(In your opinion) At what point does one need to switch from, for example: a regular fuji DPS style reel seat, to a heavy duty reel seat, or one with metal hoods? Have you ever seen a standard reel seat fail under load? If so how?
The hoods crack, but it takes a lot of force. There are fuji DPS seats on my Trevala rods and I've winched on them about as hard as I dare with 80 lb braid. If I were to build a spinner to throw poppers at larger tuna I might switch to an ALPS all-aluminum seat. There are seats with graphite barrels and heavy aluminum rings which are quite sturdy and save a bit of weight if it's a rod you'll be handling all day. I stay away from the graphite hoods- they call them HD; they're not. I have one on a Shimano rod right now (stock) that I have to tear down and replace becasue it split. Stainless hoods on lighter stuff and billet aluminum on trolling rods is the way I roll. Just my 0.02, everyone will have an opinion. DPSD 22 or 24 is quite strong and is unlikely to fail in a casting situation. It's in trolling with drags set heavy where a pelagic may go the other way in a hurry that puts so much stress on it. There's little give in a rod holder of a moving boat vs. in your hands.
Makes sense. I'm looking to try to build a rod for reef fish/grouper, and was trying to figure out if the extra strength is needed. I have never fished offshore (and frankly haven't fished from a boat much in general in the past 15 years) so I completely lack any experience in this area, and gotta ask dumb questions.
That's a completely valid question. I've caught YFT, grouper and AJ's with no issues on the trevala's. Goliath Grouper is another story altogether tho.
IMHO, consumers associate aluminum reel seats with quality, and since good looking aluminum reel seats are pretty cheap wholesale, there is often more profit in sticking them on rods that are worse off for the choice.
As long as the line is not far from the blank at the point where it joins the reel, the load on the reel seat is primarily along the length of the rod. You are basically pulling the reel into the front hood. The most important thing if you are worried about load is to install the reel seat so that the threaded end is on the butt side, so that the most rigid side is taking the load. The next most important thing is that you get a good fit between the hood and the foot, because the foot is going to try to shift forward under load, which has the same effect as backing off the threaded hood. The reel gets loose and starts shifting around when you try to wind under load.
IN my experience, there are more problems with aluminum reel seat hoods not fitting well, the reel shifts forward and starts getting loose during a fight. "Graphite" (fiber reinforced nylon) flexes a bit and conforms well. Plus, graphite hoods won't chew up the reel foot. And of course corrosion on the seat and reel is much less of a problem with graphite. Aluminum wins over graphite when it comes to resisting UV degradation over the long run. If you store rods outdoors and exposed to the sun, this can make a difference.
Once the reel gets taller (like a big conventional or any spinning reel) there is a greater possibility of levering the reel out of the seat. This is where the greater elasticity and lower breaking strength works against graphite reel seats. But having said that, a heavy duty graphite seat will take you pretty far. Pulling against 30lbs drag with a tall spinner or conventional would make me want to err on the side of safety, because if that reel exits the seat under high load, things could get ugly real fast.
If you go graphite, and the seat does not have a locking ring, Fuji provides these thin locking rings separately. Not needed for lighter setups, but I like them, and use them more and more.
When it comes to tightening down the reel on the seat, with aluminum seats you are sort of stuck cranking down pretty hard, as the fit of the foot to the inside of the hood is rarely optimal, and the materials will not be flexing much. For graphite seats, you just need to tighten enough to get a good grip. The extra tightening just puts more stress on the hood.
If you go with aluminum, you have to pay attention to the fit of the hoods with any of the reels that you might use. Pay attention to the outside diameter, and stay away from oddball gimmick designs (I am looking at you Alps Triangle :) )
The heavy duty graphite Fujis have much stronger hoods than the standard models, but they might not come in a small enough diameter for your purposes. The hoods are pretty large too, don't know if it would make issues with a gripping a spinning rod in your hand. It probably would not look as cool, so there is that.
FWIIW, If you are going to pull under high load from a boat, and presumably will not be casting much with light weight, it doesn't make a lot of sense using a spinner, unless that is part of the added challenge.
-J
My PE8 spin jig rod, set up to fish 100lb braid at high drag, uses a Fuji DPS.
