Here is a 710z I went through.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0142_zpsefacd797.jpg)
The spool removed and the drag washer order.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0143_zpsd124a1d7.jpg)
Handle removed and disassembled. Only one screw holds the side cover on.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0144_zps350b4682.jpg)
Remove the screw through the crosswind block that holds the shaft and slide the shaft out.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0145_zps5049a9df.jpg)
Remove the screw holding the croswind block and crosswind roller on the main gear and remove.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0146_zps7bb6d1a8.jpg)
Slide out the main gear.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0147_zpsa25ce045.jpg)
Remove the rotor nut and washer from the pinion and remove the rotor.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0148_zps902d9c09.jpg)
Unscrew the screw holding the dog and dog spring. Unscrew the excentric screw and remove the excentric handle, excentric and excentric spring.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0149_zps67c06fcc.jpg)
Remove the three screws holding the bearing retainer.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0150_zpsfd7f7438.jpg)
Remove the bearing retainer. Slide out the pinion and pinion bearing.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0151_zps41940b6f.jpg)
Clean the parts and pack the pinion bearing. Grease the pinion and install. Replace the bearing retainer.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0153_zps982d6432.jpg)
Reinstall the excentric, excentric spring and handle. Replace the dog and dog spring.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0154_zpsb29d2513.jpg)
With the antireverse lever off, replace the main gear.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0155_zpsad0aef33.jpg)
Replace the crossswind roller and crosswind block.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0156_zpsec4a2e88.jpg)
Replace the rotor, Rotor washer and rotor nut.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0159_zps6d30fd8f.jpg)
The next picture is the bail disassembled.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0161_zps8f9d550f.jpg)
Replace the bail trip lever and trip spring.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0165_zps20852f7a.jpg)
Replace the bail return spring.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0166_zpsae43d437.jpg)
Reinstal the bail arm.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0167_zps4c4de15e.jpg)
Slide in the spool shaft and replace the screw in the crosswind block.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0169_zps00231124.jpg)
Reinstall the bail wire and roller.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0170_zps3dfe1bb2.jpg)
Replace the teflon washer under the spool with a carbon fiber.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0172_zps7dc0cb94.jpg)
Replace the handle spool and drag knob and your done.
(http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/FireandH2O/Penn%20710z/100_0173_zps9bcc3614.jpg)
This reel is also similar to the 704 and 706z. Bob
Thanks for sharing, Bob...I know it had to take you a couple of hours.
Those are some of my favorite spinners, I'm always impressed by that ss pinion.
They sure don't make them like they used to :-\.
Boss, I believe Bob deserves a wrench, what do you think?...Never mind, I know you don't like those. ;D
Bob, I might have to buy you a wrench :-\
Great job! Sal
Sal, I know you had to notice I used your Sal's Super Slick Spinner Slickum you sent me. ;D My son bought that reel for 15.00 with no handle. Bob
This tutorial was of great help to me today - I did exactly the same thing to one of my 710's and what an improvement!
Thanks Cone. :)
Nice step by step pics & explanation! That should be helpful for other maker's reels, too. Same basic concept on many of those older gems. ;)
Schweet! ;)
Nicely done, I added a link to it from our Repair section :)
Quote from: mizmo67 on January 20, 2017, 06:24:44 PM
Nicely done, I added a link to it from our Repair section :)
I finally made the big time! I never would have believed I would have something linked from your repair section. I'm honored! ;D I hope you guys are around forever. Where would we get our parts?
Having Mo adding this to her repair section is a big deal, you should be proud!
Well deserved! It couldn't have happened to a better person... good job buddy!
Sal
Wow Cone...linked to Scott's...awesome! 8)
I'm sure there's more I need to add links to (rather than reposting in-site)
Not enough hours in the day. Maybe later on this year after I get all this store/website splitting stuff done!
