reels had the fish and boat on the side, they also came with bushings instead of ball bearing. Never the less, you should have no problems installing everything that we mentioned, regardless of age. Did you purchase the thinner 7-116 washers to convert into a 1+7? I believe Scott has them as a kit. If possible, can you post some shots of what you're using and doing?
Don't get too upset about having to do it a dozen time, just in case you lose power when servicing in the future, you'll still be able to do the job ;) ;D
Sal
Quote from: George4741 on December 05, 2012, 04:13:25 PM
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 05, 2012, 01:08:59 PM
I just placed another order to scotts. It seems like every order I place is at least 60 dollars.
I think most of us know what you mean. ;)
For those guys who want 60lb of drag, what are you using for line? 200lb test?
When your gettin spooled, you want to stop what could be a fish of a lifetime. Shot on SOS theres two guys, one with a okuma makaira 80w and the other with a 50w T-REX that have pulled over 100lbs on test. Yeah i also wanna see the kayak/harness video ;D And i even swim baits ut sometimes, talk about scary :o
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 08, 2012, 08:51:17 PM
I only want to use the Kayak to get my bait out. My rod will be at shore. I can't think of any other way to get it out far enough to where the Sharks are. 200 yards or so, depends on the sand bars.
I was going to get an Ocean Kayak Scrambler XT, But I have seen some bad reviews about them listing to one side from the molding process not being right.
What kind of rod holder do you guys use to stay in the sand?
As for kayaks, the 11.5 tribe seems to be pretty good, im gonna try and get one soon. The best for bigger people seems to be the cobra fish and dive, you need to paddle a few before you decide. Rod holders, 2in pvc or galvinised ones work the best for big rods
Shark Hunter,
If a 1+5 drag is all you can fit, then it'll still be superior to the original asbestos. Do some pull tests and you may be pleasantly surprised.
The upgraded 1+7 will give him a smoother drag, I don't see any reason why he can't. The gears and clutch assembly are exactly the same today as they were 80 years ago...that's why Penn are on a league of their own ;)
5+1 beats 3+1 every time, especialy when the 5+1 is CF and the 3+1 is the old and most likely asbestos drag washers....7
+1 is even better.
Or 1+9..... ;)
There will come to a point where we start tearing the ears off supper thin eared washers but I think we have enough metal with the 9+1, we will see.
No alterations needed on this one for the 1+9, the 10/0 and up have planty of room for the standard metal that comes with the 1+7, we just need the Carbon Fiber to be a little thinner.
Then a 11+1 is a possibility. I wouldn't go much thinner on the metal washers than the .035 ones I have im my 349s and soon in one 114HN.
I would stop at 9 on this one. Hey a most Mack Trucks come with 10 gears, we could call this one "The Mack Truck" ....when we get done with our upgrades ;).
Sal,
I figured out why the stack won't fit. I had the eccentric jack behind the yoke instead of in front. (Yes, it will still work like this) I'm still learning. I need to lay off of the sauce when I'm doing this. When starting the washers. I start with a non eared washer,Right? There are only three eared washers,so If I start with a non eared, I will end up with a non eared. then the tension spring and spacing sleeve.
Yes, fiber, keyed, fiber, eared, fiber, keyed, fiber, eared........If you have room a thicker keyed washer on top is a good idea..
QuoteMaybe Makule could chime in, that old man has some experience with that type of fishing Grin
Albert?....
Lots of people here use kayaks for fishing, both to get the bait out only, and to fish off of too. Although large fish have been pulled up using a kayak (see Hawaii Fishing News for some images), for stuff like shark, it makes a lot more sense to just use the yak to take out the bait (unless being pulled around by a shark for hours is your idea of fun) and leave the rod/reel land-based.
Don't think I'd use my 12/0 for shark. The 14/0 is stronger, not to mention the larger line capacity. Since braid isn't going to be used, something like 130 mono on a 14/0 should be good for even fairly large sharks. If you hook up to some of the freight trains we have swimming around here, then a tow truck is in order.