:) I agree the fastest way to wreck a hood is a ill fitting reel foot . If you have a single seat nut that refuses to stay put , a few wraps of tape will
hold it .
I have no problems with spinning reel seats leaving a rod , i always have these vice grips holding it on !!!!!!!
(https://alantani.com/gallery/36/17471_17_01_22_10_40_28_3615064.jpeg)
Thank you Dave, for giving me the background info I need to make informed decisions. My preference for spinners is... Well it's a preference.
Joe, I used to do competitive judo. My grip strength likely needs no further introduction. But I don't wanna spend the energy on building a rod to have the thing at the bottom of the stack of work be the thing to break.
So it sounds like a reasonable answer might be to just go with aluminum hoods?
Anyone have experience with these?
https://mudhole.com/products/channel-lock-reel-seats-with-aluminum-hoods?variant=34374197117061
I don't wanna spend an arm and a leg on a rod I likely won't use super often, but I also don't wanna put the effort into building a rod around a questionable seat. Surely there's a happy medium?
isn't DPS already "happy medium"? ...i.e., cushioned steel:
thin steel outside keeps the graphite from cracking due to stress or side impact
graphite inside provides better fit, keeps weight down & doesn't scratch alloy feet
also, rigid graphite keeps thin steel from deforming too easily
What's the planned reel and how much drag to get the job done?
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 17, 2022, 01:13:58 PM
(In your opinion) At what point does one need to switch from, for example: a regular fuji DPS style reel seat, to a heavy duty reel seat, or one with metal hoods? Have you ever seen a standard reel seat fail under load? If so how?
In your initial question there lies an anomaly, "Fuji DPS style", as there are huge differences in the quality of materials used in Fuji components and all the many mimic products. Have often and repeatedly seen imitations fail, while it is truly rare to see a genuine article fail.
We build heavy surf rods specifically for spinning type reels, aimed at sharks over 200kgs (440lbs), and never yet had a genuine Fuji DPS fail, the only concession we make is by adding the Fuji Lock nut arrangement to remove the problem of reel nuts coming a little lose, which is most often the root cause of failures in non-genuine articles. Even inthe most extreme cases over the years of building, we have occasionally used the Fuji DPS-H, for heavier duty boat rods.
Quote from: boon on January 18, 2022, 02:21:03 AM
What's the planned reel and how much drag to get the job done?
I'm torn between using it for my penn 750SS in which case it won't see more than 20# (and I already know a fuji DPS seat is fine with 20#) or being used for my LT100 even though that already has a rod, in which case it could see 50# in theory but I'm not sure I'll be the one to take it there. I'm sure that clears it up.
Quote from: philaroman on January 18, 2022, 01:49:24 AM
isn't DPS already "happy medium"? ...i.e., cushioned steel:
thin steel outside...
Is that steel? I always just assumed it was painted graphite. Well I'm an idiot. We knew that.
Jeri, you guys are nuts down there. Wading out to cast for 400# sharks. In waters with 400# sharks. But I guess theres some comfort to be had knowing you're throwing 200yds out to find them.
I only have ever had one reel seat fail, and it was on a quality rod and it failed from the tremendous amount of leverage that threading down (over tightening) to tighten the reel caused one of the clamps to deform and crack. I would have to throw out there that mechanically the pressure put on a reel seat via the screw plus the "wedge" action of the reel foot into the seat itself is probably a magnitude above what the seat would ever experience by the pull of a fish even with the leverage of the reel/reel stand?? - john
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 18, 2022, 04:22:38 AM
Jeri, you guys are nuts down there. Wading out to cast for 400# sharks. In waters with 400# sharks. But I guess theres some comfort to be had knowing you're throwing 200yds out to find them.
The thing is that occasionally one is hooked that doesn't wish an inspection of the beach, which is when we start to 'straight stick', the shark, by pointing the tip towards the shark, winding up the drag to maximum, and start walking back up the beach. Loads on the reel seat then are massive - up to 40-50lbs straight on the reel feet. If it doesn't break under those kinds of loads, then unlikely to when the rod is used in a conventional manner - so for us Fuji DPS win hands down.
