Hi All,
I'm looking for some advice. My Father gifted me a Mitchell 300 that appears to be an older model. I was looking to clean it up as best could be and replace a few parts. It appears to be an earlier model with the serial number on the body itself containing seven numbers (1194202). From what I could read on the Mitchell Collectors website it appears to be a first period reel (yet still has a full bail).
This reel was used in the Northeast and there's a few parts that have serious corrosion (bail and reel trip lever) and almost every screw needed some penetrating oil to remove it.
It looks like there's a decent amount of parts on ebay for the 300, but if someone aware of one place or business I could pretty much purchase replacement screws, a bail, trip lever, springs and a handle (which was bent), that would really help me.
Are there any concerns regarding the year of manufacture and what type of parts could fit in this reel?
I'd appreciate any thoughts or advice.
Thanks,
Matt
I have all of the parts, Matt —-
Best, Fred
Thank you Fred,
I had a hunch you would be the go to guy, but felt like I've been leaning on you for lots of information and help otherwise. I'll send you a PM. Have a great Holiday.
Matt
Never a problem, Matt —
These parts need to be in a reel, not a bin —
N/C.
Best, Fred
The first 3 versions have no serial #'s. Your's "might" be a 6th version from the mid to late '50's. Can you post a picture? Also, what is the exact location of the serial #'s?
Thanks Greg - I did not take a before photo. The internals are bathing in lacquer thinner right now.
Here's some photos of the body. I found some additional information at the Mitchell Reel Museum which, has this serial number in 1956.
Were their drastic changes in the parts being used?
Thanks you both,
Matt
The only "drastic" changes (1939 - ~ 1980) IMO, were the switch from a 1/2 bail(~early '50's?) to a full, and the change from a tiny "level-wind" transfer gear to a larger "crosswind" trans.gear. Don't know when that change was made.
I tested the casting difference between the two, as well as the visual appearance of the line wound on the spool. Couldn't see or get any difference... the older 1/2 bail reel had 10 revolutions on the crank to get one full up-down rev.of the spool. The newer model had 2.75 cranks to get a full up-down rev. On the spool...?
That's one of the cool things about the 300's from that era, 40+ years and only 2 major changes.
Trans. Gear and 1/2 to full bail changes;
More...
Thank you for cracking those eggs open for me to take a look. Nice collection.
The gearing and handles are the same as your reel on the right. I imagine the slide guide would be the same, but do you gents know if that's the case?
The oscillation unit did change slightly, but I believe they are all interchangeable, including the slide guide.
The version 6 is good one. Comparing it to a 7(?, 1974 with a "D" in front of the serial#) I have, they made one minor change that subjectively, to me is major; a plastic looking anti-reverse pawl. Just me, but plastic at a stress point like that is unacceptable, so being pristine it will be a shelfie.
Overall, the first 3 versions have more aluminum/metal in them. For example the drag-knob and that round handle-knob. The spool parts like the hub and the drag-clicker are aluminum and steel. See if I have some pictures...
300 stuff:1)old version (2?, 3?) spool construction
What's interesting is the spool main body on these is Plastic! Whereas the spool main body on the V.6 & 7 are solid aluminum! But the hub on the newer versions and click gears are plastic.
Newer version spool and slide-ossilation comparison old(left), New(right).
Note the metal bail-trip knob and the absence of 2 cut-outs on the older reel's baffle plate.
I think almost all of the assembled units(such as a whole spool, a fully assembled rotor, or say a gear box) in the 300 are interchangeable. Maybe for heck of it I'll see if the rotor/baffle plate off the oldie will work on the gear box from the version 6...?
I tried to service my dad's old 300 from his childhood recently and managed to mangle the bail spring and bail trip spring pretty bad. Any tricks on how to reattach without screwing these up?
Yes, there is a kind of a trick to it —- when the bail screw is about halfway in, the bail needs to move over the stop shoulder on the rotor —- then tighten it up.
Once you have done a couple —- it becomes natural.
Let me know if you need new springs.
N/C.
Best, Fred