So, the Avet website says to actually dunk my SX MC reel in a bucket of water, rather than just rinsing it. This will for sure get the spool bearings (and the rest of them) wet. I've done like they said every time I get back from fishing but I don't like it. Any thoughts on this? Does any other reel makers suggest rinsing, or should I say soaking your reels this way?
I would not dunk any of my reels but maybe I should tell my clients too ..................... actually they do enough damage with the hose. Just do a light rinse of the spool and maybe a list mist of the frame, wipe dry and if you want wipe with some WD. If you do make sure drag is on. IMO that works for me.
Cheers:
Todd
I actually do dunk my reels at the end of a long -- 15 day -- trip. This helps remove any internal salt, and I know that I will do a complete service when I get home. It works for me.
not sure that's the best choice. first, the reel needs to be properly serviced with a light coat of protective grease all throughout. if you don't do that, water (or salt and water) will stick to those unprotected surfaces. this is an avet mxj raptor master cast.......
Wow Alan, that reel is a train wreck.
My albacore charter boat has a spray bottle of diluted "salt away" and they spray the reels at the end of every day. I gotta say, those reels all still look as new
Interesting, may look as good as new on the outside, but as Alan has demonstrated, not good on the inside, really there is know easy way, but to service regually, cheers Don.
OK, no more dunking for my reels. I thought it wasn't such a good idea the second time I did it. I then realized that my bearings were getting wet and that wasn't going to help casting distance any. I'm not going to worry about salt build up, I'll fish this reel 30 times this year, max and then tear it down like the the rest of them and then clean, grease and oil. I know since I've learned how to maintain all of my reels, my problems have been close to zero.
Quote from: alantani on February 10, 2021, 12:48:08 AM
not sure that's the best choice. first, the reel needs to be properly serviced with a light coat of protective grease all throughout. if you don't do that, water (or salt and water) will stick to those unprotected surfaces. this is an avet mxj raptor master cast.......
Yikes!
If you drill the side plates full of holes the water can easily drain, the air circulation will let it dry, and you can oil the moving parts from the outside before the next trip. No, I'm not kidding.
I hear the Avet casts well. But, as a broad generalization, star drag reels tend to cast better than lever drag reels.
-steve
I spent years placing my rods and reels in the swimming pool and they stayed pristine, inside and out. Now that I don't have access to a swimming pool, I use a hose. I prefer the pool as it did a better job and I went longer between service intervals (think years). Dunking works.
Salt is the enemy.
Freshwater is the best solvent for salt. Freshwater does not damage 440c stainless that is used for reel bearings. But saltwater does. Same goes for anodized aluminum.
The combination of salt (or more accurately any chloride) and moisture is was causes the corrosion, especially where dissimilar metals contact.
I am a firm believer in giving any saltwater reel that can drain and dry out well a good soak in freshwater and then let dry it out, in a couple position if necessary. I think that storing a reel in a case or or neoprene cover is not a great idea whether you soak or rinse. The lower the humidity, the better your odds for preventing corrosion.
If you do soak, a pool or jacuzzi is not the best choice. Highly chlorinated water is corrosive, just like salt water. It is the chlorides, after all. Warm tap water will dissolve and dilute the salt a bit faster than cold water.
There are numerous threads that go around and around on this topic, and nobody seems to be changing their mind. The non-soaking side has more adherents, but they are still wrong :)
Both sides agree that a proper pre-service, and regular maintenance is the key, whichever side you end up on.
-J.
I think Dave summed it up best. You can do what ever method you want (dunk, rinse or maybe nothing) if you pre service (a new reel) and perform regular maintenance after use. I have guides that have brought me reels in horrible shape but with yearly service I'm only having to replace or repair parts that wear (pawls etc) or parts that broke from an accident (dropped etc).
Cheers:
Todd
Quote from: oc1 on February 10, 2021, 07:22:00 PM
If you drill the side plates full of holes the water can easily drain, the air circulation will let it dry, and you can oil the moving parts from the outside before the next trip. No, I'm not kidding.
