The little Meisselbach Tripart was not expensive in its day. They must have sold a lot of them because there are always many for sale at the auction. The Tripart and the Takapart are very similar. The Takapart is a 100 yard size and the Tripart is an 80 yard size. They are tube reels, meaning the frame and stand is cut from a single piece of tubing. A threaded ring holds the side plates to the frame. They can be quickly disassembled by unscrewing the rings and removing the side plates and spool.
The head plate can be rotated and used with the handle at the top, bottom, front or back. The tail plate can be rotated and locked into place by the ring with the clicker button in any orientation.
Sorry for the photos. This one still had all the grime.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPa.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPa.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPb.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPb.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPc.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPc.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPd.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPd.jpg)
They were made with few changes for almost thirty years. The ones marked
A.F.MEISSELBACH & BRO
NEWARK N.J. USA
are from Gus and William Meissenbach between about 1906 to 1917 The ones marked
A.F.MEISSELBACH MFG.CO.
NEWARK N.J. USA
were made after the company was sold to Otto Heineman in 1917. The ones marked
A.F.MEISSELBACH MFG.CO.
ELYRIA,O,USA
were made from 1921 when the factory was moved to Ohio until the Tripart was discontinued during the depression.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPe.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPe.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPf.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPf.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPg.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPg.jpg)
The design did not change much. The early ones had a clicker spring like the one on the left and later ones (Heineman era) are like the one on the right.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPh.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPh.jpg)
The spool tension cap also changed slightly. Early one on the left and later one on the right.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPi.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPi.jpg)
You usually find the knuckle buster Tripart 580. The Tripart Free-Spool model 581 was introduced some time between 1909 and 1914. In this photo, a Tripart 580 is out of focus in the foreground, a Tripart Free-Spool 581 in the back left, and back right is a larger Takapart Free-Spool 481 Simmons Special (made for Simmons Hardware). In these examples, the Takapart and Tripart differ in the way the friction clutch is activated, although this could be a temporal difference rather than a model difference.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPk.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPk.jpg)
The heart of the clutch is a penny-size eccentric. When the handle is turned backward or when line is playing off the spool the eccentric dogs are retracted.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPn.JPG (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPn.JPG)
When the handle is turned forward the eccentrics are pushed outward and protrude outside the disc.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPo.JPG (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPo.JPG)
The clutch is nestled into a depression in the side of the spool. When the dogs are protruding, they engage two raised stops (bumps) within that depression.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPm.JPG (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPm.JPG)
The clutch has free moving disc with the eccentric dogs attached, sandwiched between the pinion and diamond-shaped piece pressed onto the pinion steel. Moving the disc relative to the pinion and diamond-shaped block actuates the eccentric.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPr.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPr.jpg)
The disc has a wire clip in a perimeter slot. When the pinion is moved the wire clip contacts a post rotating the lower disc forward or backward and engaging or disengaging the clutch. Rotating the pinion by moving the handle forward engages the clutch. Rotating the pinion by moving the handle backward or by pulling line off the spool disengages the clutch.
Very little pressure on the wire clip is needed to rotate the disc and move the eccentric. The wire clip is held in place only by spring friction and can spin around on the disc. So, turning the handle too far backward does no damage. When a fish strikes and abruptly pulls line from the spool the clutch will automatically disengage and long as you do not hold the handle too firmly. If it rotates backward just a few degrees it will disengage. Since the pinion is always meshed with the main gear you cannot really damage them with the clutch.
The 1909 patent can be found here:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjk576Q5fPRAhUOyWMKHRaNAbgQFggfMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpatentimages.storage.googleapis.com%2Fpdfs%2FUS929867.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFHwyH3A_rpD6CQGfl1GV59qhqfPw&sig2=RIox-8JBv-lgpqh5EuEyRg (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjk576Q5fPRAhUOyWMKHRaNAbgQFggfMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpatentimages.storage.googleapis.com%2Fpdfs%2FUS929867.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFHwyH3A_rpD6CQGfl1GV59qhqfPw&sig2=RIox-8JBv-lgpqh5EuEyRg)
Note that the shape of the eccentric is different in the patent and the final product.
