Stopping by a downtown Sacramento Pawn Shop, I spied a cradle reel on the rack, recognizing the Nep-Tuna and Penn I grabbed it and discovered a price tag of $29, the clerk said he just posted it on an on-line classified for $25, I couldnt pay the $27.13 for it fast enough. Bringing it home it realized the Penn was a 349HC.
(http://i.imgur.com/0aXaeM8.jpg)
So then began the task of cleaning this up to see exactly what I have, a tear down of the reel ensured, a broken screw head required a dremel to get it out, and the previous owner had cut the tip off the dog so the anti reverse lever would not function for the knuckle buster feature. Im going to find someone that can silver solder some material and I will shape to restore the knuckle buster feature. I believe the silver solder will be adequate because it doesnt take much strength the disable the dog.
(http://i.imgur.com/gaCDr5q.jpg)
Next was a clean up of the cradle. The Nep-Tuna stamping was clearly seen and this cradle has been drilled for the 349 and 49 pattern, not sure if i will fill the 49 hole pattern or not, I kind of like the idea of both options, but probably wont ever use a 49 as the 349 is a much stronger reel.
(http://i.imgur.com/ixtfXZS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/AuDfQji.jpg)
I thoroughly degreased the cradle and found the remnants of a varnish finish, a wire brush on the dremel made quick work of that
(http://i.imgur.com/171V52k.jpg)
Examining the locking collar shows this uses a friction fit for the rod tip, not a locking collar as found on other models
(http://i.imgur.com/4ZK5QOz.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/IZpHYx3.jpg)
Now on to the rod. A sticker has the name Johnny Walker, Made in the USA, BRT 7865C, measuring 62 1/2" from roller tip to male ferrule tip. The rod diameter at the tip is 3/8" and the base is 9/16". Rod material is solid glass. The Key Lime Pie color is interesting. The limited amount of information available on the web, shows Johnny Walker made budget priced rods in the 50's to early 70's, owned by J.T. Neil Co. in Detroit, Michigan. The roller tip is broken at the ferrule and I will see if the guy that does the silver solder on the dog and do something with the roller tip. The male ferrule measures .75".
(http://i.imgur.com/ENWmqAd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LspZfqc.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/M8UmelU.jpg)
The rod butt appears to be heavily ribbed hickory, severely mushroomed end cap held in place with a brass nail, and wrapped with two diameters of hemp or manilla twine, painted brown. I would like to see whats under the wrapping but afraid of what I might find like a broken or split butt section.
(http://i.imgur.com/LpJrn08.jpg?1)
Reassembly was straight forward, but had to remember to place the handle side on the appropriate side of the cradle, if using a stand, it doesnt matter.
(http://i.imgur.com/KLDT3gu.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/Avwtvjc.jpg)
Based on my research, and I hope others will chime in, the 349HC was introduced in 1957, Johnny Walker rods were in business starting in 1950's, and Nep-Tuna started in the 1960's. All the dates overlap, but with the caramel colored handle I would like to think the package was built in the early 60's. Now time to get some period correct guides to rebuild this rod, three of the five are broken. Im really happy to add this Nep-Tuna and 349HC to the collection and hope to fish with it in the near future. I just hope no one reports me to the police for theft ;D.Bill
Bill, used dogs are available on ebay. That will be a cheaper & better option. Rudy
Hey Bill, I restore a lot of old rods. If you post a picture of the guides I might have some floating around here. Sheridan
Bill --
No use going the solder route.
Here are some new ones -- I can send along a couple with that Mitchell Oscillater gear you need for the 300.
I think you need the one marked 15-349 -- but the 49 part is what shows on Scotts for the HC? -- but I do not think that is correct.
Verify what you need, and how many -- and I will just send them along at N/C.
Best,
Fred
Score! Nice find ;)
Thank you for the kind words, and generous offers, you guys rock! Fred you are right the 15-349 is the correct dog and I would be greatfull if you would send it along with the Mitchell gear.....Sheridan I will send a pm with the pictures any assistance would be greatly appreciated....and I finally got to pay it forward today, an older gentleman in the RV park broke his fishing reel beyond repair and I was able to give him Delmar 285 that I recently won in an auction.....reel has been given the "treatment" and he was ecstatic...feels good to give back..... Bill
Will do, Bill--
Best,
Fred
Bill thats a great find. I need to get out more..!!
