There is not a lot of information out there on these —
Starting with the Champion Series —
1000 - 1400 - 2000 - 3000 - 4000 - 5000
1001 - 1401 - 2001 - 3001 - 4001 - 5001 (1:4 High Speed) - 5001 (1:2.5 Low Speed)
1202 - 2002 - 3002
These 16 reels with various modern features — skirted spools, precision cut bronze & SS worm drives, larger drags top & under, spring-loaded folding handles, adjustable and numbered spool winding points, manual bail closing options, and much more.
Aircraft grade aluminum construction. These reels were German engineered, developed, and built to exact tolerances — using the best materials available for longevity and performance above their design.
These reels were developed and tested by fishing experts around the globe — in severe conditions ranging from the Arctic to the Tropics.
This little 6 page fold-out — has a wealth of information that is hard to find anywhere else.
These (3) series of reels — were the best reels ever produced by D-A-M Quick in Germany, prior to lessening their quality and subsequently moving production to Asia — after the inevitable ownership changes.
I have a group of eight that I am servicing for a client — and the impressive quality of these reels is a hidden gem for many anglers that have no idea how good this group of (16) reels are.
These were produced for about 10 years — starting in the late 70's — up to the late 80's.
Best, Fred
Your not kidding when you say there's not a lot of information out there. I have a 1202 question. My bail popped ot on the side with the round black 'button' or bushing that the hook of the bail wire pivots in (maybe what DAM calls a flange?). When I look inside the hole I can see what looks like possibly a press-in insert that is loose in there.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_2_39_24_355301168.jpeg)
So my questions are:
Is my assumption correct? Is this a hard insert that was pressed into the black aluminum piece from the back side of the black button shaped piece (flange?) to prevent wear?
How would I remove the button shaped part for repair? This is also the part that holds the bite indicator in place. The schematics seem to depict the larger reel (3002) that attach this part with a screw. On the 1202 and 2002 this part is round and smooth with no visible fastener (there's a stud or bolt that can be seen on the back side of the rotor pillar but it is eccentric to the round part. I think this is either pressed in or it works like a puzzle for disassembly. I assume it comes off to change the bite indicator. I figure it's much safer to ask before boogering up some rare parts.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks, Fred, for posting that booklet contents. If I am ever lucky enough to get a reel or two out of this series, I'll consider it a glorious day.
Frank
Quote from: PacRat on September 30, 2021, 07:12:55 PM
Your not kidding when you say there's not a lot of information out there. I have a 1202 question. My bail popped ot on the side with the round black 'button' or bushing that the hook of the bail wire pivots in (maybe what DAM calls a flange?). When I look inside the hole I can see what looks like possibly a press-in insert that is loose in there.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_2_39_24_355301168.jpeg)
So my questions are:
Is my assumption correct? Is this a hard insert that was pressed into the black aluminum piece from the back side of the black button shaped piece (flange?) to prevent wear?
How would I remove the button shaped part for repair? This is also the part that holds the bite indicator in place. The schematics seem to depict the larger reel (3002) that attach this part with a screw. On the 1202 and 2002 this part is round and smooth with no visible fastener (there's a stud or bolt that can be seen on the back side of the rotor pillar but it is eccentric to the round part. I think this is either pressed in or it works like a puzzle for disassembly. I assume it comes off to change the bite indicator. I figure it's much safer to ask before boogering up some rare parts.
Thanks in advance.
The bail wire has a slight hook on that end, Mike —
You do not need to take the black metal bail anchor button off.
Just remove the other side of the bail from the angle lever Mount — insert the "hooked" end into the metal hole — then reattach the bail assembly to the trip lever.
If you need to take off the black metal bail anchor button — then there are (2) methods. Carefully punch out the tight fitting friction nub you see from the inside of the rotor — the button and the bite indicator will come loose.
Or, pry it up from the outside using a dull knife.
Sometimes these are also adhesive-glued in place.
You can glue it back, or just leave the glue off — the natural spring tension of the bail will hold it in place.
Here is what the whole affair looks like when disassembled.
Best, Fred
Perfect Fred! Thank you so much. Is the beige stuff adhesive? I have a loose part in there that I'm assuming is a press-in insert as it has a 'coin edge' around the OD. It's approximately 1/4", possibly less and the hole in the center is the right size for the bail wire. I think this is why the hook popped out...plus I can see some wear on the black part. So the insert must be what prevents the black flange from wearing out. This is your photo Fred and I annotated the piece that is loose inside.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_4_59_40_355311374.jpeg)
Now that I see how it goes together I can take it apart without damaging it. I'll press and glue the insert with JB weld, then press the flange back in place. I'll take detail photos of the flange and insert while it's apart and post them here.
Mike
-
Yes, nearly any type of adhesive will secure it, Mike —
Your doing the job the right way.
