Always looking for ways to become more efficient & quicker when servicing and restoring old reels.
I generally soak really nasty & greasy caked on parts in lacquer thinner to loosen and clean them up.
Generally takes a couple of hours for the bad ones -- or overnight -- then a fair amount of after cleaning also.
Decided to use a jelly jar on some parts from a 45 year old DAM Quick 110 Microlite -- and try to speed up the process with the ultrasonic cleaner.
Took the reel apart -- separated all parts into various glass containers within the water filled reservoir of the US cleaner.
All steel, chromed brass, bronze, copper, and other plain metals went into the Lacquer -- painted parts and plastic parts went into the 50/50 Simple Green and water.
6 minutes was all I ran it for -- the results were fantastic.
Little or no follow up cleaning -- all parts bright, shiny, clean -- after a fresh water rinse and drying.
Do not use lacquer thinner on painted, plastic, or graphite parts -- it will melt and ruin them.
Old dog learns new tricks, I guess.
Best,
Fred
Good Stuff Fred.
I wish I had a building outside of my home to get it done quick.
I'm not shy from using powerful cleaners, but it is limited to the driveway.
Doing 2 more for the same guy --
A Mitchell 308 & a Quantum.
This 308 was so gummed up -- I was afraid the handle would bend when trying to crank the reel.
All internals were black and gritty -- externals were tarnished or gunky.
5 minutes to disassemble -- 6 minutes in the US cleaner -- 5 minutes to rinse and dry parts
Hopefully will post another completed pic in 15 or so minutes when it is reassembled, greased, tuned, and oiled.
Best,
Fred
Completed --
It is not really only about how fast the US cleaner does the work with the lacquer thinner -- it is the degree of cleanliness inside every tiny bearing, nook, and cranny.
Best,
Fred
Totally agree Fred. The UC is a very efficient method and saves masses of time.
Right, Chris --
Having used an ultrasonic cleaner now for around 16 years -- it is indespensible to my operation.
My surprise was using the lacquer thinner with the US cleaner -- aliminum that previously would get a black film after cleaning -- particularly on Mitchells & Daiwas -- now comes out sparkling and clean.
The (3) solutions that I have used primarily are the ZEP HD Industrial Purple Degreaser, Simple Green, and plain White Vinegar.
Now the lacquer thinner has a strong place in the line up.
Knowing what type of solutions to use with certain materials for best case results -- is key.
And I guess something I forgot to mention -- having the US Cleaner with various effective liquid solutions has allowed me to have a shop in the house for convenience -- because compared to the kerosene parts cleaners and such -- this is a quick, safe, and simple cleaning method.
Best,
Fred
Fred, so the lacquer thinner goes into the jar along with the parts, regular water in the US and no heat I would assume. Is this correct?
Thanks, .. Lou
Exactly, Lou --
I have never used heat with the US cleaner.
Plus, the lacquer thinner is typically reused for 10 to 12 reel cleanings.
Best,
Fred
I have been using IPA (isopropyl alcohol not Indian Pale Ale :D) for the spirit cleaner. The smell (indoors) is tolerable and it's a lot safer than many spirits ;)
I have used mild heat occasionally - usually with UK equivalent to simple green (not IPA it evaporates too quickly).
Also for the second clean for the bearings I use virgin IPA.
Very cool Fred, thanks for sharing.
On bearings, this stuff has been doing great for me, I've been using it for over 4 years.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20161118_205735.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20161118_205735.jpg.html)
It would be very hard for me to use something else, but you never know.
Any brand or type a lacquer thinner Fred, or is one better n' others?
I coveted the 110 and the 308/408 when I's a kid, but couldn't afford 'em(esp. after my brothers 110 was confiscated for illegal fishing, an I hada buy him a new one), do you have a preference?
Gfish
Thanks Fred!
After they banned MEK many years back I discovered lacquer thinner for removing all things evil in my work.
I wear nitrile or latex gloves with that stuff and always have good ventilation!