I hear the Avet casts well. But, as a broad generalization, star drag reels tend to cast better than lever drag reels.
-steve
I read somewhere that Avets are made to drain water but I can't find it now.
Quote from: jurelometer on February 10, 2021, 09:20:13 PM
Salt is the enemy.
Freshwater is the best solvent for salt. Freshwater does not damage 440c stainless that is used for reel bearings. But saltwater does. Same goes for anodized aluminum.
The combination of salt (or more accurately any chloride) and moisture is was causes the corrosion, especially where dissimilar metals contact.
I am a firm believer in giving any saltwater reel that can drain and dry out well a good soak in freshwater and then let dry it out, in a couple position if necessary. I think that storing a reel in a case or or neoprene cover is not a great idea whether you soak or rinse. The lower the humidity, the better your odds for preventing corrosion.
If you do soak, a pool or jacuzzi is not the best choice. Highly chlorinated water is corrosive, just like salt water. It is the chlorides, after all. Warm tap water will dissolve and dilute the salt a bit faster than cold water.
There are numerous threads that go around and around on this topic, and nobody seems to be changing their mind. The non-soaking side has more adherents, but they are still wrong :)
Both sides agree that a proper pre-service, and regular maintenance is the key, whichever side you end up on.
-J.
But, back to one of my questions. What about the bearings? Water cannot be good for them, and how could it all possibly drain out of the bearing races?
I don't think this subject is nearly as difficult as it seems. Here is Mo's "ease your mind" theory:
Salt causes corrosion...and water causes rust.
Water dissolves salt...and wind dries water.
Rinse reels in freshwater...dry in front of a fan.
I've found this simple process to work great for me. Even after opening the reel later for a better servicing I find the insides dry and clean. Don't think moving air won't reach inside the gearcase. 8)
Quote from: Breadfan on February 11, 2021, 11:57:07 AM
But, back to one of my questions. What about the bearings? Water cannot be good for them, and how could it all possibly drain out of the bearing races?
Freshwater is the best solvent for salt.
Freshwater does not damage 440c stainless that is used for reel bearings. But saltwater does. Same goes for anodized aluminum.
Grease in the bearings also protects from water intrusion.
Quote from: Breadfan on February 11, 2021, 11:57:07 AM
But, back to one of my questions. What about the bearings? Water cannot be good for them, and how could it all possibly drain out of the bearing races?
I've noticed that when a reel is accidentally dunked in seawater the casting bearings work better for a while. Maybe water can be a lubricant too. But the spinning bearing can whip a little water and a little oil into an emulsion. For whatever reason, the mayonnaise-like emulsion slows the bearing down a lot.
Quote from: Breadfan on February 11, 2021, 11:57:07 AM
But, back to one of my questions. What about the bearings? Water cannot be good for them, and how could it all possibly drain out of the bearing races?
I repeat: Salt is the enemy, not water. Stick a stainless spoon in a glass off freshwater for a week or two. You won't see any corrosion.
440c stainless has about the same level of freshwater corrosion resistance as the 18-8 stainless that is used for silverware. But 440c has much less saltwater corrosion resistance. If saltwater got into the bearing (or anywhere else), it will leave a residue of salt. Soaking (not just a quick dunk) in warm fresh water will help to dissolve and dilute the salt. If the majority of the soaking water is removed (not evaporated) there will be less salt left. A bit of freshwater residue will not hurt the stainless and will eventually evaporate.
BTW: Grease between the bearing and aluminum housing is especially useful. Replacing a bad bearing is not a big deal, as long as the bearing is not corroded into the side plate. Tight crevices are the hardest to desalt, even with soaking.