I'm currently building a pair of heavy boat spinners for my buddy / fishing partner, to use on AJ's and grouper and whatever else. 50-80 lb blanks with a 950SSV and 850SSV with 100 and 80 braid respectively. I only use DPSD seats (the lined hood is worth it) unless building a trolling rod for 50lb and up. I expect no issues. I have DPSM's on factory rods with 6/0's, winching grouper and AJ- no issues. Not that things can't fail, they certainly do, but having bottom fished offshore with them for 25 years or better, jigging, bait, and bailing dolphin / cobia / wahoo, I just haven't seen a failure and have broken 80 lb braid leaning on it, without any sweat off the reel seat. I have large hands and still prefer the profile the profile of the DPSD with a spinner; I found the profile of the thick grapite hoods bulky to hand. My 0.02. If you can add the locking ring, it is def a good idea. As Dave points out, you'd like the seat uplocking for fighting, but bouncing around on a boat ride can actually work like a hammer drill and back the nut off. I check all rigs for loose screws and nuts before and after a trip, and still we see backoff on occoasion. We have a longer bouncier ride than you, though- 65 miles out. Had a 9500SS come off the rod in the t-top once plowing through ten footers. Fortunately the 80lb braid just swung it at me instead of losing the reel.
Quote from: Jeri on January 18, 2022, 09:58:11 AM
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 18, 2022, 04:22:38 AM
Jeri, you guys are nuts down there. Wading out to cast for 400# sharks. In waters with 400# sharks. But I guess theres some comfort to be had knowing you're throwing 200yds out to find them.
The thing is that occasionally one is hooked that doesn't wish an inspection of the beach, which is when we start to 'straight stick', the shark, by pointing the tip towards the shark, winding up the drag to maximum, and start walking back up the beach. Loads on the reel seat then are massive - up to 40-50lbs straight on the reel feet. If it doesn't break under those kinds of loads, then unlikely to when the rod is used in a conventional manner - so for us Fuji DPS win hands down.
This is good to know. I've been using aluminum reel seats on my Surf builds, thinking that they will just last longer. But, if I don't take my reel off after every trip to the beach and rinse them, the corrosion will set in quickly and weld my reel to the seat. This happens after only two or three outings, I learned quick. Aside from that I still prefer the aluminum for now. I have purchased a few of the heavy duty Fuji DPS and I do like what I see so I am going to give them a try. I didn't know that you could get a locking nut, that makes it much better! They really should come with it. Thank you Jeri for the informative answer.
The Fuji Lock Nut part is LO/AN, available in 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 & 24 sizes. It sometimes needs to have space beyond the threads, to accommodate reels with longer feet - just wind it off the reel seat, fit reel, then locate and wind it on.
This thread is real informative. 'Till now, I haven't paid attention to reel seats. Never had any problems, though(yet...).
Another time proven insurance method to prevent rings from backing off, even slightly is to wrap some tape around the ring and even the reel foot, by stretching it some it adds a lot of confidence at almost no cost.
An ounce of prevention is worth all the time and expenses to insure your success..........🎣🤷♂️
Agree with Greg. This is a great thread. Lots of useful experience shared without a bunch of attitude.
We don't think about reel seats enough. The common reel seat/foot design that we are used to is remarkably inefficient, especially for conventional reels. A classic example of thinking inside the box. Cradle reels/rods are too much overkill in the other direction.
Here is the Fuji lock ring add-on:
https://www.fujitackle.eu/fuji_lock_nuts (https://www.fujitackle.eu/fuji_lock_nuts)
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on January 19, 2022, 07:40:57 PM
Agree with Greg. This is a great thread. Lots of useful experience shared without a bunch of attitude.
We don't think about reel seats enough. The common reel seat/foot design that we are used to is remarkably inefficient, especially for conventional reels. A classic example of thinking inside the box. Cradle reels/rods are too much overkill in the other direction.
Here is the Fuji lock ring add-on:
https://www.fujitackle.eu/fuji_lock_nuts (https://www.fujitackle.eu/fuji_lock_nuts)
-J
So you're saying that a design that dates back to the days where reels were being lashed to a branch or stick of bamboo with almost no change
isn't the best solution? But if I get a wild hare moment I can attach my 130 year old hendryx pillar reel to a modern rod with no issue. Surely that's more important right?
