I've been wondering what the underhead reels made by accurate (mutant) and jiggingmaster (underhead?) are like. Since both these are pretty expensive, I thought I would have a go at turning a 501 into an underhead to try the concept. I've learnt from watching Chris (Rothmar2) and others here that making templates and jigs can save time in the long run so that's where I've started.
First was to make a template of the jigmaster screw holes, including two new holes to attach the 'top' stand, for drilling the screw holes in 3mm SS spacer rings.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_56_20_24910757.jpeg)
I'm using the 3mm spacer rigs so I don't need to drill new holes in the side plates where the top stand attaches. The template was made from 10 mm (~3/8") mild steel so it will double as half of a jig to drill the screw holes for the frame pieces. The plan is to use screws as stoppers to rest the frame pieces against at a consistent distance from the screw holes - to do this I made a small template that is held in place by the center hole and the screw holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_56_38_249111558.jpeg)
Same template with a wider gap from the screw hole was used for the end stop of the stand piece, the holes for the end stops for small frame bar were drilled the same distance as the side stops (with a new drill bit ;D).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_57_14_249122101.jpeg)
To make the jig, I screwed the 10mm template to another piece of 10mm plate and transferred the hole locations by drilling through the first. This included four 9.5mm holes for guides and four 1/4 inch holes for screws to clamp the pieces together, clearance hole on top and threaded on the bottom plate. I used a couple of mild steel pieces for a test run
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_57_55_249131517.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_58_11_249141617.jpeg)
Jig screwed together with test pieces in place (one of the clamping screws head was too close to the stop screw and will need to be moved)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_58_44_24916903.jpeg)
Drilling the screw holes
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_58_29_249151043.jpeg)
It seems to have worked, but I wont really know until I make the actual parts and screw it all together with a spool.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_5_00_41_2491833.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_03_08_18_4_59_18_249172094.jpeg)
That's all for now, I'll follow up after the weekend.
Mike
Wow! This is going to be good. Way outside of the box. Thanks
Wow Mike, can't wait to see the next steps. Great jig work!
I'm so out of the loop...I had to google underhead...HA! Interesting! 8)
Mike, I want to come and hang with you, too bad you so far asway ::). Can't wait to see what you'll come up with.
Sal
I didn't know what an "underhead" reel was, either.
Example of the Jiggingmaster https://www.evike.com/products/59542/ (https://www.evike.com/products/59542/)
Very neat!
Very cook Mike. Big project.
I think it might keep you busy for a while!
......................Lou
Glad to see something come up for everyone to see. This will be an epic thread.
Quote from: mo65 on August 03, 2018, 03:05:42 PM
I'm so out of the loop...I had to google underhead...HA! Interesting! 8)
Hi Mo
Us Aussies call conventional reels overheads. I guess knowing this helps to understand what an underhead is., although I have never heard an Alvey or trout reel called an underhead.
Greg
Thanks for the interest guys, I hope it works as planned - the jiggingmasters look like great reels, Keith (handi2) seems to like his, but it was the 'simpler' design of the accurate mutant that gave me the idea that this concept might be possible with other reels.
I've made more progress with the frame parts and cutting the spacer rings. There are two curved spacer bars and one flat bar that forms part of the new stand - the curved pieces were cut from a piece of 40 mm x 6 mm 316 SS plate that was bent around a 60 mm rod for frame parts when I made the 2/0 "bait special" last year. First step was to cut a section long enough, clean it up and square one end on the belt sander;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_30_58_249191531.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_31_30_249191746.jpeg)
Then cut two curved pieces from it and a piece of flat 6 mm to size
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_32_37_249231385.jpeg)
Sand the three pieces to 36 mm width on the belt sander,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_32_15_249221665.jpeg)
Next was put the pieces in the new jig for drilling,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_33_12_24924136.jpeg)
I used a rubber band to hold the pieces against the stops while I tightened the clamping bolts,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_33_24_24925689.jpeg)
Drilled and tapped the 5-40 screw holes and tried a quick test fit,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_34_21_24926222.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_34_54_249262141.jpeg)
So far so good! :) Next step was to make the 'leg' section of the stand, I'm using 12 mm x 40 mm x 48 mm long 316 SS,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_35_21_24928894.jpeg)
The frame components marked for drilling holes to help shape them,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_36_30_249291845.jpeg)
With the holes drilled,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_37_44_249311060.jpeg)
I used a cut off wheel in an angle grinder and a thin cut off wheel in a dremel to cut between the holes,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_37_44_249311196.jpeg)
Instead of chain drilling the inner space of the spacer rings like I've done on previous projects, I asked a friend to have a go using a plasma cutter. It was quicker but will need the same amount of filing to finish it off, if we had time to make a guide we could have cut closer to the line,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_38_47_249341408.jpeg)
The frame parts shaped as much as I can using belt sanders and bench grinders, the rest will be with files and the dremel,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/24/7995_05_08_18_3_38_17_24933121.jpeg)
That's where I'm at with this - the filing will take a little time.
Thanks
Mike
Getting in shape for summer Mike?! ;D
That's a lot of filing ahead, but I'm sure it will be worth it when done. Keep the pics coming.
Mike,
I'm loving this thread! I can't wait to see your final goal... it will certainly be a one-off.
Out of curiosity, how much more will it weigh than the stock 501 and the aftermarket frame, spool, and side plates made 501's?
You have me wanting more. Let's go with that filing, pal! LOL
Thanks for sharing your creativity,
Dom
Very cool Mike, I love that Jig you made as well. What type of bits are you using for drilling? I"m drilling a 1/4" bolt , top and bottom to use for handle shaft and noticed that high speed steel bits are doing a better job than Cobalt bits. I do drill ss in the lowest possible speed.
Also, plain water is working better than oil, my best result is to soak the part every 1/8" of drilling and its doing a good job, but keep in mind I'm no expert on this stuff, stone,brick and wood I could make anything, but working steel is another story. I'm just experimenting with what works best for me.
Keep it coming Mike.
Sal
Yep, keep it coming. Dominick
Quote from: Rothmar2 on August 05, 2018, 12:31:20 PM
Getting in shape for summer Mike?! ;D
That's a lot of filing ahead, but I'm sure it will be worth it when done. Keep the pics coming.
HaHa - incidental exercise will be one good outcome from this project.
Quote from: broadway on August 05, 2018, 01:10:08 PM
Out of curiosity, how much more will it weigh than the stock 501 and the aftermarket frame, spool, and side plates made 501's?