Quote from: RowdyW on October 22, 2016, 06:00:29 PM
Bill, used dogs are available on ebay. That will be a cheaper & better option. Rudy
I have several used but in good shape factory 15-349 dogs and you can have one if Fred runs out.
Quote from: Keta on October 22, 2016, 10:11:52 PM
Quote from: RowdyW on October 22, 2016, 06:00:29 PM
Bill, used dogs are available on ebay. That will be a cheaper & better option. Rudy
I have several used but in good shape factory 15-349 dogs and you can have one if Fred runs out.
That's a good one Lee.. lol.
When has Fred ever run out of parts?
:)
Ha! You bought that right out from under me, lol. I called my brother and asked him to go get it.
Good score.
Great work Bill and a fantastic find - well done!
Bill, I think I have a roller tip matching what you have there if you are getting into the business of rewrapping the rod. Welcome to it, NC of course.
John
John I would really appreciate the roller tip, thank you pm sent.....this is really beginning to be a community effort to re-hab this classic, 15-349 dog from Fred, four rod guides from Sheridan, and your roller tip....I did have the opportunity to deliver the Penn 285 to the old timer here at the park and just watching him spin the reel and the gleam in his eyes was humbling....but I did keep the 285 that has Ted's tail plate donation ;)....now as the components arrive I will post updates.....Thank you to all who has been so generous to me and to all who have help the others here....Alan has really built a community of special people.....Bill
Bill, cleaning it up now and will get it out to you this week. This one is marked "Alain"; it came from an Abu rod I rebuilt for a buddy some years ago...I don't throw anything away. I think the roller may be SS; will see when it comes from the bath but is in great condition. I haven't measured ID yet but it's on the mark or very close; your builder can easily sand a solid glass blank to fit (I do this all the time).
As a historical point of the green glas, somewhere back in time I had Tru Temper with that green solid blank; wonder if the TT's were any relation to the Jarvis blank manufacturer...
Well the components have started arriving, i got Sheridan's rod guides and he added a little extra, five guides for the shaft, thread and varnish for the wrappings.....the pressure is building and Im gonna have to step up my game to make this whole affair worthy :o first step will be to strip off all the old wrappings and polish the blank....thanks again Bill
(http://i.imgur.com/axhsocj.jpg)
Update on the rebuild....stripped off all the guides from the rod and chemically and mechanically stripping the oldvarnish from the fiber glass rod....so while the strippers are working I started on the butt which is a hemp/manilla wrapped wooden section
(http://i.imgur.com/zKRdHr1.jpg)
As I un-wound the cordage found two layers of brown painted cords
(http://i.imgur.com/mcg4NOi.jpg)
Under the first layer was a big build up of duct tape to bring the second layer to the height of the Nep-Tuna frame
(http://i.imgur.com/lxcNAdP.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/yxyiklz.jpg)
As I dug deeper into the butt section I then discovered the builders need to add material to reach the frame height, the butt was way under sized
(http://i.imgur.com/MfwqzK7.jpg)
Then i discovered the builder had drilled and NAILED the butt section into the frame with a cut 16 penny nail, so out came the dremel and drill to drill out the nail holding the butt into the frame
(http://i.imgur.com/pZGuAZZ.jpg)
Upon removal there was three wraps of wet/dry sandpaper to make up the diameter of the butt section to the frame opening....
(http://i.imgur.com/uxoKaSb.jpg)
Now rather than try to make this work I will be building a new butt section from a 1" diameter wooden dowel, tapered eva grip and rubber gimball end cap. I will be clear coating the rod section and wrapping the guides this week, placing an order for the butt components and a trip to Home Depot for the wooden dowel.....this is really turning into a project....and I am learning why rod builders do not like to RE-BUILD rods....lots of work for little money.....I hope I am not boring everyone with this project....Bill
This is certainly very interesting.
yep, rebuilds on anything...house reno, car resto, reel, or rod usually have a surprise cow pie to step in...
Bill, what size butt do you need? I may have one and will send it on with the roller top.
Boring? This is epic. Twine,sandpaper duct tape, the guy must have been out of bondo. Keep it coming. Sheridan
John the frame socket measures 2 1/2" deep and 7/8" ID but I need to double check the ID....the exposed butt section is 13" so 15 1/2" or longer would be fantastic....thank you gentlemen for all the assistance....Bill
Bill, I have a bunch of vintage rods and will check when I get home today. You're welcome to whatever you can use; they just sit in my attic until I need a part.
