Ok, So the 1/0 build is temporarily halted, I received a Tiburon 6/0 narrow frame and spool from SCRINCH here on the forum. I will put the 6/0 narrow to use more than the 1/0 so I am going to assemble it first. The frame is in great shape, with a few places missing the anodizing, but knowing how hard its going to get abused I'm ok with that. So far for this reel I have ordered, a stainless sleeve, SS AR dog, Cortez side plates (black), and a 7+1 drag stack. I already have a power handle for a 6/0 that i took off the wides, but I may order another one. A "stock" 6/0 will donate the rest of the necessary parts including the gears, I am happy with the combination of a SS gear and brass gear as it should run smooth....
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but, its my understanding that with the narrow a spool vs a wider spool the line builds up faster on the narrow spool which means you gain drag faster, and your effective ratio/ retrieve increases? and both of these give you more power? I choose to stick with the original low speed gears for even more power. This reel is going to be used almost exclusively for bottom fishing in 80-250ft for the usual snappers and groupers and to me power is more of a concern than speed. ( I am pushing the limits on my 4/0 as discussed on other threads).
Still undecided on whether to use braid and then mono or just go all monofilament. I think this reel will work best on a PENN international IGFA 30 rod, unless someone has a better suggestion.
Some putting as seen.
Sounds like a plan. I did the same thing to a 4/0 with all stainless internals, including 4 to 1 gears. I use it for bottom fishing and went with the braid, no stretch and more sensitive to feeling bites in deep water. Good luck.
Order 2 dogs, no big trick putting in the 2nd one, the plates were made to accept it.Order an extra dog spring too.
Quote from: Swami805 on July 05, 2020, 03:01:20 PM
Order 2 dogs, no big trick putting in the 2nd one, the plates were made to accept it.Order an extra dog spring too.
Thanks! I'll add it to my order when I get some drag grease. I'm going to do this build the correct way.
Is the TSI 301/321 really that good or will the Penn reel oil / lube suffice if I'm not trying to cast this reel?
TSI 321 works really well to get bearings to spin well, better than oil.
It's kind of hard to recommend a rod not knowing what lb test line you will fish. If braid backing we would need to know the lightest line lb test or what lbs of drag you will use on the reel.
For bottom fishing, I use all braid with a short leader, especially in deeper water.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on July 05, 2020, 06:18:06 PM
It's kind of hard to recommend a rod not knowing what lb test line you will fish. If braid backing we would need to know the lightest line lb test or what lbs of drag you will use on the reel.
Good point, if I go with monofilament I will use 80#. If I go with braid it will be 150#. I'm not sure how much the 7+1 drag will put out, but I will have it locked nearly
all the way down.....
Quote from: day0ne on July 05, 2020, 07:02:38 PM
For bottom fishing, I use all braid with a short leader, especially in deeper water.
I'm torn, the braid will be good for deep water especially when the current runs (I'm looking at you dry Tortuga's...) But I like the stretch of mono. Maybe 150# braid to 20? Feet of mono then the leader 3-6ft....
Quote from: wideopenoutdoors on July 05, 2020, 02:39:53 PM
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but, its my understanding that with the narrow a spool vs a wider spool the line builds up faster on the narrow spool which means you gain drag faster, and your effective ratio/ retrieve increases? and both of these give you more power? I choose to stick with the original low speed gears for even more power. This reel is going to be used almost exclusively for bottom fishing in 80-250ft for the usual snappers and groupers and to me power is more of a concern than speed. ( I am pushing the limits on my 4/0 as discussed on other threads).
Given two hypothetical reels that are the same (including line capacity), but one reel is tall and narrow, the other wide and shallow:
- the wide reel will cast better
- the tall reel will retrieve more line per revolution as the spool fills.
Getting into more detail on the second point, at the same drag clamping force, the fish will have more leverage for the same yards of line on the spool with the taller reel. This means less drag. On a lever drag, this means more lateral load on the bearings to achieve the same amount of drag. On a star drag, the increased load will be on the dog/one-way bearing, or whatever clutch system you are using (and also the gears when you are winding).
The farther the line is from the center of the reel foot, the greater the leverage against the reel foot. Wide is bad, but only as the line moves to the outside edges of the spool. Tall is always bad.
"Powerful" is not a clear term for me. The amount of energy exerted to wind 10 yards of line against a specific amount of force will always be nearly identical. With a taller spool, you will exert more energy per wind, but wil not have to wind as many revolutions.
