I'm looking for some information on repairing an early 1960's wobbly Abu Ambassadeur 5000 frame.
I was searching online for some information and stumbled across this site.
Wow, this looks like a great site and I'm sure going to spend a lot of time here in the future!
I purchased five of these reels as Christmas gifts for my father and brothers (we love fishing with the old Abu reels), and I planned on refurbishing (disassemble, clean, regrease, etc) each reel prior to gifting them.
Unfortunately, two of the reels I purchased had loose frames so I had to quickly scramble and purchase two replacement reels on Ebay.
To be clear, if you hold one side of the frame with one hand the other side of the frame with the other hand then twist, the side plates are loose on the posts which span between them.
So now, after Christmas 2018, I have a couple reels leftover with loose frames that I'd like to repair if possible.
It looks to me like the posts are peened over and/or staked into place onto the outer face of the frame sides, but I'm not sure.
Has anyone successfully done this before? Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
ps: I have full access to a machine shop, so I can get special tooling made if possible.
I just replace the frames
I trust that someone with Abu experience will chime in here. I am surprised there have not been more responses. Perhaps if you post some pictures of the side plates it will more illustrate your dilemma. Dominick
Yeah. Pictures please. Just got done refurbishing a '73 - 5000, but the frame was tight. Interested in this issue and glad you brought it up, as I get most a my oldies offa "the Bay" and I don't wanna buy one like that unless it's repairable.
And welcome to the site!
When the screws are tightened on the tail cup and head cup doesn't everything tighten up and become rigid? I need to look at mine tomorrow to refresh memory, but it seems like there is a peened dimple about 1/16 inch wide where the cross bars penetrate the frame side plates.
-steve
I have seen a few ABU frames like his.
Sometimes they are even violently skewed from their original square alignment.
This happens when they are subject to severe stresses like "I think I just backed over something"?
Someone with a lot of time, the right tools and true dedication might be able to restore a loose or warped frame but as you have found, it's just much easier to replace it.
I would try something like silver soldering to restore rigidity but I do not possess the machine skills that others here might.
The following pics may provide some insight on how to approach this.
If you can find them I'd replace the frames, if not you have parts reels.
Thanks for all the advice fellas...it seems like there is some interest in this topic. I'll try to get some pictures and post them. To respond to oc1, yes everything tightens up when the reel is functional, but I would imagine that the slop would only increase over time during tear downs. Like you said, the joints appear to be a peened dimple about 1/16 inch wide where the cross bars penetrate the frame side plates. Silver solder is an interesting idea. I've heard about this but have never done it myself. I can do simple welding and electrical soldering, so I'm sure I can learn. I was hoping that with the right tool I could "re-peen" the cross bar edges over and tighten things up.
Matt
Anything can be done, Matt —
Given the right amount of time, materials, patience, and a little luck.
I am not sure that light welding in these materials, or soldering would be a solid fix — they might though.
These frames were put together by craftsmen using a frame jig — and mechanical pressure and tolerances that needed to be very tight as well as exactly square.
When you are done — it may be OK — or it may be an issue waiting for a big fish to fail it again.
I wish you success — but another frame is what I would do —
Just my opinions.
Best,
Fred
What I have done to make a torqued frame usable is to apply a little green locktite sleeve retainer to the joint of post and plate, then peen around post area of plate with an automatic spring loaded center punch. Nice flat area like granite counter or similar is helpful in keeping frame square.
Three or four punches around each frame post tightens the interface up nicely.
Of course, YMMV.
Hope this helps.
I have some thoughts on a fixture to hold the two frame side plates concentric so I can peen over the cross bars with a custom punch. I'm going to meet with a machinist friend to discuss this (he loves weird projects) but it might take a few weeks. I'll be sure to post any updates so we can all learn. I realize that it's easier and cheaper to simply replace the frame, but the used frames I've seen on Ebay were around $25 and corroded. I have two loose frames that are in beautiful shape, so I'm hoping to fix them.
Good luck. Be sure to report back after you have tried. Pictures tell the whole story better.
I've done a ton of ABUs and only seen one with the frame out of whack like that and it got crushed a bit. My recommendation would be to get a new frame. It would be tough to get it set true and not have your spools rubbing or line guide binding, etc.
I think the frame is #5157 and they are available for around $25.00.
I would say a new frame would be the best option, if you loose a large fish, as the old frame fails, for example, a Western Australian DHU fish @ $70 to $85/Kg. I think the $25 would be a good investment, and you would have more chance of landing the fish. good luck cheers Don.
Quote from: Walleye Guy on February 06, 2019, 06:16:08 PM
I have some thoughts on a fixture to hold the two frame side plates concentric so I can peen over the cross bars with a custom punch. I'm going to meet with a machinist friend to discuss this (he loves weird projects) but it might take a few weeks. I'll be sure to post any updates so we can all learn. I realize that it's easier and cheaper to simply replace the frame, but the used frames I've seen on Ebay were around $25 and corroded. I have two loose frames that are in beautiful shape, so I'm hoping to fix them.
Forget the idea of buying another frame. You only have to do that if the suggestions for repair don't work. You'll never know if you don't try. Dominick
Tightening the side plate screws will keep the frame square and rigid. With the reel disassembled, you can make any Ambassadeur frame flex and wobble bare-handed. Some are worse than others The weak peening is not for structural integrity, but convenience. If it was for structural integrity then ABU would have pressed them in like the gear shaft.
-steve
I realized the other day that I didn't report back on my project. Sorry, my bad. The fixture that I set up did not work, but a spring loaded center punch worked perfectly. I did one "pop"/punch at 12,3,6 and 9 o'clock positions around each loose post.
Quote from: Walleye Guy on June 10, 2020, 05:06:41 PM
I realized the other day that I didn't report back on my project. Sorry, my bad. The fixture that I set up did not work, but a spring loaded center punch worked perfectly. I did one "pop"/punch at 12,3,6 and 9 o'clock positions around each loose post.
Glad the technique worked for you. I have done several frames this way.
Tip: with the slotted thumb screw reels, after finger tight, give an 1/8th additional turn with a dime or penny.