Sorry to get back to you so late today. We have had guests all day.
Best, Fred
Fred, you saved the bacon again.
Here are two photos of the flange and the loose insert. In the photos the inset isn't oriented properly but is flipped opposite of the direction it goes into the flange. I just wanted to show some detail of how they look when they're apart. I bet this doesn't happen very often.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_6_12_18_35533505.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_6_12_02_35532229.jpeg)
I tapped it back in with a brass punch and decided it is seated pretty well. If the insert gets loose again I will put a little ring of JB Weld around the edge of the insert. Here's the flange with the insert tapped back in.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_6_12_31_35534580.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_6_12_48_35535611.jpeg)
The flange was a fairly tight fit (almost snapped into place)on the rotor pillar so I'm not gluing it for now. This reel is a little tired and needs some TLC. If the flange seems loose while I'm working on it I'll glue it in with some tacky glue or something removable should I ever need to fix the insert again.
Fred, the crank arm is a little tweaked. I think I'm going to strip it and attempt to tweak it back into shape in a vise. I know metal will fatigue with repeated bending but the arm is really twisted and it makes the knob all wonky. Would you advise against this...or what do I have to lose? How scarce are these cranks?
:) Ok I`ll bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ? My bite indicator is my index finger .
I believe that you might look for years and likely never find the correct handle, Mike...
Except in our Community Inventory.
Let me know which crank you need — and I'll send it out.
If it is tweaked slightly — you might get lucky in re-aligning it — but the new one is the way to go.
N/C.
Best, Fred
Quote from: oldmanjoe on October 01, 2021, 01:59:02 PM
:) Ok I`ll bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ? My bite indicator is my index finger .
The 'Bite Indicator' is that piece of soft gold plastic sandwiched between the flange and rotor pillar. The concept is that you pinch your line in there and it holds it loosely so that you can soak bait with your bail open. The fish can run with it with just a tug but the current won't.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_4_29_14_35536435.jpeg)
Fred
Are the Champion Series reels considered salt water reels?
I'll be doing some surf fishing in the near future and would love to
use one.
Right, Steve —
These DQ Champion reels are all metal, painted with a tough finish, aluminum body, rotor, and sideplate — plus all SS or Bronze moving parts inside the reel and also outside.
Best, Fred
Quote from: PacRat on October 01, 2021, 04:35:45 PM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on October 01, 2021, 01:59:02 PM
:) Ok I`ll bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ? My bite indicator is my index finger .
The 'Bite Indicator' is that piece of soft gold plastic sandwiched between the flange and rotor pillar. The concept is that you pinch your line in there and it holds it loosely so that you can soak bait with your bail open. The fish can run with it with just a tug but the current won't.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_4_29_14_35536435.jpeg)
Can any demonstration of how to use this part? :)
Quote from: Milan S on October 04, 2021, 06:25:55 AM
Quote from: PacRat on October 01, 2021, 04:35:45 PM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on October 01, 2021, 01:59:02 PM
:) Ok I`ll bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ? My bite indicator is my index finger .
The 'Bite Indicator' is that piece of soft gold plastic sandwiched between the flange and rotor pillar. The concept is that you pinch your line in there and it holds it loosely so that you can soak bait with your bail open. The fish can run with it with just a tug but the current won't.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_4_29_14_35536435.jpeg)
Can any demonstration of how to use this part? :)
More fish are lost, when fishing bait — with a closed bail — because a wary fish feels the resistance.
To eliminate this when bait fishing — the rod tip should be closer to level — and the bail should be left open.
However, a way to hold the line and to also monitor a light bite — is needed.
For decades — the man who taught me how to really fish would do this: Elmo would keep the bail open, set the rod down in a near level position — then leave the line loose between the spool and the first eye of the rod. He would then take a small loop of the line and put a penny on it. When the line came out from under the penny — that was the first indication of a wary fish.
This bite indicator does the same thing — just slip the line between the flexible plastic flange and the rotor bail mount — to hold the line.
This also works very well in windy conditions since there is less line to catch the wind — the rod tip is closer to the water.
Best, Fred
Fred
20 to 40 Bull Reds.
Which Champion reel should I use?
Thank You
-Steve
Quote from: sandbar on October 04, 2021, 09:59:31 PM
Fred
20 to 40 Bull Reds.
Which Champion reel should I use?
Thank You
-Steve
4000, 5000, 4001, 5001
Although the 5000-5001 will do the job — I think it is a little over-kill.
4000 — 4001 would be my choice. The drag system on a 4001 is slightly better than a 4000.
Best, Fred
Thank You Fred
I do own a 4000 that I have never fished. I will
put new line on it and give it a whirl.
