Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Penn Senator Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: JasonGotaProblem on April 12, 2023, 06:21:59 PM

Title: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: JasonGotaProblem on April 12, 2023, 06:21:59 PM
Which is stronger:
Metal posts + metal foot
Graphite bars + metal foot
1 piece graphite frame and it's attached foot

I'm sure an aftermarket metal frame is the obvious choice for those with $$$, but what's the best among the above?

(In your opinion)

And if you're feeling generous with your time... Why?
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: Cuttyhunker on April 12, 2023, 07:11:04 PM
I would expect the last, less moving parts
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: steelfish on April 12, 2023, 07:44:30 PM
the problem of the graphite frames is that with a bit over torque on the plate screws and the hole on the frame is done, I have seen and worked with many graphite frames on which you have to use a bigger screw or even a self tapping screw if you want to secure the frame on that part, that said, I prefer good old steel posts if the cost of a tiburon frame is prohibitive.


 
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: day0ne on April 12, 2023, 09:36:30 PM
I personally like the aluminum spacer bars from the 113HL Special Senator II. You can often find them used on ebay.

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/37C-113HL.aspx

https://www.mysticparts.com/37N-113HL-Front-Spacer-Bar-quotPenn-113HLquot-P10246.aspx
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: JasonGotaProblem on April 12, 2023, 09:47:09 PM
I thought those were graphite?
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: day0ne on April 12, 2023, 10:50:27 PM
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on April 12, 2023, 09:47:09 PMI thought those were graphite?

Nope, aluminum. Some of the Newell bars are graphite but the Penn bars are aluminum.
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: MarkT on April 12, 2023, 11:25:26 PM
I would say the graphite frame. The benefit of a frame is that it holds the side plates in better alignment with more rigidity. Any combo of posts/bars/seat is going to be less ridgid.
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: Brewcrafter on April 13, 2023, 04:56:58 AM
Jason - I would agree with Mark - his logic is sound and he has enough triple digit fish to know what will stress parts.  But while your question is simple, I am going to read into it...basic reel architecture for any of these models usually only becomes an issue when you begin to upgrade other areas and then create a new "weakest link".  Having landed (and getting my butt handed to me btw) a 7' mako on a bone stock, 1970's post model 113H - the most rudimentary reel in your lineup is pretty stout - unless you are going to start throwing in drag stacks and gears, which changes everything with respect to your frame question.  So to answer the original question of "What is stronger" - Assuming all parts and fasteners are 100% (full engagement none stripped) then most likely the full graphite frame.  But to overstress that old external drag post model 113h - well, I don't see it happening but if anyone is concerned, I have a certain weakness for the old external drag 113/113H/114/114H....-john
Title: Re: 113H parts heirarchy
Post by: Keta on April 13, 2023, 04:01:52 PM
Quote from: Brewcrafter on April 13, 2023, 04:56:58 AM"I have a certain weakness for the old external drag"


Me too.

Solid frames resist twisting under heavy loads so they are stronger.  However, I have released several pacific halibut in the 6' plus range using stock 349H reels. 

In your area I would think a stock 113H with posts would work for anything but larger grooper or possably real large reef donkeys.

However the  113H reels I fish all have either Penn solid frames or after market narrow frames and I have solid frames on the 349/359H reels I use.  Most likely overkill.