Recent posts

#1
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on Today at 06:26:38 PMSo I keep circling back mentally to the recent experience at the shop. Specifically that the person who was strongly in favor of mono backing to avoid slipping, tying an arbor knot with braid that ultimately failed completely. Not slipping on the spool, the tag end slipped thru and the knot was history. Complete failure.

I've been beating around the bush here because I hate insulting anyone. The point I'm circling around is that he felt that mono was necessary to prevent slipping, because he might not be that good at tying knots in general.

Sounds like a DIY project  .  Here just in case .https://www.animatedknots.com/fishing-knots#ScrollPoint
  I know you wear flip flops or go bare foot .   Yes friendly banter .    :d  :d
#2
Photo Gallery / Re: Penn 113 HLW make over
Last post by Bryan Young - Today at 09:59:38 PM
That is slick!!!
#3
Welcome! / Re: Alasgun; New guy
Last post by foakes - Today at 09:39:11 PM
Welcome aboard!

Best, Fred
#4
Quote from: jurelometer on Today at 05:55:19 PMThanks Joe for the thoughtful reply.  I think I better understand where you are going with this.

I am going to answer line by line again . I think it will help grasp what I am trying to convey for those who read this .   You don`t have to take my word as the Gospel Truth , all you have to do is test it for your self .  Since this is theory , there is no stupid questions ,so please ask them .   We all learn from them .

I think that  following observation is useful for a successful arbor knot:
           Answer Back a page or two I left what appears as a telephone number ,it`s in  two places ,it is the answer on how to view a knot.   Yes you can use your phone keypad for the answer .       Get the bolt or smooth rod and 2 foot of string ready so you can prove to yourself some theory can be changed to fact. 


If you tie the arbor knot to tighten as you wind, the line tension increases the grip on the arbor.
               Answer yes  again detail  knot direction .

 BUT...  with a fuller spool,  the friction between all the wraps prevents any pulling load from reaching the arbor. And since braid has very little stretch compared to nylon, once the spool is filled, there is little residual tension in the line to pull on the knot     
                   Answer So what was the target drag to start to spool with ?   For easy math let`s say 100 pound braid , 25-50 -75 pounds drag? 

So the arbor knot just sits there,  probably a bit less tight then when we started and not getting any tighter when we pull line from the filled spool. 
       Answer  why would it be less ,it`s target drag  from the fill spool.   Detail The first layer goes side by side tight from end to end .


Now the effect of pulling on the line is  more  like gripping the arbor knot and its coils with a pair of channel locks and turning  the whole tie off around the arbor.   

The trick that seems to works for me is wrapping over the tag end as Jerry Brown recommended, and is shown in the video below.

Not exactly certain as to why it might work, but I think that the compressive load from the fill presses the tag against the arbor  at many points along the axis instead  of around the axis. The knot cannot rotate without taking the sideways tag with it.
 Answer  I disagree with the start of line  going over the arbor.   The ones who are testing with the bolt and string can test this also.   The tag end is the band aid ,like a strip of tape .  Why cut the tag so short, come back to the knot 180 degrees 2 strip band aid .     He needed to rap most /all of the arbor first to do a pull test.
   If he did two wraps and pulled , Ops .   

My theory was  that the specific knot is not as important as wrapping over the tag properly.   But to be honest, I haven't done any rigorous testing to prove that the tag (or knot) is the key vs just doing a better job on the spool fill.  I tried it all together. Too much work to do a bunch of spool fills to prove a theory. Answer  We can bust the myth , we can scale back the size of the reel and spool and put the heat to it .   I have a couple OC 112 for test mules .


-J
#5
Zebco / Re: Nylon oscillation clip 863...
Last post by foakes - Today at 09:24:34 PM
Hi Joe —-

I think that the nylon block would last likely 20-30 years in a "6", provided the reel gets just a basic service every few years.  So you would be probably OK with the plastic resin oscillation clip.

However, a lot of 6-7's are used in tougher conditions —- and a metal clip block would be superior.

With a 3 or 4, I wouldn't be so concerned —- but it is your call.