-steve
Cool reel Steve...interesting mechanics. 8)
That is the breakdown explanation I have ever seen for one of these reels. I love Meisselbach reels style and complicated, ingenious nature. These little reels exhibit true genius of the maker and you them proud.
Cool clutch mechanism!
Sid
Great writeup!
I too love the Miesselbachs. The varied and somewhat complex mechanical engineering in his reels, provides us with a glipse into the mind of a genius. I surprised that more of his design features did not gain more widespread use.
John
Nice explanation of these great old reels from 100 years ago, Steve.
Even after a century -- the material, engineering, and tolerance quality enables you to restore with just a service and clean up.
If any of you ever need some of these parts -- I found a box of Triparts with near completes, skeletons, and NOS frames, etc. -- in one of the bins.
Problem is, except for cosmetics -- these seldom need any parts -- just TLC to bring them back.
But I have more than a few, if ever needed for the Ohana.
Best,
Fred
I was planning to fish with this. The little wire is pretty badly worn and corroded so I made a new one with some stainless hard wire. It works great but the wire is too thick and does not fully seat itself in the slot. I'll need to find some smaller wire (it's here somewhere) and make another.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPp.JPG (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPp.JPG)
The handle knob is a celluloid plastic that they called "Ivoroid" (faux ivory) back in the day. The brass pin was bent and the plastic was worn at both ends so it felt terrible with a lot of wobble and side play. I ground down the peening on the back of the handle (badly gouging the handle in the process), grabbed the head of the pin with pliers (gouging the pin head and knob in the process) and twisted it out. With the pin straightened, shortened and peened back in place it feels better.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPs.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPs.jpg)
Be careful taking the handle off. Sometimes they are stuck and you see a lot of auction listing where the handle is sheared off. Remove the nut and then unscrew the handle from the main gear post. There is a bit of taper on the threads so it will be really tight. use penetrating oil and heat on the handle arm if necessary. When unscrewing the handle you can put a wrench on the raised portion in the center of the spool to hold it. I feel better removing the pinion and grabbing the main gear by the teeth using a thick piece of red rubber gasket material and pliers.
The free spool in this example is not very good. Maybe ten seconds. When polishing the bearing in the head plate I noticed it is worn. This could be the problem, but it is more likely that the problem is in the design of the clutch. When casting, you have the spool supported by brass bearings on each end. Hopefully, the meshing of the main gear and pinion is keeping the pinion centered on the spool shaft and it is not rubbing the shaft or rubbing the inside of that brass race the clutch sits in. I suspect the main gear is not providing enough support and stabilization of the clutch/pinion and there is some rubbing of the spool shaft going on. I need to paint the shaft with Marks-A-Lot to get a better idea of how much it is rubbing.
I spooled the reel with 100 yards of 18# Dacron. There is room to spare even though it is supposed to be an 80 yard reel. The natural fiber lines these reels were designed for were much thicker than Dacron. Trying to use light mono or braid in these reels may not end well. The gap between the edge of the spool flange and the plates it too large.
The reel was put on my best bamboo stick and test casted. It was disappointing because the Shakespeare Standard Professional Free Spool with the Koph clutch is measurably longer. When the Koph clutch is disengaged the pinion is secured to and spins with the spool so there is nothing to rub on the spool shaft.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20246.15 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20246.15)
The Meisselbach clutch seems fool proof and is not an accident waiting to happen like the Koph clutch. But, I would hate to give up extra distance.
With that said though, this reel and the Shakespeare can both cast a jig tied on a 3/8 ounce weight. The knuckle busters without a clutch need about 5/8 ounces of weight to get the same distance.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPt.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPt.jpg)
The next step is to make a rod with a lighter tip to accommodate the lighter jig.