-J
FWIW- After a salt water trip all my rods and reels go into the shower with me....then regular maintenance after that. I usually have to remove them before the wife sees them, but they get a good soaking with soap and hot water......Bill
there's always the dishwasher....... ;D
Quote from: alantani on February 11, 2021, 10:49:59 PM
there's always the dishwasher....... ;D
Just get it done before the boss comes home !!! ::)
Quote from: Bill B (Tarfu) on February 11, 2021, 10:42:56 PM
FWIW- After a salt water trip all my rods and reels go into the shower with me....then regular maintenance after that. I usually have to remove them before the wife sees them, but they get a good soaking with soap and hot water......Bill
I am personally not a big fan of using soap.
Soap will degrade the grease and oils, and does not help dissolve salt. Fresh water is all you need. If the water is warm, all the water molecules zip around faster increasing the chance of wandering into a salt molecule, so warmer water is more efficient than cold water.
If you need some soap to clean all the fish blood and slime off your reel, it is best to avoid getting any on the inside.
-J
Quote from: alantani on February 11, 2021, 10:49:59 PM
there's always the dishwasher....... ;D
I won't go there...I think we all know how that turns out....🤣🤣🤣
Boss - Please don't wash the good beer, wine, or scotch glasses in the dishwasher! Reels....well...surfactants may be a good thing for them but dishwashers are pretty much...evil?
Quote from: day0ne on February 11, 2021, 07:47:08 PM
Quote from: Breadfan on February 11, 2021, 11:57:07 AM
But, back to one of my questions. What about the bearings? Water cannot be good for them, and how could it all possibly drain out of the bearing races?
Freshwater is the best solvent for salt. Freshwater does not damage 440c stainless that is used for reel bearings. But saltwater does. Same goes for anodized aluminum.
Grease in the bearings also protects from water intrusion.
i think my real question was what the effect the freshwater had on the thin oil I use for the bearings. My bearings are ceramic, I'm not worried about corrosion, I'm worried about performance. I think I should keep my reels clean and just re-oil the spool bearings after each trip, if I dunk them, just for peace of mind.
Quote from: Brewcrafter on February 12, 2021, 05:51:15 AM
Boss - Please don't wash the good beer, wine, or scotch glasses in the dishwasher! Reels....well...surfactants may be a good thing for them but dishwashers are pretty much...evil?
the only expensive glasses i have are the glencarin canadian whiskey glasses. yes, those are always hand washed!!!!! ;D
Quote from: Breadfan on February 12, 2021, 01:09:54 PM
Quote from: day0ne on February 11, 2021, 07:47:08 PM
Quote from: Breadfan on February 11, 2021, 11:57:07 AM
But, back to one of my questions. What about the bearings? Water cannot be good for them, and how could it all possibly drain out of the bearing races?
Freshwater is the best solvent for salt. Freshwater does not damage 440c stainless that is used for reel bearings. But saltwater does. Same goes for anodized aluminum.
Grease in the bearings also protects from water intrusion.
i think my real question was what the effect the freshwater had on the thin oil I use for the bearings. My bearings are ceramic, I'm not worried about corrosion, I'm worried about performance. I think I should keep my reels clean and just re-oil the spool bearings after each trip, if I dunk them, just for peace of mind.
Aren"t full ceramics bearings supposed to be run dry for maximum performance? Or are you lubricating to extend bearing life?
If you are using a thin film lubricant like TSI 301 or 321, it has already bonded to the bearing surfaces . Part of the purpose of these products is to repel water.
https://tsi301.com/issynthetic.htm (https://tsi301.com/issynthetic.htm)
If you are using a different oil that is not recommended for use in wet environments, it is not a good choice to begin with. And a decent bearing oil has to make a fairly strong bond with the bearing surfaces, otherwise centrifugal forces are going to fling it all off during casting.
If you are using an oil and not a thin film lubricant, a strong jet of water might displace it.
I need to relubricate oil lubed casting bearings much more frequently than my annual maintanence. I haven't noticed a change in the frequency of relubing since I switched to soaking. I just use TSI after I run out of whatever came with the reel, so I am not familiar with all the oils.
