First I want to thank Alan and the contributors that make this a great website. I've used tutorials to rebuild my shimano spinners and found it very helpful.
What I have now, and couldnt find an answer doing a search is a TLD 5 bought as a basket case. After taking it apart, cleaning and greasing it, I still have 2 problems:
1. When I adjust the drag preset to where I want it at strike, if I go over strike the handle becomes very hard to turn. (It also goes from zero drag after many turns of the knob to a good amount of drag tension instantly, with the above problem.)
2. The clicker button was very hard to move in and out, which I assumed was corrosion. But after pulling apart, greasing, and putting it back together, it's still hard to manipulate, and it barely catches the clicker gear, mostly freewheeling.
I have pulled it apart and put it back together several times and the problem still exists. All help is appreciated, thanks.
the clicker problem could just be from the frame swelling over time. you might need to file down the back side of the left side plate to loosen it up a little. careful, not too much!
resistance when you crank the handle in gear is most commonly the right main side plate (pinion) bearing. the knob problem i am not sure about. you should get a gradual increase in drag pressure as you turn the preset knob.
let's get the clicker fixed and the right main side plate bearing changed out first, then look at it again. can you keep us posted? thanks! alan
Anything but that bearing! It's corroded in place on the shaft. I thought I could skate by just packing the bearing with new grease because it turns fine.
Do you have any pointers for getting it loose without damaging/ destroying it? Thanks.
sorry, no. just tap it, very carefully....... :-\
if the bearing is that bad try cutting the race with a cut off wheel. be careful on the inner race, dont cut all the way thru, try 2 cuts then split the race. be careful not to bend the pinion shaft.
Usually the pinion will corrode and stick to the Bearing.The spool shaft should slide out of the pinion leaving the pinion stuck to the bearing.
If this is indeed the case you can adjust a vise so the pinion just slides in between the jaws with the bearing resting on the top of the jaws. Oil the corrosion with a penetrating oil and the tap the pinion out (use a something that will just fit the boar of the bearing and make sure the end is flat so you do not damage the pinion. It will usually come out easier than one would think. Replace the bearing as the tapping will cause some damage to the balls in the bearing.
Good luck,
Jim N.
Just sell me the parts, especially the frame and everybody will be happy
Update:
Thanks for all the advice. I took the dremel and lightly ground the inside of the frame for the clicker and it works perfectly.
For the bearing I got a little creative and hunted down a nail with a head big enough to cover the pinion shaft but small enough to pass thru the ID of the bearing. I dropped the nail into the shaft, grabbed the bearing, and applied pressure to the nail head with a handy little gadget used to break the glaze so you can drill a hole into ceramic tile. It has a point and as you press it compresses a spring, then as it bottoms out, it trips and snaps forward. Kinda like the opposite of a slide hammer. One shot was all it took. Bearing came off, surfaces were sanded &nd lubed. Shield on brg removed, packed with grease and back together.
However, I'm still having the same issue with the drag, only not as pronounced. Once you get past the strike button it takes significant pressure to push the lever to full drag and the handle becomes slightly harder to turn.
What's next? Thanks.
Quote from: day0ne link=topic=3643.msg26070#msg26070 =1330245386
Just sell me the parts, especially the frame and everybody will be happy
Sorry Charlie, this is my project. :)
i really think that the bearing is bad. it may feel good but im sure its bad. if the spool bearing is the same size try swaping them to see if it really is your problem.
Check the bearing on the left side of the spool. It can occasionally cause your problems. It must be completely smooth.
Quote from: akfish on February 28, 2012, 03:23:37 PM
Check the bearing on the left side of the spool. It can occasionally cause your problems. It must be completely smooth.
Is the left side bearing 'hid' under the clicker gear?
there is no bearing in the left side plate. it's a "pull" system. the only bearing on the left side is the left spool bearing. please check the right main side plate bearing again. if is is rough at all, it has to be replaced. actually, check them all for even the slightest amount of roughness. you have to be able to push down on the inside races, twist them and they all have to be perfectly smooth.
Quote from: Pescatoral Pursuit on February 28, 2012, 03:10:36 PM
Update:
Thanks for all the advice. I took the dremel and lightly ground the inside of the frame for the clicker and it works perfectly.
