I've got a set of shimano tld15s that I use (and am very hard on) for king mackerel fishing in North Carolina. I've had them for 10yrs or so and 2 or 3 times, the local tackle shop has taken them apart, greased, and replaced parts as required. They're due again and I think I'd like to give it a try myself. Internet searching has led me to this webpage which is really helpful.
I do not need to upgrade the drag as we do not use very much of it at all. 2-3 lbs is prety typical.
I'm looking for a list of tools, parts, and where to buy everything to get started. I figured I'd break one down and see how it goes and go from there.
Thanks for all the advice. JEW
You should not need any speical tools to service the reel. The special wrench to remove the drag cooling shield is helpful, but not necessary.
Grease and oil is your preference. Common lubricants are:
Inox - starting to see it more in the US.
TSI 301 - http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1018.0
Corrosion X and Reel X - from your local fishing supply or contact them directly at http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=340.0
Xtreme Reel - At your local fishing supply. ProReelServcie may still have some as they were running a special http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=677.0
and a host of other.
Blue Marine Grease (Yamaha is probably the most common on this site). From your local Yamaha dealer. I use Evinrude Triple Guard folded with Corrosion X.
Drag grease - Shimano from shimano or your local fishing supply or Cal's universal drag and reel grease from Cal Sheet directly or from Dawn from SmoothDrag.com.
Schematics - http://alantani.com/index.php?board=15.0
Parts - Shimano
Bearings - Boca Bearings or from SmoothDrag
Did I leave anything out?
6oz aerosol corrosion-x
1 Smooth Drag Carbontex Shimano TLD 15
1 for shimano TLD 15, 20 & 25 single speeds
1 ea. 7x17x5 & 6x12x4 mm $14.99
Abec 5 Oiled Bearing Set (2)
Cals Universal Grease 1 oz
This i what I'm going to order from Charkbait.com. (drag washer, corrosion-x, universal grease, and bearings). One question I have is the grease. I see comments about yamaha grease and about shimano drag grease (which I'm substituting the cals grease for). Do I need both greases? Thanks for the help.
Cal's Universal Grease is good for all purposes reel grease for internals and drags. You really don't need to use others, but Cal's grease is relatively more expensive (rightly so, it's a good grease).
Sounds like you are ready to go. Let us know how it comes out and post pics if you would like to share something or have questions about the reel as you are servicing it.
smoothdrag.com
Add in a screwdriver (I like the interchangeable-head type) and a copy of the schematic and you should be set to go. Bryan is right, the cooling shield removal tool is helpful but not necessary.
I'm in the Raleigh area. If you're nearby and need help let me know. I've worked a fair bit on the TLDs.
Thanks for everyone's help. Got a few more questions...on some of my reels, the preset knob is frozen. How do I remove? Wrench?
Grease clarification...I can use Cal's grease everywhere. You guys, though, are saying the Yamaha grease is acceptable everywhere except for the drag washers. The only advantage here is the yamaha grease is less expensive.
Quote from: JEW on August 24, 2010, 09:07:32 PM
Thanks for everyone's help. Got a few more questions...on some of my reels, the preset knob is frozen. How do I remove? Wrench?
I would try spraying corrosion X in there (try to soak it) and let sit for a overnight then try again. If still doesn't budge, add more corrosion X, soak it another day or two and then cloth covered pliers and work it slowly. Note, this is my opinion and not necessarily your or should be yours. This is what I would try first.
Quote from: JEW on August 24, 2010, 09:07:32 PMGrease clarification...I can use Cal's grease everywhere. You guys, though, are saying the Yamaha grease is acceptable everywhere except for the drag washers. The only advantage here is the yamaha grease is less expensive.
Yes, you can use Cal's grease everywhere. Yamaha grease sticks to surfaces really well and is less expensive.
For an old time crusty east coast perspective I'm going to suggest you don't need any fancy upgraded bearings nor do you need to remove shields and oil your bearings. IMHO this trend got started by guys that need to cast and/or need great free spool to let baits run. I suggest we need neither on the east coast.