-J
Quote from: Brewcrafter on February 12, 2021, 05:51:15 AM
Boss - Please don't wash the good beer, wine, or scotch glasses in the dishwasher! Reels....well...surfactants may be a good thing for them but dishwashers are pretty much...evil?
Why??? Dominick
not sure, but i'll follow the brewmeister's instructions!!!!
;D Don`t you guy`s watch tv ... The bar tender wipes the glass clean with his apron NO washing .
Quote from: oldmanjoe on February 13, 2021, 12:09:43 AM
;D Don`t you guy`s watch tv ... The bar tender wipes the glass clean with his apron NO washing .
We'll soon change that.
Dishwashing detergents used in automatic machines tend to incorporate the use of surfactants, compounds that specifically break down the surface tension of water so that it sheets off or runs off in the rinse cycle for that "spot free shine". The problem with those compounds is that they are pretty tenacious; the intent is that they stay "bonded" with your dishes during the rinse cycle to encourage the water to run off (and not leave droplets that would then leave spots in the drying cycle). The problem is that they continue to break down the surface tension of everything else that comes in contact later. This is something that you can see pretty easy (and I am also not so subtly encouraging everyone to have TWO of their beverage of choice in the name of science - you may thank me now :D)
Take two glasses for your favorite beer, wine or spirit. Very thoroughly hand wash, and rinse heavily, then allow to dry ONE of them. Have the second glass be straight from the dishwasher.
1. Beer - Pour a beer into each glass. It helps if it is a "real" beer that actually has some body to it, nothing with the word "Light" in the name :D. Most likely you will notice that the head on the beer in the dishwasher glass will quickly fade. A truly "beer clean" glass will have a residue from the foam in a series of levels starting at the top of the glass and going all the way down, a heavenly phenomena called "beer lacing" that shows the beer level from every sip taken.
2. Wine or Spirits - If you are into those beverages (I do love me an occasional glass of Port) you may have either done this or seen it done where the liquid will be swirled in the glass. This has a number of functions, but the one here that I would want folks to observe is visual - if you hold the glass up to the light and look at the way the wine or spirit runs back down the side of the glass after being swirled, it is a phenomenon called "legs" or sometimes "Irish Tears" where because of the surface tension in alcohol (this works better with stronger wines or spirits) the beverage has a very pronounced speed and way that it slides back down the side of the glass. Since again this is a function of surface tension, any glass that has any of these residues absolutely kills this effect. Do this with enough different wines or spirits, you will begin to notice differences between different ones.
I have a feeling I am going to be doing a visual demo on the Saturday night Zoom call. - john
like i said, i'll stick with the brewmaster!
Quote from: Brewcrafter on February 13, 2021, 06:07:03 AM
you will notice that the head on the beer in the dishwasher glass will quickly fade.
OK, I'm sold.
I haven't used water to rinse off a reel in decades. Especially an Avet which is the easiest reel on the planet to open up, clean, & and lube. YMMV
Why not just finish with a 6 to 8 turn Uni, unwrapping the loop to form pretty much a nail knot. This is how I finish biminis.
Oops, posted on the wrong thread while reading recent posts.
Wow. You never know what you're gonna learn here. Good stuff Brewcrafter. Those surfactants that break down the surface tension godda have residue going into your gut?
Yes, I've always been SOOO concerned about those embarrassing spots 😡.
Quote from: Brewcrafter on February 13, 2021, 06:07:03 AM
Dishwashing detergents used in automatic machines tend to incorporate the use of surfactants, compounds that specifically break down the surface tension of water so that it sheets off or runs off in the rinse cycle for that "spot free shine". The problem with those compounds is that they are pretty tenacious; the intent is that they stay "bonded" with your dishes during the rinse cycle to encourage the water to run off (and not leave droplets that would then leave spots in the drying cycle). The problem is that they continue to break down the surface tension of everything else that comes in contact later. This is something that you can see pretty easy (and I am also not so subtly encouraging everyone to have TWO of their beverage of choice in the name of science - you may thank me now :D)
Take two glasses for your favorite beer, wine or spirit. Very thoroughly hand wash, and rinse heavily, then allow to dry ONE of them. Have the second glass be straight from the dishwasher.