Tall spools allow you to retrieve more line per handle revolution when you have less line out, but with a lot of line out, you will retrieve less line per revolution, but will need less force to turn the handle. If these characteristics suits your fishing, then a tall reel will work better.
-J
I'm no expert on rods, but I can recommend that you only use stock 114h sideplates with this tiburon kit. The inner chrome rings will give tighter spool tolerance
Quote from: Maxed Out on July 05, 2020, 07:30:52 PM
I'm no expert on rods, but I can recommend that you only use stock 114h sideplates with this tiburon kit. The inner chrome rings will give tighter spool tolerance
My apologies, I didn't include that this frame doesn't have the relief to hold the side plate instead of using the chrome ring.
First, Ted is being modest when he says he isn't an expert.
Second, as much as I love narrow reels for most applications, fishing with Ted in deep water has shown me that wide reels have a place. If you are bottom fishing, a wide reel with high capacity keeps the outside diameter of the spooled line larger (I hope that makes sense,) providing a higher rate of retrieve and higher drag numbers. Unless you are really jigging hard, the extra weight isn't that big of a deal compared to if you were casting.
I'd load your narrow reel with braid in order to keep the line as close to the top of the spool as possible for dropping deep.
Ronald Jones
I think you're on the right track for Florida head boats,,,,, ;) most there just use 4/0's with 30wt rods,,,,, :) triggers,,vermillion snapper,,,black bass and how deep will you be fishing,,,,,, ;D
Quote from: Benni3 on July 05, 2020, 09:56:50 PM
I think you're on the right track for Florida head boats,,,,, ;) most there just use 4/0's with 30wt rods,,,,, :) triggers,,vermillion snapper,,,black bass and how deep will you be fishing,,,,,, ;D
HEAD BOAT???!!!!! A Grady White TigerCat is a long way from a head boat 🤣 maybe i need an intentional 80tw ?
Quote from: Ron Jones on July 05, 2020, 08:04:34 PM
Second, as much as I love narrow reels for most applications, fishing with Ted in deep water has shown me that wide reels have a place. If you are bottom fishing, a wide reel with high capacity keeps the outside diameter of the spooled line larger (I hope that makes sense,) providing a higher rate of retrieve and higher drag numbers. Unless you are really jigging hard, the extra weight isn't that big of a deal compared to if you were casting.
I'd load your narrow reel with braid in order to keep the line as close to the top of the spool as possible for dropping deep.
Ronald Jones
Agree that making a reel wider gives you more yardage at higher line per revolution.
But I believe it is not correct that the drag has "higher numbers" as the spool is filled. Actually the inverse. The larger the diameter, the less efficient the drag (less drag for the same clamping force), and the more strain on the gears - for the reasons mentioned in my previous post.
Lots of people here like narrow reels, and if that is what you like to fish, then that is the right reel for you. My points are strictly from a mechanical/physics perspective.
For me, if am drop-slow-jigging with a single speed reel, I like a reel with a high gear ratio and a long handle arm. The high gear ratio gives me the high retrieve rate, and the long handle arm gives me back some/most of the leverage that I lost going to the higher gears. The long handle arm is a only at an ergonomic disadvantage when speed winding. BUT, the handle/main gear shaft design on the reel has to be strong enough to support a long handle arm. With this kind of setup, I don't need to oversize my reel just to get the retrieve rate that I need.
-J
Quote from: wideopenoutdoors on July 05, 2020, 10:01:10 PM
Quote from: Benni3 on July 05, 2020, 09:56:50 PM
I think you're on the right track for Florida head boats,,,,, ;) most there just use 4/0's with 30wt rods,,,,, :) triggers,,vermillion snapper,,,black bass and how deep will you be fishing,,,,,, ;D
HEAD BOAT???!!!!! A Grady White TigerCat is a long way from a head boat 🤣
Hehe,,,,, ;) that's a different story,,,,you don't know how bad I like to come down there right now for the goalth grouper,,,,,, :o
Quote from: Benni3 on July 05, 2020, 10:10:30 PM
Quote from: wideopenoutdoors on July 05, 2020, 10:01:10 PM
Quote from: Benni3 on July 05, 2020, 09:56:50 PM
I think you're on the right track for Florida head boats,,,,, ;) most there just use 4/0's with 30wt rods,,,,, :) triggers,,vermillion snapper,,,black bass and how deep will you be fishing,,,,,, ;D
HEAD BOAT???!!!!! A Grady White TigerCat is a long way from a head boat 🤣
Hehe,,,,, ;) that's a different story,,,,you don't know how bad I like to come down there right now for the goalth grouper,,,,,, :o
Open invitation, just give us a few weeks notice. We don't usually Target GG, they are usually hooked when they eat a smaller fish. Everyone makes a big deal about them but I have witnessed my father bring up a Volkswagen sized one from 55ft in a half hour with a stock, yard sale special black plated 4/0 that probably still had the asbestos drag washers.... I have done similar with a long beach 66? And suitcased sized. GG
I'm slowly going through the information presented about the physics behind the reels. Will report back later on that. Going to order the other dog and some drag grease.