For those that don't know we basically lower our (big and frisky) live bait into the water and let it swim to its doom. On the way out we remind her it is just as easy to marry a big fish as a small one. We keep it in free spool and strip line untill her school girl quivers start happening. Sometimes we advertise her under a kite. We generally reserve that for desperation time or when we are angling for a doctor, lawyer, or sailfish.
TLD 15 huh? Glad to know someone is still seeing serious smokers. I'm down to a 2500 spinner as all I see are snakes here these days. Personally I never considered them to have a soft mouth and don't feel the need to fish low drag ratings and have tons of line. Then I don't catch them for money so what do I know:)
I agree - I do not think that I need any fancy, upgraded bearings. I would, though, like to have durability. I do not cast, don't need freespool at high drag settings, etc. I'm going to give this a shot, we'll see how it works out.
Next question - Where do I get standard drag washers and bearings? And are they significantly less expensive?
Thanks; Jonathan
You really, really should replace the canvas Shimano drag washer!! You can get a carbontex drag washer and the bearings at Smoothdrag.com. Good prices on bearings. The carbontex drag washer costs a few dollars more than a stock drag washer but it is worth every penny. Really.
I've got a carbontex washer on order. More internet surfing yields more questions, though. Is the carbontex washer a different size than a standard washer meaning I'm going to have to shim or take out something else? I'd like to put the reel back together exactly as it is. It works perfectly for what I do. Next question is greasing the washer. Seems these reels, as standard, use "dry" washers. I'm going to follow the rebuild on this site exactly but want, also, to understand what I'm doing. Is greasing the washer because of the type (carbontex) or just because it's better?
Hopefully I'll get the stuff by this weekend and can go to work.
Thanks.
I do think a greased carbon fiber drag washer is a worthwhile upgrade. The drag should be smoother and exhibit less "start up force needed" to get the drag going. This can be a blessing when the fish makes a surge close to the boat (think gaff time).
Quote from: JEW on August 25, 2010, 02:18:56 AM
I've got a carbontex washer on order. More internet surfing yields more questions, though. Is the carbontex washer a different size than a standard washer meaning I'm going to have to shim or take out something else? I'd like to put the reel back together exactly as it is. It works perfectly for what I do. Next question is greasing the washer. Seems these reels, as standard, use "dry" washers. I'm going to follow the rebuild on this site exactly but want, also, to understand what I'm doing. Is greasing the washer because of the type (carbontex) or just because it's better?
Hopefully I'll get the stuff by this weekend and can go to work.
Thanks.
I put a greased (cals) carbontex drag from smoooth drag in my TLD 15 and it fit perfectly.
Just put my first reel back together & not quite a success. I cannot get anything but freespool. I feel pretty confident that I'm doing something wrong as I put the preset knob and lever back on but cannot figure out what it is. There's a little play in the spool from the spring that's between the 2 little bearings. Should the spool be able to move some before I get the side plate back on? Thought that may be the source of my problem.
Couple pther generic questions. I wound up not changing out any bearings or the drag washer. I bought a bearing kit and 1 washer. Figured I'd see how this goes and get more as I need. All looked ok so I figured I'd change one in another reel that looks in worse condition. I bought a smoothdrag bearing kit. How come only 2 bearings come with it when the reel requires 4? Are there 2 bearings that are more important that should be changed? They also appear to be sheilded bearings. Should I take the sheilds off these new bearings? Is there a place I can buy unsheilded bearings?
Thanks for the help. JEW
One other note. Just looked at another reel. When I take that one out of freespool, the spool shifts to the right (towards the handle, drag assembly). The reel I took apart has the spool shifted to the left and does not move when you move the lever drag.
I took the reel back apart and reassembled. Cannot find anything inside. I'm 99% sure my mistake is installing the lever and the preset knob. Any tricks of the trade to know?