Thanks Dom, It will be a fair bit heavier than a stock 501 or a full aluminium 501 - I don't know how much yet, I've got more weight reducing grinding and filing to do but I'll weigh it when I'm finished just to see.
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 05, 2018, 02:09:24 PM
Very cool Mike, I love that Jig you made as well. What type of bits are you using for drilling? I"m drilling a 1/4" bolt , top and bottom to use for handle shaft and noticed that high speed steel bits are doing a better job than Cobalt bits. I do drill ss in the lowest possible speed.
Also, plain water is working better than oil, my best result is to soak the part every 1/8" of drilling and its doing a good job, but keep in mind I'm no expert on this stuff, stone,brick and wood I could make anything, but working steel is another story. I'm just experimenting with what works best for me.
Keep it coming Mike.
Sal
Thanks Sal, I've been using cobalt bits most of the time for SS with the drill press set at the lowest speed it has - 510 RPM. I use a cutting fluid 'tap magic' for drilling and thread cutting - I don't flood the work, just a few drops to start the hole and a few more after each 1/8" or so (more on the holes over about a 1/4") I also stop drilling while I add more fluid which helps to stop the bit from overheating. I do use high speed bits when I don't have a cobalt one in the size I need but the cobalt seems to cut better for me. I'm no expert either, most of what I know has been picked up from Chris and other experts on here - when I first started messing around with these projects I burnt a lot of bits and broke a lot of taps on stainless.
Thanks Dominic, I'll get on with it! ;D
Thanks Mike... got to ask guys that know how its done :).
Yes I've broken many as well, most from following the recommended chart for stainless steel.
I've been using Dormer taps, when they were snapping as well, I knew I was doing something wrong.
I contacted Adam and he mentioned not to follow the chart, he mentioned they're usually wrong, so I purchased a few sizes and found the perfect match by trial and error.
These are working the best for me : Black and Gold High Speed Steel Jobber Drill Bits for Metal, I did 10 holes with one and still cutting...we'll see.
Thank you Mike, your input is very much appreciated.
Sal
For tap drill sizes, I use the 'theoretical machinist' tap drill size calculator that Adam posted a link to in his excellent post on drilling and tapping holes http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17892.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17892.0). Following Adam's advice for threaded holes in stainless, I aim for around 55 - 65% thread engagement, depending on what size bits are available. The calculator allows you to enter the thread size, imperial or metric and what % engagement you want.
It's a good resource for anyone doing this work - not to mention the great advice Adam gives in his thread about taps and bits and how to use them.
Mike
x2 on that Mike. Adam's post helped me alot - I've just about stopped breaking taps. I am slowly replacing my taps with HSSE (5-7% Cobalt) types (my drills too) - the cobalt really makes a difference for the modest extra cost ;)
I've forgotten all about that thread, thanks for the reminder.
Adam knows his stuff!
Sal
seems like a awesome project, Im keeping an eye on this one
Great work Mike - looking forward to the next installment!
All the best, Justin
Thanks Mike, for taking us along with you, great thread, lots of good info coming through, over & above what your making, that mind of yours never stops, I would hate to be sleeping next to you, you would be throwing your arms around all night, thanks cheers Don.
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 06, 2018, 01:17:11 PM
I've forgotten all about that thread, thanks for the reminder.
Adam knows his stuff!
Sal
I did too. I bookmarked it so I can refer to it. Dominick
Another useful tip for keeping the tap vertical while hand tapping holes is to use a small block with a clearance hole drilled for the tap as a guide - Ed (eguinn) mentions it in Adam's thread on tapping and I've seen others mention it on this site. I've made one out of a scrap of 12 mm stainless with holes for 5-40, 6-40 and now 8-32 taps. These photos show using an 8-32 tap through a 4.3 mm hole.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_43_29_25114290.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_44_18_251162320.jpeg)
Mike
There is still a fair bit of filing and grinding to do but I thought I would update as I go. Using an old set of jigmaster rings as a guide screwed to the spacer rings, I filed the inside of spacer rings with a coarse half round file and sanded them with a 1/2 inch drum on the dremel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_43_03_251131156.jpeg)
I used a bench grinder and belt sander for the out side of the rings.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_42_42_25112852.jpeg)
I've started cleaning up and shaping the frame components, grinding the backs of the spacer bars to reduce weight and shaping the leg.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_43_58_2511541.jpeg)
I tried a quick test fit to see how things were sitting and give people an idea of how it will look,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_45_19_25119293.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_46_00_251202445.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_44_51_251172357.jpeg)
Now it's back to the files,
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_45_17_251181017.jpeg)
Mike
This is crazy, Mike...what a masterpiece you're building!
Sal
Mike,
This is getting good, real good!
One question... what are the holes for in the reel seat? Is it for a clamp? Will you be making one of those too?
Awesome project bro,
Dom
Amazing! I am in awe that you are able to fabricate these parts with only basic tools. I have never fabricated any metal parts, but your posts are making me want to experiment with drilling, cutting and tapping.
How will you lay the line on the reel? The only underhead reels I have seen have a level wind mechanism.
Regards,
Smols
Alveys and trout reels don't have level winds.
Thanks again guys,
Dom - the two holes in the top of the leg are to screw a reel seat / foot onto. The leg is a bit narrow at 12 mm (~1/2") wide and most reel feet I've seen are around 16 - 20 mm, even round ABU feet are about 14.5 mm. I wasn't looking forward to filing the long groove on the underside of a reel foot so I asked Tom if he had any of the feet he uses on his frames. Not sure how to attach a rod clamp yet - I'll need to give it more thought.
Smols, the Jiggingmaster reels have a level-wind but the accurate mutants I've seen photos of don't have it but they do have very narrow spools. I thought of using the spool from the narrow 501 kits Randy P had made by Tiburon but unfortunately Tib didn't make any extra spools and only sold them as kits. I settled on a standard width 501 spool and was hoping to be able to guide the line with a finger under the rod but I think I might have made the leg a tad long for that. I'll see how this goes when I've finished it - maybe I'll need to put less line on to allow for poor line lay. Basto has a point about the Alvey reels, I used them many years ago and didn't have too many issues with line lay, it seemed to move from side to side a bit by slightly tilting the rod from side to side while retrieving - not sure if being under the rod helped with that or it was the bigger guides on the old side cast rods. ???
Mike
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_13_08_18_1_02_18_251211780.jpeg)
Mike,
I thought you were gonna shape the leg to be the reel seat, but I see your narrowness issue.