Quote from: wideopenoutdoors on July 05, 2020, 10:37:17 PM
[quote author=Benni3 link=topic=31466.msg367933#msg367933
Open invitation, just give us a few weeks notice. We don't usually Target GG, they are usually hooked when they eat a smaller fish. Everyone makes a big deal about them but I have witnessed my father bring up a Volkswagen sized one from 55ft in a half hour with a stock, yard sale special black plated 4/0 that probably still had the asbestos drag washers.... I have done similar with a long beach 66? And suitcased sized. GG
I'm slowly going through the information presented about the physics behind the reels. Will report back later on that. Going to order the other dog and some drag grease.
Thanks very much for the invitation,,,,,,, :D but i'm about 14hr away,,,, :) but let me know if you want me to come down sometime I got a 1/0,,,,9/0 fully built you can try out,,,,,, ;D
Just my opinion,why not spend the money on a Penn International if your just dropping baits to the bottom. I think the Internationals with a few tweaks can handle all that your looking to slay. On ebay there are lots of the older Internationals for fairly reasonable prices as compared to doing upgrades to the old Senators.
Quote from: sabaman1 on July 05, 2020, 11:41:39 PM
Just my opinion,why not spend the money on a Penn International if your just dropping baits to the bottom. I think the Internationals with a few tweaks can handle all that your looking to slay. On ebay there are lots of the older Internationals for fairly reasonable prices as compared to doing upgrades to the old Senators.
True,,,,,, ;) I got a 20and50 international's and a stock 6/0 if you want try that sometime,,,,,,, ;D
Quote from: sabaman1 on July 05, 2020, 11:41:39 PM
Just my opinion,why not spend the money on a Penn International if your just dropping baits to the bottom. I think the Internationals with a few tweaks can handle all that your looking to slay. On ebay there are lots of the older Internationals for fairly reasonable prices as compared to doing upgrades to the old Senators.
A 50 is on the list, after this reel, the 1/0, the 9/0, and then maybe a 50
Quote from: wideopenoutdoors on July 06, 2020, 12:02:12 AM
Quote from: sabaman1 on July 05, 2020, 11:41:39 PM
Just my opinion,why not spend the money on a Penn International if your just dropping baits to the bottom. I think the Internationals with a few tweaks can handle all that your looking to slay. On ebay there are lots of the older Internationals for fairly reasonable prices as compared to doing upgrades to the old Senators.
A 50 is on the list, after this reel, the 1/0, the 9/0, and then maybe a 50
Yes you're on the right track my friend,,,, ;) a 6/0 full blown and a 30wt 2 speed,,,,, :D but let's talk about spin reels what's next D.A.M quick maybe,,,,,,, ;D
150 braid is going to be impossible to break off if you get hung and you'll be cutting it. 100lb is plenty; 20 feet or so of 130 mono for replaceable abrasion guard on the end. the Penn 30 stick will do fine but you will appreciate the 6' over 5'6' if you are using J hooks and have to set it. Just be aware of the roller tip clearance as you will have to wind a pretty big uniknot through it unless you use hollow braid spliced. Hollow also lays flat for a little more capacity, per Porthos here (Wai) who did some comparison on one of his reels.