Steve
I was doing some Mitchell's a month ago and used the US Cleaner for a super clean. On one of them I put it in and turned around to wash my hands. I looked back and paint was floating on top in sheets. Less than 30 seconds.
It had been painted....
Quote from: Gfish on November 20, 2016, 06:21:54 PM
Any brand or type a lacquer thinner Fred, or is one better n' others?
I coveted the 110 and the 308/408 when I's a kid, but couldn't afford 'em(esp. after my brothers 110 was confiscated for illegal fishing, an I hada buy him a new one), do you have a preference?
Gfish
I believe there is not any difference in beands of lacquer thinner, Gfish -- so the cheaper the better.
Generally buy a couple of gallons at a time for the cheapest price on sale.
On the 110 vs. the 308/408 -- my personal preference is the 110. Although the little Mitchells are good reels, and more attractive, IMO.
Someday, I will do a direct photo comparison of a 300 Mitchell vs. a 220 Quick -- then a 308/408 Mitchell vs. a 110 Quick.
Steel worm drive with bronze main gear, steel crank shaft with 1.5" sleeved body for the crank, HD handle crank, oversize main bearing, best A/R system of any reel, stronger aircraft grade aluminum body, and much
more -- but the big thing is the strength along with the spooky tight tolerances that never get out of perfect -- unless dropped or damaged -- even after 50 years.
Just my personal opinions.
Best,
Fred
Fred,
Every US I've seen clearly states not to use flammable liquids.
If I read this correctly, you are also sealing the mix in a mason jar?
You do realize you've made a bomb, right? A pressure vessel in a heated environment causes
big boom.
Years ago we had an operator at work get severely burned by using isopropal
Alcohol in a US. Doing excatly what you are describing.
Please be careful!
Tom
You are right, Tom --
I never cap or seal the jar -- just leave it open, always when in the US cleaner.
Plus the US cleaner I use currently has no heating element -- and I have never used heat for cleaning.
So there should be no pressure buildup.
This is how many painters clean the small parts like springs, tips, and orifices on their airless spray rigs.
This works well for me, but everyone needs to use common sense -- including not smoking, do everything in a ventilated area, no heat, and no pressure build up by sealing a container.
Also, when using any type of mineral spirits -- all rags should be allowed to dry in the open air on something metal or rocklike -- to prevent spontaneous combustion.
Basic safety -- but I do not want folks to get the wrong idea...mineral spirits are not for everyone -- I have a lot of experience with them, and a lot of respect. Plus I never leave things unattended when operating.
If you think this is still an issue, Tom -- I will cancel the thread.
Best,
Fred
I don't think you should cancel the thread Fred.
I just wanted to make sure folks understand what you are doing.
BTW,the Ultrasonic process generates it's own heat. Left on for longer times, you will get heat generation.
OK, Good, Tom --
Right, the US cleaner by itself gets up to about 85 degrees in the reservoir.
That is why I do not need a heater -- plus it is just one more thing to go out prematurely -- like most heating elements do regularly.
Maximum time on the ultrasonic cleaner is limited by a 6 minute analog mechanical timer.
It can be repeated as necessary -- but if that doesn't do the job in 6 minutes -- a longer soak in just a jar with vinegar or minerals spirits overnight, plus a toothbrush afterwards generally does the job.
19 times out of 20 -- 6 minutes is all it needs.
Caution, safety, and common sense are important here.
Best,
Fred
Solvents will send off a lot of fumes when used in a sonic cleaner. Acetone seems to boil when exposed to the vibration. Haven't tried lacquer thinner. I cap the jar but do not tighten the cap. It is sort of a trade-off between making a bomb and making a toxic cloud. Also, I don't use anything stronger than naphtha now. Also, also, our workshop is just a screened-in hut with a big fan.
-steve
With Tom's concern for your method's Fred.
That is why I posted the first reply about using Industrial Cleaners in the Driveway and not the house.
I don't have any outside buildings.
I would love to try this method, but just inside the door from my garage is my Gas Furnace, and I don't want to blow up my house.
