I've started converting a black plated 112 3/0 into a 2/0 size using custom stainless stand, frame spacers and a 29L-85 spool. The 111 2/0 and the 112 3/0 use the same gear set as the 113 4/0 used to make "Grouper Special" reels. I thought a smaller reel with the same gears would suit braid better (The term 'Bait Special' was suggested by Rudy (RowdyW) when I asked what a small diameter grouper special would be called after Mo65 posted photos of his "River King" 99 width 259 & I couldn't think of a better name :D)
I started with an international 30-20 stand and had the mounting bolt holes and half moon disks welded in to give somewhere for the rod clamp to screw in. Thanks to Ray (superhook) for the disk idea when I made a 349 stand using an international stand.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_17_59.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_19_24.jpeg)
As you can see it took a bit of work on the bench grinder and files to get it somewhere close to what I needed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_20_51.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_22_20.jpeg)
Oops - hit post instead of review.
The spacer rings were made using the same process for a longbeach 60 frame made a while back - hacksaw. grinder and files.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_34_58.jpeg)
The next step was to make some spacer bars. To use the 5-40 screws, the spacer needs to be at least 5mm thick to give a 1mm clearance either side of the screw - I used a piece of 40 mm wide 6mm 316 stainless bent around a 60 mm dia rod. We needed a bit of heat to do this.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_36_13.jpeg)
Used a belt sander to 'square' one end for reference and mark the spacers.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_38_46.jpeg)
Cut the segments with a thin cut-off wheel and then square the 2 pieces on the bench grinder;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_39_34.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_40_28.jpeg)
I then marked out and drilled the holes to reduce some of the weight;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_41_28.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_42_25.jpeg)
I did a test fit to make sure it was going to work before I went any further.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_43_21.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_7_44_10.jpeg)
The spool spins OK, thats a good start! - but I'm out of time for now. I'll follow up when I make more progress.
Mike
I'm diggin' this! Nice work...bet it turns out great! 8)
He's at it again! :o
awesome
A working reel slowly emerges from hunks of twisted metal... artistry!
Good stuff mike, talented patient work, looking forward to the end result, should be, nice strong reel, consitering what you started with. cheers Don, Mail in the post, this evening.
Lots of talent here in creating some of the most unique reels out there and all done by hand.
Don't ever stop doing this Mike. Thanks for the entertainment!
Sal
This is terrific Mike - great work!
Looking forward to the next post.
Cheers, Justin
Mike, that's a lot of great hand work. Your a patient man!
......................Lou
Wow. Nice work. You're a talented guy Mike.
-steve
Thanks for the encouragement guys - I hope to get a bit more done later in the week.
I had a bit happening when I started this thread and with the distractions I ended up putting it in the international section instead of the senator section. (the use of a modified international stand probably doesn't qualify the reel as an international :D) I'm not sure how these things work, but could one of the moderators move it to the senator section without too much trouble?
Mike
Quote from: mhc on June 13, 2017, 11:58:08 AMcould one of the moderators move it to the senator section without too much trouble?
Mike
Done! No problem at all! Mike, please elaborate on the half-moon disks. I can imagine their purpose but am not sure. Thanks.
Sid
That Int stand is designed to be mounted to an Int tube frame, which has separate threaded holes for clamp studs. What Mike did was weld in discs to the fill the hourglass contour which he will then drill and tap to accept clamp studs for the 2/0 width.
Thanks for that Sid.
Good point about the disks - I knew what I was thinking but should have explained it for the rest of us. They are to fill in the cutouts in the stand to give somewhere for a rod clamp to screw into. The international T stands have the cutouts to reduce weight and the rod clamps screw directly into the reels frame. When I used one of these stands to make a 349 stand, I screwed 'lugs' onto the spacer disk to attach a clamp and was looking for an easier way.
A photo of the 349 stand.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_6_28_17.jpeg)
Thanks again,
Mike
John's explanation is correct and quicker - you beat me to it ;D
I figured you might be asleep this time of day down there Mike!
farmer56 here for some reason pictures did not show up... im using a dell chrome book .... any ideas... sorry now they show up
Thanks, Mike. I was looking at the welds not knowing there was a cutout in the original stand. Now I get it.
Sid
Damn this is neat work!
Don't want to miss this one
I had a few spare hours today and made some progress with the side rings and spacer bars. I trimmed the rings to length and tidied them up a bit, ready to sand and polish.
I said earlier the spacer bars need to be at least 5mm thick to take the 5-40 screw holes, but the bars don't need to be that thick for the full length. I have ground a couple of mm off the back with a bench grinder to make them a bit lighter;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_32_24.jpeg)
I also used a half round file on the ends to remove some material between the screw holes;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_28_37.jpeg)
Mike
Dang, those came out nice!