For the bearing I got a little creative and hunted down a nail with a head big enough to cover the pinion shaft but small enough to pass thru the ID of the bearing. I dropped the nail into the shaft, grabbed the bearing, and applied pressure to the nail head with a handy little gadget used to break the glaze so you can drill a hole into ceramic tile. It has a point and as you press it compresses a spring, then as it bottoms out, it trips and snaps forward. Kinda like the opposite of a slide hammer. One shot was all it took. Bearing came off, surfaces were sanded &nd lubed. Shield on brg removed, packed with grease and back together.
However, I'm still having the same issue with the drag, only not as pronounced. Once you get past the strike button it takes significant pressure to push the lever to full drag and the handle becomes slightly harder to turn.
What's next? Thanks.
Quote from: day0ne link=topic=3643.msg26070#msg26070 =1330245386
Just sell me the parts, especially the frame and everybody will be happy
Sorry Charlie, this is my project. :)
I'm having the same problem with my sld 30.if you pull barring sleeve and try to turn the thing it does not turn smoothly ,I bet that's your problem as well replace it and try again.
Quote from: Pescatoral Pursuit on February 28, 2012, 03:10:36 PM
However, I'm still having the same issue with the drag, only not as pronounced. Once you get past the strike button it takes significant pressure to push the lever to full drag and the handle becomes slightly harder to turn.
Are you sure you don't have the drag adjusted too tight? Back off the knob on the right side plate (while in freespool) and see if it doesn't change
Quote from: alantani on February 28, 2012, 06:04:21 PM
there is no bearing in the left side plate. it's a "pull" system. the only bearing on the left side is the left spool bearing. please check the right main side plate bearing again. if is is rough at all, it has to be replaced. actually, check them all for even the slightest amount of roughness. you have to be able to push down on the inside races, twist them and they all have to be perfectly smooth.
i am really sorry i meant to say right.
Quote from: day0ne on February 28, 2012, 09:54:18 PM
Quote from: Pescatoral Pursuit on February 28, 2012, 03:10:36 PM
However, I'm still having the same issue with the drag, only not as pronounced. Once you get past the strike button it takes significant pressure to push the lever to full drag and the handle becomes slightly harder to turn.
Are you sure you don't have the drag adjusted too tight? Back off the knob on the right side plate (while in freespool) and see if it doesn't change
I'm curious how the frame broke on yours. I'll be using mine to catch bait for sharking but it may serve double duty for live baiting tarpon. That is, if it's not gonna break on me.
I have a couple of the larger models that work fine, and am familiar with the drag adjuster. What happens here is if you adjust the knob so when you come off freespool with barely enough drag to not freespool, then slide the drag to strike, you have much more drag comparitively than the bigger reels. From there it takes some effort to lock it in full drag and you can definitely feel resistance when you turn the handle.
One thing I did notice from the tutorial is there was no spring under the drag aduster knob on my reel. Dont know if that makes a difference or not.
G'day PP,
If it helps, only the Charter Specials (and larger TLDs) have the spring under the drag preload.
There shouldn't be one on the smaller TLDs, ie 5, 10 or 15.
All the best, Justin
Quote from: Pescatoral Pursuit on February 29, 2012, 01:27:36 AM
I'm curious how the frame broke on yours. I'll be using mine to catch bait for sharking but it may serve double duty for live baiting tarpon. That is, if it's not gonna break on me.
I have a couple of the larger models that work fine, and am familiar with the drag adjuster. What happens here is if you adjust the knob so when you come off freespool with barely enough drag to not freespool, then slide the drag to strike, you have much more drag comparitively than the bigger reels. From there it takes some effort to lock it in full drag and you can definitely feel resistance when you turn the handle.
One thing I did notice from the tutorial is there was no spring under the drag aduster knob on my reel. Dont know if that makes a difference or not.
The frame didn't break. Someone drilled a hole where the click button went for an adjustable mag unit and messed it up. A different frame is the easiest fix.
The other thing that will cause what you're seeing (besides a really bad bearing) is the cam isn't in correctly. The reel must be in freespool when the cam is inserted or it will ramp up too quickly. Try removing the drag adjusting knob, the cam and the lever. Then reinstall the lever, and push it down into freespool. Make sure it's all the way down against the stop and holding the button down, then reinstall the cam and knob. See if that helps. If not, then look at the pinion bearing
Update-
Took the reel to the local shop and was told basically "that's how they roll". Did a little more research on this site, and it seems if I replace the dry canvas drag washer with a greased carbon one, it will allow a little more range.
So now I'm wondering if the bellevilles have to be fiddled with also.
P.S. The bearing seems to be okay.