First of all, I think this post deserves a sticky! Now, a few questions! I've picked up one of these, excited to get it operational and spooled up with mono as a bait rig. The line roller is a dark, almost black colour. Is this normal? Also, I need a new bail arm; the current one has some rust on it where the taper meets the wire. I can get this through Scott's but there are two options, a 1/4" and a 3/8". Mine has what appears to be a 1/4" thread but a 3/8" nut, which measurement are they talking about on the Scott's website? The photo from Scott's (which I've attached), mentions inner diameter but then it mentions nut diameter, contradicting itself a bit. I just want to make sure I choose the right one before sending it halfway around the world to Australia.
Cheers,
Andrew
Here is a picture of the line roller. Is this normal?
Cheers,
Andrew
That line roller is definitely not normal.
There are no plastic line rollers on the z series.
Someone has pudged it.
Quote from: Ruffy on November 03, 2017, 04:54:38 AM
Here is a picture of the line roller. Is this normal?
Cheers,
Andrew
I have a 704 with a roller that looks like that, it appears to be bronze. Maybe all the chrome came off?
Quote from: Shark Hunter on November 03, 2017, 05:43:32 AM
That line roller is definitely not normal.
There are no plastic line rollers on the z series.
Someone has pudged it.
Hi Daron, it isn't plastic. It's metal, and attracted to a magnet, but just not chrome or SS which is why it has me stumped. I see they are not available through Scott's so wondering if it is a dodgy!
Cheers,
Andrew
Sorry Andrew,
From the pic, I thought it was plastic. I have all the left handled even number z series and ss series and have never seen one like that.
It is new to me.
Daron
Quote from: Ruffy on November 03, 2017, 04:54:38 AM
Here is a picture of the line roller. Is this normal?
Cheers,
Andrew
Hello Andrew, the line roller is very much normal.
On the first generation spinfishers, line rollers are Tungsten Carbide.
You will also find those on the Z series, but most on the ones with the blue box ...unless someone used the wrong box.
Best,
Sal
Thanks Sal, I had no idea?
Still taking me to School. ;)
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 03, 2017, 10:39:38 AM
Quote from: Ruffy on November 03, 2017, 04:54:38 AM
Here is a picture of the line roller. Is this normal?
Cheers,
Andrew
Hello Andrew, the line roller is very much normal.
On the first generation spinfishers, line rollers are Tungsten Carbide.
You will also find those on the Z series, but most on the ones with the blue box ...unless someone used the wrong box.
Best,
Sal
You should feel fortunate you've got the carbide roller! IMHO, in the older reels, nothing beats a carbide roller. SS won't hold a candle to the carbides. In the old days most of the better quality rods had a carbide tiptop. The rest of the guides were SS wire, agate, etc. but the tip ring was carbide on a good rod. They called them carboloy, the same thing used on masonry drill bits.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on November 03, 2017, 05:37:54 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 03, 2017, 10:39:38 AM
Quote from: Ruffy on November 03, 2017, 04:54:38 AM
Here is a picture of the line roller. Is this normal?
Cheers,
Andrew
Hello Andrew, the line roller is very much normal.
On the first generation spinfishers, line rollers are Tungsten Carbide.
You will also find those on the Z series, but most on the ones with the blue box ...unless someone used the wrong box.
Best,
Sal
You should feel fortunate you've got the carbide roller! IMHO, in the older reels, nothing beats a carbide roller. SS won't hold a candle to the carbides. In the old days most of the better quality rods had a carbide tiptop. The rest of the guides were SS wire, agate, etc. but the tip ring was carbide on a good rod. They called them carboloy, the same thing used on masonry drill bits.
That's particularly good to know!
After overhauling an old green 710 I recently acquired, I turned my attention to the ugly blackish looking line roller that couldn't be polished to a shine. Next day took the reel to my local best tackle shop to see about getting a nice new shiney SS roller, but none of the SS rollers he had would fit so he gave me another old ugly black carbide roller identical to the one on the reel. Oh, great. So, back to the house, and I cleaned both of them up best I could and put one back on the reel, thinking I'd just have to live with it. Ha! ---The joke's on me; and now I've got an extra one!
