I've got a couple 332's and would like to upgrade one for my son. I'm getting an old graphite rod re-wrapped for him and want a nice, light reel to go with it. He's actually been fishing the combo for a couple years, this will just make it "new".
So, here's what I want to do.
Gear it down to 4:1
Get more drag out of it.
Better handle (looking at Penn 24S-225 counter balanced handles ?)
I would like to fish 50 braid with a 40 lb mono topshot. Am I asking too much on that one?
I'm sure all this info is here...got tired of searching. Numbers don't search well. Thanks!
These are the pictures from my Newell P338 that I changed the gears from Newell 5:1 stainless steel to Penn 4:1 chromed steel gears. The drag was also upgraded to 5+1. I recently bought the aftermarket stainless steel gear sleeve to test it out too. Everything worked fine and the drag is very smooth.
a couple more pictures
Some Newell 3.6 gears will be manufactured soon. You can actually go to a full 6 stack drag but I would have to work on the sleeve for you to make that happen. The 5+1 kit does work quite well.
You may want to check out the handles on ebay that have the rounded aluminum grip which are very comfortable and light in weight.
Cool Newell Nut. Looking forward to the 3.6 gears and the 6 stack.
Thanks for the replies.
What is the best source for those gears?
Black Pearl will make an announcement when the time is right. Currently the machine shop has the gear sets for a pattern but they have a backlog of projects.
Quote from: Newell Nut on May 26, 2014, 05:02:17 PM
Black Pearl will make an announcement when the time is right. Currently the machine shop has the gear sets for a pattern but they have a backlog of projects.
So............what is the status on those gear sets??
That will allow 5 drag washers? What would the expected drag be and is the stock reel (frame) up to it?
You can use Bryan Young's 5 stack drag system now on any 300 series. Mine pull 32 lb of drag and no problem for the frames that I tested but make sure you use a rod clamp.
The new gears will be 3.6 to 1 to make cranking a little easier and the pinions on the 3.6 are more robust than on a 5 to 1 set. As far as availability goes we are on the manufacturers list and have wait for our turn. Black Pearl will post a notice when the time is right.
What can you safely fish on a 332 regarding frame stability and drag? What is the stock drag capability? (I've seen a few different #s on this).
Could I fish 40 mono over 50 braid as it sits?
All of my 332s have 40 momoi diamond on them and they catch very large red snappers. As far as stock drag goes if I put 3+1 new CFs with Cals I can lift a 20 lb dumbbell with a 332.
3+1 meaning the washer under the gear is the +1?
That would be plenty of drag. I still want to gear it down though. For now it should be good though.
I opened up the 332 I bought new again and it does have the nylon washer on the left side. Strangly enough I had one of the little metal washers (like what was under the rt side bearing on the used one) loose in the box...........maybe I am forgetting something but I don't see it on the schematic.
IMHO, you can use 40# mono over braid and be fine if you use the carbon fiber washers, whether it's the 3+1 or 5+1. I've got original P's, so I have a true 6 drag system. I've never thought you get much drag from the underneath main gear washer unless you have the fixed ss washer on the bridge sleeve like the P's do.
The stock Newell washers get about 10-12 lbs of drag...it's a 30# (max) reel. All 200-300-400 size Newells use the same exact drag system...they're all 30 lb (max) reels. Way back when I used 40# on my 440 and jigmaster reels. I wasn't getting the needed drag doing this however.
The only reason I have the 6 drag system is so I don't have to max out the drag star when applying pressure on tuna, yellowtail etc. Just because I can get 25+ lbs of drag on the 6 drag system doesn't mean I have to use it all. If I had an 80# topshot on my P332 I'd be able to use the full 25 lbs of drag, however, that's where I'd run into potential issues with frame integrity IMHO. I didn't get the Tib frames so I can use 80# topshots, rather, in the event I hook Big Moe, the frame integrity will be less of an issue. 60-100 lb tuna put a lot of pressure on a multi-piece frame.