1. Beer - Pour a beer into each glass. It helps if it is a "real" beer that actually has some body to it, nothing with the word "Light" in the name :D. Most likely you will notice that the head on the beer in the dishwasher glass will quickly fade. A truly "beer clean" glass will have a residue from the foam in a series of levels starting at the top of the glass and going all the way down, a heavenly phenomena called "beer lacing" that shows the beer level from every sip taken.
2. Wine or Spirits - If you are into those beverages (I do love me an occasional glass of Port) you may have either done this or seen it done where the liquid will be swirled in the glass. This has a number of functions, but the one here that I would want folks to observe is visual - if you hold the glass up to the light and look at the way the wine or spirit runs back down the side of the glass after being swirled, it is a phenomenon called "legs" or sometimes "Irish Tears" where because of the surface tension in alcohol (this works better with stronger wines or spirits) the beverage has a very pronounced speed and way that it slides back down the side of the glass. Since again this is a function of surface tension, any glass that has any of these residues absolutely kills this effect. Do this with enough different wines or spirits, you will begin to notice differences between different ones.
I have a feeling I am going to be doing a visual demo on the Saturday night Zoom call. - john
Okay,
So I got a little lost. Shouldn't be a big surprise really. I like good beer. Real beer. Shiner Bock from Shiner Tx is my first choice. I don't know if they still offer the guided tour through the plant, but I have heard that it was a great tour !
When fishing salt water, I'll spray my reels down before I go. Just a little spray of Kroil oil and wipe it off. I'm sure there are a lot of things out there for that purpose.
When I come back, I'll soak my reels in fresh water for about a week in a 5 gallon bucket. Just setting in the sun. Just walking by, I'll give them a vigorous shake or thrashing in the fresh water.
After that, light spray of Kroil if I think it needs it ?
Anyway,
So, was this a vote against the salt away chemical(s) ?
Mic
Quote from: Mic on February 15, 2021, 04:21:37 PM
Quote from: Brewcrafter on February 13, 2021, 06:07:03 AM
Dishwashing detergents used in automatic machines tend to incorporate the use of surfactants, compounds that specifically break down the surface tension of water so that it sheets off or runs off in the rinse cycle for that "spot free shine". The problem with those compounds is that they are pretty tenacious; the intent is that they stay "bonded" with your dishes during the rinse cycle to encourage the water to run off (and not leave droplets that would then leave spots in the drying cycle). The problem is that they continue to break down the surface tension of everything else that comes in contact later. This is something that you can see pretty easy (and I am also not so subtly encouraging everyone to have TWO of their beverage of choice in the name of science - you may thank me now :D)
Take two glasses for your favorite beer, wine or spirit. Very thoroughly hand wash, and rinse heavily, then allow to dry ONE of them. Have the second glass be straight from the dishwasher.
1. Beer - Pour a beer into each glass. It helps if it is a "real" beer that actually has some body to it, nothing with the word "Light" in the name :D. Most likely you will notice that the head on the beer in the dishwasher glass will quickly fade. A truly "beer clean" glass will have a residue from the foam in a series of levels starting at the top of the glass and going all the way down, a heavenly phenomena called "beer lacing" that shows the beer level from every sip taken.
2. Wine or Spirits - If you are into those beverages (I do love me an occasional glass of Port) you may have either done this or seen it done where the liquid will be swirled in the glass. This has a number of functions, but the one here that I would want folks to observe is visual - if you hold the glass up to the light and look at the way the wine or spirit runs back down the side of the glass after being swirled, it is a phenomenon called "legs" or sometimes "Irish Tears" where because of the surface tension in alcohol (this works better with stronger wines or spirits) the beverage has a very pronounced speed and way that it slides back down the side of the glass. Since again this is a function of surface tension, any glass that has any of these residues absolutely kills this effect. Do this with enough different wines or spirits, you will begin to notice differences between different ones.