Another option for you. My bud built me a heavy (50#) spin rod for tuna/wahoo with an Alps Forecast heavy duty graphite seat. Has not been through the ringer yet but feels more than adequate. Comes in 22 & 24 sizes and price is right ($5.39 on Charkbait).
Quote from: sciaenops on January 19, 2022, 09:45:42 PM
Another option for you. My bud built me a heavy (50#) spin rod for tuna/wahoo with an Alps Forecast heavy duty graphite seat. Has not been through the ringer yet but feels more than adequate. Comes in 22 & 24 sizes and price is right ($5.39 on Charkbait).
reel s
Do you have a link for those seats ?
QuoteQuoteDo you have a link for those seats ?
https://alpsforecast.com/products/gear-components/gear-reel-seats/gear-graphite-reel-seats/forecast-extra-heavy-duty-graphite-reel-seat/
American Tackle also makes some nice reel seats, worth a look anyway
Word of caution, I have experienced a number of non-Fuji reel seats made with lesser grades of graphite reinforced plastic. Occasionally, I need to just sand out the bore of the reel seats, and do this on the wood lathe with carborundum paper. With Fuji reel seats, it take time just to skim out 0.5mm, but with a lot of the others it almost melts away, there is so little substance to them, it is only seconds to skim out 0.5mm or more. Am Tac, were one of the lesser makes.
Just a note of caution.
Quote from: Jeri on January 20, 2022, 05:54:47 AM
Word of caution, I have experienced a number of non-Fuji reel seats made with lesser grades of graphite reinforced plastic. Occasionally, I need to just sand out the bore of the reel seats, and do this on the wood lathe with carborundum paper. With Fuji reel seats, it take time just to skim out 0.5mm, but with a lot of the others it almost melts away, there is so little substance to them, it is only seconds to skim out 0.5mm or more. Am Tac, were one of the lesser makes.
Just a note of caution.
Probably related to the percentage of fiber, and type of fiber used. Less fiber means that when heated by abrasion, there is too much soft nylon and not enough rigidity from the added fiber to remove material. Everything gets squishy.
Adding carbon and glass fiber does not make nylon stronger so much as it makes it more rigid. There is a tradeoff. By adding more fiber, the part is less elastic, but more brittle. The first task is to get the right blend for a given application. The second task is quality control. Getting the temps just right, not keeping the plastic melted too long before injecting it, getting all the gates right so that the mold fills quickly and evenly, and ensuring that the part cools and shrinks evenly without embedding stress. The more fiber added, the greater the cost of the raw materials, and the more difficult the process to turn out good parts consistently. So a lesser product might use less fiber than would otherwise be desirable.
I am glad that Fuji is not the only game in town. It keeps the pressure on them to stay on the ball. But they have been a leader in terms of innovation, quality, and sales volume. Molding high performance plastic parts is an unforgiving business. I haven't strayed from Fuji, and will not look elsewhere to save a buck or two on a reel seat. Not on the payroll, just a satisfied customer.
Regarding graphite hoods with a thin aluminum outer layer: If you just took the aluminum part and tried to deform it, it would move pretty easily. I am a bit skeptical on the value, but I will defer to folks with firsthand experience.
-J
Found out a good number of years ago, that cost savings on rod components is a short road. Have been a fairly loyal customer to Fuji for over 16 years now, and they have never let me down in the actual performance of the product - does what it says on the packet............ :)
Have looked at brief forays into alternatives, and found them to be wanting in comparison.
The Alps reference from sciaenops looks pretty tough(wonder what G-22 means), darn expensive though.
G means Greg, and 22 is the D in MM
:)
Quote from: Gfish on January 20, 2022, 07:25:52 PM
The Alps reference from sciaenops looks pretty tough(wonder what G-22 means), darn expensive though.
Looks like a mimic of the Fuji DPS-H that has been around for a long time.
QuoteQuoteLooks like a mimic of the Fuji DPS-H that has been around for a long time
This. Like I said, I have no experience with their graphite components, but have plenty of Batson/Alps metal stuff on my rods. Very good quality/value imo. Time will tell on my spinner....