For me and my fishing needs, the 332 is still a 30# reel since I use all mono. If I go up to 40#, I go to my 533. If Tib ever puts out a 631 frame, that would be my 50# yoyo rig. Above 40#, I get out my 2 speeds. This works for me...YMMV. There is no "one right way" to skin a cat. It's all good! ;) ;D
Carl caught his 224# yft on a P447 and 60 or 80 lb line. He still was using the stock Newell drags which only put out 10-12 lbs of drag. There were no carbon fiber material back then. I'm guessing he used his thumb a lot to stop the fish. :o
Re the bearing white vinyl washer....they use to come from the factory on the right plate. The metal shims would only be on the left plate side.
X2 on all of that and I love the full 6 stack drags.
Great info.
So does anybody have a source for a left side bearing cap? Both my 332 have the SS cap but my 220 still has the plastic one and when servicing it today it was obvious that it was time for a new one.
Obviously I'd want ss but really anything that is not damaged will work. Next stop, EBAY.
The last Newells I ever purchased were the no letter series with the ss bearing cups. After that, I really didn't pay attention to the reels that much. Was there a special ss cup made to fit on the plastic threads? I've got some spare ss cups but they were made for the old blackies and P's. If they'll fit....great. I know you can buy some aftermarket ss cups...http://www.charkbait.com/cs/maintena.htm
pm me.
There seems to be 2 different style caps. I think you may have the older style. I found some on Ebay (2 for 13 bucks). I think I am just going to pick those up.
Thanks!
You first have to understand the difference between a bearing cup and bearing cap. Make sure you are looking for the right one. If you want a SS cap then email chowderpff7@yahoo.com.
............ok, what's the difference? Cup on right, cap on left? Cap or right, cup on left?
I ordered a couple red anodized ones off ebay. I don't remember if they were caps or cups but they had threads ;)
A reel that has a cap that pushes the bearing for alignment is found where there is only a black cap on the right side. The cap can be SS or plastic. A bearing cup is found on a reel where the bearing is inside the cup on each side of the reel. The cups are a larger diameter than the caps. Bearing cups are on Ps and some Ss and on some Gs.
The reel with a bearing cup can take more torque than a reel with a bearing cap. I bought one recently that had the cap and on the right side there was a crack right through the bearing housing. I found a side plate on ebay with the bearing cup design and the guy refunded enough to cover the cost of the side plate so now the reel is stronger than before.
so my Penn 505 has a bearing cup......if I am remembering it right.
The 500's would have a cup...........but for a bushing, not a bearing.?
What does Penn have to do with this thread? Don't confuse yourself.
Bearing Cups - Newell Blackie, P, G, No Letter and Late Model S series
Bearing Caps - Newell C and early S series (typically replaces the plastic caps)
so my analogy to the Penn reels was incorrect?
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
Quote from: spize909 on June 18, 2014, 03:29:21 AM
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
with the thinner ht -100s sometime you have to double up on the drag washer due to the keyed slots in the gear.
Quote from: maxpowers on June 18, 2014, 03:24:35 PM
Quote from: spize909 on June 18, 2014, 03:29:21 AM
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
with the thinner ht -100s sometime you have to double up on the drag washer due to the keyed slots in the gear.
Which washer (s)? the bottom one?
I have the stock gear if that matters.
edit: just thought of something. Should I still have the stock washer on top of the gear sleeve, even though I added the drag washer there (under the gear)?
the first ht 100 and the metal washer may not have created enough height so that when you placed the second ht -100 and the keyed metal washer it may have bottomed out before there was enough pressure on the stack. You may have to double up the HT-100s on the that goes into the gear. Once you get the 5+1 stack you still have to have a thick drag washer on the first part of the stack. Try doubling the drag washer and see if you get an improvement.
All of my 300 series Newells get over 30 lb of drag with the 5+1 stack. My P 300s get a little more since they are a true 6 stack.
Only in my 631s have I used .6mm CFs for spacing issues as mentioned in the previous post. I use 3 of the .6mm in the bottom of the stack and 4 .5mmcfs and topped with a stock heavy washer. This way the gear is perfectly stacked with 7cfs and 7 ss washers. No idea what the max drag is but I can lift 40 lb dumbbells with all of my 500 and 600 series reels.
When you are buttoned down your star may be against the side plate. If so you need an extra 3-18 washer between the drag spacer and the star to solve your problems. Each reel will need a different number of 3-18s. Keta made me a bunch of custom 3-18s in different thicknesses just for these spacing issues.