I'm just getting tired of going out in the Driveway with a can of Brake Clean and a Tooth Brush in freezing temperatures.
The Brake Cleaner will freeze your hands anyway and eats right through disposable gloves.
With a reel that is really gunked up, This is my only method so far, besides using Coleman fuel in a bucket, but that stuff is extremely flammable and I'm very careful with it. I don't smoke, but the last time I used it, my neighbor came over with a lit cigar.
I told him to put it out or go away. It is really just Naptha, but with the dangers of Gasoline.
Bottom Line, I need a Ultra Sonic Cleaner and a shed. ;)
This post has convinced me to buy an ultrasonic cleaner. I have looked around on the internet and I have found them with prices ranging from $80-$2500. I am MOSTLY only doing freshwater reels, there will be the odd Tranx or Calcutta 700TE. Other than size and the ability to add heat are all ultrasonic cleaners created equal? If not does anyone have any recommendations for an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner?
Thanks
Tom
I've been using one of these from Ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3L-STRONG-DIGITAL-STAINLESS-CLEANER-ULTRA-SONIC-BATH-CLEANING-TANK-TIMER-HEATE/182125792442?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40860%26meid%3Dacf7c12993c24d1f9f9ac7d88b4b0ba7%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D181872823891
It does the job just fine and it's cheap enough to replace if it goes kaput.
The larger 6litre version has a tap for drainage.
Quote from: FishermanTom81 on January 13, 2017, 07:34:15 AM
This post has convinced me to buy an ultrasonic cleaner. I have looked around on the internet and I have found them with prices ranging from $80-$2500. I am MOSTLY only doing freshwater reels, there will be the odd Tranx or Calcutta 700TE. Other than size and the ability to add heat are all ultrasonic cleaners created equal? If not does anyone have any recommendations for an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner?
Thanks
Tom
I really prefer simply turning a dial rather than messing around with fiddly digital inputs. It's so much easier.
When I looked, you had to buy a 6 liter unit to gain any extra immersion depth so if you are doing a lot of larger game reels this would be an advantage as would an extra transducer in a larger unit.
I have not heard anything bad about Chinese Units but I paid a little extra for a local product so service and spares would be a smooth transaction.
~
Fred...or anyone else..i recently aquired a Branson 2510 ultrasonic cleaner with no heater..i saw in your picture you have glass jars inside cleaner..what is the solution in jars..?..and will the cleaner work with just 50/50 purple power and water..new at this procedure..any input would be great..thanks Joe
Generally, I just use purple degreaser cut 50/50 wit( water in open wide mouth jars.
Plus, Simple Green also cut 50/50.
I do soak any unpainted metal parts (aluminum, SS, steel, brass, bronze, copper, alloys) in lacquer thinner to loosen and break up the dried or old greases — prior to using the US cleaner.
If really bad and crudded up — I might increase the purple or SG up to 100%.
Simple green works well on some painted surfaces — not so well on others. So experiment.
Many plastics will be ruined by SG, all plasticswill be ruined by purple degreaser or lacquer thinner.
Get some HD Blue Dawn dish soap if ever in doubt about a precious or irrecplaceable part. Soak in hot water overnight.
You must be careful with US cleaners — they are very effective and quick — but monitoring and experience are key.
Best,
Fred
I have found that evoporust works in the US cleaner better then Simple Green, and it's safe. You can even reuse it over and over.
Joe
sooo...you make a 50/50 mixture ..put i mason jars...the you put the jar with parts in in in the us cleaner...my has a basket...can i just put the 50/50 mix in the us cleaner tank...parts in basket ..let it do its thing...or is there something with putting parts in jar then in us cleaner..? little confused..
I use a jar for all my small parts. You can use water in the tank if the jars and US cleaner are large enough for all your needs. My tank is small and some full frame reels do not fit in a jar.
You can just put the SG or Purple, or whatever — into the main reservoir.
But it then requires cleaning out the reservoir of grease, crud, etc.
And a waste of much solution that just gets expensively used up.