QuoteInsert Quote
The Alps reference from sciaenops looks pretty tough(wonder what G-22 means), darn expensive though.
?? at $6?
Ok. Looked at the wrong #. $6 seems great if it's as tuff as it looks.
bought 4 or 5 alps tip tops @ 20% off, but 1 had defect -- bump/deformity on actual ceramic ring :o
considering low price, not worth returning, but so much for 20% savings... still good price/quality for remaining tip tops
HOWEVER, a guide is easily examined before and/or replaced after install... would HATE same scenario w/ seat
Not gonna lie if fuji had a metal reel seat i likely woulda just ordered it without starting this wonderful thread. It was moving away from fuji that drew the question to begin with.
Have you looked at Lakeland reel seats ? They come brass and Aluminum .
All three of my Black Hole spinners (s801h, ccs86n, ccs80g rods) have Fuji graphite reel seats and (Gosa 10k, TP 14k, Mak 20k reels) and I suspect I use them with higher drag than most with no issues.
Apart from all the surf rods we have built for the last 16 years or more. Looked at some of my older personal rods the other day, back when we did a lot more boat fishing - again all Fuji of various denominations - what stuck out were a pair of stand-up sticks that were truly 50lb class which we used up in Angola for Tarpon and Marlin from the boat - both built with Fuji DPS-H and they were paired with Shimano Tiagra 30 2 speed - we took some huge fish on those rods with massive drag, Tarpon over 200lbs and Marlin up to 500lbs, never an issue with the reel seats, and that was 20 years ago.
Looked further into the really dusty stuff, found the first rod I even built, and noticed a DPS reel seat with cushions, and those nasty lumi-shock guides - that was over 40 years ago.
You never really appreciate the value of quality products until you have experienced them standing the test of time.
You get Tarpon down your way?
While we got this informative thread going does anyone have experience with fuji LDB series guides on an offshore spinner? As opposed to a double footed guide.
if you don't have, here's the catalog (pg.48; Ti - pg.37):
https://www.fujitackle.eu/flippingbook/48/#zoom=z
Quote from: MarkT on January 22, 2022, 04:57:37 AM
You get Tarpon down your way?
They get them in most waters from northern Angola right up to Guinea Bisset. We used to fish for them in the waters around two rivers south of Luanda, the Kwanza and the Rio Longa. Both are breeding areas for Tarpon, and Rio Longa system is a known nursery, with fish from small fry right up to 8-10kgs, when they leave the river system they take up a more marine life style, migrating up and down the coast according to season. Some very big fish have been had from the Kwanza - up to 240+kgs. My wife and I were the first anglers to catch them in the Rio Longa area after the civil war ended - 20 odd years ago.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 22, 2022, 05:16:51 PM
While we got this informative thread going does anyone have experience with fuji LDB series guides on an offshore spinner? As opposed to a double footed guide.
We use KT style single leg guides with most of our hybrid design systems for surf rods, especially in the smaller sizes as running guides after a reduction set of LC guides. We find the KT plenty strong enough and don't need the extra weight of LDB.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 22, 2022, 05:16:51 PM
While we got this informative thread going does anyone have experience with fuji LDB series guides on an offshore spinner? As opposed to a double footed guide.
None of my heavy duty spin rods have even one single foot guide on them.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 22, 2022, 05:16:51 PM
While we got this informative thread going does anyone have experience with fuji LDB series guides on an offshore spinner? As opposed to a double footed guide.
Built some specific heavy duty spinning rods for some guys in Australia that were spinning big lures for Yellowtail from the rocks. We found a suitable blank at the time, and then experimented with various guide configurations. First attempt was full KW two leg guides as the guys were using 50lb+ braid, and while the rod did work, it had some issues, we then took onboard a build on the same blank that was full KR concept, with KW guides first, then KT for the running guides, and that seemed to liberate a lot more power and distance performance from the blank. Ultimately we tried an idea we use on our long surf rods, by switching out the KW guides for smaller LC guides, just 3 of them, and retained the KT running guides - worked like a dream - no line wrapping events around the first guide and plenty of distance for throwing lures in the 6-8oz range - but looked unorthodox. Gave the three options to the clients down in Australia, and two took the KW + KT options, one took the KW throughout, and just one took the LC+KT option. He was the most pleased with the performance results. The key step was changing the 2 leg running guides to single leg guides, as they seemed to 'find' power in the blank that had been hidden by the two leg guides.
