Other than corrosion resistance, which is not a problem for me as I take very good care of my reels, would there be an advantage to adding a SS gear sleeve, main gear, pinion, etc. if I choose to keep the standard frame and not upgrade to a one piece?
Thanks,
Bob
Bucktail,
I guess it depends on the type of fishing you're doing...
There are advantages with stainless as it provides strength as well as corrosion resistance. For example, many would agree that a SS sleeve will not round off where the handle arm attaches when you fish with button-down drags.
As to the gears, I believe that the pinion gear is SS. As to the main gear, i prefer to use 4:1 gears which are hard to find in stainless, so I try to find the steel gears that penn made in older reels.
Another advantage that SS offers is the WOW factor.
If you don't go with a frame set, I would recommend using the 2-bars instead of the 4-post, just seems a little more rigid.
As Dabigono outlined the main reasons are corrosion resistance and strength. If you are going to fish your reels at drag setting they were designed for, they should work very well for you. I have two 501's and two 506's that I fish with 30lb. test or less. The only modification that I've made is a handle change to Penn 24-56 on two of them. If I do any upgrades on these, it will be because the specific part needs replacement..
Brass gears sleeves round out where they go into the handle arm under high load, SS will not do this. Brass AR dogs wear out faster when used with SS gear sleeves. Brass gears tend to loos their teeth under high loads, SS and steel gears are far stronger.
OK, maybe I didn't word my question correctly. I get that stainless is more corrosion resistant and stronger. What I want to know is, do the SS parts require an aftermarket, one-piece, frame to contain them or will the standard frame work? Or, put another way, will the multi-piece frame be able to withstand the increased power provided by the SS guts?
Bob,
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
Your stock frame will work with the stainless steel components if you fish it with 8-10 lbs of drag or less.
If you're going to push it beyond that, I would recommend getting the frame set because the reel seems to distort/twist under heavier loads, especially with the 4-post setup.
With that said, all most of my 500's and 501's have SS sleeves, D-dog, and an Accurate or Tiburon frame.
with all due respects to other members,
Here is a comparison of an Accurate framed 500.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/10591699356_eab1483ca3_z.jpg)
and a 4 bar set up.
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5508/10591700086_7f0a253f0a_z.jpg)
I hope this helps.
Quote from: Bucktail on October 28, 2013, 04:37:31 AM
...... will the multi-piece frame be able to withstand the increased power provided by the SS guts?
Yes, I have several post framed reels with SS gear sleeves and AR dogs.
Quote from: Keta on October 31, 2013, 01:53:26 AM
Quote from: Bucktail on October 28, 2013, 04:37:31 AM
...... will the multi-piece frame be able to withstand the increased power provided by the SS guts?
Yes, I have several post framed reels with SS gear sleeves and AR dogs.
I pushed my jigmaster with bars and brass reel seat plate to 24# without warping. Just make sure your screws are tight and you should be good.
Very good. Thanks guys.
Weight: depending on how you fish weight. I gave my nephew a Tibron/jigmaster only because I fish from a kayak and jigging that boat anchor was a beast. I have a another reeel same set up but instead of tibron, it has Newell componets, world of difference. The internals were/are SS, but the outside is Newell Graphite, which IMHO from a kayak fisherman is a better WTG.
You're right about that Kmstorm,
I gotta agree with you about a Newelled out Jigmaster. Here is a pic of mine that i love to fish.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2820/10972480696_de35d1443a_z.jpg)
I guess it boils down to my first comment about "it all depends on the kind of fishing" we're doing.
On a kayak, the Newelled Jigmaster would work out better.
On a stationary platform, like a boat out of San Diego after Bluefin that are 40 - 70 lbs, I think I'm sticking to a Tib or Accurate framed Jigmaster.
But when it comes to cost, I guess we can't beat the stock 4-post setup.
IMHO
My only comment is I think the 8-10 pounds is selling the Penn stand short. Especially on a Jigmaster with bars as opposed to posts. Sal has twisted a stand on a Senator @ 25ish pounds and Bryan just mentioned that kind of weight. I'd say 15 pounds is well within the safety margin. That means 40-50 pound line easy and a Jigmaster is only so big so capacity becomes an issue.
Don't get me wrong, I love Newelled reels and aftermarket frames. I have noticed that they make the reel smoother and cast better. This comes from them keeping the reel square I believe, but I don't know that they are necessary on a 500 sized spool. If the reel is a wide spool and has the capacity for 60 pound line then we're getting into the area where an upgrade is more than a nice to have.
Ron
Quote from: noyb72 on November 21, 2013, 05:46:46 AM
Don't get me wrong, I love Newelled reels and aftermarket frames. I have noticed that they make the reel smoother and cast better. This comes from them keeping the reel square I believe
That's a good point Ron, the Newell, Tiburon or Accurate frame can keep the reel squared which reduces binding or friction making the reel smoother.