Cool beans brother...I will send a pm tonight after I confirm the socket ID....
ok. Note, when I have such a reclamation project, I have successfully used Gorilla glue if the gaps are small or surfaces are uneven. It expands to fill voids and is pretty tenacious; I saw guys use it to whole stick toe rail on sailboats. I know I have several butts, will take some pics.
I confirmed the socket ID and it's 13/16" or a hair over 7/8" with and OL of 13 3/4".......thanks again brother....
Cool project.
Can't wait to see it progress.
Quote from: TARFU on October 31, 2016, 10:42:50 PM
I confirmed the socket ID and it's 13/16" or a hair over 7/8" with and OL of 13 3/4".......thanks again brother....
ok, will see what I have.
John
I got this I can send you if you want to try to extract the butt section and go OLD SKOOL - And definitely not boring
Tim
(http://i743.photobucket.com/albums/xx76/fresnotim/DSC00967_zps0ktkgny2.jpg) (http://s743.photobucket.com/user/fresnotim/media/DSC00967_zps0ktkgny2.jpg.html)
WOW :o Does it get much more OG (Original Gangster) than .....quite similar to what was removed, mine had the bee hive pattern on the bottom end but slim at the top.....generous offer brother and Cool Beans too ;D Not sure if I will use it or John's offering, but always good to have a back either way...... pm sent......Bill
I will send it minus the broken bamboo in front.
Tim
10-4 brother.....email sent.......bill
Bill I was hoping I had one of those free but what I have are the smooth ones. That one by far is more interesting. See if it works. If not I will send a plain one. Will send tip today in any case. My recco is carefully cut a slot lengthwise down the seat without getting much into the wood with dremel. You should be able to insert screwdriver into slit and pop seat loose with a twist on the blade.
Thank you John....Tim's handle is really interesting and will be period correct, now how am I going to find 50 yo sand paper to shim it ;D....Im hoping his handle will not need much shimming, I have used Gorilla Glue for other applications and I think it should be a good option for taking up the slack....I will be starting on the rod this weekend....clear coat first....will post pictures as the build continues.....Thanks again to everyone who is helping......Bill
Nice, and I just looked back at the picks...BT's handle matches your foregrip milling, so it's a no-brainer there....this is gonna be cool.....
If there is too much gap for gorilla glue to center in the ferrule (been there), you can try to wrap the end of the dowel with rod thread and epoxy over just as you would a rod in orderto build up diameter and it becomes very strong as well. Then glue into ferrule. that's funny about some 50 yo sandpaper....but I bet that handle is older....
Quick update...I had a great telephone conversation with Big Tim last night....hate to say it but he is the first person I have had a person to person conversation with since I have been here and it was like we have been friends for years :D....he will be sending the butt and fore grip pictured above which will be a period correct butt section for this build minus the 50 yo sandpaper ;)...finished the stripping of the rod last night and applied the first coat of urethane today.....to be transparent this was a spray can application due to the lack of a rod dryer but I am not too concerned as this will not be seeing a lot of abuse.....I would post a picture but it would not be able to show the finish, I was able to apply it thick enough to have it run completely down the rod when held vertical without sags and give a good even finish.....I will re-evaluate in the am and lightly sand and apply a second coat if necessary but safe to say I am impressed with what I have now....I am not too concerned with coating the guide wrapping and hand turning the rod as I will be able to do this a wrap at a time and not having to worry about the whole rod....I will be using Sheridan's Gudebrod Rod Varnish that he was so generous to send with the rod guides and thread....also I will have a special addition to reveal upon the completion but you will have to wait.... ;D I hope the AT family has a good Morro Bay Trip this weekend...and please someone try to hurt Tim's only feeling he has brought for the Morro Bay trip.. 8) ask him and he may tell you about it :D....Bill
Hi Bill, do a small section of the rod that will be hidden with the second coat first. Some of those varnishes will dissolve the first coat as you apply it. If you have a good coat on now and it looks how you want it maybe skip the second coat. Alot of those products will chip and flake if they're on real thick. Sheridan
Thank you for the heads up.....Will do as advised......Bill
Wrapped the rod guides today.....5 guides, two wraps per side and 2 wraps at the foregrip, 22 wraps, rod varnish and 8 hrs later....this is kind of like sorting fly poop out of pepper :P....I need a beer or three now.....next will be John's roller tip, Tim's butt section and Fred's anti-reverse dog....cant wait to finish and show the final product.....Bill