Re older gen 1 Internationals: gen 1 single speeds indeed can be had relatively cheaply compared to a full 6/0 or 9/0 build. However, there's more to it- the old ones were built for line class fishing, so a 20/30 isn't going to deliver the drag of a 30VISX of today. There is a work around for the older ones but it's about $100 for new drag plate and the other assorted bits that will help bump up the drag, but only so much. With the 6/0 build you already have in progress you will easily exceed the stock drag numbers from an older Int 30, and with a star drag you can lock it down without worrying about thrust bearing failure. Taking an old stock 30, and trying to lock it with 150 braid is going to likely hurt something- they also don't have full frames and the stands are stamped, so you will possibly torque it if the bearings hold with that pressure. Cal Sheets came up with a replacement base for Gen 1 80's for that reason-- people fished them heavy and the stands bent. Not that a 20/30 wont do fine in stock form for grouper, they will, but like any reel, stay in it's design capability. I cranked a 250 lb shark up down there on a bone stock 114HLW and 50 mono; IMO two speeds with 130 braid are in the swordfishing or big tuna realm and overkill on a snapper. This is all my personal experience, owning and fishing the 6/0, 9/0 as well as Gen 1 20, 30, and 50's and later Ints.
If i recall correctly, Sal was able to make 75lbs of drag in a 9/0 with all the goodies, which has essentially same drive as the 6/0. Even at half that, 37 lbs is more than an old 30 makes.
John
Quote from: sabaman1 on July 05, 2020, 11:41:39 PM
Just my opinion,why not spend the money on a Penn International if your just dropping baits to the bottom. I think the Internationals with a few tweaks can handle all that your looking to slay. On ebay there are lots of the older Internationals for fairly reasonable prices as compared to doing upgrades to the old Senators.
I think the main reason for the Senators over the Internationals for bottom fishing is weight. Senators reels that have the same comparable capacity of a specific International would probably weigh half as much. The Internationals are stout and sturdy heavy weight reels. If you holding a rod at the rail, and cranking a fish from the bottom, as long as it isn't a goliath grouper, you won't need the sturdy heavy International. The Internationals were designed to fight big (comparatively speaking) pelagic fish from a fighting chair on a fishing yacht, and replaced the often-used and older Senator line.
This thread was never meant to be a senator vs international discussion so, moving on.
Thor, Do you have a link to the test i looked briefly today and couldn't find it. I plan on taking the donor reel part this week and polishing the parts that will be used, among the list of other on going projects (side note, anyone have a suggestion how to plastic weld a jet ski fuel tank?)
Quote from: jurelometer on July 05, 2020, 10:07:22 PM
Quote from: Ron Jones on July 05, 2020, 08:04:34 PM
Second, as much as I love narrow reels for most applications, fishing with Ted in deep water has shown me that wide reels have a place. If you are bottom fishing, a wide reel with high capacity keeps the outside diameter of the spooled line larger (I hope that makes sense,) providing a higher rate of retrieve and higher drag numbers. Unless you are really jigging hard, the extra weight isn't that big of a deal compared to if you were casting.
I'd load your narrow reel with braid in order to keep the line as close to the top of the spool as possible for dropping deep.
Ronald Jones
Agree that making a reel wider gives you more yardage at higher line per revolution.
But I believe it is not correct that the drag has "higher numbers" as the spool is filled. Actually the inverse. The larger the diameter, the less efficient the drag (less drag for the same clamping force), and the more strain on the gears - for the reasons mentioned in my previous post.
Lots of people here like narrow reels, and if that is what you like to fish, then that is the right reel for you. My points are strictly from a mechanical/physics perspective.
For me, if am drop-slow-jigging with a single speed reel, I like a reel with a high gear ratio and a long handle arm. The high gear ratio gives me the high retrieve rate, and the long handle arm gives me back some/most of the leverage that I lost going to the higher gears. The long handle arm is a only at an ergonomic disadvantage when speed winding. BUT, the handle/main gear shaft design on the reel has to be strong enough to support a long handle arm. With this kind of setup, I don't need to oversize my reel just to get the retrieve rate that I need.
-J
Sorry, got the drag thing screwed up. What I meant to say is that the drag change is less significant because the diameter doesn't change as much.
Ron Jones
The sideplates and internal goodies were delivered yesterday. Tonight I'm going to strip down a loaner reel for the remaining parts and assemble. Will post pics of the process, for critique and approval ;D ;D ;) ;)
The donor reel was disgusting Inside..... I have the parts soaking in some hot water and dish soap...
I started with a random 6/0 off the shelf outside... I do not know the history of this one but I know it was abused in the past.
I liked the green handle. First was to remove the handle, Alans wrench is sweet. then i flipped it over and removed the left side plate. The whole inside was covered in old nasty grease that was near solid. The trim ring came off in two peices. I pulled the spool out and then removed the posts. next off came the bridge screws and the bridge. I was glad to see this one did in fact have the stainless pinion and brass main gear combo. Again it was covered in old dry grease. Does anyone know that the thick spacer under the belleville is for? Will i need it for the 7+1 stack? The two fiber drag washers were hard with grease and solid...