I don't think the issue with the drag will be so much a matter of not having enough holding power. Imagine trying to hang on to even 50 pounds of drag on a beach. You may be able to do it, but likely not for very long, and the very large sharks will take looooooong runs that will last for many minutes (like maybe 20+ minutes non-stop). It's more likely that the heat from the disks will glaze the surfaces of the old asbestos type disks and then result in either loss of drag or the extremely bad, jerky, all-stop or all-go situation. Reasonably, the better approach is to add as many disks as possible so that each only contributes a little pressure and doesn't get as hot, as compared to having a few that have to contribute a lot of pressure (and generate a lot of heat in the process).
Wow!
Hopefully my first Shark won't be the freight train that you speak of.
I did get the 12 squared away last night and spooled it wth 130 lb predator mono. It is as smooth as a baby's bottom.
I will work on the 14 next, and get ready for that Train.
Sounds like you have landed some big Sharks Makule. I take it you are in Hawaii? Its hard for me to comprehend that you think a 12/0 is not big enough for shark. I am the beginner here.
I only have one 14/0, I have three 12/0's and one 10/0.
I have been trying to win a 16/0, but haven't had any luck yet.
They are so much more expensive than a 14. Are they that much more powerful?
I also hear people saying that there is other ways to get your bait out besides kayak. ( baloons, ect.) How can that work when you are against the surf and the wind is almost always blowing right at you?
That would be great if I could figure out how to get my bait way out there without purchasing a kayak, but I don't see a way around it.
check this video of a smoking penn 16/0...just want to share it if you haven't seen it yet;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb0tgmvSx5E
A balloon' box etc does depend on the current, wind etc. There can be exceptions though. On an out going tide, We have a very strong current. You can use the current to pull/Push your bait out. Otherwise its wait for a north wind . Bob
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 11, 2012, 11:54:18 AM
I have been trying to win a 16/0, but haven't had any luck yet.
They are so much more expensive than a 14. Are they that much more powerful?
The 16/0 is just a widened 14/0. Same gears, drags, etc.
I have seen that video Mel. That just goes to show, You had better have your reel in tip top shape for the big boys. I'm not saying that a penn 16 can't get spooled, but I bet that reel just wasn't serviced with new drags.
Thats good to know about the 16 just being wider than the 14 George. Its hard to beleive they cost twice as much. I guess the whole Jaws thing doesn't help.
QuoteSounds like you have landed some big Sharks Makule. I take it you are in Hawaii? Its hard for me to comprehend that you think a 12/0 is not big enough for shark
Yes, I am in Hawaii. I think the largest shark I got was about 12'. Larger ones couldn't be stopped. I have seen a 12/0 drained to about 50 yards before the line broke (90 lb Maxima).
The video showing the 16/0 smoking is not the way we fish. We have the rods in a stand that are wedged solidly into rock. If the pull is very strong, the rod is left in the stand. If the run is too long, the drag quickly gets tighter and tighter until the fish stops. We start with a very tight drag to begin with in order to prevent the fish from getting a running start. The rod in the stand will handle drag that people ordinarily cannot hold on to. My guess is that with a 12/0, we start with about 30 lbs of drag.
If he had the upgraded drags, I'm sure that shark would have been landed.
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 12, 2012, 12:56:16 AM
If he had the upgraded drags, I'm sure that shark would have been landed.
And greased with Cal's, too! ;D
I am tearing into the 14/0 and the drag washers are still greased, but they almost look like plastic. They are fairly thick too. Is this the type of drag washers a 14 uses?
There wer many materials used throughout the years with Penn and all other reels... now it's carbon fiber.
Go to smoothdrag.com for an upgrade and she'll sing beautifully again ;)
Dom
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 13, 2012, 03:54:59 AM
I am tearing into the 14/0 and the drag washers are still greased, but they almost look like plastic. They are fairly thick too. Is this the type of drag washers a 14 uses?
It sounds like these are the old asbestos disks, and the grease is what leaked on to them. Looking like plastic is what happens when asbestos disks meet pressure and heat (i.e., the surface glazes over and becomes hard). The disks are about 1/8" thick.
