I'm just wondering why most rods I see (other than jigging and bass bait casting) seem to secure the reel with the threads going up from the butt end side of the rod. This really makes no sense to me. They provide a nice comfy handle and then expose plastic and threads when screwing to secure the reel. Why wouldn't I want my hand resting on that comfy handle all day instead of on some hard plastic? If they thread from the top, yeah the threads are exposed there, but when you grab above the reel you are usually a good ways away from the reel and the threads wouldn't be in the way.
Just a newbie wondering..
Whenever i build a rod I build it to downlock....not out of comfort per se, but a reel pounding / vibrating all day will just seat itself deeper in the hood rather than back the hood off the threads and cause issues.
I have never seen anybody hold their rod under the reel when fishing. Everyone I know holds their rod above the reel with one hand and the other hand on the reels handle.
I hold my rod above the reel, on top of the reel and below the reel.
It has to do with what I'm fishing for and what I'm using.
Quote from: Alto Mare on July 26, 2018, 09:12:09 PM
I hold my rod above the reel, on top of the reel and below the reel.
It has to do with what I'm fishing for and what I'm using.
Ditto.
Quote from: Alto Mare on July 26, 2018, 09:12:09 PM
I hold my rod above the reel, on top of the reel and below the reel.
It has to do with what I'm fishing for and what I'm using.
Right, but when you are above the ree,l are you right up against the reel? When I'm below the reel I'm right up on the reel, because I'm usually thumbing the reel while casting or letting line out. When I'm above the reel I'm up on the rod handle away from the reel seat.
Let me complicate this a little bit further.
I fit my reel seat 16 cm from the rear of the rod, with the thread facing upward towards the tip. This makes the rig much more balanced because the weight of the reel at the back moves the point of balance rearward. There is no way my hand gets any contact with the reel seet on the rear. When winding my lure I keep the rod tip down towards the water and then my front hand does touch the reel seat, but it does not bother.
Remember I am an Artlure angler and cast and retrieve all the time.
Depends on the outfit and the person. Up-lock is better for a boat rod. You may like a down-lock better for a spinner, conventional surf rig or palming reel.
I stopped using reel seats all together for light baitcasting and just lash the reel to the rod. It is more versatile and MUCH more comfortable. If you need to frequently remove the reel from the rod it is more trouble though because you have to re-lash every time. I set my bench up so that the reel can be dissembled for service without removing it from the rod. Most of the time the line is still running through the guides, leader still tied to line (dang FG knots), jig still tied to leader and reel spread out on the bench.
-steve
Quote from: thorhammer on July 26, 2018, 07:24:30 PM
Whenever i build a rod I build it to downlock....not out of comfort per se, but a reel pounding / vibrating all day will just seat itself deeper in the hood rather than back the hood off the threads and cause issues.
I figured there was a reason for one way or another. Then why is almost every rod built to thread from the handle up?
Quote from: oc1 on July 27, 2018, 10:30:41 AM
Depends on the outfit and the person. Up-lock is better for a boat rod. You may like a down-lock better for a spinner, conventional surf rig or palming reel.
I stopped using reel seats all together for light baitcasting and just lash the reel to the rod. It is more versatile and MUCH more comfortable. If you need to frequently remove the reel from the rod it is more trouble though because you have to re-lash every time. I set my bench up so that the reel can be dissembled for service without removing it from the rod. Most of the time the line is still running through the guides, leader still tied to line (dang FG knots), jig still tied to leader and reel spread out on the bench.
-steve
Can you explain why Up-lock is better for a boat rod?
Quote from: JAW1973 on July 27, 2018, 09:07:24 PM
Can you explain why Up-lock is better for a boat rod?
You've got one or two hands on the fore grip and one hand on the reel knob. No casting and not much thumbing the spool so there is no need to grab it below the reel. With a large reel it's so tip-heavy that you can't really hold it by the rod handle anyway.
-steve
Most of the force on a reel under load is pulling it toward the tip of the rod. The fixed end the reel seat is stronger and less wobbly.
The greater the load, the more important this is.
Having the threaded end of the reel seat on the butt side can be a comfort/ ergonomic issue when casting, depending on the reel/reel seat.
So for a boat rod: high loads+ no casting = uplock.
A freshwater casting rod can be downlock.
For either uplock or downlock, it is often possible to shorten the threaded portion of the reel seat, if you know what reels are going to be used. I just put together a rod with a Fuji palming style trigger reel seat for an Okuma Komodo, and took over an inch off the threaded end with plenty of room to spare.
-J
If we all just got rid of the silly things and rigged our rods deck-hand style none of this would be a concern.
Ron
Quote from: Ron Jones on July 28, 2018, 05:40:17 PM
If we all just got rid of the silly things and rigged our rods deck-hand style none of this would be a concern.
Ron
Not all but I have a few. ;) I don't think DH style would work too good for larger game rods and reels though.
I personally prefer all my rods to be down locking. It seems to put the reel in a more comfortable place. Personal preference, I guess.
On the topic of reel seats, is there a "standard" minimum measurement between the hoods? Reason I ask is that I just got a Shimano Terramar, 8'6", 50-65# rated, and I can't get my Penn 8500 SS in there. The opening maxes at 2-11/16" and that's not quite enough. Even my 6# rod opens up more than that so I have to wonder if this is some kind of assembly goof or worse, a design flaw. The rear grip comes right up to the seat and there may be more than enough thread there to have it work if I just trim the grip but I hesitate to do that then find out I have a rod designed that way that I just ruined from the perspective of returning it. You guys have any thoughts? TIA
k
Reel seats get longer as the diameter gets bigger. Must be a thin blank. I would consider taking it back if you can. They're might be threads under the grip that that would be unusual. Likely the rod was built for a shimano reel
Thanks for the input. The blank measures 3/4" in diameter just in front of the front grip so does not appear very thin to me although I have no expertise in this. That's why I was curious about a "common" minimal seat opening. I just called the vendor and they told me that Shimano rods often won't manage Penn reels, which apparently have larger feet. They're checking some of their inventory to see if my opening is unusually short. Not really something I wanted to "discover." Live and learn.
k