Before(http://i.imgur.com/axhsocj.jpg)
After(http://i.imgur.com/3thseiP.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/xnGbS2J.jpg)
wow peretty cool project, keeping an eye on this
Thank you brother....I received two packages yesterday, sorry for no pictures right now, was kinda occupied last night watching the polls, but I will post pictures tonight, Thanks to Big Tim for the butt section that is in incredible shape and will not need any refurbishment and Fred's package of unobtanium AR dog for the 349 HC and gear for another project....Bill
I will split the reel seat this Veteran's Day Weekend and start the fitting of the butt and install the dog.....Thank you guys....Really a good bunch of Cool Beans ;D
Picture update
(http://i.imgur.com/vK9Nf7J.jpg)
Build continues, with a liberal application of a propane torch I was able to extract the butt section from Tim's donation
(http://i.imgur.com/WNtCBpe.jpg)
After comparing the "new" butt to the original, they were found to be the same diameter...so using the SWAG method (Scientific Wild #### Guess) ??? two wraps of 80 lb dacron would make up the difference between the socket and butt diameter
(http://i.imgur.com/l3pIftC.jpg)
Then applied a thin film of Gorilla Glue and inserted into the cradle socket, the fit was perfect :D
(http://i.imgur.com/clspgyc.jpg)
With the glue setting, on to the AR dog the original owner had cut to disable the knuckle buster feature >:(, and I discovered the spool is stainless steel.....(http://i.imgur.com/WHIo9mH.jpg)
Here's the complete Nep-Tuna Cradle....
(http://i.imgur.com/G8eZ78w.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wDkGBq0.jpg)
As soon as the roller tip arrives, this will be ready to fish....figure I will spool it with 50 lb dacron to keep the OG look, at least until I take it out for some salt water action..... ;D
I am at a loss for words. Stupendous?
All I know is, I want one.
Ron
Brains, talent and yankee ingenuity triumph again. Nice job Bill, Looks great, the beans they are a'chillin! Sheridan
Thank you for the kind words gentlemen....but the brains is debatable ::) talent pales compared to what is being done by the gang 8) and Yankee ingenuity comes from the heart felt donations from all :D.....I just put the pieces together.....btw my fishing buddy came by and is ready to take it trolling for stripers.....Bill
Great job Bill - I love it :)
First, NICE!!!
Now, why did you do this to me? It could have been any other Penn reel and it would have been cool, it is a 349 and now I must find one.... Missed 2 on e-bay, hope I was out bid by one of us.
Quote from: Keta on November 12, 2016, 03:27:08 PM
First, NICE!!!
Now, why did you do this to me? It could have been any other Penn reel and it would have been cool, it is a 349 and now I must find one.... Missed 2 on e-bay, hope I was out bid by one of us.
I had my eye on those too.
Bill, great job on the one above! Looks like a match made in heaven.
Quote from: noyb72 on November 11, 2016, 11:02:17 PM
I am at a loss for words. Stupendous?
All I know is, I want one.
Ron
My thoughts exactly Ron!
What's one more addiction??
Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on November 12, 2016, 07:09:02 PM
Quote from: noyb72 on November 11, 2016, 11:02:17 PM
I am at a loss for words. Stupendous?
All I know is, I want one.
Ron
My thoughts exactly Ron!
What's one more addiction??
X3... WOW
coolest beans brother!
Nice work, Bill. You've put a lot of hard work in that set up and deserve a fish on it, but then put it on a shelf and enjoy it. It's a testament to how we get things done around here... Together!
I bid on both of those cradles last week but couldn't get to the price they went for as they both needed work and didn't know what was entailed.
All the best on your first trip out.
Well done,
Dom
Great job Bill, with the help of many others here. Making this one a well deserved sticky.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on November 13, 2016, 01:46:01 AM
Great job Bill, with the help of many others here. Making this one a well deserved sticky.
Sal
Good call Sal.
Thank you for all the kind words and the sticky....as Sal stated this has been an intense community effort, without the assistance this would have been a long term rebuild, but with Tim, John, Fred and Sheridan's help it came together really fast...a special thank you to Sheridan for the rod guides and answers to my seemingly endless emails for advice...one component remaining and then the full reveal, and a quick overview of what it took to rebuild this classic. And my apologies to infecting others with the Nep-Tuna virus....but will have to say Mike Cacioppo is "Ground Zero" for this ;D.....the write-up in his book The Chronological History of Penn Reels is a must read......Bill
Tip should arrive in a couple days. These have to be cut off so you will need to drill out the glas. Sand your blank to fit and you are in business. Use hot glue cement and wrap over the tube then apply finish. I always do this because especially on heavier rods tip cement will shear under torque.