I know yall probably are exposed to this fishing, but a 14' hammer is cllose to unstobbable with out tying in to another reel. 16/0s being spooled is not unheard of. Ive pulled 30+lbs before on drag(locked down 9/0p lus gloved hand gripping spool). Im doin a 1+7 upgrade as soon as i can get a frame to. I fish with a guy who has the T-REX 50 and ive seen him hold 60lbs on a 8ft hammer. Spun him around when he did the runnin man but thats it. Also snapped a 50-130 tunastick
What is a T-Rex 50? An International? Do I need one instead of the 14/0's I'm Hoarding? A properly serviced 14 will bring in any giant if you have the muscle. I think a penn 14/0 is the shiznit!
A !6/0 holds more line, but if I cant turn a monster with a 14, He deserves to go on his way.
The "T-Rex" is Avets strongest reel series.
I've pulled in a 10' hammerhead on a Senator 9/0 with braid, but he eventually twisted the frame and it was all over. Had a good amount of line left over from the run, but the overall reel strength wasn't quite enough after about 45 minutes into the fight.
The 14/0 has stopped everything on the other end ,so far, although a guy told me he pretty close to got spooled when using 200 lb. of braid (few months ago). Didn't think it was a shark because the speed was too fast. Anyway, we can (and do) apply more than 30 pounds of drag when the fish is running, and keep increasing the drag until the fish stops, something breaks, or we run out of line. Let me tell you, breaking 200 lb test of braid on a straight pull is an "exciting" experience and not for the faint of heart. It's no longer is a matter of feeling great to have a large fish on, it becomes clear that there is
real danger involved and safety is the first priority. Definitely a challenge, but not quite what one might consider fun.
Quote from: Bunnlevel Sharker on December 14, 2012, 01:15:24 AM
I know yall probably are exposed to this fishing, but a 14' hammer is cllose to unstobbable with out tying in to another reel. 16/0s being spooled is not unheard of. Ive pulled 30+lbs before on drag(locked down 9/0p lus gloved hand gripping spool). Im doin a 1+7 upgrade as soon as i can get a frame to. I fish with a guy who has the T-REX 50 and ive seen him hold 60lbs on a 8ft hammer. Spun him around when he did the runnin man but thats it. Also snapped a 50-130 tunastick
IF you start out fishing 30# of drag with a full spool you will be up to 45# of drag at half spool and 90# of drag with a near empty spool. Depending on the line strength you are using something may "let go" if you don't start to decrease the drag pressure at some point. It is a fine line between getting spooled and something breaking (hook, line, reel, or rod).
I wish I could come to Hawaii and do some fishing with you Makule.
I plan on fishing in the Pensacola area of Florida in May with My 14/0.
I have a 160 to 200 lb 6' rod and a Braid power play belt and Harness. I am going to spool it up with 200 lb braid and 50' of 200lb mono top shot with a Ken anderson rig. 480lb cable with a 20/0 circle hook. I'll be using ladyfish or cownose stingray for bait.
Kayak it out about 200 yards and drop it with an 8 oz pyramid sinker for weight rigged to break away when I get a fish.
Hpoefully it will be a 6 to 8' hammerhead or Tiger.
Not tryin to be that guy but you need a better rig than that, last thing we need is a bunch of press about some guy gettin dragged in. Go on sharksonthesand.com join and do some research. And i can tell you, a 14/0 will not bring in every monster
It did many years ago, way before our upgrades. Fish over 2000lb has been caught with these.
If I ever get lucky with one of those monsters, I hope I'm holding a Senator.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 14, 2012, 01:13:02 PM
A properly serviced 14 will bring in any giant if you have the muscle. I think a penn 14/0 is the shiznit!
A !6/0 holds more line, but if I cant turn a monster with a 14, He deserves to go on his way.
I'm inclined to agree with you. In addition, I think a narrower reel is less likely to have it's frame twisted out of shape. Narrow reels distribute stress more evenly on the frame and bearings.
Quote from: Bunnlevel Sharker on December 16, 2012, 02:33:43 AM
Not tryin to be that guy but you need a better rig than that, last thing we need is a bunch of press about some guy gettin dragged in. Go on sharksonthesand.com join and do some research. And i can tell you, a 14/0 will not bring in every monster
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 16, 2012, 02:40:06 AM
It did many years ago, way before our upgrades. Fish over 2000lb has been caught with these.
If I ever get lucky with one of those monsters, I hope I'm holding a Senator.
I think a skilled angler could catch just about any reasonable fish on a large senator. It takes proper technique. However, I'm definately not one of them.