I also now realize I asked a silly question as the holes that are for the reel foot are going the wrong way for a rod clamp, duh, Dom!
If you made a new "leg" (I'm sure its a ton of work) wouldn't that help in bringing it closer to your finger for guiding the line, and may look pretty sleek, too.
Whatever you chose I know this is gonna be an epic creation.
I'm hooked,
Dom
A quick update on this project - the hand filing was always going to be slow but I've made some progress (Lou spotted it early on when he said "I think it might keep you busy for a while!"). I've shaped the spacer rings enough to able to try a test fit with a spool and side plates.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_18_08_18_3_41_44_251371773.jpeg)
I borrowed the foot off of my Cortez squidder to test mount it on a rod.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_18_08_18_3_42_39_251401301.jpeg)
The black foot looks a bit out of place on the stainless 'stand' but I think it looks OK when mounted on a black real seat.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_18_08_18_3_42_03_251382029.jpeg)
It looks like the leg will be short enough to be able to lay the line with a finger under the fore grip.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_18_08_18_3_42_23_251392470.jpeg)
So far so good - it feels a little awkward as you would expect but I'm thinking it will work.
Now it's back to the files to finish shaping the frame parts.
Mike
Always exciting watching your progress... beautiful craftsmanship!
Sal
This is great Mike!
Looks awesome and I'm sure it will work as good as any of the multi-hundred dollar ones 8)
Making some good headway on a one of a kind project... looking good bro!
Keep it up,
Dom
I like it. Great work. Keep going. Dominick
You're amazing Mike!
-steve
Looking the biz now. Getting all the upgrades put in down the track?
Thanks for the interest and encouragement guys, I did some more filing today and will post a couple of photos at the end of this post.
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 18, 2018, 01:47:19 PM
Always exciting watching your progress... beautiful craftsmanship!
Sal
Thanks Sal but I'm not sure about the craftsmanship bit - there's more freehand work to do on this and things will start getting a bit untidy. :-[ ;D
Chad - Thanks, I'll be happy if it works as well as a normal 501 - the Accurates and Jigging Masters are a few classes above this experiment.
I don't know about amazing Steve, I'm just a hack messing around with other peoples designs. Your work on custom centrifugal brakes and clutch systems a while back was amazing, I'm still scratching my head over that!
Quote from: Rothmar2 on August 19, 2018, 02:41:46 AM
Looking the biz now. Getting all the upgrades put in down the track?
Chris, I'm thinking I'll use a set of black Penn plates with the 4 dog bridge I made and a set of your stainless rings. I'll see how it goes and maybe put in a set of 4.8:1 gears, if it's really good I'll give it a white handle! ;D
As I said earlier, I've made some progress shaping the frame parts - filing and grinding material to help reduce weight.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_18_08_18_11_30_30_251821270.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_18_08_18_11_30_41_25183980.jpeg)
There's a fair bit more to do to finish the frame and tidy it up but I'll be out of town this week - maybe more progress next weekend.
Mike
Mike, for the complexity of this project, you've made some outstanding progress!
Finish work is so time consuming and can be pretty tough on the hands. The final filing and polishing can take a significant amount of time to bring the project to the next level.
I applaud your effort and very much looking forward to the final product. Without a doubt, ... excellent work!
....................Lou
Great looking project. I'm wondering how to control the spool an a cast?
Steve
Steve, I think those contraptions are only used for deep dropping off a boat. Someone here showed a Japanese factory built model.
-steve
Thanks guys, I think I need to go to 'finishing school' to get a finish half as good as the spectacular finishes Lou achieves on his work. Steve, I think Steve oc1 is right about underheads usually being used for deep drop fishing from boats, although there is a youtube video of a guy casting with an Accurate mutant GT. He is relying on the reel's cast control by the look of it;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rxBtj7jtlI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rxBtj7jtlI)
I've been chipping away at this and have finished shaping the frame components and semi polished them;
Front;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_2_04_47_2528060.jpeg)
Back;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_2_05_13_2528154.jpeg)
Front view of the assembled frame minus the foot;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_2_05_48_252821771.jpeg)
Back view;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_2_06_03_252832215.jpeg)
from above;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_2_06_38_252852241.jpeg)
I've sanded down the heads of some stainless screws to fit Penn side plates;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_2_06_21_252842378.jpeg)
and cut a 75 mm long piece of 18 x 6 mm stainless for a foot;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_2_07_42_252861615.jpeg)
When I've finished the foot the reel should be ready to put together and test.
Mike
Hi Mike, its coming up good, thanks for showing us, you have spent a lot of hours in with the polishing, well done cheers Don.
Thanks Don, it always takes me longer than I think starting out.
I finished a stainless foot for the stand today. I started by squaring up the piece of 18 x 6 mm I had cut earlier;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_06_28_252872320.jpeg)
To start the underside groove in the foot, I drilled a series of shallow 4.3 mm pilot holes along the center line at 8 mm centers. Two of the holes are through holes for the mounting screws.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_06_40_252881161.jpeg)
I then expanded the holes with a 10.5 mm bit;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_07_22_252891618.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_07_58_25291470.jpeg)
Filed the material between the overlapping holes;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_07_48_252901831.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_08_22_2529319.jpeg)
Marked and ground a taper at each end;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_08_12_252922470.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_09_31_252941243.jpeg)
Shaped the taper with files;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_10_03_252952339.jpeg)
The under side cleaned up a bit with a 1/2" sanding drum;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_10_21_252961519.jpeg)
and the top side;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_10_10_44_25297264.jpeg)
Next up is screwing it all together.
Mike
Last update (for a while)
The stand assembled;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_26_04_25298875.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_26_37_252992229.jpeg)
I checked the stand for fit in a couple of reel seats, a smallish fuji seat on a Tcurve deep jig rod;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_26_51_25300958.jpeg)
and an unmarked seat on an old Penn powerstick;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_27_42_25303322.jpeg)
And then screw on a set of Penn side plates with stainless rings, clicker button and locking screw made by Chis (Rothmar2), and Adam's (threesevens) counterbalanced handle and star. Pro Challenger internals and spool.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_27_14_253012131.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_27_32_253021867.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_28_03_253042133.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_01_09_18_11_28_18_25305216.jpeg)
I'll weigh it before I spool it and compare it to a stock 501, but it is pretty heavy.
Mike
Beautiful Mike. Really stylish too.
-steve
Mike that is fantastic, as good or better than a brought reel, you lost me a bit, not being involved with the metal industry, this could be a stupid question, but what is a 1/2" sanding drum, cheers Don.