I have a feeling I am going to be doing a visual demo on the Saturday night Zoom call. - john
Okay,
So I got a little lost. Shouldn't be a big surprise really. I like good beer. Real beer. Shiner Bock from Shiner Tx is my first choice. I don't know if they still offer the guided tour through the plant, but I have heard that it was a great tour !
When fishing salt water, I'll spray my reels down before I go. Just a little spray of Kroil oil and wipe it off. I'm sure there are a lot of things out there for that purpose.
When I come back, I'll soak my reels in fresh water for about a week in a 5 gallon bucket. Just setting in the sun. Just walking by, I'll give them a vigorous shake or thrashing in the fresh water.
After that, light spray of Kroil if I think it needs it ?
Anyway,
So, was this a vote against the salt away chemical(s) ?
Mic
Let me see if I have this, use a good beer to rinse your reel, do I need to dunk it first in beer? ;D
I have seen some new reels with lot of holes for the water to run off and some with seals to keep the water out.
Does it matter which type of reel you have to either dunk/rinse?
Quote from: Gobi King on February 15, 2021, 05:22:14 PM
Quote from: Mic on February 15, 2021, 04:21:37 PM
Quote from: Brewcrafter on February 13, 2021, 06:07:03 AM
Dishwashing detergents used in automatic machines tend to incorporate the use of surfactants, compounds that specifically break down the surface tension of water so that it sheets off or runs off in the rinse cycle for that "spot free shine". The problem with those compounds is that they are pretty tenacious; the intent is that they stay "bonded" with your dishes during the rinse cycle to encourage the water to run off (and not leave droplets that would then leave spots in the drying cycle). The problem is that they continue to break down the surface tension of everything else that comes in contact later. This is something that you can see pretty easy (and I am also not so subtly encouraging everyone to have TWO of their beverage of choice in the name of science - you may thank me now :D)
Take two glasses for your favorite beer, wine or spirit. Very thoroughly hand wash, and rinse heavily, then allow to dry ONE of them. Have the second glass be straight from the dishwasher.
1. Beer - Pour a beer into each glass. It helps if it is a "real" beer that actually has some body to it, nothing with the word "Light" in the name :D. Most likely you will notice that the head on the beer in the dishwasher glass will quickly fade. A truly "beer clean" glass will have a residue from the foam in a series of levels starting at the top of the glass and going all the way down, a heavenly phenomena called "beer lacing" that shows the beer level from every sip taken.
2. Wine or Spirits - If you are into those beverages (I do love me an occasional glass of Port) you may have either done this or seen it done where the liquid will be swirled in the glass. This has a number of functions, but the one here that I would want folks to observe is visual - if you hold the glass up to the light and look at the way the wine or spirit runs back down the side of the glass after being swirled, it is a phenomenon called "legs" or sometimes "Irish Tears" where because of the surface tension in alcohol (this works better with stronger wines or spirits) the beverage has a very pronounced speed and way that it slides back down the side of the glass. Since again this is a function of surface tension, any glass that has any of these residues absolutely kills this effect. Do this with enough different wines or spirits, you will begin to notice differences between different ones.
I have a feeling I am going to be doing a visual demo on the Saturday night Zoom call. - john
Okay,
So I got a little lost. Shouldn't be a big surprise really. I like good beer. Real beer. Shiner Bock from Shiner Tx is my first choice. I don't know if they still offer the guided tour through the plant, but I have heard that it was a great tour !
When fishing salt water, I'll spray my reels down before I go. Just a little spray of Kroil oil and wipe it off. I'm sure there are a lot of things out there for that purpose.
When I come back, I'll soak my reels in fresh water for about a week in a 5 gallon bucket. Just setting in the sun. Just walking by, I'll give them a vigorous shake or thrashing in the fresh water.
After that, light spray of Kroil if I think it needs it ?