QuoteI have a 160 to 200 lb 6' rod and a Braid power play belt and Harness. I am going to spool it up with 200 lb braid and 50' of 200lb mono top shot with a Ken anderson rig. 480lb cable with a 20/0 circle hook
I agree with bunnylevel sharker. I wouldn't want to be tethered to a reel with that size main line and terminal tackle when a 14' shark is on the other end. This is why we don't hang on to the reels, but leave everything in a stand until we are sure we can stop the initial run and then control what is happening. I'm convinced that very large sharks don't even know they're hooked until maybe when they're just next to shore. Before that, they're probably just cruising thinking they're up against some strong current (i.e., not trying to run away from anything).
If I was doing this type of fishing I would have a Fighting Chair welded to the back of a Pick Up Truck.
Hey Shark drag this around for a while. ;D
I have a question that's always been bothering me.....when fishing braid or other assorted line that's somewhat abrasive...I mean not smooth like mono...how long will the rod guides last before you groove them and start cutting line? Seems like if you have 40+ lbs of drag going out at lightspeed something is gonna get abraded and eventually cut...... Would this be a worry on roller guides as well as regular guides?
Quote from: TARFU on December 16, 2012, 05:28:17 PM
.......................how long will the rod guides last before you groove them and start cutting line?
....................... Would this be a worry on roller guides as well as regular guides?
This question is better answered by the rod builders here but from my experiance with braid, I fished Dacron long before Spectra came around, here is what I "think".
I've seen small diameter spectra cut mid quality guides on a friends kokanee rod, no other guide dammage that I have seen. Hollow untreeted Spectra (like JB Line One and Izor) is actualy soft and not as abrasive as some solid braid. If a rolller is froze up even mono eventualy dammages them and if thin Spectra gets off of a roller and is on the shaft I'd think it might dammage a roller quickly.
I have seen the wind blow Spectra around a rod tip just before a fish hit and made a run cut the tip off 2 rods.
I like to set up albacore trolling rods with 100 yard topshots, high viz, to reduce the wind related problems. I'm in the Pacific NW and we fish the often rough NE Pacifis and chop combined with swell and wind causes spectra to flop around too much, I like to leave a little mono on the reel when the spread is set.
Quote from: Alto Mare on March 03, 2011, 03:05:56 AM
I had a lot of parts laying around and I got a spool for a very reasonable price, so I decided to build this reel. I thought it might be helpful to post. Here is a brief version of the assembly:
The above quote is from Sal. Who else do you know that has enough spare parts around to build 12/0? ;) Does anyone have some spare parts around, I want to build a 16/0? ;) ;D Dominick
Quote from: Pescachaser on December 16, 2012, 08:25:26 PMDoes anyone have some spare parts around, I want to build a 16/0? ;) ;D Dominick
I have some spare screws 110-60 if that is any help ;D
i've got some big rings but i don't know which reel they go to.
What color handle would you like on that reel? Looks like we have everything covered but the spool and stand :(.
There might be someone here that could probably help us with the stand :-\
It really depends on the type of guides you are using. I normally use ceramics with roller tip top and first guide. For small game, it's all ceramics. Braid doesn't groove ceramics (as long as I've used it). Roller guides are not ceramic, but hardened SS. If they don't roll, they'll eventually groove, like other non-ceramic materials.
Quote from: TARFU on December 16, 2012, 05:28:17 PM
I have a question that's always been bothering me.....when fishing braid or other assorted line that's somewhat abrasive...I mean not smooth like mono...how long will the rod guides last before you groove them and start cutting line? Seems like if you have 40+ lbs of drag going out at lightspeed something is gonna get abraded and eventually cut...... Would this be a worry on roller guides as well as regular guides?
I said Ken Anderson rig, I meant Joe Anderson.
as far as getting dragged in, I can always cut the line if I can't handle it. I do plan on being tethered to an unmovable object. The Harness uses you lower body to muscle the fish, If I'm in a chair, I can't do this. Anything fun is Dangerous. No Guts,No Glory!