Coming along real nice Mike. Looking forward to seeing it all polished up and assembled. Another unique piece for the arsenal!
PS - Jigmaster parts arrived today. Thanks heaps.
No problem at all Chris, glad they got there before the weekend - hope you get time to use them. Good to see you back on deck, or off deck and back on land might be more like it. ;D
Thanks Sid, I should have weighed the spacers beforehand - but they feel a fair bit lighter now.
Mike
The parts aren't for me Mike, for another SS frame Jigmaster conversion I'm doing for someone down here. Will get some pix up when its put together. Then I might be able to finish my JM's and get onto other projects.
The more I look at those cross bars, the more I like them, and appreciate the work that has gone into them.
Talking about the rod clamp studs - the Penn 33-113 clamp (as well as some other Penn clamps) use 10-24 UNC thread studs while a few tiburon and accurate clamps I have use 8-32 UNC studs. I decided to go with the polymer 33-113 and 10-24 thread for corrosion resistance compared to an aluminium tib or accurate clamp - and that's what I had on hand :).
I used the bench grinder and belt sander to make some narrow lock nuts that will fit inside the spacer rings
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_33_41.jpeg)
I also ground the head of the 10-24 screw to about 2mm thickness - as it turned out that wasn't enough to clear the spool. I'll need to think about that a bit more, the holes in the stand are threaded so I could cut the head off completely if it comes to that.
I haven't mentioned I used 6-40 screws to attach the spacer rings to the stand and 5-40 for the rest. The heads of the 6-40 needed to be ground down to fit flush with the spacer rings.
The frame components sanded and semi polished - i'm not sure if I will fully polish it, I don't want to spend too much time on the reel. ::)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_34_35.jpeg)
And the assembled frame;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_35_17.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_36_04.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_6_21_56.jpeg)
And with the rod holder studs installed - showing the head of the stud sitting too high;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_37_04.jpeg)
And the narrow lock nuts inside the spacer rings;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_38_16.jpeg)
I assembled the reel again to check how things were sitting before I started to make any modifications to the bridge. It still spins freely in certain positions, but a small side to side adjustment of the spool will cause a slight rub of the spool, luckily when it's centred it's OK. I'm thinking it's probably a slight twist in the frame the way it was put together this time, with all custom parts the order of assembly and tightening the screws etc can make a difference to how things sit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_39_21.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_07_07_17_5_40_00.jpeg)
I think that's about it for the frame - the next step is to make a few changes to reel itself.
Mike
Looking good, Mike. The talent on this site amazes me. If we all put our heads together we could make and market one helluva reel!
Sid
What you have done here, without a lathe or mill, is really inspiring. This is truly a "hand made" frame in every sense of the word. Great work! If you want the frame parts polished, send them down to me and I'll get it done for you.
Is there such a thing as skill envy? If so I have it reel bad right now.(pun intended). All that with basic tools. Craftsmanship.Love it.
Thanks again guys, the real inspiration comes from the countless projects, upgrades and experiments that have been going on here since Alan started this site.
Chris, I'll take you up on your offer to polish the frame.... AFTER you have finished your projects - including the daiwas. ;) :)
Mike
Quote from: mhc on June 19, 2017, 08:51:52 AM
Chris, I'll take you up on your offer to polish the frame.... AFTER you have finished your projects - including the daiwas. ;) :)
Mike
Errr, that'll be a few years then..... ::) :D
Chris, how are you, what is involved in the polishing, can you share, thanks cheers Don.
Hi Don,
For sure, I can put up how I go about it, although a professional polisher would turn in his grave, and wouldn't even be dead yet! I am very busy at the moment, but I will get something up ASAP.
I have put some detail in the 6/0 thread and also here.....
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=14008.0
But I will add to one of these threads with a bit more detail soon if you are interested. Just need a little time at the minute.
If you do a google search for polishing stainless steel, that will give you a good overview of what's involved. I just adjust the process to suit my needs and what I have access to.
The process is as simple or as complicated as you make of it depending on the acceptable to you quality you want in the finished product.
wow now that awesome!!!!!!!!! very cool!!!!!!!
Chris, your jig master project, is very informative, and with fine text detail, well done, thanks for your fast reply, yes Mike is a very generous man, I have been on the end of his generosity, with the Penn 349 I posted, True Aussies, ay, cheers Don.
I have decided to try a 4/0 3-113 bridge with Sal's grouper special gear combination of a 5-149 main and 13-113H pinion, to increase the gear ratio from 2.3:1 to 2.6:1.
A bit of background to the choice; The stock 112 3/0 & 111 2/0 Senators both use the 3-66 bridge with a 5-66 main gear (32 teeth) and 13-49 pinion (14 teeth) which gives a gear ratio of around 2.3:1.