Anyway,
So, was this a vote against the salt away chemical(s) ?
Mic
Let me see if I have this, use a good beer to rinse your reel, do I need to dunk it first in beer? ;D
I have seen some new reels with lot of holes for the water to run off and some with seals to keep the water out.
Does it matter which type of reel you have to either dunk/rinse?
No, no, no. I think what he's sayin is rinse your bearings in beer, let dry naturally and just skip the oil.
Ok, seriously. I have ceramic balls and metal races, I use REM oil on them. REM oil is for guns, is very thin and I thought what the heck. It normally makes my bearings in my old Dawia's so fast, takes on a whole new learning curve. So I guess I should probably just stop being cheap since I spent all of this money on this reel and bearings and get the proper oil.
Quote from: Breadfan on February 15, 2021, 06:05:01 PM
Ok, seriously. I have ceramic balls and metal races, I use REM oil on them. REM oil is for guns, is very thin and I thought what the heck. It normally makes my bearings in my old Dawia's so fast, takes on a whole new learning curve. So I guess I should probably just stop being cheap since I spent all of this money on this reel and bearings and get the proper oil.
I don't know anything about REM oil, but what makes you think it is undesirable? Also, why apply oil the outside but not the inside? Hybrid bearings are better than all stainless, but full ceramic are better than hybrid. Full ceramic are better when run dry, but they are noisy.
Quote from: Mic on February 15, 2021, 04:21:37 PM
I like good beer. Real beer. Shiner Bock from Shiner Tx is my first choice. I don't know if they still offer the guided tour through the plant, but I have heard that it was a great tour !
When I was in parochial Catholic school we went on a field trip to San Antonia to see missions and stuff. The highlight was a tour of the Lone Start brewery and it's Buckhorn Saloon and Museum. Memorable for sure.
Steve - That's a school I can get behind! - john
Irish Catholics have their priorities straight.
??? Time to Baptize a reel .. ::)
Quote from: oc1 on February 15, 2021, 07:22:09 PM
Quote from: Breadfan on February 15, 2021, 06:05:01 PM
Ok, seriously. I have ceramic balls and metal races, I use REM oil on them. REM oil is for guns, is very thin and I thought what the heck. It normally makes my bearings in my old Dawia's so fast, takes on a whole new learning curve. So I guess I should probably just stop being cheap since I spent all of this money on this reel and bearings and get the proper oil.
I don't know anything about REM oil, but what makes you think it is undesirable? Also, why apply oil the outside but not the inside? Hybrid bearings are better than all stainless, but full ceramic are better than hybrid. Full ceramic are better when run dry, but they are noisy.
The REM oil works fine to me. Someone said in a previous comment that today's reel oils are specialty oil designed for them and hold up to water better.
Focus
Focus
Focus
;D
Quote
I have seen some new reels with lot of holes for the water to run off and some with seals to keep the water out.
Does it matter which type of reel you have to either dunk/rinse?
Yes. As noted early in this thread. Don't soak "sealed" reels.
Sealed reels do not do that good a job of sealing. The quality of manufacturing and engineering is not that high, even on the high dollar reels. Getting a long lasting, low friction, easy-to-maintain waterproof seal on rotating shaft assemblies is no small effort. Reel makers go with "good enough." If the seals are currently holding, no saltwater got in, so no need to soak/dunk. But if the seals are mostly working, you are introducing more water into the almost sealed reel that will remained trapped inside and not evacuating any salt, but increasing the amount of moisture for an extended period of time. The sad joke is that all sealed reels eventually do a better job of keeping water in than keeping water out. It is just a matter of time and mileage.