I just fill the reservoir with fresh water — then I am able to use 1, 2, or 3 jars with different solutions at the same time.
Plus, generally, I can get 10 - 15 reel cleanings out of each jar before it is used up.
And I have little or no clean up.
I do use a SS pasta strainer, or for smaller parts — a tea strainer to drain the parts into prior to rinsing in fresh warm water.
It all really just depends on your personal preferences, how may reels you do, and the clean up that you are willing to do.
I can disassemble a Penn conventional completely in 5 minutes, put the badly greased metal parts into lacquer thinner for 20 minutes, then put the metal parts into SG or Purple in a Mason jar for 8 minutes in the US cleaner, along with the crank and Bakelite plates in a separate jar of SG also in the US cleaner reservoir — rinse, dry — and reassemble, lube, and tune. Whole process may take 45 minutes for a complete. And this is more than a clean and relube — it is a full job inside and out.
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred...that answers my questions...the parts in the mason jars with pp/water solution and just the water in the cleaner..and the parts get cleaned that are in mason jars ..that are set in the us cleaner.. okkk..whooo...Joe
Quote from: joe k on February 16, 2019, 06:32:28 PM
Thanks Fred...that answers my questions...the parts in the mason jars with pp/water solution and just the water in the cleaner..and the parts get cleaned that are in mason jars ..that are set in the us cleaner.. okkk..whooo...Joe
Zactly... Dominick
Quote from: foakes on February 16, 2019, 06:23:49 PM
You can just put the SG or Purple, or whatever — into the main reservoir.
But it then requires cleaning out the reservoir of grease, crud, etc.
And a waste of much solution that just gets expensively used up.
I just fill the reservoir with fresh water — then I am able to use 1, 2, or 3 jars with different solutions at the same time.
Plus, generally, I can get 10 - 15 reel cleanings out of each jar before it is used up.
Fred, any recommendations for a smallish US cleaner?
Jay
And I have little or no clean up.
I do use a SS pasta strainer, or for smaller parts — a tea strainer to drain the parts into prior to rinsing in fresh warm water.
It all really just depends on your personal preferences, how may reels you do, and the clean up that you are willing to do.
I can disassemble a Penn conventional completely in 5 minutes, put the badly greased metal parts into lacquer thinner for 20 minutes, then put the metal parts into SG or Purple in a Mason jar for 8 minutes in the US cleaner, along with the crank and Bakelite plates in a separate jar of SG also in the US cleaner reservoir — rinse, dry — and reassemble, lube, and tune. Whole process may take 45 minutes for a complete. And this is more than a clean and relube — it is a full job inside and out.
Best,
Fred
Fred, any recommendations for a smallish US cleaner?
Jay
———————————————————
I used to have a smallish L & R — but I gave it to a friend 12 years ago — and he is still using it.
Some of the units coming out of Asia right now are pretty good.
And less expensive.
Things to look for, IMO —
SS reservoir and construction
Analog (mechanical dial for timer), if possible — digital controls are OK — but will fail much sooner than analog dials
Heat is not necessary — and may lead to premature failure if the heating unit goes out
And...the highest transducer solid state power output — that means more effective cleaning power
No plastic reservoirs — get a good one — not one made for jewelry and such
Prices are around $100 — give or take $40.
eBay, Amazon, etc...check the ratings and compare features
Average size is a gallon — some are smaller, some larger
Asian brands, L&R, Branson, etc..
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred, just what I was looking for. This will help with cleaning bike parts as well.
Jay
Fred..Branson i just started using is analog..been dipping in basket ..in stainless reservoir with 50/50...will try out glass jar method with 50/50 ...after i use it for couple more cleanings,,just having a problem in my mind how US will clean something in a glass jar inside a stainless reservoir..US i have can do multiple minutes...20+ at one setting..will give update in future,,great sight for answers,,,thanks to all..Joe
Quote from: joe k on February 17, 2019, 03:14:10 AM
Fred..Branson i just started using is analog..been dipping in basket ..in stainless reservoir with 50/50...will try out glass jar method with 50/50 ...after i use it for couple more cleanings,,just having a problem in my mind how US will clean something in a glass jar inside a stainless reservoir..US i have can do multiple minutes...20+ at one setting..will give update in future,,great sight for answers,,,thanks to all..Joe
The nature of an ultrasonic cleaner is to use electrical solid state transducers to develop a "sonic" (sound wave field) within the tank.