Amazing, Impressive!!! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks guys, there is a heap of 'mistakes' if you look closely but overall I'm pretty happy with it so far - the next test will be using it. Don, no such thing as a dumb question, the 1/2" sanding drum I mentioned is the small 1/2" dia sanding attachment for rotary tools like a dremel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_12_08_18_12_43_03_251131156.jpeg)
Mike
Amazing!
Sal
I'm speechless... you got some serious skill, Mike!
Would the cortez plates fit on that baby? ...It sure would be sweet with a set of silver plates.
The stand itself is like a sculpture of fine art.
Great job!
Dom
Dude! That looks like some serious "old world" style craftmanship with all of the hand-work you've put into it.
Really freaking cool build!! 8)
Super nice job Mike. Man, you put some love into that baby!!!!
.................Lou
Wow, that's a solid rig Mike, and looks fantastic. Congrats on a fine job!
Greg
I have to say that is fine work. Dominick
Thanks again for the kind words everyone, I've said before the work done by many members here over the years is my source of inspiration to try these experiments - particularly Sal for pioneering modifying reels and opening our eyes to what can be done.
Quote from: broadway on September 02, 2018, 04:03:16 PM
Would the cortez plates fit on that baby? ...It sure would be sweet with a set of silver plates.
Any jigmaster plates should fit without modification Dom, I haven't tried them yet but agree silver cortez plates would look great. I made the spacer rings with the countersunk screw attachment to the frame so that any side plates could be used without modifying them - if I was prepared to drill additional holes in a set of aftermarket plates, I could do away with the extra rings and just make the frame standard width.
Quote from: broadway on August 05, 2018, 01:10:08 PM
Out of curiosity, how much more will it weigh than the stock 501 and the aftermarket frame, spool, and side plates made 501's?
I weighed the underhead and a stock 501 with a penn stainless spool today, both without line. The stock reel came in at 540.1 gms (19.05 oz) and the underhead at 767.3 gms (27.06 oz) - a difference of 227.2 gms (8.01 oz). To be honest I thought it might have been a little heavier than that, but it is still a significant weight increase. I don't have a full after market aluminium frame, side plate and spool 501 to weigh for comparison.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_05_09_18_3_04_14_25320684.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/25/7995_05_09_18_3_04_10_253151202.jpeg)
I think the best way to reduce the weight would be to make it out of aluminium - but I'll wait until I've tried it (and like it) before I try to make another one.
Mike
You are an engineering marvel, Mike!
Like so many others on our site.
Truly the most impressive group of reel nerds ever assembled in one place.
That reel shows great metalworking skills, and maybe more importantly — seemingly making the impossible jobs real.
Thank You for showing us the basic idea, process, and excellent result.
Best,
Fred
Mike, I've been admiring your masterpiece and it is gorgeous, but what really caught my eye is that stand.
I didn't think it would be possible to create a piece as suck, that piece alone should go in the museum, the rest of the reel could go to me ;D.
The bevels are perfect, you got some serious talent my friend, and patience :)
Yes I sound like a broken record and I'll say it again, because I don't know of a better word...AMAZING!
Sal
I'm awestruck Mike. Thanks!
Steve
An amazing piece, particularly without any machining from a lathe or Mill. Be very interested to hear how it goes in a real fishing situation.
That thing is cool as hell! Very nicely done!
I'm looking forward to seeing how it performs. If nothing else, Sal is right. It's a piece of art and a masterpiece!
Mike
Mike, time after time you amaze me more and more with your skills. I can't wait to see what's next.
I've had a chance to try out the underhead while bait fishing for table fish on a reef around 60 ft deep - and liked it. While I didn't land anything of size with it I did get half a dozen or so small fish and got a feel for fighting a larger fish with it when a shark grabbed one of my fish. I thought I was gaining line at one stage but I think he had just stopped to set a course on his GPS and the 35lb mono parted soon after he got his bearings. :D
A small venus tusk fish to break in the underhead;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_21_12_18_5_43_27_267261393.jpeg)
maneuvering around the blunt end of the boat when I still thought I might turn the shark;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_21_12_18_7_07_26_2672762.jpeg)
Back to the reel - I was able to control the spool with my thumb during casts although it was a bit of a stretch, I think a 10 mm (3/8") shorter leg will help a lot and still leave room for fingers between the line and foregrip. Same with guiding the line onto the spool - it wasn't all that awkward but having the line a little closer would be better. It was no surprise a shorter leg would be better, I started a second frame a little while back and I'm getting close to finishing it.
Mike
Looks like a blast! I think we would all love to follow your adventures with that reel.
Hi Mike
Do you think a rod with the bottom line guide a bit closer to the reel might help with guiding the line on?
Greg
So cool to see your vision turn into a success Mike!
Awesome work!!
Thanks guys, I'm pretty happy with it so far. It will take a bit of getting used to - one thing I've noticed with line lay is the top 'stand' limits your view of the spool and I had to look at the back of the spool to see how things were going.
Quote from: basto on December 22, 2018, 08:16:32 PM
Hi Mike
Do you think a rod with the bottom line guide a bit closer to the reel might help with guiding the line on?
Greg
Quite possibly Greg, I'll give it a try - the rod I had it on is an old Penn Powerstik overhead rod with a broken tip that I rewrapped as a spinning rod a few years ago.
Mike
😯😯😯😯
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😯 😯
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😯 😯
😯😯😯😯
Take 2.
The second underhead is ready to spool, it is pretty much the same as the first with a 10mm shorter leg and Lee-Pro side plates. I have also skipped polishing the frame and left it matt after buffing it with a 400 grit wheel in the dremel.
The frame components;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_01_01_19_1_26_03_267601204.jpeg)
The leg/stand assembly next to the first version;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_01_01_19_1_26_23_26772731.jpeg)
I haven't had any experience with Lee-Pro plates and found these to be very touchy with the spool location. At first I thought it might be something to do with my frame (the first underhead) but it wasn't any easier with a tib 501 frame. After a bit of trial and error with shims inside the bushing and/or under the bushing in the head plate I got it to work using a 0.7mm delrin shim under the bushing.
Version two with a penn SS spool and the handle Sal made to match the side plates;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_01_01_19_1_26_59_267731771.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_01_01_19_1_27_38_267742280.jpeg)
And the two versions together;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_01_01_19_1_28_44_267751604.jpeg)
As much as I like stainless, I'm thinking a lighter Aluminium frame might be nice......
