Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Hope you got it all out, but if you didn't many times your body will reject foreign matter and push it out itself, it just takes some time.

Years ago I got a piece of steel embedded deep into my finger. My Doc tried to get it out but gave up because he was afraid he would cut a ligament or tendon. He said it would probably eventually be rejected and work it's way out. Low and behold six months later I was out in the middle of nowhere fishing in South Dakota on Lake Oahe 50 miles from the nearest town and that callused over lump on my finger was kind of tender. Took a closer look at it and could see a dark spot under the skin. Dug around on it with a knife and sure enough, that 3/8" long piece of metal had worked its way to the surface. Pulled it out, put some ointment and bandaid on it and it healed up just fine. 🙂

Quote from: Keta on Today at 03:05:19 PMIs it an early (pre serial # J100001) or late model, there were some changes in the clicker.   Try the upgrade and see if it cures the problem.
https://scottsbt.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/203741379-16VS-and-16VSX-Technical-Updates

L120047

I use braid on size 10, 20, 25 spinning reels and have landed many 12 to 30 lb chinook in streams running 3 to 5 knots.

I watched a few videos which suggested the following:

tie knot and leave a tag on the arbor > wind the first many wrap REAL TIGHT over said tag > till said tag is covered, keep winding braid at reasonable tension

I use a bees kneez spool holder screwed to a plank of wood with a 10lb barbell weight I bought back when I was in college in Lincoln, NE (some how I till have it).

I am pretty sure I am up in the mind numbing 6 lbs of drag 

Is it an early (pre serial # J100001) or late model, there were some changes in the clicker.   Try the upgrade and see if it cures the problem.
https://scottsbt.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/203741379-16VS-and-16VSX-Technical-Updates

Every time I get a wood splinter it feels bigger that it is can you imagine getting shot with an arrow 1" is pretty big.Under a fingernail is probably my all time favorite place to get a splinter 

Found it. It's at the carbon/glass interface. It seems like a surface defect. I bent the rod way deeper than a fish likely would while also creating a non-favorable fulcrum. Didn't snap. I'll just put a guide over that spot.

I also held the splinter up to it to make sure there's not more in my finger. That was not a "surface" splinter it went deep. I couldn't see any of the shaft of it under my skin.

I lucked out that the shard was clean/soaked in alcohol at the time it entered or I bet I'd be looking at something worse. And thankfully I was thinking clearly enough to clean my reel work tweezers in that same alcohol before I went digging.

I think what your hearing is the spring-loaded anti-reverse dogs.  The dog noise should be quieter than the actual clicker though.  Spring anti-reverse are noisier but more reliable than the ambassadeur "wing" type.

Quote from: oldmanjoe on Today at 04:33:30 AMYes I am trying to ferret out why and when it happens .  More so because main stream spooling usual dead ends the line to the arbor pin or to the hole in the arbor shaft . 
        So how does the line slip on the spool?    I do understand that starting spooling without enough tension will result in dig ins and line waffling .      My next question is when the first layer goes down on the arbor ,are the wraps close together all the way across the spool or they corkscrewed with the second layer crisscrossed filling in the first layer , like a level wind will do .

 This happens on non levelwind reels, so it is packed however you want.  Most folk pack the first layers with wraps close together, but not very carefully.

I would suggest to start with what we know: 

1.  It is not too difficult to make an arbor knot that holds very tight (your tests). But the arbor knot only holds when the standing end is under tension.  Ergo, if the arbor knot is slipping, it must no longer be under tension.

2. This problem does not occur with nylon, so what is different about nylon?  First off, nylon stretches much more than braid.  That extra stretch m might be providing a reservoir of tension.  Also nylon has a match higher coefficient of friction, so it will stick to spool better.  Nylon also tends to dig in less than braid. But there are other differences as well.

3.  The slipping problem tends to happen more frequently when the spool is not packed tightly. Loose pack means less elastic tension, and more braid digging in.

———-

Unfortunately, this problem is happening deep in the spool, so while it is easy to observe that it is happening, it is hard to observe how it is happening.

For example, here is a non-obvious hypothesis:  When a solid piece of plastic with a hole in the center expands when heated,  the diameter of the hole also expands proportionally. If the line loaded on the spool behaves like it solid piece of plastic, then the line filled indoors and then taken outdoors may no longer be tight to the arbor.  BTW, the coefficient of thermal expansion for the plastic used to make braid is about twice that of the plastic used to make nylon fishing line.

But this is just one of many hypotheses.  It could be something more obvious, like not getting the bottom layers tight.  Or there could be multiple ways to cause it.  Who knows?

Not sure how to get to the bottom of this  without doing a lot of spool fills.


-J

  For tying spinner spool.  Just a loop knot ,than fold it to make a bigger loop.
  Keep the tag / "tail" as the trailer .  2 wraps will work.