The sonic vibration and the cleaner — gets into every tiny crevice of a part, to clean it.
The transducers are in the bottom of the tank — and the "cavitation effect" goes "through" anything within the liquid reservoir — glass, plastic, metal — makes no difference.
Professional watch and clockmakers generally use glass beakers suspended above the bottom since the bottom is where the transducers are producing the most sonic cavitation — and there is always a possibility of a jar breaking if placed directly on the bottom. I have never been concerned about this — and have never experienced a breakage in 15 years.
If you have large parts such as large side plates or large Senator rings — try using a good sealing baggie filled with Simple Green and no air pockets. It will clean perfectly.
Some folks use a locking "tea infuser" for tiny parts dipped into a wide mouth jar of cleaning solution — remove — rinse with water — dip into isopropyl alchohol to displace the water — then lightly blow dry. The parts come out sparkling and ready to reassemble. I do not do this because I find it tedious and unnecessary. But it does work.
For reusing dirty cleaning solutions — just filter them through a gold coffee filter back into another container — then reuse.
There are many routes to the same destination — just experiment with what works for you.
Best,
Fred
Thanks again FRED..NOW I CAN CAN GET SOME SLEEP..BEEN WONDERING ABOUT THAT SINCE LAST POST..NOW ALL MY QUESTIONS HAVE BEEN ANSWERED..gonna do some parts in jars tommorrow...Joe..
Hi guys, I've learned a ton of info from this thread and I'm grateful to all who added input!
I'm in the market for one and thought I'd run one by you, but I won't be using the heater:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5TG2SJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1
If you guys recommend a different one I'm all ears, I'm here to learn, thanks, Darin
Quote from: Darin Crofton on February 17, 2019, 06:08:31 AM
Hi guys, I've learned a ton of info from this thread and I'm grateful to all who added input!
I'm in the market for one and thought I'd run one by you, but I won't be using the heater:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5TG2SJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1
If you guys recommend a different one I'm all ears, I'm here to learn, thanks, Darin
Exact one I was looking at... ;D
Should work...
Best,
Fred
Exact one I was looking at... ;D
[/quote]
Great minds think alike ;D
Quote from: foakes on February 17, 2019, 06:20:19 AM
Should work...
Best,
Fred
Thank you, Fred!
The one with the analog/mechanical controls would be nice. Probably last longer than digital.
Never run the cleaner without filling the tub to the required level. Without the mass of the liquid to absorb the sonic waves the transducer will vibrate itself to death in a matter of minutes.
The biggest problem I have is leaking jars. I have a small one-liter unit so normal mason jars do not fit well. Instead I use small screw-top jars from baby food, capers, pimentos and such. Solvents destroy the plastic seal on jars and they start leaking.
Also, it doesn't seem to matter much if the jar is floating.
-steve
Quote from: Darin Crofton on February 17, 2019, 06:08:31 AM
Hi guys, I've learned a ton of info from this thread and I'm grateful to all who added input!
I'm in the market for one and thought I'd run one by you, but I won't be using the heater:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5TG2SJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3OOOH8WJV7B82&psc=1
If you guys recommend a different one I'm all ears, I'm here to learn, thanks, Darin
I would stay away from digital US cleaners. The dial model is much better.
Joe
Fred ...when you put reel housing in us..what solution do you use..as not to harm paint or emblems on penn spinners ..or any other reel housings..?..be fine in basket...or find big enough jar..?Joe
On Quicks with a wrinkle flat paint finish — just (4) minutes in Simple Green 50/50 with water — no more.