-steve
Always top notch stuff from you Steve, thanks for sharing.
Sal
Well done, Steve. Great examples, presentation and explanation.
great stuff, lots of fun to read!!!!! ;D
Another one of these free spool triparts arrived in the mail today. I don't know how that happened, but I am soon going to stop drinking and sitting up late.
I took this second reel apart very carefully and looked to see if the little wire loop on the clutch was fitted over the post. It was not. I am pretty sure the wire loop was not fitted over the post in the first reel either. In fact, I initially put it back together with the wire in any random orientation and the clutch worked fine.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPq.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPq.jpg)
When the handle is turned backward the disc and spring would swing around (counterclockwise in the photo), hit the post, put tension on the disc and disengage the clutch. When the handle is turned forward the disc and wire clip would spin around clockwise until it hit something from the other direction and engage the clutch. Since the gear ratio is about 3.4:1, the handle would only have to be turned about a third of a revolution to engage or disengage the clutch.
I knew something was amiss when the wire kept catching on the protruding bit of main gear shaft where it is peened down in the bridge. The clutch still worked fine, but only about a sixth of a handle revolution was needed to engage or disengage the clutch. In the photo you can see a worn spot on the bridge where the spring has been dragging over it for who-knows-how-long. I finally looked at the patent drawings and found the wire loop is supposed to be fitted over the post. The clutch works fine in that configuration too but it reacts to a change in direction much more quickly. There are not many things that can be assembled incorrectly and still work flawlessly.
Speaking of the bridge, notice that is it fitted over some little posts/nubs and then screwed down from the outside. This gives it four points of contact and a more solid connection. Some of the less robust knuckle busters have the bridge attached only by the two screws. Over time, the screws can vibrate loose and if they are not kept really tight you can get some movement in the bridge, the holes in the side plate are soon wallowed out and the problem snowballs. Some even less robust reels (like the early Shakespeare Criterion) do not have a bridge at all and the main gear is held in place only by the pinion and the side plate collar under the handle. You can hear the slop in the main gear when casting, you probably sacrifice distance, and probably wear out the gears prematurely. The differences do not seem to be an evolution in design, but rather a reflection of quality. Some very early high quality reels have a solid bridge while some later cheap reels do not.
-steve
Great post Steve, They're interesting reels - I can't stop looking at the clutch system and wondering how to apply the concept to a silent AR system.
Mike
Please let me know when you figure it out Mike.
So, I degreased the clutch and right side of the spool then scribbled all over it with a Sharpie pen.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPv.JPG (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPv.JPG)
Put it back together and spun the spool for a while. With the lubrication removed you could hear it rubbing.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPu.JPG (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/TPu.JPG)
The rubbing was confined to that area under the pinion and where the clutch met the step at the base of the spool shaft. On reel #2 the worst of the rubbing was a little farther up the shaft under the clutch. The free spin time on the second reel is not any better than the first. It's clear the pinion and clutch is riding on the spool shaft with very little support from the main gear.
I hoped for a panacea but the Tripart may not be it.
-steve
Great post Steve. One thing I like about these old reels is how well they cope with corrosion when there is no aluminium parts.
Mike, I think the anti reverse system you are thinking of is called "friction wheel". Some Avets use it and Banax use it on their SX spin reel. It is silent and more reliable than the silent dog with ears type.
Basto
I'm with you Basto and am not a fan of aluminum, either vintage of modern. I hope the modern aluminum will soon be replaced by plastic/carbon composite. Recently had the edge of an aluminum spool on the newest Shimano eaten through by corrosion due to my neglect. Vintage aluminum spools have to be given special handling if used in saltwater. I had to find this out the hard way too when a 1930's Shakespeare aluminum spool was left for two weeks with wet Dacron line. Another few weeks and the corrosion would have eaten right through the flanges.
-steve
Yes Steve. That is why so many old Penns are still with us and going strong. No aluminium.