Let me see if I understand your dilemna. You've got 3 stock thickness HT-100's inside the main gear and one underneath the main...all are greased. Is this correct? Check to insure you have the ss/cf washers in the correct order. From the bottom of the inside main working up it should be:
cf
ss keyed
cf
ss eared
cf
ss keyed
ss belville (preferably Penn)
drag stack
On top of the drag stack, you'll need to experiment with washers. You'll need 1-3 thin washers..each reel can be different. You don't want to put on so many that you're unable to back off on the star sufficiently. It's easy trial and error. There are a few different washers I use on top of the drag stack. I prefer the thin flat washers and wavy washers. Whatever you do, DON'T use the thin Newell belville. They're notorious for splitting. I found this out many moons ago when I was on a yt. The thick belville is fine but not the thin one.
Not sure how many #'s you'll get with this setup since I only have the original 4 stack and now 6 stack on some of them. I may have gotten 12-14 lbs on the 4 stack using HT-100's...not sure. All 200/300/400 size reels all use the same drag system and weren't designed to go above 14#'s or so. They're all 30# reels. If you can get 14#'s of drag, you'll be border line fine w/40#.
I only got the 6 drag system so I won't have to max out the drag like I use to much of the time...no other reason. It will be nice and smooth with plenty of drag to spare.
If you want to use spectra with heavier mono (above 40), I'd suggest getting the Tib frames. Remember, the Newells are multi-piece frames and therefore subject to more frame flexing. The Tib frames should be more secure. The spool spindles....not sure how much more drag they'd be able to take above their design.
Quote from: spize909 on June 18, 2014, 03:29:21 AM
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
I am 99% sure everything is in there correctly and that the star is not bottoming on the frame.
I'm gonna go check though. I'm guessing that adding washers does nothing unless the star is bottoming out.
Quote from: Tunacious on June 18, 2014, 08:58:50 PM
Let me see if I understand your dilemna. You've got 3 stock thickness HT-100's inside the main gear and one underneath the main...all are greased. Is this correct? Check to insure you have the ss/cf washers in the correct order. From the bottom of the inside main working up it should be:
cf
ss keyed
cf
ss eared
cf
ss keyed
ss belville (preferably Penn)
drag stack
On top of the drag stack, you'll need to experiment with washers. You'll need 1-3 thin washers..each reel can be different. You don't want to put on so many that you're unable to back off on the star sufficiently. It's easy trial and error. There are a few different washers I use on top of the drag stack. I prefer the thin flat washers and wavy washers. Whatever you do, DON'T use the thin Newell belville. They're notorious for splitting. I found this out many moons ago when I was on a yt. The thick belville is fine but not the thin one.
Not sure how many #'s you'll get with this setup since I only have the original 4 stack and now 6 stack on some of them. I may have gotten 12-14 lbs on the 4 stack using HT-100's...not sure. All 200/300/400 size reels all use the same drag system and weren't designed to go above 14#'s or so. They're all 30# reels. If you can get 14#'s of drag, you'll be border line fine w/40#.
I only got the 6 drag system so I won't have to max out the drag like I use to much of the time...no other reason. It will be nice and smooth with plenty of drag to spare.
If you want to use spectra with heavier mono (above 40), I'd suggest getting the Tib frames. Remember, the Newells are multi-piece frames and therefore subject to more frame flexing. The Tib frames should be more secure. The spool spindles....not sure how much more drag they'd be able to take above their design.
Quote from: spize909 on June 18, 2014, 03:29:21 AM
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
I had a P 229 the other day where the Star Bottomed on the Bearing Cup. Added 1 Spacer & problem solved.
Mike
Doesn't seem to bottom on anything. I took it apart and had a look. Everything in place. I added a thin bellville washer (all I had) and predictably it didn't change anything.
I did have a thought and looked around a little. I just bought some new Cal's grease. I had an itty bitty container that I ran out of after a couple years.
I bought the purple stuff for some reason. Could that be a factor? Seems to me grease on the drags is grease on the drags (if it's the right kind). Now after a bunch of hard runs by a fish, I don't know but just pulling on it to check the drag seems like it wouldn't matter.