Here is a complete new factory arm and metal block.  $20 total, including shipping, to you ($15 + $5).  Everything is solidly attached already as a unit with no resin, or plastic pieces.

Best, Fred
#6
CorrosionX oil comes in 16oz pump bottles for the red label (oil) version, the green labeled stuff is more like a grease.  If you can't find it locally Ketcham Supply in New Bedford Mass could probably ship it out to you.  If you want a bunch 55 gallon drums are available.
#7
Shakespeare / Re: I need information on a 20...
Last post by Steve V. - Today at 08:21:37 PM
Quote from: foakes on Today at 05:41:26 PMHere is the screw for that 2052, Steve —-

Along with a bail spring.

This is basic reel repair 101 —- errors that most of us have done at one time, or another.

We figure since the reel is cruddy inside —- that the 5/16" hex head steel screw is just stuck to the bronze main gear.

So we force it since we have it in a socket or a nut driver —- not realizing until too late that it goes on counter-clockwise and comes off clockwise.

Screw snaps off in the main.

When disassembling vintage reels —- always be aware of this possibility of a reverse-threaded keeper screw.

Tread carefully, because these are not easy parts to find anywhere, for any price — without some effort, and luck, and waiting.

Send me your address, and I will send it out tomorrow.  N/C.

Best, Fred

Thanks Fred!!!! I have learned two valuable lessons. First, find a video or post that shows how to do what I am getting ready to do. Why reinvent the wheel. Second, with an old reel that has dried up/gunked up grease in it spray some penetrant in it to soften everything and scrape as much out as I can with toothpicks and/or cotton swabs before any teardown. I'll PM you my address.

Thanks again!,

Steve
#8
Zebco / Nylon oscillation clip 8631 fo...
Last post by PhillyJoe - Today at 07:54:02 PM
Picked up a nice clean Cardinal 6 on ebay, lured in by discussion on this site. Didn't take much persuading, I admit...

Sadly and unsurprisingly, the nylon oscillation arm clip is broken. Maybe that is why the reel looks mostly unused?

There is a seller on ebay who has the part for $15 + $5 ship, which would be worth it to me to get this baby back up fishing but I am curious if there are any current suppliers of metal clips?

Somewhere on this site, I believe I read an old post discussing this issue and pointing to a guy in the UK, I believe.

There is another seller making 3-D printed replacements but I question the shear strength of printed parts based on past experiences. They also do not have the integral metal sleeve of the originals.  (edit--Seller is Mike's Reel Repair and material listed as "engineered resin" so maybe I'm underestimating the part. Also looks milled rather than printed to my unexpert eye.)

Any suggestions or should I just bite the bullet and go for the easy ebay replacement, OEM style part?
#9
Soooo, the take-away for me is 1) don't let someone else tie the line to spool knot, nor should I trust the "shop" to wind it right, much like I don't trust mechanics and have to inspect everything they do that I can see. Use a self tightening knot, faced the right way. Maybe de-line it more than I wanna and check or re-do the knot and lower coil tightness.

Guy did my timing belt(including pulleys, hoses, radiator fluid, water pump and thermostat), but he didn't use what I expected him to with the fluid I bought. Overheating light came on a week latter. He didn't TAKE THE TIME to "burp" the cooling system, and over the next 3 days, I added about a gallon.

Difficult to tell if lug nuts are tight once the vehicle is off the lift/jack. The weight of the vehicle might put pressure on the wheels/loose nuts making them seem tight.

Guy in the 1st video complained about braid wrapping on the rod tip. One has to untwist about 100' of braid every couple of trips, especially if there's been any trolling.
#10
Welcome! / Re: Alasgun; New guy
Last post by Reeltyme - Today at 07:08:15 PM
First of all, welcome to the family.
 As for your Orvis question, I can attest to the quality of the Mitchell as well as the Quick. Nothing produced today of comparable price is made as well. As for the Orvis, I would pass to Midway Tommy. I don't believe they made a spinning reel he hasn't seen and worked on.
Although I am very fond of Mitchell reels in general, if I were to fish with one of the choice, I would probably go with the Quick.