I ended up soaking everything to be reused in gasoline to get the stubborn grease off. Everything is dried and ready for assembly tomorrow....
For assembly tomorrow, do i just wipe a small skim coat of cals on the drag washers and wipe off the excess? Penn reel grease or penn reel lube in the bearings? ILl be using the bearings supplied with the cortez side plates rather than reuse the old bearings.
I think you should take another look in the main gear for another washer. They have three in there. By the way those original washers are asbestos not fiber.The 7+1 kit might need a thick top keyed washer instead of the last thin one. Also install a cupped belville washer on top of the stack. You will probably need a wavy washer between the spacer and the star. Under the main gear I use a delrin washer instead of the cf washer in the 7+1 kit. Rudy
That drag star looks like someone grounded the round ends flat. Probably not a thing, though.
I use a stiff bursh to "scrub" the drag grease into the carbon fiber washers sos not to waste any. If you're short any items let me know as I have some 114H parts that'er leftovers.
The bearings should get a light oil, grease or penn lube won't hurt them but will slow down free spool. TSI321 seems to be the spool bearing lube of choice if you're looking for the best free spool time.
I'm with Rudy, They're should be a couple more washers that come out of the main gear, check that the last keyed and asbestos washer aren't still in there, they can kind of "hide"
It doesn't hurt to measure the height of the original drag stack and aim for that with the replacements. I rub the Cal's in with my fingers then wipe them off.
Will take everything under advisement. I found the third washer when I cleaned all of the parts, it appeared to be in better shape, (did the asbestos washers also have a woven cross hatch pattern on them?), but I cast it aside with the rest of the spares.
When I assemble everything tomorrow I'll check the height and clearance with the new sideplates. Interesting note,there were two wave washers between the star and the handle. I think these reel had alot of different hands on it before collecting dust on the porch... I think the green handle is an oldie?
It's done.... I will post pics and a write up tomorrow. It's been a long day working on trailers and it's late here...
My phone updated and I lost all the pics of me building it....
I took it out today and it didn't work 😔 we benched tested it and everything worked great. Get out to fish and suddenly there's zero drag.... Just lifting the rod tip (even with the drag star all the way down) caused line to spool off. I messed with it and messed with it. Nothing really improved. I took it off the pole and we messed with it some more and it gained some drag but still really low. I didn't want to take it apart on the boat. I plan on taking it apart tomorrow morning. Very disappointed as I went to great lengths to ensure everything was correct.
That's a big disappointment, but I am confident with the folks here that it is most likely something minor and easily fixed since you had it working well before you left the dock.- john
It sounds like the upper eared washer has the ears on top of the main gear edge. It looks like your thick wavy washer is on upside down. It looks like to much space left above the star. You may have backed the star off to far allowing the drag stack to lift up the last eared washer & then turned the handle. You can try to put light pressure with the star against the spacer & crank the handle. Sometimes a couple of times & sometimes 50 times. That usually nudges the eared washer around to the next slot. When the star goes slack it probably dropped in.
Quote from: RowdyW on July 18, 2020, 01:50:43 AM
It sounds like the upper eared washer has the ears on top of the main gear edge. It looks like your thick wavy washer is on upside down. It looks like to much space left above the star. You may have backed the star off to far allowing the drag stack to lift up the last eared washer & then turned the handle. You can try to put light pressure with the star against the spacer & crank the handle. Sometimes a couple of times & sometimes 50 times. That usually nudges the eared washer around to the next slot. When
the star goes slack it probably dropped in.
I think you are correct, I'll take it apart soon and update.
I took the reel apart today and couldn't find a thing wrong with it... :/ the only thing i could think of is like RowdyW said, an eared washer came over the main gear edge, but went back down. It appears that I may need to add a thick washer to this setup. as you can see with star all the way down the drag stack fits down in side the gear. I laid the entire stack out...
Star wheel, two wave washer, spacer sleeve, belleville, drag stack,main gear, under gear washer.