The tungsten carbide tips are dark grey like that too. I saw a couple of rods with carbide striper guides as well. That stuff is really hard and won't groove, but it's also brittle so you have to be careful about not whacking it on something.
-steve
Thanks for the replies guys, I was waiting on some parts from Scott's before I posted a reply. Sounds like I did well, I've got a 710z with a carbide roller and metal sideplate! I got a new bail wire and fitted it up, which threw up a few issues of its own. When I put it in, the spool was at the top of its oscillation. The moment I went to wind it became very stiff. Turns out the crimped end of the new bail wire stuck out so far into the rotor that it impacted on the spool, taking a gouge out in the process >:( I had to take the bail wire off several times, filing down the crimp to get it to fit without taking too much meat off. I've greased the gouge on the spool and will have to keep an eye on it, without anodising now its an entry point for corrosion.
For anyone who has the same issue, the crimped end must not go through into the rotor at all. The gap between the spool and rotor is tight, if the bail wire sticks through at all you'll most likely have dramas.
A couple of observations as well. When I had the original cone shaped bail wire, I couldn't use a 704 handle on this reel. The handle fit, but impacted the bail wire every few rotations when the moons aligned. The new bail wire has a slightly smaller footprint, and the 704 handle fits a treat. If I see a 704z handle that matches colour I'll swap them over for a bit of extra leverage. Lastly was the drag washers, being an early 710z the top metal washer was dimpled with matching indentations on the drag knob. While it gave the drag a click type feel I wasn't a fan of how it incremented the drag, Scott's offer a replacement kit with new HT-100's, two flat keyed washers and one eared washer. The drag is now buttery smooth!
Just ran across this topic. Very interesting. Getting me more interested in Penn, for sure.
Frank
I was still using Mitchell 300's while my friend got his new 712. We didn't like the clicking drag knob either so we turned that top washer upside down. We were bridge fishing for flounder, Spanish Mackerel, and Redfish.
I put new HT-100s in my 710, too, but I'm not fond of that knobby clicking metal washer, either.
A side note on carboloy tip tops for rods, They still make them. I still use them on rods with the old bridged guides. Pretty much unbreakable and super slick. I have a few sets of guides with all carboloy rings too, pretty bullet proof for guys who are hard on their gear. Would be a great material for line rollers
Quote from: wfjord on November 24, 2017, 12:56:19 AM
I put new HT-100s in my 710, too, but I'm not fond of that knobby clicking metal washer, either.
Unfortunately you can't buy that washer separately from Scott's, you can only buy the complete stack of metal and HT-100. I needed new Ht-100s as my reel had the original stack in it, so I wasn't that fussed. I do now have a spare flat washer though, happy to put it in a plain envelope and send it back stateside if you'd like? Just PM me your address and I'll get it out on Monday!
Cheers,
Andrew
Thank you very much, Andrew, I appreciate your offer. I'm going to first check with a local tackle shop in town here that has a decent selection of parts for spinfishers. It also gives me a good excuse to spend time in the shop looking at stuff. If they don't have one I'll give you a holler.
Woohoo, I'm back baby! For the last four years I've been doing med school, part-time employment and growing the family to three kids with no room to wiggle fishing in there. One of my outs was swinging by the local second hand shop/scouring ebay and tinkering with reels in-between assignments and studying, but I am finally at a point where I can take some time and fish. Got out yesterday and did a bit of live-baiting at my local creek for a barramundi and a jack. Unfortunately the barra wasn't legal, and it wasn't worth a million bucks*. But it's my first in 5 years and I am keen for more! My 710Z worked flawlessly!
Cheers,
Andrew
*They have a tagged fishing comp here in the Northern Territory of Australia, they release 101 tagged barra a year across the entirety of the NT, one of those 101 is worth $1,000,000, the other 100 are worth $10,000. 12 have been caught this season, all worth $10,000. https://www.milliondollarfish.com.au/
Ruffy --Great photos and nice fish! I love seeing that 710Z next to a fish. I've recently taken to photographing some of my 714 and 714Zs next to the fish they caught.