I just wish that I had the reel here in N Y
Mike
Actually, adding washers on top of the drag stack is part of the design. By building up the stack you're increasing the amount of potential drag.
My offer still stands. Also, it's been awhile since I used Cals grease but if it's grease meant for drag washers then you're fine.
Quote from: spize909 on June 20, 2014, 12:28:28 AM
I am 99% sure everything is in there correctly and that the star is not bottoming on the frame.
I'm gonna go check though. I'm guessing that adding washers does nothing unless the star is bottoming out.
Quote from: Tunacious on June 18, 2014, 08:58:50 PM
Let me see if I understand your dilemna. You've got 3 stock thickness HT-100's inside the main gear and one underneath the main...all are greased. Is this correct? Check to insure you have the ss/cf washers in the correct order. From the bottom of the inside main working up it should be:
cf
ss keyed
cf
ss eared
cf
ss keyed
ss belville (preferably Penn)
drag stack
On top of the drag stack, you'll need to experiment with washers. You'll need 1-3 thin washers..each reel can be different. You don't want to put on so many that you're unable to back off on the star sufficiently. It's easy trial and error. There are a few different washers I use on top of the drag stack. I prefer the thin flat washers and wavy washers. Whatever you do, DON'T use the thin Newell belville. They're notorious for splitting. I found this out many moons ago when I was on a yt. The thick belville is fine but not the thin one.
Not sure how many #'s you'll get with this setup since I only have the original 4 stack and now 6 stack on some of them. I may have gotten 12-14 lbs on the 4 stack using HT-100's...not sure. All 200/300/400 size reels all use the same drag system and weren't designed to go above 14#'s or so. They're all 30# reels. If you can get 14#'s of drag, you'll be border line fine w/40#.
I only got the 6 drag system so I won't have to max out the drag like I use to much of the time...no other reason. It will be nice and smooth with plenty of drag to spare.
If you want to use spectra with heavier mono (above 40), I'd suggest getting the Tib frames. Remember, the Newells are multi-piece frames and therefore subject to more frame flexing. The Tib frames should be more secure. The spool spindles....not sure how much more drag they'd be able to take above their design.
Quote from: spize909 on June 18, 2014, 03:29:21 AM
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
Send me the reel and I can fix it for you. No not any grease works. Cals drag grease is for drags.
NN
So far this person has 3 offers to fix his reel. I'm not that lucky, I do it my self.
Mike
Don't want to spoil your fun Mike. I know you love tinkering. ;D
Nothing else to do but tinker & Baby Sit
Well thanks for the offers, I think I am capable with some guidance.
The Cal's purple grease is for drags, it's just a lighter grease at least that's what I am finding now. I ordered it because it said it was for carbon drags and ht-100s are carbon........right?
I put into about 4 reels (both 332's a 220, a 505 and a 4/0) make that 5 reels. Damn.
I'm gonna try a couple of the others I guess. What does a stock 4/0 with HT-100s get for drag?
I started with a digital Rapala scale, was unsure of that and went to lifting a 10lb dumbell. My little Okuma 5nll and my new Fathom 25n had no issues with it.
You got it. Your on your own.
Quote from: bluefish69 on June 21, 2014, 03:53:22 AM
You got it. Your on your own.
wasn't trying to get anybodys panties in a wad. There are only so many parts to these things and like I said, I can do the work, just need to find some answers.
The Cals Purple is thinner and for cold climates. I see you are in CA which does not qualify as a cold climate. In two years I have never seen anything used on this site but Cals Tan. So why don't you just pay attention? People can't help if you can't pay attention. Good Luck.
Quote from: spize909 on June 18, 2014, 03:29:21 AM
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
For washers configuration you have many options, you could go with a 3+1 - 5+1 - 7+1 or 9+1.
The 9+1 is actually a 5+1, but the washers are hex cut and installed in one of Lee's insert, these will give you 9 working surface.
A stock 4/0 should put out appro. 20lbs, using Bryan's 7+1 kit you will increase the numbers and have smoother drags.
If you're leaning towards cutting your own washers, you could get around 30lbs.
If you're only getting 10lbs, your star is probably hitting bottom, you'll probably need more washers. Make sure the tension springs are in place.