I was surprised to see corrosion on my first gen Torque and I thought I looked after it meticulously.
cheers
Basto
Fred'
Have A Meisselbach 581 FREE SPOOL Reel, Fair Cond. Works Well, Would Be A Nice Reel But For Drilled Foot, Peeling End Ring, Damaged Clicker Side Cap. Do You Have These Parts?
Barry
I will check, Barry ...
Best,
Fred
Fred
Are These Photos Adequate, Or Do You Need Something More ?
Thanks
Barry ???
Quote from: gumpie44 on March 22, 2017, 11:43:10 PM
Fred
Are These Photos Adequate, Or Do You Need Something More ?
Thanks
Barry ???
Quote from: gumpie44 on March 09, 2017, 03:29:43 PM
Fred'
Have A Meisselbach 581 FREE SPOOL Reel, Fair Cond. Works Well, Would Be A Nice Reel But For Drilled Foot, Peeling End Ring, Damaged Clicker Side Cap. Do You Have These Parts?
Barry
Fred<
Have Not Heard From You...... Are These Photos OK ? Or Do I Need To Post Different Ones.
Thanks
Barry
Responded to you through your email that they should be close enough -- and I would attempt to match parts from my box of tri-parts -- i will probably send you a little more than you need -- because some of these are different variations.
Plus am also sending the Mitchell 510 parts with duplicates -- and the Daiwa 7250 bag of bones, parts, and bodies.
Best,
Fred
Fred
Thanks For the Fast Reply, Had Some Computer Issues Last Couple Of Weeks.... My Anti- Virus Software Probably Deleted You, Will Advise When Parts Arrive......Need Your Address Again, That's Gone As Well. Sorry For the Mix-up.
Thanks
Barry
I came across this Horton Simplex Free Spool. It is an economy model. Don't know the exact vintage, but suspect it is mid 1930's.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSa.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSa.jpg)
It's a tube reel so the frame is similar to the Meisselbach Tripart and Takapart, or the Horton/Meek Blue Grass 33 and 34. It has a thumb rest that looks as thought it may have been an accessory because it is easily removed and not german silver like the rest of the frame.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSb.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSb.jpg)
[url=http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSe.jpg]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSe.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSc.jpg%5B/url)
The tail plate is reverse threaded onto the tube and is marked "screw off -->". They would word it differently today. There is no spool tension knob. The clicker cog looks like a pinion gear and it's all chewed up in this example.
[url=http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg[/img]
The head plate does not unscrew but drops out when the nut that looks like a spool tension knob (but isn't) is removed.
[url]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSc.jpg]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg[/img]
The head plate does not unscrew but drops out when the nut that looks like a spool tension knob (but isn't) is removed.
[url]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg]http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSc.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSd.jpg%5B/img)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSe.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSe.jpg)
The tail plate is reverse threaded onto the tube and is marked "screw off -->". They would word it differently today. There is no spool tension knob. The clicker cog looks like a pinion gear and it's all chewed up in this example.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSd.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSd.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg)
The head plate does not unscrew but drops out when the nut that looks like a spool tension knob (but isn't) is removed.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg)
The head plate does not unscrew but drops out when the nut that looks like a spool tension knob (but isn't) is removed.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSe.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSe.jpg)
The tail plate is reverse threaded onto the tube and is marked "screw off -->". They would word it differently today. There is no spool tension knob. The clicker cog looks like a pinion gear and it's all chewed up in this example.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSd.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSd.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSf.jpg)
The head plate does not unscrew but drops out when the nut that looks like a spool tension knob (but isn't) is removed.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSg.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSh.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSh.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSi.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSi.jpg)
Note the three brass nuts at 10:00, 2:00 and 6:00 in the photo. Under each brass nut is a small spring spacer that allows the black steel three-ear bracket on the other side (under the spool) to float. I'm not sure, but think this prevents the clutch mechanism under the steel bracket from binding. Also note the small cog with three teeth at the base of the spool shaft. When the clutch is engaged the spool is turned by grabbing this cog.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSj.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSj.jpg)
To expose the clutch the black steel bracket is removed. Under the bracket is a silver colored ring, The ring has a cut-out and a small projection . Under the ring is the pinion gear. I didn't get a good photo of the pinion but it too has a cut-out on one end.