The main problem is you need heavier cable. For bigguns 3/32 min. Also cable can be cut by a shark. I have no prolem being harnessed up to a big fish, but the lines gettin cut or the drag loosened if i start gettin dragged to much
I was only kidding, but if it can go together I will build it, offer it for sale and donate the money to Alan's favorite charity. After I use it once of course. :) Dominick
Seriously though,I may be able to help with the stand but not the spool which I understand is as scarce as hen's teeth.
i can get them new for you dom.cheers
Quote from: wallacewt on December 17, 2012, 10:56:49 AM
i can get them new for you dom.cheers
Sou can get new 16/0 spools? How much?
Ok...I have a lot of stupid questions.. Why lube the Bakelite/plastic parts. Is this to collect salt deposits?
No, to keep it out. Try for yourself, have one reel with a light coat on the plates and one without. See which will need a new clicker toungue and clicker spring sooner.
I get it now. To fill in the spaces between parts?
I rebuilt my 14/0 last night. It has a chrome bridge. Is this an upgrade? or did they come like this? Also,under the sleeve, I used a 12/0 drag washer instead of a big one. It is the same diameter as the original thin washer.
Can you guys tell me how to post pics? I can't figure it out.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 27, 2012, 10:51:54 AM
I rebuilt my 14/0 last night. It has a chrome bridge. Is this an upgrade? or did they come like this? Also,under the sleeve, I used a 12/0 drag washer instead of a big one. It is the same diameter as the original thin washer.
Can you guys tell me how to post pics? I can't figure it out.
My 14/0 also has the chrome plated bridge. It's not an upgrade as far as I can tell.
My recollection is that the washer between the sleeve and main gear was slightly larger on the 14/0. Doesn't make too much difference since you'd want to change that to a CF disk anyway, in which case, just use the same diameter as the brakes.
Thanks Albert,
I am on a two week vacation, and have been rebuilding reels like crazy. I have my second 14/0 on the way.
I have a 9/0, a 12 and a 14 all spooled up with new drags and rods ready to catch some big sharks.
I decided to go with straight 130lb mono on the 14. This will eliminate the topshot, so I can tie on my rig directly.
I am afraid the knots won't pass through the rollers on my rod. It is a 160 lb, 6' Okiaya rod. My wife got it for me for Christmas.
I have some really nice rigs. 6' of 480 lb cable, double crimped with 20/0 circle hooks.
1500 yards of 100lb power pro on the 9 and 100 lb mono on the 12.
I also have a nice 6/0 high speed on a Penn Mariner rod.
Thats four complete rigs ready to rock, with backup reels for each rig.
For most shore based fishing, we use mono, including fairly hefty stuff. We always attach at least 10' of very heavy leader line (e.g., 250 lb mono) before the hook, and another 1' of SS wire to the hook (if you want to catch sharks). We find shark skin can abrade through mono, and the teeth will cut the mono easily. For other game fish, we'll leave off the wire so that the shark will cut the hook off and we don't need to struggle with it as long.
You need a longer leader than 6'. some of my casting leaders are that length. That would make a good bite section, now you just need at least a 15ft running leader of 400lb+ mono
400 lb mono? I'm not trying to catch Moby Dick! I have a spool of Billfisher 200 lb that should work just fine.
Albert,
I have my second 14/0 all done and ready to go. I put the aluminum power handle on it and it looks pretty sweet. I have my first one on a boss hoss 160lb rated rod. The problem I am having is the rod reel seat isn't thick enough to handle the 14/0. I shimmed it up with some really tough rubber lagging that we use to coat the machine drums at my work. It should work fine considering the reel braces have this baby in check. I have recently aquired a cherry 16/0. What rod do I need to get to match up to this beast? The shorter the better. I want to be able to work the fish, not pump it with a rod longer than 5'6".
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 09, 2013, 04:57:34 AM
400 lb mono? I'm not trying to catch Moby Dick! I have a spool of Billfisher 200 lb that should work just fine.
I don't shark fish but I'd say the 400lb is not for breaking strength it's for abrasion.
+1 Lee. Sharks have a tendency to roll up in the leader. Thats why the chafing leader is longer than the shark targeted usually. Some people use 15 to 20 feet of .95 weedeater line instead of 400lb mono. Bob
If your seat is too small, I wouldn't use that rod :-\
It clamped in the reel seat OK, its just the diameter of the rod. It is less than 1/4 of an inch that the rod clamp didn't touch the rod.