Comes back to the old problem of what looks orthodox and conventional, compared to the un-orthodox - a bit like spiral wrapped rods.
Double foot guides make a dead spot in the blank. Has anyone ever had a single foot guide break (except by stepping on it)?
So I bought my parts. I got an ATX 30-50# live bait rod on sale half price. I went with fuji MN series reducers (25-16-12-8) and did decide to go with sz6 LDB runners and a UX tip with as 8 ring. I got a fuji deluxe reel seat and ordered the locking ring.
Now I gotta decide grip material. Everyone seems to say no to cork in this range, so I guess its EVA or paracord and shrink wrap?
Also the rod I got is 7' but I figure I want it a bit shorter. Is it legit to hacksaw 6-8" off the butt of this thing?
How many guides total? Guessing 2 runners?
Quote from: boon on January 28, 2022, 12:25:29 AM
How many guides total? Guessing 2 runners?
However many seems appropriate when I lay it out. I bought 4 I'm expecting to use probably 3, which may turn to two. I suppose it depends if I trim the blank. We'll see.
Regarding cutting off some blank:
Agree that bottom is (nearly) always the right choice.
They don't always make a different mandrel for every blank, so sometimes a shorter blank is just a long blank that was made shorter.
Having said that, you are cutting from the backbone side of the blank. Spinners, typically have the first guide farther from the butt, and farther from the blank, so they already don't load the butt section as well, especially as the blank gets shorter. If this is a fish fighting rod, you might want to see how much backbone would be left. If the action is already moderate, you could turn it into a bendy rod. You want a long enough butt section to act as a high drag shock absorber and lifting tool, when you have the angle just right.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on January 28, 2022, 03:15:46 AM
Regarding cutting off some blank:
Agree that bottom is (nearly) always the right choice...
Sorta what I figured. It seems most the bend of the rod is in the top foot of the blank, and I assume that this portion is needed for it to perform as designed. But ive learned by now to question all assumptions in areas where I lack firsthand experience. Thank you.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 28, 2022, 03:23:25 PM
Quote from: jurelometer on January 28, 2022, 03:15:46 AM
Regarding cutting off some blank:
Agree that bottom is (nearly) always the right choice...
Sorta what I figured. It seems most the bend of the rod is in the top foot of the blank, and I assume that this portion is needed for it to perform as designed. But ive learned by now to question all assumptions in areas where I lack firsthand experience. Thank you.
Did you get my PM? Also- before you whack the blank, think about how you'll fish it. If you're using bait, I expect you have to use circle hooks like we do....will the resulting action help or hamper that? If you're jigging and need to set the hook rather than reeling tight on a circle, should you cut 3 and 3, or not at all ( I prefer a 7' doing this, I can get more sweep for jigging and hookset due to longer radius, also helps A LOT getting around outboards when anchored, vs. the stubby 5'8" jigging rods popular now). There are a lot of days where we work to stay in the boat period, and not going out the tuna door on the transom to clear engines. Food for thought.
Quote from: thorhammer on January 28, 2022, 03:56:21 PM
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 28, 2022, 03:23:25 PM
Quote from: jurelometer on January 28, 2022, 03:15:46 AM
Regarding cutting off some blank:
Agree that bottom is (nearly) always the right choice...
Sorta what I figured. It seems most the bend of the rod is in the top foot of the blank, and I assume that this portion is needed for it to perform as designed. But ive learned by now to question all assumptions in areas where I lack firsthand experience. Thank you.
Did you get my PM? Also- before you whack the blank, think about how you'll fish it. If you're using bait, I expect you have to use circle hooks like we do....will the resulting action help or hamper that? If you're jigging and need to set the hook rather than reeling tight on a circle, should you cut 3 and 3, or not at all ( I prefer a 7' doing this, I can get more sweep for jigging and hookset due to longer radius, also helps A LOT getting around outboards when anchored, vs. the stubby 5'8" jigging rods popular now). There are a lot of days where we work to stay in the boat period, and not going out the tuna door on the transom to clear engines. Food for thought.