This next photo shows the ring placed on the spool shaft cog. I used a piece of brass wire to point to the spot on the ring that makes contact with the cog.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSk.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSk.jpg)
The small projection inside the ring fits into the cut-out on the end of the pinion gear. When the clutch is engaged the main gear turns the pinion, the pinion turns the ring, and the ring turns the cog on the spool shaft.
This next photo shows the pinion and ring on the spool shaft cog when the clutch is engaged. The pinion, ring and spool would be turning counter clockwise in the photo. Note that the ring is not centered around the pinion, but rather it is offset a bit. When the pinion turns counter clockwise it pushes the ring to one side. When the ring is pushed to one side it makes contact with the spool shaft cog.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSm.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSm.jpg)
When the handle is turned backward or when line is playing off the spool, the pinion pulls the ring in the other direction. When the ring is pulled to the other side, the lip on the ring cut-out can not make contact with the spool shaft cogs.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSl.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSl.jpg)
Who comes up with this stuff? If I didn't have the reel in hand I would swear it could not work reliably.... but it does. Based on the wear, it seems that the weak link may be the spot where the pinion cut-out makes contact with the projection on the ring. It's a little chewed up but still works.
Also, I would have guessed that the free spool would not be very free because the spool shaft is contacting the pinion. It's the same problem the Meisselbach Tripart free spool reel has.
There are no spool tension knobs and no casting drag mechanism. There is several thousandths of lateral play in the spool. The bearing blocks have flat bottoms and the spool shaft ends are cut flat.
But, surprisingly, it has tons of free spool for a reel of this vintage. It is much to hot for me to be able to cast without filling it up with magnets first. I'll try it, but doubt it will make me give up the Koph clutch reels.
-steve
Thanks Steve, you keep digging up interesting old reels with examples of alternative engineering solutions that baffle me! ;D
Great photos and write up.
Mike
I wanted to fish with this reel but the line capacity is more than needed so a wood arbor (spool filler) was made. I've tried and failed to make these before.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20986.30 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20986.30)
The book Sid found (Lucas on Bass Fishing) helped. Lucas says you have to make three of these before it comes out right. He also says to use the reel itself as a lathe to do the final shaping.
I didn't have any dense cork or balsa wood and used a piece of dry hau bush. Hau is not as light as balsa, but close.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSn.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSn.jpg)
Hau has a soft pith and this is where the axis must be. Should have found a rounder piece of branch.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSo.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSo.jpg)
The wood was mounted on a bolt. It was spun in a drill while holding the wood against a running belt sander until it was round.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSp.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSp.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSq.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSq.jpg)
The wood was split in half with a knife. A thin kerf saw might be better.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSr.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSr.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSs.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSs.jpg)
The ends were shaped to match the spool flanges using a small dremel-like sanding drum. One half was held on the spool while a small hole was drilled using the hole in the metal spool as a guide. The other half was held in place and drilled from the other direction. A piece of brass wire was pressed into the hole to pin the arbor to the spool.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSt.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSt.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSu.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSu.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSv.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSv.jpg)
Everything was glued and bound with line until dry.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSw.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSw.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSx.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSx.jpg)
The spool was put back into the reel, the reel put on a rod and the rod stabilized in a vice. As the handle was turned, some 400 grit dry paper was used to do the final shaping and smoothing. The handle can be ranked at close to 250 rpm so with quadruple multiplying gears that's close to 1000 rpm at the spool
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSy.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSy.jpg)
This left room for 120 yards of 30# spectra. The arbor worked out good enough and the reel casts well. Actually, it casts surprisingly well considering all the stuff inside. The distance is every bit as good as the Shakespeare Tournament Free Spool with Koph cutch. I need to rethink the idea that the pinion riding on the spool shaft slows it down. It's also possible that the alignment and tolerances on this reel is better. The frame is very heavy and stout compared to the Shakespeare.