I tried registering on SOS to get some input on this. I can't get an email back.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 23, 2013, 09:15:51 AM
It clamped in the reel seat OK, its just the diameter of the rod. It is less than 1/4 of an inch that the rod clamp didn't touch the rod.
I tried registering on SOS to get some input on this. I can't get an email back.
Try again, im a member there. Weve had a few site problems. That 200lb will get abraded through. The other guys are right, the 400lb+ is for abrasion resistance
Wow!
After reading some of my first posts. You guys sure have a lot of patience. If I ever win the Lottery. The next Royal Star trip will be on me and you all will be invited! Thanks for all your help guys and I am trying to pay it forward to newcomers who were like me. That's what this site is all about! ;)
Well, i will be adding a 12/0 in the next month or so. Its about 3yrs old and been fished once. I will need some help with double dogs this winter ;D And Daron, dont worry. We still love you. I hate to imagine what i was like when i first go started on fishing forums :o
I saw your post on the dragmaster thread. Why is it spooled with 100? I have mine currently spooled with straight 130lb and use a 30' 400 lb sliding trace leader with 12' of wire or cable crimped onto that.
Elwin has his spooled with 600 yards of 200 lb JB, then topped with 150lb grand slam, and you see what his can do! ;)
I looked to spool one of mine the same way, but that JB cost a fortune! $200 for 600 yards! :o
That's what I paid for the reel!
Where did you quote the jb from? And a lot of people use 100, close to 1000yds of line
Ok, I take that back, Its $119.99 at alltackle. 600 yards of 200 lb JB Hollow.
How do you splice this stuff to mono? I know the mono goes inside, but then what?
Do you tie it?, glue it?
I think I'm going with Elwin's setup. If you want to fish 100lb. Go for it. I just know with straight 130, this thing is a Beast! That's what Sharkgirl used on her 14 and 12 at the BHC this year and she did pretty good.
I don't mean to be a copycat, but I don't have anyone close to me to teach me the tricks of the trade.
I have to learn it online. ;)
After you finish inserting it up about 5-6ft then you serve over the mono end and uses little super glue on the tip to stop fraying. I am going to replace it with 600yds of 130 jb to 130 mono when I respool. In nc it's not as much about abrasion as it is capacity for the most part
Shark Hunter,
Check out the thread on mono to holow core connections.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8645.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8645.0)
There are some good, relatively simple knots, but I prefer the splice w/ needle kit and glue. There are some good instructional videos on the net too. It looks harder then it actually is.
I was rooting around in a box of crusty old reject parts & frames ... I had a vague recollection there was an old big senator in that box and stumbled across really nice condition 10/0 side plates, posts, stand, and some salvageable parts. 2 perfect trim rings, 2 missing...i have the eccentric jack.. and the pinion gear is rusted to the spool shaft, but no sign of the steel main gear and bridge.. it was probably a rust ball
Ok guys... stupid question time... I should know this but....
If a 115L is 9/0 ..... and a 116L is a 12/0 ....... where does the 10/0 fit in, a 115.5L ??? ???
the 10/0 is labled 116A
Quote from: erikpowell on March 01, 2014, 08:23:27 PM
I was rooting around in a box of crusty old reject parts & frames ... I had a vague recollection there was an old big senator in that box and stumbled across really nice condition 10/0 side plates, posts, stand, and some salvageable parts. 2 perfect trim rings, 2 missing...i have the eccentric jack.. and the pinion gear is rusted to the spool shaft, but no sign of the steel main gear and bridge.. it was probably a rust ball
Ok guys... stupid question time... I should know this but....
If a 115L is 9/0 ..... and a 116L is a 12/0 ....... where does the 10/0 fit in, a 115.5L ??? ???
10/0 parts are hard to come by Erik. That stand you have is one of the most important pieces of the puzzle. It Basically just a narrow 12/0. Everything will interchange, except for the spool, posts and stand.
Hello Everyone!
I've been reading this forum recently as I've gotten more into Penn reel repair. It's a lot of fun, and this forum has been really helpful.
Currently I am helping a friend fix up a Senator 12/0. The person he got it from had done "maintenance" on it, and the crank wouldn't turn the spool.