Usually the last keyed washer & last fiber washer is above the edge of the main gear. Measure the entire drag stack CF & metals without the cupped washer. It should measure .497" give or take a few thousands. You probably won't need the wavy washer above the star, only the thick wavy washer on top of the spacer. Of course you will need the cupped washer on top of the drag stack. Clear as mud, right? :D
Quote from: RowdyW on July 19, 2020, 08:16:35 PM
Usually the last keyed washer & last fiber washer is above the edge of the main gear. Measure the entire drag stack CF & metals without the cupped washer. It should measure .497" give or take a few thousands. You probably won't need the wavy washer above the star, only the thick wavy washer on top of the spacer. Of course you will need the cupped washer on top of the drag stack. Clear as mud, right? :D
I'm getting .470..... Going to add an extra thick washer between the bellville and the spacer sleeve I think.... Or maybe...... Just add another drag washer set ???? 🤔🤔🤔🤔
I think that I gave you the wrong dimentions. I gave you specs for a 113h. The 114h stack height is .543 . So you have to make up .070 more on top of the drag stack with a combo of keyed washers. A cf drag washer does not make a good spacer. Use metal.
Quote from: RowdyW on July 19, 2020, 10:01:12 PM
I think that I gave you the wrong dimentions. I gave you specs for a 113h. The 114h stack height is .543 . So you have to make up .070 more on top of the drag stack with a combo of keyed washers. A cf drag washer does not make a good spacer. Use metal.
I was thinking about a pair of cf and metal washers... 8 stack anyone? However, I have a washer from another reel I can use.
It can't be an 8 stack unless you can get another eared washer on top of another cf washer & all down into the main gear & another cf & a keyed on top of it all. It will not even come close to fitting. The stack has to be an odd number. 5,7 9, etc.
So we reassembled the reel tonight. Right off the bat we noticed that the grooves in the main gear for the eared washer were not milled deep enough for this drag stack
Meaning, the carbon fiber washer under the first eared one sat below the cut out, so when the eared washer sat on it the ears held it up and no pressure was applied to be bottom 2 CF and the 1 Keyed washer, probably what was wrong.. As indicated by a eared washer with the ears bent.....
Everything installed easy once we swapped the order of the eared vs keyed. I added a thick washer below the bellville, however, once assembled i had to pull line and reel a few times to get drag beyond a few pounds. This was with the wheel all the way down. Then it started working correctly, the first 1/2-3/4 turn of the drum (1ft of line pulled) the drag was low and ramped up to full drag quickly (I couldn't hardly pull anymore line). Is this typical of a greased drag stack? I have Never had a greased stack.....
What is the order of all the washers starting in the bottom of the gear. I don't understand the swapping around.
The picture you show previously had the drag washers in the correct order. You might need a thicker CF washer on the bottom of the stack to get the eared washer to seat, a penn HT100 stock washer might work if you have one.
The drag shouldn't get progressively harder as you pull line off,it should be pretty consistent.
The CF washers in the 7+1 kit are original 114h cf washers. Only the metals are thinner. There are three ways to solve the shallow groove problem. One way is to double up on the first CF washer or two take the top thick keyed washer & use it as the first keyed washer or three grind the groove deeper down.
Quote from: Swami805 on July 21, 2020, 01:53:43 AM
The picture you show previously had the drag washers in the correct order. You might need a thicker CF washer on the bottom of the stack to get the eared washer to seat, a penn HT100 stock washer might work if you have one.
The drag shouldn't get progressively harder as you pull line off,it should be pretty consistent.
Good solid advice Sheridan 👍
By the time he gets to his fourth eared washer, he should be ok.
Sal
Typing at the same time Rudy.
Yes, adding 2 carbon fiber washers will also do it.
He should do just fine, you guys are guiding to a good direction with different options👍
Sal
Update on the reel.....
After rebuilding it and taking my time I finally got back out on Saturday. And it didn't work.... :-[ with the drag star all the way down as tight as two people could turn it would barely hold the spool steady if I picked up on the rod tip with a 8oz weight at the end of 100ft of mono...
I'm not sure what it could be. My dad thinks it's the drag grease "why would you grease a brake". Could i have toomuch??? I'll set my go pro up and record me taking it apart and rebuilding it.
Sounds like the drag stack is still wrong. Can you see the spacer sticking out of the side plate under the drag star when backed off?
Yup, check your drag stack, sometimes the washers fall out when your putting it together and the eared washer comes out of the slot especially if the top keyed washers sits above the top of the gear.
You grease a brake because you don't want the brake to be sticky when it starts to turn. The drag stack has to be wrong, there are millions of reels with greased drags.
Good luck,
The Man
I agree with Swami, the top eared washer is on top of the gear & not in the groove.