I never epoxy a tip in the tube because you are screwed if you need to replace; like if we find a nicer one. I'm tardy, my bad!!!!
This thread has been fun Bill...great work! 8)
Cool beans brother.....thank you for the tip and advice....I would have wrapped just to the tube and not over it....will over wrap it now....Thank you for the kind words Mo...this has been an education, lots of different aspects to this build....about the only thing not touched was the male ferrule that inserts into the cradle....Bill
overwrap of tip....
Thank you for the photo John....I have a plan on what I will be doing now....Bill
Bill, check your pm.
:o Sweet!
Quote from: thorhammer on November 16, 2016, 04:58:44 PM
overwrap of tip....
great tip on the tiptop John, I havent seen a trolling rod or boat rod with the tip overwraped like yours but it makes sense
Torqued an Aftco on a big shark in the Keys a long time ago and now do this step religiously.
Update, I received John's roller tip Thursday, drilled the roller socket out, milled the rod tip down to fit inside the roller socket, applied some hot glue and wrapped from the rod and up and over the roller tip.....just waiting for the Perma Gloss U-40 to show up and will finish this project....I am not really happy with the fitting of the roller tip to the rod :-\ there is a gap between the roller socket and the rod...may un-wrap and re-fit...I should be able to save the threads for the re-wrap....I will be going to SoCal to spend Thanksgiving with the family, so I will re-evaluate when I get back....Does anyone have an opinion regarding the hot glue option for installing a roller tip...I am not really confident in it's holding ability, but I am wrapping the thread 1/2" up the roller tip and will be using Perma Gloss on it....Maybe use Gorilla Glue instead of hot glue? ......Bill
(http://i.imgur.com/U0g787d.jpg)
Cool Bill, I'm enjoying this thread.
Sal
Great thread! ... but also interested in the JALAMA Beach sign. I have a few incredible memory days there, surfing T's and Kiteboarding out in front and ending the day with one of the 10 best hamburgers in the world. Do you go there much? pretty pristine coastline( definitely sharky!) and out of the way for most.
FH.....we have been making a yearly trips for the last 10 years, started in a tent and the last trip, we took a few friends and their kids, ended up in three spots, one 30' trailer and four tents and four ez-ups :o....I love walking the dogs headed north towards Vandenberg can get a good 2 mile walk in without seeing a soul...last year wasnt a good year for seals saw three dead and half eaten you are right definitely sharky....but would love to dive the kelp paddies, they look untouched. Tried surf fishing but found the current to be more of a freeway than a leisurely current....and yes the Jalama Burger has got to be one of the best ever.....Cheers brother.... Bill
It's coming along great Bill. The hot glue will work fine and it shouldn't be super snug as you'll want enough room for a film of hot glue between the tip and the blank. If the gap is too big wrap a layer of thread over the tip and melt the hot glue into the thread. There's also tip top glue you can buy online but it's almost the same as hot glue just has a lower melting point.
Jalama is a real treasure and far enough off the beaten path to be fairly uncrowded. The perch fishing there can be incredible. If you're into spiders some years there's a robust migration of tarantulas right up the hill. That burger is some fine eatin too.
Sheridan
Not to hijack my own thread but here are some photographs of Jalama Beach pronounced "Ha-Lama Beach"
The creek that runs through the northern border of the campground
(http://i.imgur.com/8KUMnbn.jpg)
Where the creek meets the Pacific Ocean
(http://i.imgur.com/ozDloiF.jpg)
And what I call the Cliffs of Dover, north on the beach walking towards Vandenberg Air Force Base but looking south
(http://i.imgur.com/RxpqDbj.jpg)
Beautiful campground 14 miles off Highway 1, as stated below off the beaten path but well worth it....and no cell phone reception WOOOOHOOO!!!!
Bill, Gorilla glue could be a good option. It fills voids as you know and will break with heat much easier than epoxy, should you come across a better tip. ( and by NO means am I wet if you change... Please put the best in there if you can improve; the build deserve best it can get!!!)