If that's it, make sure when installing that the lever is in free spool position before installing the cam. Some reels have 2 or even 3 different positions (just learned that yesterday from Jim Nomura). Then install the pre-set knob and slide the level and see if there is any bite If not, slide the lever back to free spool, tighten down on the preset knob slight and try again. If too much bite or no bite, then remove the pre-set knob, pull the cam out and try another postion. Hope this helps.
what bryan said ..... can you let us know? :-\
I did not have the preset knob installed correctly. If you read above, I was not able to turn the preset. I put a pair of pliers on the knob, tightened it down and it works great. I can now turn the knob easily.
Still have bearing questions from above. The reel also doesn't feel as smooth to me as it should. It's basically exactly like it was; it's certainly not worse. Should I put in the new bearings? If so, I only have 2 bearings. How do I tell if a bearing is bad. The small bearings have the shields on them, the big bearings have shields on one side. I cannot get the sheilds off.
Thanks for the advice.
Got the 1st one together figured I'd try a second. This one is in much worse condition. Got everything apart & back together but got another problem with the preset. The brass/copper piece that goes inside the lever is stuck to the preset knob. Any ideas on how to get these apart? I've got corrosion-x all over them right now. We'll see if that works. JEW
Bearing Question - How do I decide if a bearing is shot? I changed out 1 in the second reel that I did. The bearing I took out had some surface rust on it but it spun pretty good. Not sure if it needed changing or not. Thanks for the help.
Same question for drag washer. How is a drag washer deemed needing to be replaced?
Ebay has 10 7x17x5 bearings, no shield, stainless steel for $50. I have 4 tld 15s and 6 25s. Are these bearings good for these reels? This is much cheaper than smoothdrag or charkbait. JEW
if they are abec5 stainless, you should be fine. it's just hard to be sure, there should be a code stamped into the shields (but these have none) or printed onto the outside race to verify the type of bearing, abec rating, and materials used. i'd rather see you order from smoothdrag.com and not take a chance.
to check a bearing. just push on the inside race and turn it. if it is rough at all, toss it. surface rust is your first sign of trouble.
the cam and preset knob commonly stick together. get a big pair of pliers, grab the cam. twist the knob by hand and let's hope it comes apart.
check out the bearing post to help get the shields out. keep in touch. your're doing great! alan
I buy a lot of bearings for pumps and motors. Quality and price are all over the place. I wouldn't touch ebay unless the name was stamped on the bearing and it was in the original package. Used to be all I'd buy was american and european. Now the japanese make quality bearings as well.
I'd advise you find the industry standard number for your bearings. IIRC you need a pair of SMR126 and a pair of SMR697 but this depends of when your reel was made. I'm sure Alan can help you out here. Then you can compare prices from known bearing supply houses. Or you can spend a bit more and go with a proven source. Boca bearings orange seal line is one such alternative. They have ceramic balls in a stainless case with a non-contact seal. They run about half again as much. Say 40 bucks for regular stuff and 60 for them. Total overkill in many ways but if you re-lube a couple times a year they should out live you.
At all depends on how much you like your reels and what they are worth to you. I happen to think the smaller TLD's are great little reels. If you have been pleased with them a new set of bearings is worth the money IMHO.
OH....if you buy the Boca's be aware they come un-lubed but they will lube if asked to do so. Oil offers best performance and ease of re-lubing but grease requires less mantenance.
I think I have a pretty good handle on these reels. I've cleaned and greased two of my 25s as well.
I've messed up one of the handles, though, on a 15. I stripped out the set screw that lets you take off the black piece on the handle. I then made it much worse. Should I drill out the hole and put a really small bolt or is there another solution? Thanks.
Some of those screws/handles strip easily. Just check the locking nuts holding the handles before and after each fishing trip. You should not have any problems. If you want a added assurance, you can re-tap them.
I've had the chance over the last 2 weekends to use my reels. Caught a few fish and have noticed a consistent problem...the clicker is pretty much non-existent on all of them. Before the service there was no grease on any of them, since I've greased them, the clicker no longer works. Any connection? Must be something I've done as it's on all the reels. Thanks; JEW.