Look around some more there is a ton of information on the 4/0.... good luck!
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 21, 2014, 11:10:51 AM
The Cals Purple is thinner and for cold climates. I see you are in CA which does not qualify as a cold climate. In two years I have never seen anything used on this site but Cals Tan. So why don't you just pay attention? People can't help if you can't pay attention. Good Luck.
Hmmmm, ok then. I thought I was paying attention. Yes I now know that it is a thinner grease designed to be used in colder climates and I screwed up by not sticking with the tan (that I had just run out of). I read the description on ebay to say that it was for carbon drags and it said nothing about climate.
I don't want to send my reel to somebody that I don't know and I have a 2 day in 5 days to get on so I just need to try to figure this out. Sorry if I offended anybody it was not my intention.
Quote from: Alto Mare on June 21, 2014, 12:01:52 PM
Quote from: spize909 on June 18, 2014, 03:29:21 AM
I was testing out the drag on this reel today and with greased HT100's (3+1) I was out barely 10lbs buttoned down tight. What gives? I expected more and want to fish 40 on this reel.
Can I go to a 5+1 with the stock gear?
For washers configuration you have many options, you could go with a 3+1 - 5+1 - 7+1 or 9+1.
The 9+1 is actually a 5+1, but the washers are hex cut and installed in one of Lee's insert, these will give you 9 working surface.
A stock 4/0 should put out appro. 20lbs, using Bryan's 7+1 kit you will increase the numbers and have smoother drags.
If you're leaning towards cutting your own washers, you could get around 30lbs.
If you're only getting 10lbs, your star is probably hitting bottom, you'll probably need more washers. Make sure the tension springs are in place.
Look around some more there is a ton of information on the 4/0.... good luck!
Thanks Alto.
I really am trying to pay attention here.
Just to be clear with the stock parts, I can only do a 3 stack drag, correct? All the searching I have done has led me to believe that.
Also, what do you think on the purple grease? Here is my uneducated guess. It is thinner. It is the same material though. I may have to re-grease my drags more often. Where I actually use it on gears, anti corrosion etc, it will apply a nice thinner coat.
This is from Dawn's smoothdrag.com
The first description is next to the Tan and the bottom description is next to the purple. Did you go to Dawn's site and look at this stuff?
Cal's Universal Reel and Drag Grease:
Introducing a newly formulated grease specifically for fishing reels, this is the only grease you will ever need again! Maximum corrosion protection, fortified with teflon and polymers. Superior heat and wear resistance. Safe for all metals and common plastics. Reduces gear train friction for easier cranking. Use anywhere grease is applicable in any reel.
•Cal's lighter grade reel grease, excellent in colder climates or when a lighter grease is desired.
Looking at the description given by Smoooth Drag, you should probably be fine for your upcoming 2 day, though I would put on the tan grease when you can, especially all the ss parts of the innards. I haven't used it for so long I forgot what color Cal's was! You can also use Shimano drag grease...this is what I've been using for the last x amount of years. My shop seems to be out of Cal's whenever I've needed some so I just pick up the Shimano grease...it's the same thing.
Yes, unless you have an original blackie, original P or very early G series, then the stock Newell drags for inside the main gear has always been 3 for the 2/3/4 series. Before I converted my original P's to Bryan's 5+1 carbontex system, I used 3 HT100's inside the main gear and one underneath. I've gone from a true 4 drag to a true 6 drag system. I've never used a scale to measure how much drag I could get from either system. I did, however, use a 25 lb. dumbell to see if I could lift it with the 6 drag system..I could, without being maxed out on the star. Mission accomplished! NN has conducted tests and I believe (correct me if I'm wrong NN) he got 32 lbs of drag.
With the proper stack installed on your 332 and using 3+1 HT's rather than stock Newell drags, you may get 12-14 lbs max out of your reel using the 3 stack system. Again, I've never measured scientifically. I DO know that these series reels are still 30# (mono) reels. You could put 100 # mono on your 332 and you'd still be getting enough drag for only 30# mono...using the stock 3-drag system. So, yes you can put 40# on your 332 for your upcoming trip...just remember that when you need more drag you're going to have to use your thumb or hand, especially when you're straight up and down on the fish. I'm sure Carl had to do that when using 60/80# mono on his P447 when he got his 224 lb. yft!