J
Just read back over this when I had a minute. Some rod repair tip kits actually have a hot glue stick in the container vs. the white opaque glue we used to get. I use whatever is in the kit I have; I indicated a hot glue stick here in case Bill didn't have an actual kit and no need to buy one (they usually come with tips, for which he may have no use.
Bill, if it were me and the gap made me nervous, I'd go gorilla glue and then wrap as you have, then you are confident in the arrangement. if you keep existing thread, tape it off or you will have a gorilla mess on it :)
John
Thanks John, I will be completely unwrapping the tip to fix a gap between the socket and where it meets the rod....I didn't mill the step down staringt enough and there is a gap, barely visible in the above photo, there is two layers of thread there, so I will be able to unwind to the spool to save it.....I will reevaluate the glue situation when I put it back on, but it sounds like the hot glue will be the ticket.....I really appreciate all your help during this rebuild...Bill
Bill, sure thing. I thought about one other thing...I've used U40 and while it does impart a nice seal and gloss, IMO it doesn't have the structural strength of epoxy over thread by a long shot...seriously think about that gorilla as you are gonna put this on a striper and not up on a wall if I read correctly....note, you can wind back and forth to "step" that brown thread up to a smooth transition to the tip. I have plenty if you need some.
J
John, sorry replying so late, my plan at this point is to hot glue the roller tip (I believe the roller tip socket fits well on the rod, I just need to fix the shoulder where the roller socket meets the rod) and wind two layers of thread over lapping the roller tip, then use the U-40 to seal the threads on all the guides. It appears the original rod builder used a varnish.
I would like to keep the wrappings visible and not bury them in a heavy layer of epoxy. If U-40 is not appropriate please let me know. I plan on using the Nep-Tuna as a "Sunday Driver" and do not expect to use it for heavy trolling, more for trolling the striped bass we have on the river, figuring a large striper runs 40 lbs. As always your input and experience is greatly appreciated. Bill
Hey Bill, Happy Thanksgiving! No, you are completely on track with the U40 vs epoxy high build finish on this to keep it looking period correct. My point was that since you ARE using U40 which wont provide that much structural strength, you may wish to use gorilla glue inside the tip to provide that strength against torque.....Note, you had to drill out that tip for a reason: whatever they used back then (epoxy? I don't know) to cement tips is strong stuff; I cut it off because in in my experience the fiberglas melts before the glue when trying to remove using heat. So, the wraps were strictly trim back then as far as the tip goes, but as you see tips are there semi-permanently.
On stripers, you will proabably be fine as you plan. I torqued one on an 8' shark. Different deal.
J
Cool Beans brother....Happy Thanksgiving to you and the family....Bill
Ok Bill, turkey's over! Back on task!!! :)
;D ;D ;D ;D Just got back to Sacramento today and the U-40 was waiting for me.....gonna re-set the roller tip and start the finishing this week....I did get to show my son the rig last weekend and he wants to take it fishing said "that's the coolest fishing pole you have".....I guess better get on it...kinda hate to finish this project....the same feeling when one finishes a really good book or movie.....you can never relive the feeling of the first time, but you can always read another good book....hmmmm.....whats the next "book" gonna be ??? Bill
uhhhhh...you'll be hunting another one. I'm all about matched pairs :)
Hope you had a good Thanksgiving!
Quote from: TARFU on November 29, 2016, 12:57:07 AM
..the same feeling when one finishes a really good book or movie.....you can never relive the feeling of the first time, but you can always read another good book...
now I can relate that feeling amigo.
not on the same class than you as builder but now the rod building bug bite me big time, its funny that my little girl of 6yo also told me like your kid (kinda), dad that rod you made is beautiful, can you do the same to mine? but with pink color please?
so, I already have my next rod build assingment
congrats on your net-tuna restoration
OK.....picked up some small paint brushes at the R/C Hobby store, 3 for $2, set up the wrapping station (really just a cardboard box :P) and applied the first coat of U-40......this coat just soaked in and darkened the thread a little, but I like the dark brown color, the original thread was black....now dry for an hour or so and the second coat will be applied......I'm figuring at least three coats....should finish this project today......Bill
(http://i.imgur.com/eY0SfHJ.jpg)
Looking good Bill...labor of love :)
Second coat
(http://i.imgur.com/tKzBuLo.jpg)
Third coat
(http://i.imgur.com/PL51JzW.jpg)
Three coats so far, going to let dry overnite and re=access in the am.....Bill
Nice!