I took the reel apart and did a full service job on it. Here is the part I'm confused about:
- I took off the handle and star. There was no spacing sleeve (part 9 on schematic). After the tension washer, there was only one metal keyed washer instead of two (schematic shows two). Then the normal stack sequence started, though some had been put in out of order.
- After that I took the main gear and underlying fiber washer off the gear sleeve. Under the fiber washer there was a ring that looks a lot like the spacing sleeve (part 9) in the schematic. It fit perfectly around the gear sleeve and is brass colored.
- Now that the rest of the maintenance has been done, I've added an extra keyed washer to the top of the drag stack (top of stack is now perfectly flush with rim of main gear) and tried using that ring I took off the gear sleeve as the spacing sleeve. Now the star just barely screws on to the gear sleeve, and when I max the drag there is a space between the star and the side plate.
Does anyone have a picture of the gear sleeve for this model reel? Or pictures of the parts on top of the drag stack? Suggestions?
Thanks you! Glad to be a new member to the community :)
- Adam
This sounds familiar.
Take a look at this more complete schematic from Scott's
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assetse/images/pennparts/schematics/116l.pdf
(https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/116l.pdf)
You'll notice there have basically been 3 different stock drag stack configs over the years, and depending on the version and space available in the gear and within the side plate you may have to add a keyed washer or 2 to the top of the upgraded 7 stack to make up the space. Try removing the collar, keep the 2 keyed washers on top of stack and check the star travel and drag performance. Basically you want near 0 drag tension with the star backed all the way off (and no binding of the stack w/the side plate), and have it to just start to develop tension when you begin tightening it. This will give you max drag range before bottoming out. If that doesn't work you can try removing one keyed and add the collar, or one keyed and replace with a thicker old style metal washer (if available). Sometimes when a drag stack is upgraded only the Asbestos drag washers have been replaced with the new thinner Carbon Fiber discs, and the older/thicker metal drag washers were retained, sometimes all were changed. This leads to changes in the overall stack height, which can require a little adjusting to obtain the full drag range and performance. Typically I replace all metal and CF drag washers when upgrading, add a keyed washer (or 2 to the top), and remove the collar when upgrading the drag stacks on 12/0 and 14/0s. Make sure the under gear washer is in good condition as well.
Alan prefers a CF here, I've been using stock, SharkHunter and others are starting to use Delron washers here.
Hope this helps?
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Take a look around the senator section Adam. There are lots of pictures you can use as a reference.
adam, welcome!!!!!
Thanks for the wisdom gentlemen. The best configuration so far is taking out the extra drag washer and leaving the sleeve in. I can't get to the bottom range of the drag, but it gets the strong end just fine. I think the best config will be two extra drag washers and no sleeve.
Going to take her fishing tomorrow. Flag lining on the Big Island of Hawai'i. Chehoo!
I had a couple of pics yesterday but placed them on another 12/0 thread, ::) so I removed it.
This is the most common today:
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/013_zps6f548ba7.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/013_zps6f548ba7.jpg.html)
I've never experienced any problems using the spacer, but it would be better without it, just make sure the belleville is on top.
If you're going without the spacer, the two metal washers need to be above the main gear lip or the star will bottom out.
You could get there by experimenting with different thickness Carbon Fiber washers, the ones from Scott are 1.20mm, replacing a couple of those with a little thicker ones should do it. If you had to go there, adding a carbon washer on top of another wouldn't create any problem, just a thought :-\.
Notice on the pic above, my additional metal washer's ID is round, you'll get away with a keyed washer there, but that's how I like to have it, all I do is grind the ears off one of the washers.
Hey Guys..Newby here & just sharing my " Trial & Errors " :-[
I read this great thread & decided to pull out my one and only " 12/0 " Penn Reel from my storage unit. I picked it up about 15 years ago & have never personally used ( Motion Sickness Issues ), although I have loaned it out a few times to friends.