For any glossy painted surfaces (Mitchell, Penn, Shakes, and others) — the strongest and safest is Dawn dish soap & hot water — Simple Green will dull the surface of glossy, smooth finish parts — and it will not come back. Toothbrush & Qtips after crud is softened up.
All badging on Quicks, Penns, Alcedo, etc. — are burnished to a shine with a clean fine wire wheel of brass or steel — safety glasses are a must when using a Dremel and a wire wheel.
No plastics in Simple Green, or anything stronger — they will be visually ruined.
My habit is — when in doubt, just use Dawn HD Dish soap with hot water to start — and soak overnight. And no Ultrasonic Cleaner.
All I need to do is loosen the greasy, dried on crud — then clean to original by hand.
Sometimes a good soak overnight — then finish up with a fresh batch of hot water and Dawn in the US cleaner.
Ultrasonic cleaners are not Silver Bullets for everything — they are a tool that under experienced conditions will save us a ton of time and tedious effort — and we can work on the rest of the reel, other reels, or have a cup of coffee.
We all will ruin a few parts with US cleaners, initially...
So experiment, be careful and wise with your precious parts, and learn what works safely — and what does not work so well.
Best,
Fred
Got it ..thanks
Quote from: foakes on February 16, 2019, 06:23:49 PM
I can disassemble a Penn conventional completely in 5 minutes, put the badly greased metal parts into lacquer thinner for 20 minutes, then put the metal parts into SG or Purple in a Mason jar for 8 minutes in the US cleaner, along with the crank and Bakelite plates in a separate jar of SG also in the US cleaner reservoir — rinse, dry — and reassemble, lube, and tune. Whole process may take 45 minutes for a complete. And this is more than a clean and relube — it is a full job inside and out.
Best,
Fred
I've got to give you credit, Fred, you are good! I can't put one of these Cardinals, after disassembly & thorough part cleaning, lubed & back together in 45 minutes. :o I obviously need to get more efficient. :D
Quote from: Midway Tommy on February 18, 2019, 05:16:51 PM
Quote from: foakes on February 16, 2019, 06:23:49 PM
I can disassemble a Penn conventional completely in 5 minutes, put the badly greased metal parts into lacquer thinner for 20 minutes, then put the metal parts into SG or Purple in a Mason jar for 8 minutes in the US cleaner, along with the crank and Bakelite plates in a separate jar of SG also in the US cleaner reservoir — rinse, dry — and reassemble, lube, and tune. Whole process may take 45 minutes for a complete. And this is more than a clean and relube — it is a full job inside and out.
Best,
Fred
I've got to give you credit, Fred, you are good! I can't put one of these Cardinals, after disassembly & thorough part cleaning, lubed & back together in 45 minutes. :o I obviously need to get more efficient. :D
That is a beautiful job you did on that "4", Tommy —
I cannot put together a Cardinal that fast either, sometimes a DAM Quick close to that — but with the care I take on restores including examination and fine tuning — it is more like 90 minutes on Quicks.
I was just being foolishly boastful about how rapidly I could do a Penn LB, or similar. Penn conventionals are easy compared to spinners. I could likely do one in 30 minutes, if necessary.
Now, fancy Shimano bait-runner, rear drag spinners are better left to guys like philaroman. They have 3 times the parts for no apparent reason, many are made of Tupperware, and parts are fragile and easily ruined upon disassembly if they were already damaged.
The work you do on the Zebco's, ABU"s, Mitchell's, and other quality golden age spinners is nothing short of inspiring, Sir!
My goal for today is to build (6) DQ Microlite 265's from scratch — shovel a couple tons of snow for 2 hours mid-day, if the sun holds — then start on (3) Penn spinners for a friend that need a full service disassembly, cleaning, new drags maybe, and salt ready
Best,
Fred
Slow and steady wins the race, I say that because I slow... ;) ;D
Joe
Hey Fred, I switched to dawn, cheaper, and heat, and it worked great to quickly clean the guts of a box of parts reels I bought (then sorted Fred style into plano boxes :)
when you use thinner in the cleaner, are you capping the jar ?