Mike
Hello Mike, it's true what they say: the second time will be much easier, time to start production😁.
I hear you on weight and going with aluminum, but as for looks those are the best Jigmaster pair I've ever seen and I'm not saying this because of my knobs🙂.
Report back on how it handles when you get the time.
I would love to hear your thoughts comparing the two.
Excellent job Mike!
Cheer,
Sal
Next level hand craftsmanship Mike. Sal's handles definitely finish them right off!
Mike you make it look so easy, but Im not going to let you fool me. Incredible skills were involved to produce this brace of reels.
Outstanding....Bill
Really great Mike, I was surprised, that you went to the trouble, of making a second reel just to get the shorter foot, but the reel with the green plates & Sals knob really came up great, thanks for taking us on that journey, a great learning curve for all of us, cheers Don. by the way a drum sander I have fifty thousand million of them with my dremmel set.
Take 3.
I've made a start on an aluminium underhead frame. First step was to bend a piece of 6 x50 mm 6061 flat bar for the frame spacers and trim a piece of 40 x 40 mm square 6061 to length for the stand;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_27_43_26958946.jpeg)
Next was to mark and drill some 6 mm and 12 mm holes to help with shaping the stand. For the full length 6mm chain drilling, to avoid breaking into the adjacent hole and pushing the bit offline, I first drilled a 5mm hole and then cleaned it out with a 6mm bit;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_28_14_26958181.jpeg)
Lines marked for saw cuts to join the holes;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_28_39_269601194.jpeg)
And cut with a hacksaw;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_29_47_26964602.jpeg)
After cleaning up a bit with files and carbide burrs;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_29_28_26962197.jpeg)
Next was to drill and tap the side plate holes;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_29_46_269631838.jpeg)
Screw on rings and mark the material to be removed from the underside;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_30_27_26966267.jpeg)
I used files and a 50mm drum sander for the underside, then file a taper on the ends of the feet and start shaping with files;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_30_20_269651584.jpeg)
Cleaned up a bit more and ready to start finishing;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_28_01_19_1_30_56_26967702.jpeg)
That's as far as I've progressed for now, hoping to wrap to up it next weekend. :)
Mike
This is crazy talent Mike, you are showing us that possibilities on making custom parts are endless, especially when creating something as you did from a block of aluminum, using simple tools.
Sal
Mike this is seriously impressive 8)
Wow, Mike. I got a little lost going from the drilled block to the rough stand for a bit - excellent work, and I'm learning how to dream these things up like you do from watching your step-by-step. Impressive.
Sid
Looking good, and am going to be excited to see the "finished" product. ;)
Thanks for the kind words guys but it looks more complicated than it is, anyone could do it if they had the time. Once you decide on the shape you want it's just a matter of working with the tools available to remove the waste as easily as possible. In this case a drill press was used to reduce the amount of hand sawing needed by chain drilling the sides of the stem with the smaller bits and using a 12mm bit to form the radius at the ends of the stem as well as help remove material.
Sid, here's a photo taken between drilling the holes and the rough stand that I hope explains the process a bit better. Most of the saw cuts had been made to join the drilled holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/7995_29_01_19_3_21_52_269681311.jpeg)
I'm looking forward to 'finishing' this as well Chris and hope it works out.
Mike
The work is awe inspiring. Amazing what can be done with simple tools, determination and impressive skill.
Scott
Very impressive work !
Quote from: mhc on January 29, 2019, 11:24:41 AM
Sid, here's a photo taken between drilling the holes and the rough stand that I hope explains the process a bit better. Most of the saw cuts had been made to join the drilled holes.
Thanks, MIke, I get it, it's like sculpting rock, you take away what's not part of the final product. But it takes a vision I haven't yet developed, but seeing what you've done I have a good idea what's going on in your head now when you see a block of aluminum. You're Michaelangelo with metals. Metallic Michaelangelo. Catchy!
Sid, I'm with you. I have lots of mechanical ability, butt no artistic ability. I can picture in my mind an end product butt have no concept on how to remove the parts that don't belong. I say you are right Michaelangelo is correct.
A little off subject, I went to a museum in Florence that has loads of statues that were mistakes. Many were by Michaelangelo. The museum contained a piata that was misconfigured. It was interesting. In some way it was more interesting then the completed statues. One could see where the sculpture went wrong. For example an arm that was too short or too much material was removed at the knee joint. Things like that. Dominick
Imagine working on a multi-tonne block of alabaster for months (or even years), then realising you've made an arm too short or removed too much material from a knee joint! :o :'(
We're heading to Italy later this year and will have to put the Florentine museum on the list - it sounds fascinating!
Thanks Dominick.
Justin
You are doing some very interesting work Mike. I love the precision you put into the finishing. Beautiful work!!!
Greg
Hi Mike, you have great foresight man, looking forward to the end result, & I bet you are to, very interesting, cheers Don.
Quote from: redsetta on January 29, 2019, 07:56:25 PM
Imagine working on a multi-tonne block of alabaster for months (or even years), then realising you've made an arm too short or removed too much material from a knee joint! :o :'(
We're heading to Italy later this year and will have to put the Florentine museum on the list - it sounds fascinating!
Thanks Dominick.
Justin
I wish I could remember the name. I tried Googling it but I struck out. I did learn that there is a Leonard Di Vinci museum that from the website looks fascinating. Check it out. Dominick
Will do, thanks again mate
Quote from: Dominick on January 30, 2019, 12:29:10 AM
Quote from: redsetta on January 29, 2019, 07:56:25 PM
Imagine working on a multi-tonne block of alabaster for months (or even years), then realising you've made an arm too short or removed too much material from a knee joint! :o :'(
We're heading to Italy later this year and will have to put the Florentine museum on the list - it sounds fascinating!
Thanks Dominick.
Justin
I wish I could remember the name. I tried Googling it but I struck out. I did learn that there is a Leonard Di Vinci museum that from the website looks fascinating. Check it out. Dominick
Nice Justin, you will have a great time.
You can't go wrong in Firenze, there are many places to visit, but put this one at the very top: Galleria Degli Uffizi.
How long are you staying?
Sal
Thanks Sal.
Debbie's putting it all together (I call her my 'Community Outreach Manager' ;) ;D), but I believe we've got a few days in Rome on the way back to Ireland for our 20th Anniversary, then another week there on the way back to NZ.
I have a Sicilian mate (my 'best man' all those years ago) who I'm hoping will join us - can't beat local knowledge!
Galleria Degli, Uffizi is now on the list.