Good luck on your 2 day! Hope you guys run into Big Moe and his bluefin brethren! :)
Quote from: spize909 on June 21, 2014, 12:52:39 PM
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 21, 2014, 11:10:51 AM
The Cals Purple is thinner and for cold climates. I see you are in CA which does not qualify as a cold climate. In two years I have never seen anything used on this site but Cals Tan. So why don't you just pay attention? People can't help if you can't pay attention. Good Luck.
Hmmmm, ok then. I thought I was paying attention. Yes I now know that it is a thinner grease designed to be used in colder climates and I screwed up by not sticking with the tan (that I had just run out of). I read the description on ebay to say that it was for carbon drags and it said nothing about climate.
I don't want to send my reel to somebody that I don't know and I have a 2 day in 5 days to get on so I just need to try to figure this out. Sorry if I offended anybody it was not my intention.
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 21, 2014, 01:05:32 PM
This is from Dawn's smoothdrag.com
The first description is next to the Tan and the bottom description is next to the purple. Did you go to Dawn's site and look at this stuff?
Cal's Universal Reel and Drag Grease:
Introducing a newly formulated grease specifically for fishing reels, this is the only grease you will ever need again! Maximum corrosion protection, fortified with teflon and polymers. Superior heat and wear resistance. Safe for all metals and common plastics. Reduces gear train friction for easier cranking. Use anywhere grease is applicable in any reel.
•Cal's lighter grade reel grease, excellent in colder climates or when a lighter grease is desired.
Yeah, after I bought it, put it in and then did a google search on it and saw the description you quoted. The description when I bought it said nothing about climate. (I think I already said this).
The simple question now is, will it work or not? I've never lost a fish due to equipment malfunction (almost last year due to a 505 gear sleeve) and I don't want to start now.
I am chitcanning the idea of fishing 40 on this reel and will put 30 back on as the top shot (over 50lb PP).
Quote from: Tunacious on June 21, 2014, 02:25:29 PM
Looking at the description given by Smoooth Drag, you should probably be fine for your upcoming 2 day, though I would put on the tan grease when you can, especially all the ss parts of the innards. I haven't used it for so long I forgot what color Cal's was! You can also use Shimano drag grease...this is what I've been using for the last x amount of years. My shop seems to be out of Cal's whenever I've needed some so I just pick up the Shimano grease...it's the same thing.
Yes, unless you have an original blackie, original P or very early G series, then the stock Newell drags for inside the main gear has always been 3 for the 2/3/4 series. Before I converted my original P's to Bryan's 5+1 carbontex system, I used 3 HT100's inside the main gear and one underneath. I've gone from a true 4 drag to a true 6 drag system. I've never used a scale to measure how much drag I could get from either system. I did, however, use a 25 lb. dumbell to see if I could lift it with the 6 drag system..I could, without being maxed out on the star. Mission accomplished! NN has conducted tests and I believe (correct me if I'm wrong NN) he got 32 lbs of drag.
With the proper stack installed on your 332 and using 3+1 HT's rather than stock Newell drags, you may get 12-14 lbs max out of your reel using the 3 stack system. Again, I've never measured scientifically. I DO know that these series reels are still 30# (mono) reels. You could put 100 # mono on your 332 and you'd still be getting enough drag for only 30# mono...using the stock 3-drag system. So, yes you can put 40# on your 332 for your upcoming trip...just remember that when you need more drag you're going to have to use your thumb or hand, especially when you're straight up and down on the fish. I'm sure Carl had to do that when using 60/80# mono on his P447 when he got his 224 lb. yft!
Good luck on your 2 day! Hope you guys run into Big Moe and his bluefin brethren! :)
Thanks, we hope to kill a few. I'm ok without big Moe. Medium Moe would be fine....or a bunch of yellowfin and a sprinkling of yellowtail that are over 6 lbs...
32 lb of drag in the 332 is easy to get with Bryan's mods. We use 40 lb mono and I just built one for our captain and he is slaying the mangos with it and Wed he got a 30 lb red snapper with it. We get great performance from our 300 series newells.