Quote from: thorhammer on February 18, 2019, 10:42:50 PM
Hey Fred, I switched to dawn, cheaper, and heat, and it worked great to quickly clean the guts of a box of parts reels I bought (then sorted Fred style into plano boxes :)
when you use thinner in the cleaner, are you capping the jar ?
I don't think it is a good idea to ever cap a jar, John — especially thinners...
Ran out of Dawn one day last year — borrowed some of the wife's Joy dish soap.
It did half the job and took twice as long.
Dawn actually has double the grease cutting ability of most other dish soaps.
Best,
Fred
noted...my fishing partner owns an industrial cleaner business, catering to the metal working industry (that's him with me in avatar). I helped him set up his plant and formulate some really good grease-breaking formulas some years ago targeting my industry, which has a lot of high-set point waxes in formulae like candeililla, carnauba, paraffin, cerasynt, etc., plus high emulsified / suspended solids. Takes both heat and chemistry to break. I'm going to try some of that too..said box of parts has a few with dreaded black tar yet....
Have not tried Freds thinner in the jar. ( going to though) I am having good results in my cleaner using simple green at 1 part SG to 8 parts water and using heat. That is on metal parts with no paint.
The ultra sonic cleaner sure saves on the elbow grease. And cleans bearings extremely well.
When I first started using the ultra sonic I used Dawn. The simple green at 1 part sg to 8 parts water works better than the Dawn.
anybody still using napatha in a jar in us...local hardware store has 4 -1gallon cans on clearance for 5.00 a can ...plus paint thinner mineral sprits ..1 gal cans ..5.00..wondering if i should grab a couple..?..what do you think? deal or no deal..
Great deal for the $. I have been using naptha after a soak in mineral spirits. I understand naptha dries faster and with no residue. I use break cleaner from an aerosol can to "blow" out the spirits before a soak in naptha. It seems spirits and naptha get milky if I do not rinse out the spirits first. I do not use this often but primarily use Simple Green cut with water. Most of the time that is all that is needed. Bearing always get the mineral spirits and naptha treatment. I am learning and open to change my methods.
ive just been soaking bearings in napatha in us cleaner....spin drying with little heat from gun ..then drop them in a shot glass filled with tsi 321 for a little bit...remove from 321..let sit couple more minutes after removal on piecce of cardboard and reinstall...seems to work well..any comments if thats not right..should i be doing mineral spirits also?please leave reply..thanks joe
Lots of great info here folks. I ordered a US machine and will use it next week to do an overhaul of 5 Penn 114H reels that I have. Question........ are the red side plates ok to put in the US? I know plastic is not suppose to go in, but I think they are some sort of composite.
I'm thinking just about everything on those old work horse reels should be able to go in. Planning to use a Dawn degreaser that I've used for other projects.
Thanks in advance for any input,
John
Those plates are constructed of Bakelite —
If doing production work for charters or skippers — I just put the plates in a baggie, sealed to get the air out, then filled with 50/50 simple green and hot water. Drop it in the US cleaner — no more than 8-10 minutes — rinse and reassemble. These plates are generally gouged, chipped, or discolored already, anyway.
If a restore for a client, or myself — I wipe out as much grease as possible with paper towels and Q-Tips — then soak overnight in a mixture of Dawn HD dish soap and hot water — then (5) minutes in the US cleaner with a 50/50 SG to water — rinse and reassemble.
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred.......... appreciate it!
I'm thinking there is nothing on the 114H that can't go in the US. Is that correct? What about the handles? These reels are early 1980's.
Thanks again,
John
Right,
Handle knobs are Bakelite also —
I put them in the simple green — just like the sideplates.
Just think of the US cleaner as a scrub brush that gets into every tiny microscopic nook and cranny.
Just a tool — not a cleaner.
The types of cleaning solutions that are used are the determining factor in whether or not a part gets cleaned — stained — melted — or ruined.
Best,
Fred
Your the best Fred..!!