The Horton Simplex has a smaller diameter than the Shakespeare Tournament but the spool is wider and the tail plate is wider. So, it does not palm quite as well and it is more difficult to lay the line.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSza.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSza.jpg)
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSzb.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSzb.jpg)
The Horton clutch takes some getting used to. When a running fish takes the handle away from you it slips out of gear instead of doing the knuckle buster thing. When the fish slows and you want to start cranking again you have to be careful the spool has stopped before it goes back into gear.
The quick take-apart is nice, but the head plate has to be completely disassembled to access the gears. This could cause some maintenance headaches. In the photo below, you can see a small gap between the tube frame and the screw-off tail plate. Somehow I accidentally unscrewed the tail plate a half turn while messing with the fish. The reel is nice, but I still reach for the Shakespeare first.
http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSzc.jpg (http://www.raingarden.us/snap/HSzc.jpg)
-steve
Steve that is great work, your mind & brain, just never stops, thanks for showing, what did you use to stick the wood together, as I posted not long back, I have a product, that is sold in Queensland, Australia, called Techni glue, R60, although they may have an update on it now, it is good for that type of thing, as it does not run, cheers Don.
There's no glue involved Don. It's just a piece of Calcutta cane with a Chinese cane tip section lashed on the end with twine. It worked in the nineteenth century and still works in the twenty-first century.
Regards,
-steve
I thought Donny was asking about the wood arbor you made....??
Glad to see the Lucas book was put to good use. I'm about half-way through, on a temporary hold. That was an excellent first attempt on that spool arbor.
Sid
Oh sorry, I get it now. The glue was just Titebond III. One part, no vapors, water clean-up, essentially waterproof when dry.
That was the third or fourth attempt at an arbor Sid. I think I have it now though. Also, Lucas (1949) says the arbor does not need to be glued. Just make it a tight fit and let the line compression hold it in place. But, Lucas would have been using braided nylon which has a lot of stretch and compression. I'm using spectra with little stretch and compression. The brass pin was just extra assurance against slippage.
I had to remove a lop-sided failed attempt that had been glued and pinned the same way. It came out in pieces but was not difficult and did not damage the spool.
-steve
Great write-up, and thread. Thanks for this. I too fell for the Meisselbach's and was disappointed in their performance. Pretty rough they are mechanically, although very beautiful reels. I'm keeping mine (480 and 581) and may find a fishing use for them yet, if anything just bc they are pretty little reels and mechanical marvels in their own right.
The Meisselbach clutch appears to be seen again in the (very popular) JA Coxe 25's (See photo, bottom right). It's a bit loosey-goosey when fished with, easy to backlash when fighting a fish bc it's so easy for the clutch to disengage. Advice is... Keep your thumb where it belongs!
Not sure if others cannot see the above images in this thread. I found by copy/pasting into a doc they show.
Sorry about the images. My stuff is all screwed up.
In my opinion, the Horton Simplex is a better reel. I still us it now and again.
Steve, beside the fact that was a great write up, I fell for the photo of the rod and reel! That is just a beautiful combo!
Quote from: Reeltyme on July 18, 2021, 12:26:13 AM
Steve, beside the fact that was a great write up, I fell for the photo of the rod and reel! That is just a beautiful combo!
Thanks Randy, but I'm not sure the combo is what you would expect to see back in the day. That is a Calcutta cane with a Chinese cane tip section lashed on. Ten feet. The 16" handle is cotton cord saturated with shellac. Handmade German silver guides with linen wrapping. Made to fit my fishing style. It's all period-correct materials, but the reel was made for upscale baitcasting rods like a five foot split bamboo or steel rod, maybe with some agatine guides and a short handle for one-handed casting to black bass.