-Steve
The 4000/4001 are good sized reels with excellent spool capacity.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on October 04, 2021, 04:02:50 PM
Quote from: Milan S on October 04, 2021, 06:25:55 AM
Quote from: PacRat on October 01, 2021, 04:35:45 PM
Quote from: oldmanjoe on October 01, 2021, 01:59:02 PM
:) Ok I`ll bite , What is a bite indicator on the flange ? My bite indicator is my index finger .
The 'Bite Indicator' is that piece of soft gold plastic sandwiched between the flange and rotor pillar. The concept is that you pinch your line in there and it holds it loosely so that you can soak bait with your bail open. The fish can run with it with just a tug but the current won't.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_01_10_21_4_29_14_35536435.jpeg)
Can any demonstration of how to use this part? :)
More fish are lost, when fishing bait — with a closed bail — because a wary fish feels the resistance.
To eliminate this when bait fishing — the rod tip should be closer to level — and the bail should be left open.
However, a way to hold the line and to also monitor a light bite — is needed.
For decades — the man who taught me how to really fish would do this: Elmo would keep the bail open, set the rod down in a near level position — then leave the line loose between the spool and the first eye of the rod. He would then take a small loop of the line and put a penny on it. When the line came out from under the penny — that was the first indication of a wary fish.
This bite indicator does the same thing — just slip the line between the flexible plastic flange and the rotor bail mount — to hold the line.
This also works very well in windy conditions since there is less line to catch the wind — the rod tip is closer to the water.
Best, Fred
Thanks Fred!
I understand.
Which crank knob is correct for a 1202? I notice that the 1202 on Fred's peg-board has the small paddle type knob but I have a 1202 that has the larger knob. I've looked at a lot of photos online and I see both types. I'm wondering if both types came from the factory this way or are the larger knobs a user/owner modification? Fred, do you have a preference?
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_13_11_21_11_10_00_357722349.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_13_11_21_11_09_41_357712201.jpeg)
Are you surfcasting or boat fishing? If surfing, 5000 and 5001 hold a ton of 20-25lb mono and strong as boat winches.I'd fish 80 braid on these offshore and not think twice.
This is for a 1202 which will be used as a heavy freshwater/light saltwater (jetty) rig. Will likely see more salt than fresh. Six to eight pound line.
These came with either crank grip, Mike —
I am not sure how they determined which year got which grips — but both work fine — and are interchangeable — as with most parts on DAM reels.
The larger grip gives you a little more torque and control — the smaller flat Microlight grip gives you more finesse and a lighter touch on the crank.
You can try both and see which you prefer.
Sorry to get back to you so late on this. We have been on a travel trailer trip up to the Calaveras Big Trees in Tuolumne County — past Murphy's and up towards Ebbet's Pass.
Still there now — might be back tomorrow or Wednesday.
Best, Fred
Thanks Fred. I was starting to suspect this might be the case once I started mining the internet for photos. It does seem like the smaller microlite type paddle may be more common.
Enjoy the rest of your trip.
-Mike
... I hope one of you suave, smooth talking movers and shakers can help straighten me out ... I've been eavesdropping on the Best Fred Quick threads, decided I'd like to update my inventory to include at least a couple of the Champion series talked about in "00" - "01" - "02" Series of Quick Reels ... and became totally swamped in about 2.8 Google seconds
How does Quick 1, Quick 2, Quick 2 V2, Impressa 3, Dybabraid 4, Finessa 4S, Insider 7, and on and on seemingly infinitum play with the Champion series ... each iteration seems to come in a 1000 – 2000 – 3000 – etc size.
It may actually be worse than the smorgasbord Penn has put out. How do you even begin to search for a (eg) Champion Series 3001 ?
many thanks for your patience,
Nunc
if the sun is in space, then why is there light on earth, but not in space ?
It's actually not that complicated. Just type Dam, or Dam Quick, 3001 into you search bar, be it eBay, Google, Bing, etc. and they'll come. Do the same thing with all the other sizes, i.e. 1,2,4 & 5. You can do the same thing with the 0 & 02 variants, too.
You don't need to include "Champion". If you include it you'll confuse the search engine & miss 80% of the information because most don't know it's the Champion Series.
well, that's sort of what brought on the question ... unless ebay's just messin' w/ me again, a 'DAM Quick 3 spinning reel' search brings up a coupla three pages of piece parts, then :
Vintage D.A.M. Quick Spinning Reel Model SC3
DAM Quick Impressa 3
DAM Quick 550
SLS3 D.A.M. QUICK MADE IN JAPAN
DAM Fishing Reel Quick 1 4000
DAM QUICK FINESSA
that's why my question: what's an Impressa, an SLS3 a Quick 1, a Finessa ... et cetera and et alia
but thank you just the same
Nunc
Tommy is exactly right —- just do as he has layed out.
However, since there are some graphite or plastic reels using partially the same numbers —- you need to have a little knowledge of what you are looking for/at —- when pulling up listings and information.