The purpose of soaking is to expose the salt to a large amount of freshwater. The salt dissolves and disperses throughout the water, decreasing the amount of salt in the reel. But if there are just a few cracks or small holes to for the water to enter the reel, the dispersion of salt will mostly be local, and the little salt will leave the reel. Here as an experiment that illustrates:
Drop a tablespoon of salt in a gallon bucket of warm water, give it one shake, wait a minute, and the water will taste salty. Put a tablespoon of salt int a glass salt shaker and fill the salt shaker with water. Now drop the salt shaker into the bucket refilled with warm fresh water. The water will taste fresh for a long time (many hours?). Now take the salt shaker out of the bucket, drain the water out of the salt shaker into the bucket, and drop back in. Repeat a few times and the water will taste salty, proving that most of the salt is no longer in the shaker.
There are limits to how much soaking will help. It will take much longer to get a tablespoon of salt out of the shaker than a 1/4 teaspoon. And reels are not a hollow smooth shell on the inside, so salt stuck in crevices does not get much surface exposure to salt and therefore is much more difficult to disolve.
Soaking works best on reels that drain well. Just like in the bucket/salt shaker experiment, pulling the reel out of the water, draining as much as possible, and dropping back in a few times should help significantly. A single quick dunk and drain is less effective. Replacing the soaking water in the bucket is not necessary (I did the equations in another thread).
My preference for beer usage would usually be to consume out of a surfactant free glass vs. lubricating bearings, but I have to admit that Shiner Bock is sort of a toss-up ;D ;D 8)
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on February 15, 2021, 09:51:10 PM
Quote
I have seen some new reels with lot of holes for the water to run off and some with seals to keep the water out.
Does it matter which type of reel you have to either dunk/rinse?
Yes. As noted early in this thread. Don't soak "sealed" reels.
Sealed reels do not do that good a job of sealing. The quality of manufacturing and engineering is not that high, even on the high dollar reels. Getting a long lasting, low friction, easy-to-maintain waterproof seal on rotating shaft assemblies is no small effort. Reel makers go with "good enough." If the seals are currently holding, no saltwater got in, so no need to soak/dunk. But if the seals are mostly working, you are introducing more water into the almost sealed reel that will remained trapped inside and not evacuating any salt, but increasing the amount of moisture for an extended period of time. The sad joke is that all sealed reels eventually do a better job of keeping water in than keeping water out. It is just a matter of time and mileage.
The purpose of soaking is to expose the salt to a large amount of freshwater. The salt dissolves and disperses throughout the water, decreasing the amount of salt in the reel. But if there are just a few cracks or small holes to for the water to enter the reel, the dispersion of salt will mostly be local, and the little salt will leave the reel. Here as an experiment that illustrates:
Drop a tablespoon of salt in a gallon bucket of warm water, give it one shake, wait a minute, and the water will taste salty. Put a tablespoon of salt int a glass salt shaker and fill the salt shaker with water. Now drop the salt shaker into the bucket refilled with warm fresh water. The water will taste fresh for a long time (many hours?). Now take the salt shaker out of the bucket, drain the water out of the salt shaker into the bucket, and drop back in. Repeat a few times and the water will taste salty, proving that most of the salt is no longer in the shaker.
There are limits to how much soaking will help. It will take much longer to get a tablespoon of salt out of the shaker than a 1/4 teaspoon. And reels are not a hollow smooth shell on the inside, so salt stuck in crevices does not get much surface exposure to salt and therefore is much more difficult to disolve.
Soaking works best on reels that drain well. Just like in the bucket/salt shaker experiment, pulling the reel out of the water, draining as much as possible, and dropping back in a few times should help significantly. A single quick dunk and drain is less effective. Replacing the soaking water in the bucket is not necessary (I did the equations in another thread).
My preference for beer usage would usually be to consume out a surfactant free glass vs. lubricating bearings, but I have to admit that Shiner Bock is sort of a toss-up ;D ;D 8)
-J
;D ;D 8)
drainage
Quote from: oc1 on February 16, 2021, 06:46:14 AM
drainage
Where in the hell did you find that !
That's drainage alright.
I guess you could use the old standby wad of spit for lube ? ;D
Mic
Everol recommends a rinse with the drag fully engaged. Then sprayed with CRC. Loosen the drag to store.