Thanks again
Really nice Mike. You have great imagination, excellent skills and a lot of guts. Coming up with another billet like that couldn't be cheap.
-steve
Quote from: sdlehr on January 29, 2019, 02:59:55 PM
Quote from: mhc on January 29, 2019, 11:24:41 AM
Sid, here's a photo taken between drilling the holes and the rough stand that I hope explains the process a bit better. Most of the saw cuts had been made to join the drilled holes.
Thanks, MIke, I get it, it's like sculpting rock, you take away what's not part of the final product. But it takes a vision I haven't yet developed, but seeing what you've done I have a good idea what's going on in your head now when you see a block of aluminum. You're Michaelangelo with metals. Metallic Michaelangelo. Catchy!
Metal Micky - ;D
Thanks guys, I was a bit ambitious thinking I would wrap it up the following weekend ::). There has been a slight change in direction for the 1st Al stand - I'm not entirely happy with it. The two grooves along the base are deeper than I had intended and it's messed up my plan of a narrow stand. I contacted Dominick's museum in Florence that specialises in sculpting/statue mistakes but they aren't taking new exhibits this year and suggested I try again after the current staff retire. Plan B was to put it on a Surfmaster 100.
The first step was to make another jig to drill surfmaster / squidder frame holes;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_22_02_19_4_03_12.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_03_03_19_4_20_36.jpeg)
Next was shape the spacer bars and finish shaping the stand;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_03_03_19_4_22_33.jpeg)
The surfmaster 100 doesn't generate the same drag capacity as a modified jigmaster so I thought it would OK to do away with the stainless spacer rings and drill the Penn side plates for the mounting holes. Using the jig, I made a template of the side plate holes, drilled and tapped the holes for a stock plate and dilled 3.5mm through holes for the new stand. Screwed the plates to the template and drilled the holes through the rings and tail plate;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_03_03_19_4_24_32.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_03_03_19_4_25_40.jpeg)
The stand was made from 40 mm square because I had intended to narrow it - now that it is going into a SM100 that is 41.5mm wide, 40mm is a bit narrow. To get closer to the correct width, I cut a couple of 0.5mm teflon spacers for each side;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_03_03_19_5_29_35.jpeg)
And a test fit;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_03_03_19_4_29_07.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_03_03_19_4_29_57.jpeg)
Everything seems to be working fine, next step will be to decide how to fill the unused side plate holes - and final finish the frame components. Next weekend ;D
Mike
:D :D...beautifully done Mike. One day I'm going to fly over, just to watch you work :)
Always an amazing job, I always look forwards to your postings.
Thanks Mike!
Sal
Same here Sal, and there is much more to come with this project, which I'm sure Mike will reveal when he's ready.
How much accomadation do you have over there Mike, we might all turn up, thanks for keeping us entertained, cheers Don, it would possibly be cheaper to fly from America, or Canada, that to fly across Australia.
Thanks guys, but I'll warn you I work at a glacial pace - if anyone wants to watch they had better bring a good book or something to fill in their day! ;D
Quote from: Rothmar2 on March 03, 2019, 10:12:23 PM
Same here Sal, and there is much more to come with this project, which I'm sure Mike will reveal when he's ready.
Chris is correct, there is still a bit more to do do with this project. Finish the Surfmaster 100 for a start, then get back on track with the original plan of an aluminium 501 underhead. I've also been side tracked with setting up a small home anodising bath, using the type 2 low current density system promoted by Casswell - it's early stages yet but the few trials I've done look promising. I'm using Rit fabric dye for these trials but will either do a clear finish or use an anodizing dye when I do reel parts. The same dye batch, temp and time were used to color the two pairs of test pieces of 6061 T6 Al shown below. The pair on the left were timed to form a 0.5 MIL (~0.5 thou) thickness at 6 amps/Ft
2 and the two on the right were timed to produce a 0.7 MIL thickness at the same current density.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_05_03_19_5_02_35.jpeg)
A run timed to produce 1.0 MIL was trialed after this photo and produced a deeper red than the 0.7 MIL, as you would expect - I'll take more photos later when I've experimented with it a bit more.
Thanks
Mike
Keep it coming Mike - I'm luving it ;)
This is such a cool thread....
Beautiful work!
Not to short change your machinist skills Mike, but the anodizing looks great. I've been hoping that someone would sort that out and show us how it's done.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on March 05, 2019, 08:19:38 PM
Not to short change your machinist skills Mike, but the anodizing looks great. I've been hoping that someone would sort that out and show us how it's done.
-steve
I agree with Steve those colors look great. I am in awe with the skill you are showing in this project. Dominick
Great thread, that is a good looking red on those parts
Wow Mike, love the anodizing. Wish I could do my own because the anodizing shops are very expensive nowadays
Last year I stripped the aluminium parts (most of 'em) from my line spooler and took them to a couple of local anodizing firms for a quote. :o you want how much :o
Needless to say they are still bare aluminium. Maybe I'll paint them one day :-\
Hey how did you bend your 6061? No mention of heating but maybe you did. I've heard that it doesn't like to u less you have the perfect temperature
Quote from: Chuck on March 10, 2019, 04:02:09 PM
Hey how did you bend your 6061? No mention of heating but maybe you did. I've heard that it doesn't like to u less you have the perfect temperature
No heat, I didn't want to lose the T6 temper - it was cold formed around a 60mm bar held in a vice using a 3' cheater bar. I'm new to this sort of stuff so I did a bit of web searching about bending Al. Apparently it depends on the thickness and temper as to what minimum radius 6061 can be safely bent without structural damage. I used a chart from Ullrich Aluminium Company Ltd Australia's website as a guide;
(http://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_11_03_19_1_37_15.jpeg)
For 6.0mm thick 6061 T6 the minimum radius = 4t (or 24mm). I'm thinking the 30 mm (ish) radius that my piece ended up after being bent around the 60mm bar should be within the limits - there wasn't any signs of cracking although there was a bit of distortion of the cross section.
Mike
Gosh, I wish I understood this stuff. ???? Dominick
Here's a photo of the three red pieces anodised for different times to produce 0.5, 0.7 & 1.0 mil (according to the instructions :)) I can't test the thickness, but by using the same dying process each time the shades seem to show it is deeper with the longer runs.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_03_19_4_18_26_273221176.jpeg)
The photo isn't as clear as I would have liked - it was taken with my phone and I've since tried polishing the pieces with autosol metal polish, I should have realised it is pretty aggressive by the way it polishes stainless.