Well this is kind of bitter sweet.....I have finished the Johnny Walker/Nep-Tuna/Penn 349HC project. I am happy to have had the opportunity to restore this classic combo, but sad to see this journey end. So to recap this project:
I found a Nep-Tuna Cradle, Johnny Walker Rod and Penn 349HC at a local pawn shop for $27 out the door.
(http://i.imgur.com/0aXaeM8.jpg)
After checking the rear view mirror all the way home in case the police tried to arrest me for theft, I began the journey to restore this classic combo. I have to credit Mike Cacioppo (Penn Chronology) for introducing us to the Nep-Tuna. First was the tear down, which revealed a cradle drilled for both the Penn 49 and 349 hole pattern, an undersized butt section which used wet/dry sandpaper, duct tape and two layers of painted twine to mount into the cradle
(http://i.imgur.com/gaCDr5q.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/AuDfQji.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/L7Wzna2.jpg)
Then began the rebuilding process. With generous donations from people here at Alantani.com, the reel was brought back to working order. The previous owner had clipped the anti reverse dog to disable the knuckle buster mode. Fred (foakes) donated a replacement dog
(http://i.imgur.com/WHIo9mH.jpg)
Which completed the reel
(http://i.imgur.com/KLDT3gu.jpg)
The original butt section was held in place with sandpaper, duct tape and twine, but Tim (Big T) came to the rescue with a period correct butt section from a busted split cane rod. So a little heat and a couple layers of 80 lb dacron the butt was fitted to the cradle.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZafvaKR.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/uxoKaSb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WNtCBpe.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/l3pIftC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/G8eZ78w.jpg)
Then came the rod, which was stripped of all the hardware and remaining finish and with generous donations from John (the swimmer) with a roller tip and Sheridan (swill805) sending 5 rod guides and thread and lots of emails and really good advice from everyone the rod was rewrapped. I used a card board box as a wrapping stand and homemade thimble to wrap the guides and apply the Perma Gloss U-40. The Johnny Walker rod was sanded and a spray can urethane applied (yeah it was a spray can, but it worked ;D)
(http://i.imgur.com/axhsocj.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rGi2ULD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7WJRMuq.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RvZOseE.jpg)
The original fore grip was painted hickory, which was sanded and painted black with a spray can and urethane applied
(http://i.imgur.com/M8UmelU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/2lNi0GP.jpg)
So I now present the AlanTani.com Nep-Tuna
(http://i.imgur.com/rGi2ULD.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NaFfn0f.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ITtlC3p.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bQSNU51.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BEvCtex.jpg)
And as I promised Big Tim I added a little personal touch, I recently reached 20 years state service with my department, so I used an older 15 year state service pin to cover the hole drilled in the cradle to secure the old butt section, with a little application of a hammer and some leather for padding, I molded the pin to match the curve of the cradle socket.
(http://i.imgur.com/1ZhgLEN.jpg?1)
Lessons learned, take your time and think out every step, I would wait many days between steps; thinking, researching, and asking questions before the execution of each step. I have met some very special people here and would like to consider them as friends and brothers on a very short list. Always be willing to "pay it forward", the components donated to me would have cost 5 times the original cost of the rod, but these people have made it a reality and something really special. Thank you to everyone for following this adventure. Now time to find that International 80 for 25 bucks ;D
Cool Beans to my brothers and sisters and friends of the AT community.......Bill
Wow that came out great, down to the hickory handle. The badge is a nice touch. Time to hang a fish on it! Sheridan
That is simply beautiful. You have every right to be proud of that restoration.
Bill, wow, that's awesome, and the photography great! You have to get some slime on that one before it goes on the wall!
Thank you for the kind words.....this was a good learning experience......Looks like rain all weekend so fish slime is gonna have to wait, but the stripers are running and looking forward to trolling with this set up.....Bill
Congratulations on your 20 year professional accomplishment, Captain!
Best,
Fred
Sublime work for start to finish. Hope you manage some classic fish on that classic gear!
awesome rod and even better restoration
you only see that labor of love on AT.com
Great Work my man!
That is one good looking Combo! ;D
Hey Bill great work. I don't know how you do it in your redneck condo. ;D Dominick
Thanks guys....
Dom the short rods are easy....the longer are problems....butt section sticks out on one side and the tip sticks out the other side...the middle stuff is easy :D :D :D
Late getting back to the party but I think it came out fantastic & am glad I had a small part in this build. ;D
BT