Reel Repair by Alan Tani

I sometimes borrow my wife's came saw for small items, more control. 

A came saw is used by stained glass shops to cut "Came" the aluminum framing around the stained glass.   

My wife's came saw is a miniature chop saw is similar to this one: https://www.ameriglasco.com/Stained-Glass-Grinders-Diamond-Saws/Stained-Glass-Came-Saw.shtml

However, when I went looking for a picture, I saw this one:  https://www.swartglass.com/Jarmac-Came-Saw_p_16446.html

It looks like a miniature table saw and might fit your purpose.

Quote from: Reeltyme on May 28, 2024, 01:55:25 PMChecked this morning, no gots on the 650 bail. I have an 850 bail. Sorry.

No worries. Thx for the offer.  I will figure it out.  Just a matter of pride trying to get the old reel working. Might through some line on it and use it for nostalgia

I'm with you Cornelius.  The trick is getting a fixture to hold the part safely, and the larger/faster/more powerful the tool, the stronger the the fixture has to be.

A couple ideas:

For small stuff in plastic like that, I am partial to using a router with the material screwed onto a pattern.  I like using a flush trim bit  (guide on the bottom) with the pattern underneath the part.  I usually 3D print the patterns and any fixtures needed to hold the part, but reckon that you can do something similar  by hand.

I assume you are making the jig in two halves so that you can through wire them.  I can picture one or two fixtures, depending on the shape.  Secure the material to the pattern or fixture past the ends of
the part, and cut the ends off after shaping.  Or something like that.

A router might ight be overkill though, as these are all straight cuts.

If you are not making that many, cutting plastic with a handsaw is not much work,  and if the fixture holding the part fails, it is not so terrifying.  Something that clamps onto a hand miter saw or even a wholem iterbox contraption made from some scrap wood. 

Power miter saws kinda scare me on small parts.  They are really made for cutting parts off of longer stock, and the wood cutting miter saws run at very high RPMs. In my eyes, it would be tougher to make a safe fixture setup with a power miter saw than a table saw.  But both would require a very secure fixture.

Sometimes the best tool for the job is not a power tool.  But the reccomendation for a scroll saw with the right blade doesn't sound too bad either.

-J

A Festool Kapex is the most expensive miter saw out there. A Dewalt, Makita or Milwaukee would be much cheaper. A belt sander would clean up that jig better than a saw!

What model International is it? My guess would be that the two pins that sit in the gear stud aren't engaging properly to get it to lock out in different gears. Mystic Reel Parts should set you straight.

I've used a scroll saw with a fine blade to cut acrylic.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-1-2-Amp-Corded-16-in-Scroll-Saw-SC165VS/205419917?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25P-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PortablePower_2023&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25P-025_009_PORT_POWER-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-PortablePower_2023-71700000106432953-58700008273440508-92700079460122386&gclid=0b996adf6b6a1855b2040c890a0df3a1&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=0b996adf6b6a1855b2040c890a0df3a1

Ok, you got me on that one...

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ROCKWELL-Blade-Runner-X2-4-in-Carbon-Blade-5-5-Amp-Table-Saw/50226969
I think a jig saw table will do the job ,I'd do more sanding than cutting to get that shape

I have a couple Eddie bombs ready and a couple knife jigs ready. Will probably pick up a couple more torpedo sinkers.  Put new braid on the Fathom 40NLD2 and a 50lb flouro topshot.  I'm set on hooks.