Back to the surfmaster frame side track - I ran it and a couple more test strips at settings for a 1 mil anodise. The pieces 'racked' on titanium wire after degreasing and rinsed with distilled;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_03_19_4_17_47_273211415.jpeg)
As it turned out, the frame spacer on the left either didn't have a good electrical connection to start with or it failed very early in the process - the uncertainty means I will need to strip any anodise that may have formed before it's re-done (I'm waiting on some phosphoric acid to strip existing anodise).
A clear finish on the frame bits, and the spacer at the bottom of the photo that didn't take;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_03_19_4_19_18_27323441.jpeg)
While I'm waiting for the black anodising dye I've ordered, I thought I would try some 'gun metal' gray fabric dye or maybe it was gun smoke or whatever - it looked gray. The how to anodise guides generally say black is the most difficult colors to do - if my black pieces turn out as dark as the gray I'll be happy ;D ;D
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_03_19_4_20_54_273241286.jpeg)
I'll start a new thread on anodising when I get it sorted but I think it will mostly be links to the sites I've followed.
Mike
This is crazy Mike, I haven't seen anyone on here take on anodizing... Powder coating yes, but not anodizing.
You are amazing.
Sal
Oh...be careful with that stuff, I did some research and it scared me a bit :)
I got a deal on a 99 newellized 501. Unfortunately the spacer bar screws snapped off as th y were corroded in there. Decided to play with some aluminum and then looked into home anodizing. Probably not as tough as commercial grade stuff but turned out pretty good as I got my process down. First piece had bad connection. Second piece I changed my cathode but didn't process off the old layer from a previous attempt but worked better. 3rd and 4th are for jigmaster 500, they were from the same batch but different does and changed my cathode again, this time from lead to aluminum. Last piece realized my acid was weak and let it go longer in there and it finally after a week of 'tuning' took the dye very well. Shows a little bit of defects but these are all hand sanded and as I've learned, anodizing doesn't hide anything, it makes it stand out more! Very fun little project
Good to see you having a go at anodizing Chuck, I'm finding a lot of care and attention to detail is needed to get consistent results - my last trial was a bit disappointing so I've put off re-anodizing the surfmaster frame until I work out what happened and run a few more trials. I'll start an anodizing thread soon so we can compare notes.
Mike
The black anodizing dye I had been waiting on to finish the U/H 100 didn't work as well as I had hoped - there are a few details of the trials I did with it on the thread on home anodizing, including the dark purple result with the underhead surfmaster frame. I had intended to strip the dark purple and redo it with a 2nd brand of black dye that seems to working a lot better but the dark purple started to grow on me, maybe after Dom said he liked it :) - so I have left it as it is;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_19_05_19_2_52_12_28010475.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_19_05_19_2_52_46_28014642.jpeg)
Take 4
With the surfmaster frame out of the way, I have made a start on an Al underhead XN 501 frame, using much the same methods used for the surfmaster frame;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_19_05_19_2_53_40_28016505.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_19_05_19_2_53_07_280152456.jpeg)
That should be more than enough underhead reels for a while. ;D
Mike
I'm using a set of accuplates with a bit of boat rash for this reel;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_45_19_280732384.jpeg)
The plates will be screwed directly to the new stand like the surfmaster - so it was off to the lab to strip the anondize before drilling the stand holes;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_45_43_280731993.jpeg)
and stripped;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_45_42_281011333.jpeg)
I made a template similar to the one used for the surfmaster to drill the stand holes;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_46_09_2810444.jpeg)
Using a 5mm carbide burr to recess the screw holes for the screw heads;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_46_05_28103943.jpeg)
A quick test fit;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_46_45_281051186.jpeg)
The stand needs a bit more removed from one end and deeper screw holes but the rest of the frame is ready to finish sanding.
I've been thinking about using woodworking router bits on aluminium for a while - this was a good time to try it, using a bearing guided 1/4" radius round over bit mounted in the drill press. I took very shallow cuts ~ 0.5 mm and had the side plates screwed to a piece of 10 mm steell plate to give it some weight and somewhere to hold away from the sharp bits for when the piece kicked - I didn't get any photos of the process, I was a bit pre-occupied. The finish was a little rough and finished a tad deep leaving a slight ridge that needed to be filed and sanded out.
The head plate after routing;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_47_00_28106684.jpeg)
I mounted the tail plate in the drill press to make filing and sanding easier;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_48_30_281082365.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_48_59_28109494.jpeg)
The head plate is being filed and sanded by hand. Both plates need a little more work before polishing them;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_29_05_19_12_49_17_281101567.jpeg)
That's as far as I've progressed - more to come later.
Mike
On its way on being a masterpiece...
Sal
Wow...!!
I really like that dark purple on the frame Mike. I bet with the plates done in silver it would look killer.
Great idea with the router bit Mike.
-steve
Still liking the dark purple, Mike. 8) Not to mention the fact that no one will have that color, but many will have black. A special color for a special reel.
Man, routing those edges looks like it would be a bear. Again, very impressive work, Mike.
I'm subscribed!
Thanks for showing
Dom
Pretty brave to do this to a set of Accuplates. You have rightfully grown in confidence with your skills to take on this challenge.
I like that dark purple too. It has a sinister look to it. Ready for action.
Those accuplates are now mhc plates. Looking good !!
You can't stop making Underhead reels Mike. The Ohana demands that you must continue making more one off masterpieces to share with the world
Ted
Thanks guys, good to know some of you like the dark purple, I've still got the dye that produced that color but it was frustratingly finicky trying to reproduce any consistant results with it. Im still tossing around a few ideas for the finish on this reel ranging from all black like the accurate 'mutant' reels I've seen to my default all silver and a few color combinations in between.
Quote from: Alto Mare on May 29, 2019, 11:06:33 AM
On its way on being a masterpiece...
Sal
I hope so Sal, there is still a fair bit of finishing to do - not my favorite part! ::) :)
Quote from: oc1 on May 29, 2019, 04:52:38 PM
Great idea with the router bit Mike.
-steve
It's one of the reasons I've tried anodizing Steve - I have wanted to make / modify aluminium parts for a while after I saw a friend use a hand held electric planer to smooth out some Al welding a few years ago. It just needs a bit of vegetable oil to stop the aluminium binding to the tungsten blades / cutters.
Quote from: broadway on May 29, 2019, 09:59:47 PM
Man, routing those edges looks like it would be a bear.
