Does anyone know the the thread to tap a piece of aluminum for jigmaster 500 spacer bar? For the left and right side plates? 38-7 and 39-5 are the penn part numbers of the original screws. Would it be easier to use those or to tap and use a different thread size?
Apologies if this is answered already, but I'm new to customizing reels and there is sooo much info on this site. It's awesome! I have some aluminum and want to build spacer bars on my Jigmaster 500, and possibly make a 501 set if it goes well.
Hi Chuck, It's 5-40 UNC thread for the frame screws (bars, stands and posts) on jigmaster, squidder and most penns smaller than 349 & 4/0 size. A lot of people use the stainless allen drive cap head screws for the jigmasters. I'm in Aus and get mine here but McMasters seems to be a popular source for stainless screws in the US. I'm not sure what tools or equipment you've got but the tricky part for me is to get the screws at each end aligned so the bar sits square- I ended up making a jig to drill both ends. https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=26065.0 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=26065.0)
There are probably easier ways that I haven't found out about yet. I've tried a couple of stands and bars with careful measuring and have had mixed results, probably due to the drill bit wandering a bit.
Have fun with it and show us how it turns out - we're all learning from each other so it's always good to see other people's ideas.
Mike
Oh wow mhc thanks for the info and great project you have going there! It's no machinist and bsolutely don't have the right tools so it'll probably not work out very well :-\ but I wanted a project. It'll be me and my hand held drill and hand tap! Hey I saw that for 5-40 threads to use a #38 drill bit. Is that right? Confusing me with all the conversions and different ways these things are labeled. Thanks for your help! I also looked into anodizing and that seems like a-whole-nother crazy project. Good luck with your projects
I'm no machinist either - that's why I need to make jigs to help me. ;D
There is a great thread on here by Adam (three se7ens) about drilling and hand tapping various materials, https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17892.0 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17892.0) There is a link in Adam's thread to a 'tap drill size calculator' that works out which size bit to use for different % thread engagement. A #38 drill bit will give you around 75% thread engagement for 5-40 thread which is fine for aluminium but too tight for harder materials like stainless that only need around 60 - 65% engagement. I'm more or less quoting Adam with that - have a read of his thread, it has helped a lot of us with drilling and tapping.
Mike
Here's a start. Got the holes drilled but don't have a 5-40 bit yet to tap em
Not too bad for just a couple hand tools and a Dremel. Need some finer sandpaper. Next to make some 501 sized.... Trying to bend 6061 for a frame instead of bars didn't work out as well as I'd hoped.
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Looking good Chuck! I see you have filed or ground a concave in the back to clear the spool so they should be fine. Thanks for showing us how it went and good luck with the 501 width bars.
Mike
PS: Bending a frame would be pretty hard without a lathe or some way to true up the surfaces. Even if you can bend it evenly to the correct diameter the flat bar distorts as it bends and needs to be trimmed back to a flat cross section.
Great job Chuck! I always enjoy seeing stuff made by hand.
I do want to mention though, if you are doing this for self satisfaction, I encourage you to do so, but if you are doing this to try and save a few bucks, I'm going to recommend these and you will be well ahead of the game.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13263.msg133255#msg133255
He also sells these in stainless steel...no anodizing needed:
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12127.0
I'm not selling anything, I just wasn't sure you've seen these.
I remember when I was testing prior to production, I had to send them back so they could remove material from the inner side, so it wouldn't hit the spool. I also mentioned to curve them to help with material removal, so it wouldn't weaken the mounting holes.
Good luck with whatever you decide and thanks for sharing your skills...not easy doing these with hand tools.
Sal
Nice job, Chuck.
Frank
That's a time consuming task but very satisfying when you DIY ! congrats Chuck .
Yeah it's just for a fun little project, I'm probably still going to buy a frame, just seeing what I could do first with what I had at home. The little Dremel sanding wheel came in handy for the concave on the back so the spool has clearance.
Chuck, don't take my earlier comment the wrong way, I would love to see more of your work and thanks for showing us.
I think you did really good.
Sal
Keep at it Chuck, it will be extremely satisfying if you succeed.
No worries Sal, I did not take it the wrong way, merely saying that I'll orobably end up getting a frame since I can't make one but just wanted to tinker around since I'm new to these reels. Got a chuck of stainless laying around I'll probably play with too.
Also I happened across a simple way to etch aluminum so I decided to try it. Would work way better with computer designed stencil/sticker but with good ole electrical tape and a razor blade I think this turned out ok.
This was my 'will this even work' trial piece.
Quote from: Chuck on March 20, 2019, 05:20:03 AM
'...I happened across a simple way to etch aluminum so I decided to try it. Would work way better with computer designed stencil/sticker but with good ole electrical tape and a razor blade I think this turned out ok...'
Chuck
looks good for a first try. how permanent is it?
Steve
It's etched so it eats away the material, very permanent. Only way to get rid of it would be to grind it down
What did you use for the etching? I'm surmising that you covered the piece with electrical tape and used some kind of acid to etch. Correct? Dominick
Looks good.
I tried a while back using a battery charger, vinegar and salt.
I was very happy with the way it turned out, but mine wasn't aluminum.
I'm guessing the same was used here.
A battery charger at low voltage, a positive charge on the part and a negative on a q-tip resting on metal.
Lots of info on the internet, there is also dipping process.
Nice and very durable.
Sal
Gracie professore geniale. I looked up etching on Youtube. Pretty easy. Dominick
That's exactly what I used Sal. I tried it with a nail polish coat and draw whatever you want and a lay electrical tape over it and cut out what you want to be etched method