I like 30-30 combination: 30 Pound P-line than followed by 30 Pound braid. The braid gives less drag in the water when trolling from boat or kayak. Every little difference helps.
Hello everyone, I'm a newbie to site. I'm looking to install a stainless sleeve on my 500s my question is should I also put in a stainless dog ? Thanks.
They are cheep, I sell them for $3.00 each, and Alan sells them as a set with the gear sleeve.
I just finished a jigmaster upgrade and went w/stock gears, Brian's drag stack, and stock sleeve (coarse thread), and upgraded handle arm. The spool capacity is limited so I chose 30lb mono to maintain capacity. The reel tested smooth drag at 23lbs, but intention will be to fish it at 10lbs (1/3 line strength), and keep full limited to 15lbs (50%line strength). The 30 gives you plenty of capacity to maintain retrieval rate and decrease drag performance degradation on a run. Fishing the drag at less then 50% of max will keep it silky smooth on static, and dynamic, and the larger handle arm/knob increases crankimg power while keeping the reel well within specs. Total upgrade cost was minimal too. Also, you can catch a heck of a big fish on 30 w/10-15lbs drag (as long as you have water to work with and don't need to stop him now).
Aloha!.
Welcome to the site Mark, glad to have you here with us.
I would highly recommend Keta's stainless-steel dogs along with a stainless-steel gear sleeve, purchased separately.
Or you can get it from AlanT who sells them as part of a SS sleeve Kit that comes with a carbon fiber under-gear drag washer.
Or you might want to hold out for a little while for AlanC (Black Pearl) to release his highly anticipated stainless steel upgrades for the 500/501 Jigmasters.
So many options...
Quote from: Keta on January 26, 2014, 04:21:37 AM
They are cheep, I sell them for $3.00 each, and Alan sells them as a set with the gear sleeve.
Thanks for your help. I've been contact with Alan.
Quote from: Dabigono on January 26, 2014, 04:01:25 PM
Aloha!.
Welcome to the site Mark, glad to have you here with us.
I would highly recommend Keta's stainless-steel dogs along with a stainless-steel gear sleeve, purchased separately.
Or you can get it from AlanT who sells them as part of a SS sleeve Kit that comes with a carbon fiber under-gear drag washer.
Or you might want to hold out for a little while for AlanC (Black Pearl) to release his highly anticipated stainless steel upgrades for the 500/501 Jigmasters.
So many options...
Thanks for the info, I'll have to keep and eye out for the AlanC upgrades.
Hey...I'm a newb here as well. All the guys offer pertinent information. Thighlines666 was perfectly accurate with his dissertation. If there is a cost consideration then purpose and performance need to be calculated into the reasoning of what next and why. I really like what I saw a guy blog about Jigmasters...If you were stuck on an island with new and old fishing equipment the Jigmaster would be the last to fail.
I, personally, like the fact that the Jigmaster is super versatile by changing spools quickly. It takes three times as long to rig terminal tackle as it takes to change a spool. This alone makes this this dinosaur worth any two other reels in my bag. I ditched the other reels and bought 2, 506s. I maxed out my 500s and 506s with every stainless part made. 5 plate carbon fiber drags. Double dog, power handles, 5 to 1 gears. By doing this, I really believe, I will I eliminated half the crap I used to haul on a open party boat. Beyond that I absolutely know without any doubt what-so-ever that my original two 500s will last me another thirty years and my sons will inherit decent fishing equipment when I croak.
Check out what I did and learned from the other guys on "casting 30# aka confused" somewhere close to this subject title on the main page..
Cant get that on satellite!!!
WOTHoyt
These 4 Jigmasters and 6 extra spools of various line weights along with the trolling rig is all me and my son need to catch anything a 2.5 day boat can put me on to. I only hope I could find or afford to find a fish I couldn't catch with these poles. Then my back wouldn't be able to do the job....that's why I bring the kid. Woof-woof
Nice rigs you got there!
Quote from: WOTHoyt on January 31, 2014, 02:19:08 AM
Hey...I'm a newb here as well. All the guys offer pertinent information. Thighlines666 was perfectly accurate with his dissertation. If there is a cost consideration then purpose and performance need to be calculated into the reasoning of what next and why. I really like what I saw a guy blog about Jigmasters...If you were stuck on an island with new and old fishing equipment the Jigmaster would be the last to fail.
I, personally, like the fact that the Jigmaster is super versatile by changing spools quickly. It takes three times as long to rig terminal tackle as it takes to change a spool. This alone makes this this dinosaur worth any two other reels in my bag. I ditched the other reels and bought 2, 506s. I maxed out my 500s and 506s with every stainless part made. 5 plate carbon fiber drags. Double dog, power handles, 5 to 1 gears. By doing this, I really believe, I will I eliminated half the crap I used to haul on a open party boat. Beyond that I absolutely know without any doubt what-so-ever that my original two 500s will last me another thirty years and my sons will inherit decent fishing equipment when I croak.