Those original 4 stacks converted to 6 stacks are as good as it gets.
42 lb of drag with the 500 series and I do not know the max on my 631s but it is a bunch.
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 21, 2014, 04:15:10 PM
32 lb of drag in the 332 is easy to get with Bryan's mods. We use 40 lb mono and I just built one for our captain and he is slaying the mangos with it and Wed he got a 30 lb red snapper with it. We get great performance from our 300 series newells.
Those original 4 stacks converted to 6 stacks are as good as it gets.
42 lb of drag with the 500 series and I do not know the max on my 631s but it is a bunch.
Sorry buddy, I thought spize was talking about the senators, newell's are your territory ;).
What is the part number for the spacer washers? I have found 3-18 but when searched it's not coming up.
Thanks
3-18 is the correct number. KETA makes them if you need any.
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 22, 2014, 05:59:27 PM
3-18 is the correct number. KETA makes them if you need any.
Thanks, I will contact him but after searching around a little more.......I see 3-318?
3-18 from schematics and it fits all Newells.
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 21, 2014, 04:15:10 PM
32 lb of drag in the 332 is easy to get with Bryan's mods. We use 40 lb mono and I just built one for our captain and he is slaying the mangos with it and Wed he got a 30 lb red snapper with it. We get great performance from our 300 series newells.
Those original 4 stacks converted to 6 stacks are as good as it gets.
42 lb of drag with the 500 series and I do not know the max on my 631s but it is a bunch.
I have to change my stated drag for the maxed out 332. One of my buddies here asked me to max out his P332 and it was a newer one with the 3 stack system. I removed his sleeve and installed my custom sleeve with a .5mm SS washer attached to the sprocket. I showed pics in another tutorial. I then added the .5mm CF under the gear and then of course added the gear and put a 5 stack system in the gear from Bryan. I have never tested my 6 stack so I did this morning. Snatched a 20 lb dumbbell up easily with lots of star left. I then put about 20 yds of 60 mono on the reel for the drag test since it only had 30 on the spool. Tightened the star and got 32. STill had some left so I tightened a little more and the drag would actually slip at 36 lb on the scale which surprised me so I checked the star and there was a tad left. I did not pull again since 36 is more than anyone needs on a 332 anyway but it slipped smoothly at that setting with no failures on the rest of the reel.
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 23, 2014, 12:42:05 PM
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 21, 2014, 04:15:10 PM
32 lb of drag in the 332 is easy to get with Bryan's mods. We use 40 lb mono and I just built one for our captain and he is slaying the mangos with it and Wed he got a 30 lb red snapper with it. We get great performance from our 300 series newells.
Those original 4 stacks converted to 6 stacks are as good as it gets.
42 lb of drag with the 500 series and I do not know the max on my 631s but it is a bunch.
I have to change my stated drag for the maxed out 332. One of my buddies here asked me to max out his P332 and it was a newer one with the 3 stack system. I removed his sleeve and installed my custom sleeve with a .5mm SS washer attached to the sprocket. I showed pics in another tutorial. I then added the .5mm CF under the gear and then of course added the gear and put a 5 stack system in the gear from Bryan. I have never tested my 6 stack so I did this morning. Snatched a 20 lb dumbbell up easily with lots of star left. I then put about 20 yds of 60 mono on the reel for the drag test since it only had 30 on the spool. Tightened the star and got 32. STill had some left so I tightened a little more and the drag would actually slip at 36 lb on the scale which surprised me so I checked the star and there was a tad left. I did not pull again since 36 is more than anyone needs on a 332 anyway but it slipped smoothly at that setting with no failures on the rest of the reel.
Seems rather excessive ;D Is that with a stock frame?
Maxpowers is sending me a 5 stack to try out and I pm'd Keta for some washers as well as ordered the thicker belleville so I can play around with it some.
I will be more than happy to have a smooth 20lbs so I can fish it at 9-15 or so.
Funny thing about this is that until I got my little lever drag Andros I had pretty much just set me drags by feel. I knew I was always on the light side but never realized how much. I bet I've been fishing 30 at 6 or 7 lbs all these years. Deckhands always say I'm good.......
Stock P series frame.