The 113 4/0 uses a 3-113 bridge and a 5-66 main with a 13-113 pinion with a gear ratio of around 2:1. A few members here were making narrow 113 4/0 'grouper specials' and putting the 3-66 bridge and gears in the 4/0 to increase the speed a bit. The 3-66 bridge was not a perfect fit but close enough to work - then Sal came up with the 5-149 and 13-113H gear set on the 3-113 bridge to make his 2.6:1 grouper special.
If the 3-66 fit in 113, the 3-113 bridge with Sal's gear combination should fit in the 112 if I enlarge the gear space for the slightly larger 5-149 gear.
The 3-113 bridge, 5-149 and 13-113H gear set with one of Bryan's 5 stack drag upgrades for the 5-60 gear, a 10 tooth black pearl gear sleeve and double alternating dogs;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_40_58.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_42_04.jpeg)
And the side plate after I enlarged the space for the 5-149 main;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_44_38.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_3_45_43.jpeg)
There is not as much material in the plate as I thought - this was not going to be as straightforward as I had hoped it would be. ::)
To cover the hole, I shaped a piece of bakelite from a broken jigmaster tail plate;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_17_03.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_17_52.jpeg)
I used a thick epoxy (PC.7) to hold the piece in place and fill the gaps;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_37_02.jpeg)
Used a carbide burr in the drill press to shape the plate and roughed it up a bit with sand paper;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_38_40.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_40_25.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_39_27.jpeg)
The outer ring needed to be shaped to fit around the added piece;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_41_25.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/17/7995_06_07_17_5_42_20.jpeg)
A quick test fit showed I need to remove a little more from the plate - the gear fits but still rubs in one place.
Mike, that is so cool! I would love to sit next to you at your workbench and just observe while you experiment.
Nice job!
This is why you never throw anything out.....but try explaining that to our other halves!
Keep it coming Mike.
Great improvisation!
Great stuff Mike, looks like it was manufactured that way, thanks for sharing, cheers Don.
Thanks again guys, I'm thinking the 'patch' should hold up - it shouldn't be under much load.
Sal, it would be great to have you around while I'm messing around with this stuff, I reckon your experience would save me a heap of time. I pulled the bridge out at least a dozen times to work out why the gears weren't free turning until I finally thought to try another pinion and solved the rough feel. I can't remember where I got the first pinion from, it was used but looked OK by eye and closer inspection showed a few damaged teeth that gave the rough feeling like the gears were catching somewhere.
Mike
Fantastic work Mike. Can't wait to read your next post.
Quote from: David Hall on July 07, 2017, 02:23:46 PM
Fantastic work Mike. Can't wait to read your next post.
x2
This is some really cool stuff right here! I love seeing the way guys around here can modify reels....Keep it up!
Mike
Quote from: Rothmar2 on July 06, 2017, 08:58:31 PM
This is why you never throw anything out.....but try explaining that to our other halves!
Keep it coming Mike.
x2
My wife will be canonized for putting up with my projects ::)
Awesome work Mike - I loving it :)
I've been waiting for some 5/8" and 3/4" countersunk stainless 5-40 screws to finish putting this reel together.
I had a spare set of stainless 6-40 bridge screws I had modified when building my Cortez jigmasters;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/7995_18_07_17_1_32_52.jpeg)
I made an eccentric lever out of 2 mm stainless with a 5-40 cup head screw and rounded off nuts for the stop. This photo was before tightening and peening the end of the screw;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/7995_18_07_17_1_09_05.jpeg)
The heads of the rod clamp studs still interfered with the spool after I ground them down to around 1.5 mm so I went to plan B and removed the heads and screwed them into the stand, put blue threadlock on the round spacers and tightened the stud with the hex nut.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/7995_18_07_17_1_10_42.jpeg)
The hex nuts were removed to make room for the rod. Front view;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/7995_18_07_17_1_19_17.jpeg)
Back;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/7995_18_07_17_1_21_25.jpeg)
Side;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/7995_18_07_17_1_40_54.jpeg)
The handle was borrowed off of my stainless frame 501 until I get one of Adam's offset handles and a stainless star. The grip is one of Alan T's 3/0 size.
Mike
You've made it look factory. That is some artwork for sure. :P
This reel is currently nominated for our Ohana Calendar. It's an amazing accomplishment and IMHO deserves to be included in the calendar. Excellent job, Mike!
Sid
Thanks guys.
Sid, there are many more visually appealing reels to grace the pages of your calendar - I think this reel deserves a curious glance at best, not a month of daily viewing.
Mike
thanks Mike great job, thanks for posting, you have entertained us, and educated us, I would look @ your reel on a calender for a full 12 months and more, cheers Don.