Check out what I did and learned from the other guys on "casting 30# aka confused" somewhere close to this subject title on the main page..
Cant get that on satellite!!!
WOTHoyt
hoyt, finally got the word from the machinist that made the fine thread gear sleeves. apparently the threads were cut ok, but when he cut the top slot for the handle arm, he use d a bit that was dull and it folded over the first thread. that's why it was so much trouble. the machinst fixed them all. let me know if you want another. alan
Thank you very much, Worked hard on them. All the guys in here were very helpful. All the upgrade parts from all the locals in here were top shelf. At this particular stage of the game, I consider these lifetime rigs. Meaning they'll outlast me...and quite handily I must admit. There is one Frankenstein reel in there and as money permits I'll be filling it with the righteous goods too.
I used to have a dozen rods and reels. Never had a dozen all working at the same time! I was always wishing I had brought something different with me on a trip or wishing I had left something at home. I really do believe I have exactly what the doctor ordered with my new/old/new quiver. I never relied on changing spools to make the adjustment for conditions. Just grabbed another rig. I think I'll have my s--t together with this program.
Must have fish....woof woof!!
Hoyt, NICE line up. These will be around loooong after most of us are gone. Thanks for the picture.
Bob
Recieved my parts yesterday Alan T, thanks. This was my first rebuild 500S (upgraded to stainless sleeve and dog along with new washers and drags) and I think it turn out pretty good. Reel turns nicely just have to wait for better weather here in NJ to try it out. Here on some pics below. Thanks to everyone here on the site for the great info.
Going to send you another PM Alan T about another reel I want to do.
Hello again eveyone, I took apart my 500 and want to install a stainless sleeve and dog in it but the problem I see its not going to be easy like my 500s . The dog on the 500 is pressed on the bridge where as my 500s I was able to remove a clip pull the dog off and slip the new one and put the clip back in, job done. Can anyone give me some info on how I can put the stainless dog on my 500 bridge. Below is a pic. Thanks for any info.
The dog is not pressed on will lift off when you apply solvent to remove the grease that's holding it to the bridge.
Quote from: Irish Jigger on February 13, 2014, 09:56:04 AM
The dog is not pressed on will lift off when you apply solvent to remove the grease that's holding it to the bridge.
Thanks will take a look at it.
Quote from: Irish Jigger on February 13, 2014, 09:56:04 AM
The dog is not pressed on will lift off when you apply solvent to remove the grease that's holding it to the bridge.
Yup it came right off, thanks. The bridge on my 500s had a different set up, it had a clip holding the dog on.
Quote from: Bucktail on October 28, 2013, 04:37:31 AM
OK, maybe I didn't word my question correctly. I get that stainless is more corrosion resistant and stronger. What I want to know is, do the SS parts require an aftermarket, one-piece, frame to contain them or will the standard frame work? Or, put another way, will the multi-piece frame be able to withstand the increased power provided by the SS guts?
Bob,
Wondering how your reel came out? What did you end up doing with it?? Got pics??? :)
I wound up leaving them with stock parts. I didn't see a need to upgrade to the stainless parts at this time. These are not my primary reels and will mostly only get used for striped bass and bluefish on party boats that don't allow braid.
I've cleaned and lubed them, added new drag washers and replaced a couple of small parts. I think they'll be fine for now.
I have a few Jigmasters I have completely stock. I usually use them as loaners for friends and family that don't have gear. It's perfect for that role.
What do you use as your primary reel?
I would still put in a SS gearsleeve, the end of the factory brass ones always round out on my reels.
Quote from: Dabigono on March 05, 2014, 04:22:14 AM
I have a few Jigmasters I have completely stock. I usually use them as loaners for friends and family that don't have gear. It's perfect for that role.
What do you use as your primary reel?
For inshore stuff (stripers etc.) my preferred reels are my Shimano Curado 300 DSV baitcaster and my Shimano Sustain 5000 FE spinner.
Quote from: Keta on March 05, 2014, 04:34:44 AM
I would still put in a SS gearsleeve, the end of the factory brass ones always round out on my reels.
Good advice. Guess I figure I'll just cross that bridge when I come to it.
Great choice using a Shimano's Curado 300. I love using it to sling plastics at calico in the weeds.
Quote from: Dabigono on March 05, 2014, 02:33:32 PM
Great choice using a Shimano's Curado 300. I love using it to sling plastics at calico in the weeds.
Now that's not fair. You need to come back here where you can catch fish and I need to go over there where I can play with calico bass. ;D
Ron
cedros islands in june!
Hoo Yah!