Reel Repair by Alan Tani

 The boat has 6'6" MH trevala rods with accurate boss reels....and there's no rental fee for using the boat gear. Anyone bringing their own rod and reel should have a good reel cover, cause the only storage is at the bait tank, and things get plenty of sea spray during 6-8 hour run out and run back in

That article is about wire rope.  Laid wire rope is very different than loosely woven PE braid that is going to always lay flat as you wind it.  Braid doesn't even have a real measurable diameter. Wire rope loses some usefulness and probably strength if it gets deformed from being flattened.  Braid don't care unless you pretty much crush it.

Both  are relatively low-stretch products, so the difficulty in maintaining tension in the bottom coils could be something in common, but I would hesitate in drawing  too many conclusions from such vastly different materials.

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An idea hit me on how to make progress:  You folk keep trying to solve this problem the hard way.  Instead of trying to solve it for you in various ways, allow me to lay out the problem in a more solvable format for anyone interested to take a whack at.  I will probably learn some more stuff myself in the process :

Instead of looking at spool slipping from the inside out (starting  at the arbor knot - this is the hard way), how about looking from the outside in?  This way, you will be following  the load from the source to the slip, just the way that it is actually happening in real life.

I think that these are the key questions: 

How and where does the force that leads to slippage transfer from linear to radial? How much and how far can some of this linear directed energy pass into and  through the line? Will any of this energy travel all way to the arbor?  If the spool fill is rotating, what type of force causes this rotation?  What forces resist this rotation?  Does surface contact area matter for this resistance?  Are there multiple frictional surfaces of the line on the spool, and do the number of frictional surfaces matter for this resistance?  What is the effect of compressive forces on the fill, and is the effect different at different fill depths?  What is different about nylon monofilament that makes spool slippage a non-problem?

Some of the above has been discussed in this thread, some of it is discussed in intro-to-physics explanations of sliding friction, and some of is from our observations of spool fills that slip.  But we have pretty much all of this information at hand, and I think that this  makes the answer to the question in the title of the thread reasonably apparent. 

The answer is at your doorstep.  You just have to make sure that you are looking out the front door.   

-J

I had a similar issue and solved it by removing the handle, the wavy washer and the knurled-knob.

I then reassembled starting with the addition of a small lightweight spring under the knob, followed by the knob, wavy washer and handle.

There just wasn't enough tension on the wavy washer to hold the knob in place and I had a spring on-hand. 

Joe is right —-

A 330N needs a nylon washer or a metal wavy  washer between the knurled nut & the crank arm.  Unless the threads are worn on either the knurled nut (chrome over brass) —- or the steel crank axle —- but first make sure a locker washer is in place.

I have these, if you need one, N/C.  Glad to drop one in the mail.  Or anything else needed.

The bail is easy enough to slightly bend so it won't touch the crank.  It isn't shown in your photos —- but first, check to make sure the angle lever (bail mount) is not bent before bending the bail. 

And, it is also possible that if the locker crank washer is missing —- it could contribute to crank/bail rubbing.

You likely mean't that you were fishing a 285 —- not a 385.

Bails, cranks, and angle arms are the first things to get bent on spinners.

Best, Fred

I plan on using a Cortez Conversions 99 on a Shimano Trevala 6'6" Heavy jigging rod. I'll probably bring the Cortez/Tiburon T4NI on a Trevala XH jigging rod
The boat does have gear, but I can't remember what it is.
Ted or Ron, do you know what the boat rented equipment is?

    There should be a wavey washer in between the handle and nut ,to act as a lock washer .    I do put a nylon washer in there also for a better hold ..  the bail should have plenty of clearance .    A picture will help to see if the handle is that loose or in fact your bail is bent .

Glad to be of assistance
Regards Gary

      I didn`t want to jump the gun .  Just trying to show there more than meets the eye .

Only last month I stumbled onto this site while researching 704 updates...

All of a sudden I have a bench full of DAM Quicks-- Finessa, some N series, and a couple Champion series awaiting service, and a few more specimens on the way from auction land. As one could say, that was pretty DAM Quick!

Very satisfying pieces of machinery to work on and to use. I had a 330, I think it was, years ago in Texas. Learning a lot from the knowledge shared on this forum.

Pic is on the Delaware River waterfront a few blocks from my house. Urban angling to be sure. Coast Guard ship and Philly Fire Department pumper in the background. That was the site of the first Navy ship yard in The USA c.1800 and the site of a commercial ship yard before that.

I was somewhat overgunned for the dink smallies I caught with that 440N and 8.5' steelhead rod, but I was mainly looking to try out the freshly cleaned up reel. The combo felt nicely balanced otherwise.

My question to the DQ aficionados is about the knurled sleeve that screws up to hold the handle in place. This one keeps unscrewing itself. Any hints on how to cure that? I'm thinking some beeswax on the threads maybe.

Last trip I played with a 385 that generally seemed more solid and no loose handle issues. I do like the N series package though and I'm hoping to figure out how to get these the way I want them.

The other oddity I noticed is that every x cranks of the handle, the bail would slightly tap the handle when the handle and bail came around to that certain alignment. I figure I might have to slightly bend the bail wire to eliminate that issue.

I have a pile of modern reels--Stradic, Spheros, BG, etc--and an arsenal of trusty hometown favorite Penn spinners, but I love fishing vintage reels and I'm really appreciating DAM Quicks these days. I guess I'm ever more vintage myself. 

What gear will everyone be using? Rod and reels?