I did. And thank you, useful info as always.
I guess in my mind I'm just thinking the torque equation (the same 50# fish feels heavier on a 7' rod than it does on a 6' rod) which is balanced out by casting considerations on everything else I've built. But this one likely wont do much casting. Didnt think about maneuvering around the prop, etc. Again, no experience here.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 28, 2022, 05:11:10 PM
Quote from: thorhammer on January 28, 2022, 03:56:21 PM
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on January 28, 2022, 03:23:25 PM
Quote from: jurelometer on January 28, 2022, 03:15:46 AM
Regarding cutting off some blank:
Agree that bottom is (nearly) always the right choice...
Sorta what I figured. It seems most the bend of the rod is in the top foot of the blank, and I assume that this portion is needed for it to perform as designed. But ive learned by now to question all assumptions in areas where I lack firsthand experience. Thank you.
Did you get my PM? Also- before you whack the blank, think about how you'll fish it. If you're using bait, I expect you have to use circle hooks like we do....will the resulting action help or hamper that? If you're jigging and need to set the hook rather than reeling tight on a circle, should you cut 3 and 3, or not at all ( I prefer a 7' doing this, I can get more sweep for jigging and hookset due to longer radius, also helps A LOT getting around outboards when anchored, vs. the stubby 5'8" jigging rods popular now). There are a lot of days where we work to stay in the boat period, and not going out the tuna door on the transom to clear engines. Food for thought.
I did. And thank you, useful info as always.
I guess in my mind I'm just thinking the torque equation (the same 50# fish feels heavier on a 7' rod than it does on a 6' rod) which is balanced out by casting considerations on everything else I've built. But this one likely wont do much casting. Didnt think about maneuvering around the prop, etc. Again, no experience here.
Not torque (rotary) so much as plain old leverage, but yes, a seven foot broomstick will give the fish more leverage than a six foot broomstick. But on a real blank, the force required to bend the blank is progressive, so the effect is not always so dramatic with the right technique and th tip section bending out of the lever process. You also need a decent length of stiffer lever, so it is not like trying to lift a brick with a rubber band. Every bending/ unbending when you attempt to lift he fish is mostly wasted energy. You applied and released force, but the fish did not move. So it is more about right sizing the leverage, rather than just minimizing it.
Plus the reasons John mentioned. Length and a bit of stiff butt means you can get around outboards (no bracket please), and a longer stiff butt allows you to control a larger fish next the boat more easily.
Cutting shorter might work for you better, but it might not. It is not guaranteed to be a better fish fighting rod.
Cutting a blank is a crap shoot, sometimes it works but mostly doesn't. With so many blanks to choose from get the length you want I guess that cows already left the barn though. Look on the bright side if it doesn't work out either way you've got a good reason to buy another blank
why cut... why not just put seat 6" higher?
not like it needs to be balanced for repeated/prolonged casting
space components for hand+armpit horizontal comfort... longer, more comfy rear-grip
& you still have a little extra total length to maneuver around "protrusions"
the only reel seats I've had fail, were aluminum.. not under load, but over years, the hoods cracked. Wrapped with A thread and epoxied as a quick fix, ten years ago..
To be fair to aluminum, my 8wt steelhead/salmon fly rod has a heavy aluminum seat, once fell six feet off a cliff trying to climb round to land a fish, whacking the reel on the way down. The reel seat held but the foot tore off the fly reel..
The Fuji imitations save a paltry couple bucks over real Fuji so I've never seen a reason to buy them. Original Fuji is what I use on everything except light trout fly rods.. my brother in Australia builds rods that get tested in surf/rock and on boats for tuna, sailfish, sharks etc, with Fuji, never heard of a problem.
+1 on not cutting. I figure the rod designer had an idea in mind when they started and finished, me randomly trimming the blank is unlikely to improve anything..
Seems logical re: cutting the blank. I'll likely leave as is and choke up on the reel seat a bit. I got long goofy arms anyway.