Heres a photo , after re-lubing & re-assembling.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/A-PAPI/IMG_1443_edited-1_zpse2996ef3.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/A-PAPI/IMG_1445_edited-1_zps82bb784c.jpg)
I stripped it down & to remove the old dried grease & re-relubricate the gears, etc. I had hoped to pull the bearings & re-grease & re-pack them with " Yamalube ", using my news tools. However, they were more difficult than I had anticipated.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/A-PAPI/IMG_1442_edited-1_zps9fb14687.jpg)
So, the " Bearings & Caps " were cleaned with WD-40 & Brake cleaner, then soaked in 321. I added a dabb of Yamalube grease on top, before re-assambling.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/A-PAPI/IMG_1444_edited-1_zpsa29490b5.jpg)
I was able put it all back together, & started tightening everything down,.. when one of the Reel seat bolts broke .. :o
I did encounter one major headache & almost posted a question, i.e: " When I initially disassembled the reel & removed the Bridge Plate. A small " L " shaped piece of metal fell out, near the "Dog ". I initially thought no big deal.. I'll check the schematic.. Well, I checked, but it didn't really help me on how to " CORRECTLY " replace it , without something falling out :-[
Fortunately,.. I was able to locate one of Alan's " Tutorial " ;)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/A-PAPI/1_05_05_09_8_03_03_4_zps4b5936a3.jpeg)
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=208.0
Took me another " 2 hrs " fiddling & jiggling with everything, for everything to fall into place, instead of falling apart !!
Thanks everyone, ..for all of the " Great Info " !!
Great looking reel..!! Be careful when tightening the screws. The may look SS but as you found out they are Brass.
The 12/0 is my favorite Penn reel. This Monster can bring in the biggest of fishes. You need any help, just ask, There are a few of us that know our way around one of these beasts! ;)
Again , thanks guys!!
I don't know when ( ? ) I'll ever use it for Saltwater Fishing.. ?
My friends have teased me ( Motion Sickeness ), and have made offers to buy it ( Rod & Reel Combo ), since I don't do any " Saltwater Fishing ".
I've told them " Nope.. not for sale ! It's my " Heavy Gear " for " Alligator Gar / Paddle Fish / Sturgeon / Blue & Flathead Catfishing " ;D
Here is another 5 year old thread that I enjoy looking at. This is where I started and The same guys that helped me are still here. I wonder where boghy is now? There are a lot of members that are a flash in the pan. Wanting a part or advice and then never seen again. I just wanted to say thank you to all the veterans here that make this site great. I try to give all I can back. ;) Here is your reel boghy, Wherever you are.
The Shark Hunter
Daron that's a very cool looking rod..!!
There is only one Berzerker!
Alex of Berzerker rods hand crafted this one. He does the same type of fishing that I do.
It wasn't originally made for me, but I ended up with it.
I have been really wanting a rod with a detachable butt, a short stuart #4 in particular, just for being more portable, but I really think the blank through the handle is the way to go.
This is a Baja Boomer. Very old school. Goes way back with Calstar.
Quote from: handi2 on August 01, 2015, 11:44:05 PM
Daron that's a very cool looking rod..!!
X2, love that custom stuff! and, its GREEN ;D
Yeah alex makes some sweet rods
I use these older threads so often for tips and advise. This one is a favorite...Daron's first post...and his learning to tweak reels...makes me look at 12/0s for sale. And although I have no need for one of these beasts...I reckon I'll be holding one someday! 8)
No catfish can escape a 12/0 mo. ;)
With some groceries under the hood, This $200 reel is a powerhouse.
I love them.
I love 'em too Daron. I've been watching 9/0s and up pretty close lately...I'll eventually find a few that fit my budget. I'm more interested in the older models, mostly as collectibles. But you know how we are...I'll be under the hood...installing new groceries! ;) ;D 8)
Quote from: mo65 on May 04, 2017, 01:53:51 PM
I love 'em too Daron. I've been watching 9/0s and up pretty close lately...I'll eventually find a few that fit my budget. I'm more interested in the older models, mostly as collectibles. But you know how we are...I'll be under the hood...installing new groceries! ;) ;D 8)
big cats like to wrap around logs and a big senator you can pull the bottom up ;D
I just got back from a two week trip in Florida.
I only spent about four nights fishing for Sharks, but it was 8 hours each time until the wee hours of the morning.
The only thing I pulled up was the bottom of my beer. ::)
I had the best bait, tackle and fishing partner.
I haven't given up. At least I was fishing for the Beast I'm after.
I'll be back in four months to try my luck again.