If you tell us what you are looking for —- we could help in different ways.
The worthwhile reels that you specified would be:
1000, 1400, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000
1001, 1401, 2001, 3001, 4001, 5001
1202, 2002, 3002, plus a low gear version of the 5001
These are (16) reels of excellent quality with metal parts, worm-drives, skirted spool, tough drags, and many other features.
Most are readily available on e-Bay, and other internet resources —- prices are not high.
If you get dizzy, or strike out on what you might be interested in —- I have plenty available. Plus new parts for whatever you may find or need on the internet.
Some of the eBay sellers are ridiculous on pricing —- because they either don't know —- or are very greedy. Other times, you can get fair pricing or bargains.
Let us know what you have in mind by being a little more specific. Thanks!
Welcome aboard!
Best, Fred
I think my biggest problem is not knowing how to ask the question ...
I just did a search for: DAM Quick 3000 spinning reel on ebay. My search results ... specifically (omitting the boilerplate like "Vintage DAM Quick") ...
Camaro LS35 Coarse / Match
Quick 1 3000
Quick Impressa 3
(several more Quick 1s)
Impressa 4S
Quick 2 VS
Dynabraid 4
Impulse 4
Insider 7
Finessa 8
Quick 4
and about a third of the way down the page, a "78s' vintage DAM Quick 3000 skirted-spool spinning reel used / excellent++ , $140.90 delivered
Is this the neighborhood I should be in ?
Much Obliged for your patience
nunc
the problem with a search like that, is the 3000 is a generic sizing number for a lot of modern reels. The Quick 1, Impressa etc are all modern reels and made in Korea probably. The Finessa was a DQ model that preceded the series which Fred is discussing. The Finessa are still fine reels but on the vintage side, not quite as good as these.
A search for Dam Quick 3001 or 3002 etc will be specific to the older reels that Fred listed.
Finding the actual vintage DQ 3000s is probably best done by starting the search in vintage reels,
eBay > Sporting Goods > Fishing > Vintage > Reels
Looks like there's on in Malaysia and one in South Africa right now, prices on both are fair with shipping getting pricey.
Honestly I'd just ask Fred for the reel you want.. it will be in excellent condition and fairly priced.
Hunting for bargains on ebay will take a lot longer and there's always the chance someone will sell you a dog with some irreparable problems.
I don't really see that much of an an issue. Every eBay search I do also brings up some garbage I have to sort through to find what I'm looking for. It's just part of their game.
Re searching for Dam Quicks, I found slightly by accident when buying something else from Germany that lots of Germans on the giant auction site don't like posting outside Germany. Sellers in the UK are the same. If you make a shipping address in Germany just to pretend you're there at times many more will pop up, sometimes much much cheaper than from Malaysia or wherever else. Still only a fraction of what's on offer in the US but you may find models which are relatively rare. The trick will then be pinning down a German to ship to😬
Wish I had every reel in between these two...
2 or 3 hundred US$ will take care of that. ;D
All 01 and 00 series can manual close the bail but 1000 and 1001 you have to turn the crank to close it .I let my friend use my 1001 and he try to close the bail by hand cause it broke .It took me several years to find part to repair it
Opinions: skirted spool or old-school rotors on DAM Quicks?
Quote from: Gfish on April 19, 2024, 01:30:37 AMOpinions: skirted spool or old-school rotors on DAM Quicks?
Series 1000-5000 and 1001-5001 all skirted spoon but 1000 and 1001 can not close bail manual
Quote from: quang tran on April 18, 2024, 05:48:19 PMAll 01 and 00 series can manual close the bail but 1000 and 1001 you have to turn the crank to close it .I let my friend use my 1001 and he try to close the bail by hand cause it broke .It took me several years to find part to repair it
There is a "V" shaped "Nail Nick" on the stop lever.
Just use you finger nail —- and the bail closes very easily on the DQ 1000/1001 —- without cranking the reel.
That is why the "V Nick" is there —- instead of being just a straight piece of metal.
This is one of the features that is useful to use when stealth fishing.
Best, Fred
Fred,
Thanks - I did not know that about the bails for the DQ 1000/1001.
Just acquired a Quick 1202 and 2002 in the last six weeks. Next is the 1000 and 1001.
Have a great weekend!
Tad
Couple more things of possible interest to some —-
In addition to the "nail Nick" allowing manual closing of the SS bail wire assembly —- this feature also allows the bail to be folded flat against the opposite crank side for transport or storage.
This will do two things —-
Help to reduce a common cause of spinning reel issues —- a bent bail wire.
Plus, this feature also takes all of the tension off the bail spring —- thus increasing its effectiveness, crispness, and life —- indefinitely.
And, the coil bail spring on a 1000/1001 —- is the exact same bail spring as on a Microlite 110 or 265.
You are doing some great work, Quang!
Best, Fred