Correct, a drill press is the wrong tool for this type of work, not only is it tedious raising the table in small increments it can be a bit risky - the chuck is held in the quill by a morse taper, perfect for downward pressure that the press is designed for but the chuck can work loose under lateral loads when trying to 'mill' with one. The bearings supporting the quill aren't designed for lateral loads either.
Quote from: Rothmar2 on May 29, 2019, 10:58:13 PM
Pretty brave to do this to a set of Accuplates. You have rightfully grown in confidence with your skills to take on this challenge.
Thanks mate - more confident but not yet confident, I circled these plates for a few days before starting. :)
Quote from: Maxed Out on May 30, 2019, 12:57:05 AM
You can't stop making Underhead reels Mike. The Ohana demands that you must continue making more one off masterpieces to share with the world
Ted
Thanks Ted, I'll give the underheads a rest but I've got a couple more one off reels planned - and possibly some adventurous anodizing. ;)
Thanks again
Mike
Everyone knows that when you don't use a one piece frame with aluminium side plates the recess where the main gear is housed needs a cover over the area outside the spool - even me, but I forgot until I started polishing the plates. Sal has shown us the cover he and Allan C used on the stainless jigmaster plates that was recessed into the plates so that it sat flush with the inside surface of the plate. I was reluctant to modify the plate so opted for a 2mm cover that is thick enough to tap 5-40 hole at the uncovered end and recessed area at the other end under the spacer bar.
First was to roughly cut a piece of 2mm stainless to shape, drill and tap one end and drill a 3.2mm through hole at the spacer bar end;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_57_08_284231393.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_57_06_28422728.jpeg)
Next was to mark the shape and location of recess under the spacer bar;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_57_24_284241379.jpeg)
I used a flat carbide burr to reduce the thickness of area under under the bar to 0.8mm;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_57_32_284252274.jpeg)
Cleaned it up with a fine file;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_57_50_284261683.jpeg)
Then used the same file to cut a 0.8mm recess in the end of the spacer bar;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_58_21_284282049.jpeg)
Cleaned up and screwed in place - complete with a few gaps but not enough to make a new one :-[.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_58_10_284272373.jpeg)
With the spool in place to check clearance,
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_58_33_284291967.jpeg)
And a sneak preview of the reel;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_15_06_19_11_58_43_284302049.jpeg)
Now to decide on a finish... :-\
Mike
Excellent choice with the cover plate, this is why you are who you are.
To me that is the best looking Jigmaster out there and I mean it!
Sal
Really nice work Mike love it, cheers Don.
You have created a masterpiece that will be the envy of whatever boat (or surf fishing) you take her out on.
You spared no expense and cut no corners.
Be proud of yourself... I know we are!
Thanks for the preview. Now I can;t wait to see which route you go with the finish.
I love Ted's OG color, pewter.
Dom
Thanks again guys, I ended up going for black fade over a light blue base with the anodizing dyes - it turned out a gunmetal color that's darker on the bottom of the reel;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_13_07_19_12_32_40_287071901.jpeg)
The cap head stainless screws were sticking out a bit with the rounded edge on the plates so I used button head socket screws and had a go at darkening the stainless by heating it with a butane torch;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_13_07_19_12_03_52_286732428.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_13_07_19_12_04_19_287021774.jpeg)
Not sure how long it will last but the color blended in with the plates more than bright stainless.
The reel fully assembled for the first time;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_13_07_19_12_04_55_287032121.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_13_07_19_12_05_15_287042382.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_13_07_19_12_05_58_287051881.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_13_07_19_12_06_06_28706714.jpeg)
I'll try to dye one of Ted's handle arms and eccentric levers to match the plates next time I anodize some stuff.
Mike
I've seen homemade reels before, but never one that looked like it came out of a factory. That's just incredible Mike.
-steve
Truly, a job to be proud of !
Looks great!! Impressive doesn't begin to describe it!
Yes Mike, I agree with Steve, sweet reel alright, you would have to be a very proud man, I hope your going to keep it, I wont to fish with it when you come over here, cheers Don.
priceless!!!
You learn something everyday. I know it's the opposite of an overhead.
I agree with Steve... that reel looks like a production reel, all day!
Mike, you did an exceptional job of build an amazing reel for yourself.
Congratulations on all your hard work and thanks for taking us along for the ride.
So impressive,
Dom
Wow Mike, you have created a reel like no other as I sit here in amazement drooling at the Underhead jigmaster. Your attention to detail is 2nd to none. I love that pewter color along with the darkened screws too !!
Ted
Congratulations Mike on what is a legendary accomplishment.
Greg
That's beautiful! Nice thought with the stainless screws. Be very careful if you ever take it fishing, because this reel is a true work of art on so many levels.
You're in a class by yourself Mike...such impressive work. I would blow people's minds if I showed up at the dam packin' that beast! Congrats on creating a masterpiece. 8)
Yes Mike Mo, masterpiece alright, maybe photo of the month, cheers Don.
Fantastic work , this color is beautiful and does'nt distract much from the perfect design .
Mike, you probably will take that reel for a test run, just make sure it has a safety line to it🙂.
As I've mentioned above, that masterpiece is priceless.
Sal
I agree with Steve and Dom - absolutely stellar 'factory quality' work Mike.
Congratulations and thanks for taking us all along for the ride!
All the best, Justin
Thanks everyone for the kind words, I appreciate the encouragement. It's been 12 months since I started the underhead project and I've learnt a lot along the way - I'm pretty happy with the fourth and probably final attempt.
Quote from: Rothmar2 on July 13, 2019, 09:19:50 PM
Be very careful if you ever take it fishing, because this reel is a true work of art on so many levels.
Quote from: Alto Mare on July 14, 2019, 12:13:52 PM
Mike, you probably will take that reel for a test run, just make sure it has a safety line to it🙂.
Sal
I do intend to use the reel but hadn't thought much about securing it - a lanyard sounds like a good idea.
Mike
When you start adding up the hours that went into it, that may be the most valuable reel ever discussed here. Fishing it just to say it's possible is one thing but it should be preserved for posterity. Maybe you should keep a hard copy of this thread as provenance.
But, now that you've cracked all the nuts, what's next???
-steve
I haven't decided what's next Steve, I've got a couple of 'blemished' Cortez jigmaster side plates that Tom sent over to experiment with as well as the Maxed Out 113H parts Ted sent - so probably another jigmaster (overhead :)) or a 113H of some description.
Mike
(https://alantani.com/gallery/36/17471-240522184538-36798580.jpeg)
I don`t know how i missed this thread all these years , but i am going back for a slow read ...
Lots of jig engineering going on .